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helmut_wieczorek

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Posts posted by helmut_wieczorek

  1. I have never used neither Mamiya C220 nor SB-25, but I have used Nikon's SB-24 flash with various cameras. If SB-25 is as reliable as SB-24 in A mode, then you should be OK. I believe that C220 has leaf shutter. If so, then you should be able to sync at all shutter speeds. First of all, I think that you might need L-shaped flash bracket and a cable to connect flash to the camera.

    As for the settings on SB-25: set it to A, set ISO to match the ISO of the film in the camera, set the F value on the flash to match the aperture set on the camera, set the focal length to the focal length of the lens mounted on the camera. If anything other than "normal" exposure is what you desire, then set any number of the above variables to value(s) other than actual.

  2. Ah, the beauty of Kiev. Due to it's erratic and unreliable performance I gave up on using this prism for metering long, long time ago. Sure, you can find detailed meter adjustment instructions on the web, but I've opted for hand-held one. I do not have my camera in front of me, but it looks like there are two other screws holding the dial, right? In that case I would just ignore this issue.
  3. First of all, make sure that SB-24 will work in TTL mode with your camera.

    I've been using this fine flash for over 15 years now and I am quite pleased by the results.

    I am using it not only with Nikon cameras but with other makes as well. Set to A mode SB24 performs just fine with them.

    As for its compatibility with D200 - do not dispair: set the flash to A mode and fire away. Of course make sure first that ISO, aperture value, angle of coverage agree between the camera and the flash, unless you're looking for special lighting effect.

  4. Although I neither have nor have used the Mamiya lens, I'll answer based on my experience with 30mm Arsat lens.

    Distortion: enormous - as expected for a fish-eye lens. I believe it can be fixed with software these days.

    Fit for landscape work: this is a matter of personal preference. If Ansel Adams-like perspectives are expected, this lens would not do. Also, because of the inability to mount -say- graduated filters over the front element, high-contrast scenes might be difficult to handle.

    Filter size: As mentioned, there is no provision for the filter over the front element. In the case of Arsat, filter (one of the three supplied with the lens) is being attached at the rear element. Filter cannot be mounted over the front element in the case of Mamiya either. I believe this lens has filters within the barrel.

    All in all, I like my Arsat. Once mounted on the camera, it is difficult to put it down.

  5. I humbly suggest, that you give up the spotmatic idea in favor of an inexpensive rangefinder with leaf shutter and fast glass. Your advantage here: lack of mirror slap, ability to use longer shutter speeds. Your disadvantage: most of rangefinders I have in mind here (hi-matics, canonets) limit you to just one focal length since glass is not interchangable.
  6. I've bought batteries for mine at Radio Shack. If you choose to put them in, you might want to know that meter is being turned on by moving ISO indicator to any of the ISO values. By the way, I am cautiously guessing that light seals in the camera might be shot by now. You can get replacement seals (there's enough material for several cameras in the kit) from interslice on ebay an do it yourself.
  7. Epson 4870 is a decent piece of equipment for your needs. I've just checked Epson's refurb page and - unfortunately - 4870 is not offered anymore. 4490 is there, though. At $123 I would've bought it yesterday. It does not take 4"x5", but in your case it doesn't matter. While working with 4870 I am using Epson's software and I find it to be good enough for my needs. Somehow, I did not like bundled version of Silverfast. I understand that it was a "lite" version. Maybe I would appreciate full version better. And lastly - looks like EVERYTHING scanned on 4870 needs to be sharpened to your liking. I am applying USM in PS rather than in Epsonscan. But wait....you plan on scanning Holga stuff. In this case, skip sharpening as it may render your photographs too-good-looking, so to speak.
  8. Most decent folders made in the 50's and later should be X sync-capable. Mine is Bessa I with Prontor-S shutter with X-sync and Vaskar 4.5 lens. There are two marks on the camera's distance scale to help you get things in focus: one for close subjects, the other for more distant ones. Sounds like something that might be of a help to you. One issue with Bessa is that in poorly lit places it might not be easy to properly advance the film since the frame number on the film would be difficult to see in the red window. This camera has double exposure prevention, though. IMHO a 35mm rangefinder with 1.8 or 1.7 glass and automatic film advance would do a better job in the environment you're describing. With high-ISO film you might get good results shooting without flash. Ocassionally, I have been using Minolta Himatic 9 in low-light situations and results were quite good. I find Himatic 9 to be one great camera. Although it can operate in auto mode with batteries, I greatly appreciate the fact that it can work without them, too.

    Let me add, that an older 35mm rangefinder should be less expensive than MF folder with features you desire.

    By the way, shooting with flash at F22 dramatically limits effective range of your flash. F11 or F16 should do here.

  9. Film backs (by Rada, Suydam, Corfield) appear on ebay from time to time, there's out there right now, item number is 7607287928. Backs by Rada seem to be most popular. Be aware of the edge/rail style as they differ from camera to camera. Quick glance at the picture of the back for sale tells me, that I wouldn't be able to use it on my Voigtlander Avus. Rada backs often look quite beaten, but the insides are usually in good shape, so don't be put off by the first impression. You might want to check german ebay, but the sellers there do not like Paypal and shipping cost to US might be substantial.

    Of course you can take 6x9 pictures using these backs - I am doing it myself. I have also 6x6 and 6x4.5 masks, but I don't use them at all at the moment.

    Having a small collection of 9x12 film holders, I will definitely try sheet film. If it scans as good as 6x6 or 6x9 on my Epson 4870 ($200 refurbished at Epson.com), I'll be a happy camper.

  10. Yes, leaf shutter is closed when cocked, opens on release and then shuts again.

    Shutter on Mamiya lens would have to be released manually and of course flash would have to be plugged in it, too. By the way, have you heard or have you seen Mamiya to Canon adapter? I haven't.

  11. First of all - do you have an adapter allowing you to attach Mamiya lens to Canon?

    One solution that comes to mind is as follows:

    - set the shutter on Canon to B (or to any of the longer shutter speeds like 10s, 15s)

    - release it making sure first that Mamiya shutter is cocked

    - release Mamiya's shutter while Canon's is still open

    - end exposure on Canon

  12. Mike,

    I've sent an e-mail asking for a quote on shipping to the US. I found same album on one of polish auction sites, opening bid is about $3.60 and there are no bidders. I've asked for a shipping quote there, too. Looks like though, this is not a "straight" photography album - there's some poetry on the subject, as well.

  13. First edition of the mentioned album is being offered here: http://sklep.ladyga.pl/product_info.php?cPath=30_177_157&products_id=4170&osCsid=90be020706245e45455c5bf7b6d8b7fb The price is 20 PLN, that's just under 6 USD.

    Title in polish is "Epizody z powstania warszawskiego".

    Try this link to the gallery of the uprising museum: http://www.1944.pl/index.php?a=site_gallery&STEP=02&g_id=107.

    Most photos (including some by mr. Tomaszewski), from both polish and german sides are here: http://www.warsawuprising.com/photos.htm

    regards.

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