graham_mitchell

<p>Hello, the link posted earlier in this thread to my battery article is now old. You can find the article here: http://graham-mitchell.com/blog/rollei-6000-battery-upgrade/</p>

<p>Carl, why not the 6008? Shutter lag is not an issue on that body. I can't comment about the 6006. I don't remember any significant winder noise on my 6008 but it's been a year now since I changed to the Hy6.</p>

<p>That was my take too.</p>

<p>"Yeah. It's not like they've been used on academy award winning feature films or anything"<br>

Yeah, it's not like they added a truckload of extras to the DSLR to make it usable or anything. And yes, the DSLRs can shine in certain circumstances but that doesn't make them good all-rounders, which was my point. There's a reason that the 5DII wasn't used to shoot all of Black Swan, for example!</p>

<p>I would suggest the Hy6 with a Leaf or Sinar back. The used Sinar backs are very good value at the moment, making this one of the more affordable systems if you are prepared to get a new camera with a used back.<br>

No MF options offer video though, afai, and so they shouldn't. Still cameras make pretty poor video cameras.</p>

<p>You can buy directly from the factory, DHW Fototechnik. Their price is nearly half of BH! http://www.dhw-fototechnik.de/<br>

Price: €3453</p>

<p>For the medium format SLR cameras, there are 28mm lenses from Mamiya and Hasselblad. Put that on a 645 sensor or 645 film (the Mamiya 28mm, not the Hasselblad which is image-circle-limited as far as I know) and you have the equivalent of 19mm. Not too shabby. Then there are the view camera options in medium format which have some even wider options. The 23mm Rodenstock comes to mind. Not sure about the image circle on that one but if it covers 645 then it's equivalent to 15mm.</p>

<p>Rollei is now being made and serviced by DHW. No need to spread rumours there, or about German electronics. My Sinar back is made in Germany by Jenoptik and it was 100% reliable and still performs well after 4 years or so. Leica's pricing is irrelevant to this thread, and Kodak's sensor division is now owned by a stable company, not one on the brink of bankruptcy. That's a good thing!</p>

<p>The Rollei can be repaired if necessary but with many used and cheap bodies on the market, it might be easier just to replace a dead body. Btw, I've had a Hasselblad V and a Rollei 6008. I liked both but if I had to choose, the Rollei would definitely win.<br>

Try to get a 6008i, if you don't plan on using AF lenses, or 6008AF if you do.</p>

<p>Bob, I would add that you need much more detail than you had in your deleted ad. For example, you don't indicate with the 150mm lens is a PQ or PQS. The condition of each item is not specified, etc.</p>

<p>QG, "Holland" is interchangeable with "Netherlands" in English. Even the Dutch tourist board is hosted at holland.com. Oxford dictionary agrees with me ;)</p>

<p>I don't understand Marc's advice at all. Just ship once you've received the money via Paypal. You get an instant notification from them.<br>

As for dodgy areas in Europe, nowhere in the EU is a known trouble spot but a few countries outside the EU in Eastern Europe could be a bit riskier. Having said that, there are some lovely Russians and other Eastern Europeans on the forums who are serious professional photographers and they want to find good used gear just as much as the rest of us. Perhaps you can exclude countries such as Russia and Ukraine but post in your listing that you can make an exception for professional photographers with websites and contact details which you can verify. I believe you can add them as exceptions once you've checked them out.<br>

But Rollei is most popular in Germany, Austria, Switzerland, Holland, UK and France. There's a 90% chance your buyer will be from one of these countries.</p>

<p>Thanks, Tak. I'll try the cleaning but I have a feeling that if there was a dirty contact, the rings wouldn't work individually either.</p>

<p>Thanks, Eric.</p>

<p>Here's a photo of the Skyport on the Hy6:<br>

<img src="http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/skyport_on_hy6.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Pocketwizards work well but I wouldn't recommend that brick hanging off the side of a 6008. (I had a 6008 and just upgraded to Hy6). I use an Elinchrom Skyport instead, which is 100% reliable over the years I've had it, and is tiny compared to the Pocketwizard (and cheaper!)<br>

I really recommend this for all cameras, but especially the 6008/Hy6 because of the side mounted flash.</p>

<p>Micahel, thanks for the link but that guide is a little over simplified. It doesn't mention the difference in compatibility between different versions of lenses and accessories. That's the kind of detail I'm looking for here.</p>

<p>Well I checked and the 34mm extension is the only one without "System Rolleiflex 6000" written on it, so that explains that.<br>

However I'm still puzzled that the 9+17mm combination doesn't work properly when they both work individually.</p>

<p>I tried my Longar and extension rings on the Hy6 today with my new AFD 80 lens, because I was curious whether the aperture and AF would be supported. There was a bit of a mixed result, as you can see:<br>

Longar: AF - lens moves but does not focus properly. Aperture - yes.<br />9mm: AF - yes. Aperture - yes<br />17mm: AF - yes. Aperture - yes<br />34mm: AF - no. Aperture - no<br />9mm + 17mm stacked: AF no. Aperture yes<br>

Most strange to me is that the 9mm and 17mm work individually with AF but not when stacked together. I have heard in the past about there being newer and older versions of these items which might explain this. Is that true? Can they be updated/modified?</p>

<p>Btw, I'm very happy with my new Hy6 camera (with Leaf back). Definitely worth a look.</p>

<p>Phase can only achieve that flash sync speed under certain conditions, as far as I know:<br>

- latest camera body<br />- must use LS lenses.<br /> - must be a Phase back with "extended flash sync"<br /> - must be an air remote and receiver (fast mode) or hard wired as most wireless transmitters cannot sync past 1/400th or so<br /> - must ensure the body is set to use the LS shutter not the FP shutter<br />- the flash unit must be fast enough</p>

 

<p>Hi Philipp, it was installed in the factory but I checked anyway. If I flip it over, the focus is now much worse, and in front of the actual focus rather than behind. This just confirms my suspicion that the screen needs to be raised by around 0.1-0.2mm.</p>

<p>It might not be worth doing this. See http://www.graham-mitchell.com/blog/?p=152</p>

<p>Jan, unfortunately I don't see any adjustment screws on the Hy6 focus screen baseplate.</p>

<p>It's not shimming at all (shimming is a process of physical alignment over small increments using thin spacers). The focus adjustment several of you are referring to is an auto-focus calibration. I'm not using AF so it's irrelevant. I rely 100% on the focus screen so I need that to be corrected.</p>