scotth

June 29, 2005

What kind of pictures are you unable to take with your camera? The S7000 has the ability to focus manually, and you can shoot in aperture priority, shutter priority, or full manual. I would say that you should be able to take interesting pictures with this thing.

The camera has a 35mm equivalent 35-210mm lens. Unless you want to take wide angle shots, or super-telephoto pictures, you're covered. Remember that even with an interchangeable lens camera you can only have one lens on when the picture is taken. Some of my favorite pictures were taken with my "lowly" 50mm normal lens.

I'm going to go on a bit of a rant now: Digital is great, it lets you explore your creative side because 1) you get instant feedback on the LCD screen, and 2) there's no cost to experimenting vs. film and processing. That said, I think there are so many adjustments on these cameras today people forget to learn the basics. When I first got serious about taking pictures, I purchased an Olympus Stylus Epic 35mm lens camera based on photo.net's recommendations. With very few controls beyond the shutter release, it forces you to move into position to take better photographs. End rant.

I would suggest reading through

<a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/making-photographs/" >the photo.net making photographs tutorial</a> before buying an expensive new camera.

June 24, 2005

I use the "Kenko Auto Extension Tube Set" for Nikon with my other lenses. If you want "really" close up pictures, 1:1 isn't enough. The auto focus isn't helpful, but the AF tubes allow the CPU info to pass, so the meter will still work on your D70.

June 17, 2005

Has anyone actually used the DCS? I haven't so I won't comment on it vs. the D2X (which I haven't used either). But, according to <a href="http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/cameras/proSLRc/proSLRcIndex.jhtml">Kodak</a> the DCS pro/n is "Now shipping!". It's available new at B&H for $3,500. Used DCS PRO 14N is offerd at KEH for $2,200.

<a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/kodakslrc/">dpreview.com</a> did an in-depth review of the closely related Canon version of the DCS. I wouldn't call it a rave, but it wasn't too bad.

May 16, 2005

Scott,

>For the second NEF you sent me, exiftool shows a Lens ID of "Nikkor AF-S 18-70/3.5-4.5 G IF-ED DX". It reports a Focus Distance of 0.40m.

Looking at the photo, and seeing that it was >shot with an 18 mm focal length, I'd say the Focus Distance value is believable.

Yes that is correct. I was shooting my 6 week old girl while she was sleeping in her crib with the kit lens. I like shooting her with my 50mm f1.8, but as you noted before it's non-D (interestingly in the EXIF data on the first file it was reported that the lens has a max aperture of f1.7--which is news to me). I wasn't about to blast the flash in her face, and I wanted all the light I could get so that it wouldn't be a total blurry mess. I zoomed the lens out and leaned in. A foot and a half is about right.

>By the way, the value of the Software tag in the first NEF that Scott sent was "Ver.2.00" as I expected (it's the firmware version), but for the second NEF it was "PictureProject Transfer 1.1 W"

That's weird. I used PictureProject to download both pictures. I moved the pictures (but didn't open them) to a new folder. I then emailed them.

May 16, 2005

Bill, a second NEF is on its way. I used a D-type lens, so you can see that info. And you can see if the serial number is in fact that of the camera.

May 16, 2005

The menus are now black, white and gray, with your selection highlighted in yellow. I guess they are clearer, but I never found them unclear before. So far my favorite improvement is that the camera accurately tells me how many exposures I have remaining, instead of me having to double the number. Instead of telling me there are 94 NEF exposures with an empty 1GB card, it reads 178.

And yes, my settings were preserved.

May 16, 2005

I made a NEF file in my D70 camera (with auto WB set), and downloaded it to my PC with PictureProject. I right clicked the image and opened it in Photoshop 6.0. The RAW adjustments box came up, and allowed me to change the white balance.

I got the following information from "EXIF Reader":

DSC_0368.NEF

Filename : DSC_0368.NEF

Main Information

NewSubFileType : 1

ImageWidth : 160

ImageHeight : 120

BitsPerSample : 8,8,8

Compression : Uncompressed

PhotometicInterpretation : RGB

Make : NIKON CORPORATION

Model : NIKON D70

StripOffset : 29078

Orientation : left-hand side

SamplesPerPixel : 3

RowsPerStrip : 120

StripByteCounts : 57600

XResolution : 300/1

YResolution : 300/1

PlanarConfiguration : chunky format

ResolutionUnit : Inch

Software : Ver.2.00

DateTime : 2005:05:17 10:34:02

SubIFDs : 86678,898612

ReferenceBlackWhite : 0/1,255/1,0/1,255/1,0/1,255/1

ExifInfoOffset : 468

DateTimeOriginal : 2005:05:17 10:34:02

TIFF/EP StandardID : 1.0.0.0

SubIFD(0)

NewSubFileType : 1

Compression : OLDJPEG

XResolution : 300/1

YResolution : 300/1

ResolutionUnit : Inch

JPEGInterchangeFormat : 131072

JPEGInterchangeFormatLength : 767537

YCbCrPositioning : co-sited

SubIFD(1)

NewSubFileType : 0

ImageWidth : 3040

ImageHeight : 2014

BitsPerSample : 12

Compression : Unknown (34713)

PhotometicInterpretation : CFA

StripOffset : 898852

Orientation : left-hand side

SamplesPerPixel : 1

RowsPerStrip : 2014

StripByteCounts : 4297405

XResolution : 300/1

YResolution : 300/1

PlanarConfiguration : chunky format

ResolutionUnit : Inch

CFARepeatPatternDim : 2,2

CFAPattern : 02010100

SensingMethod : OneChipColorArea sensor

Sub Information

ExposureTime : 1/10Sec

FNumber : F1.8

ExposureProgram : Aperture Priority

DateTimeOriginal : 2005:05:17 10:34:02

DateTimeDigitized : 2005:05:17 10:34:02

ExposureBiasValue : EV0.0

MaxApertureValue : F1.7

MeteringMode : Division

LightSource : Unidentified

Flash : Not fired

FocalLength : 50.00(mm)

MakerNote : Nikon COOLPIX Format : 28090Bytes (Offset:996)

UserComment :

SubSecTime : 10

SubSecTimeOriginal : 10

SubSecTimeDigitized : 10

SensingMethod : OneChipColorArea sensor

FileSource : DSC

SceneType : A directly photographed image

CFAPattern : 8 Bytes

CustomRendered : Normal process

ExposureMode : Auto

WhiteBalance : Auto

DigitalZoomRatio : 1/1

FocalLength(35mm) : 75(mm)

SceneCaptureType : Standard

GainControl : None

Contrast : Normal

Saturation : Normal

Sharpness : Normal

SubjectDistanceRange : Unknown

I hope that helps.

May 15, 2005

There is an excelent <a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/making-photographs/"> tutorial on making photographs here at photo.net</a> The section on <a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/making-photographs/light">light</a>

deals with your specific question.

With a 1/2 second exposure, you'll need a tripod (which you should have if you are serious enough about photographs to be here a photo.net).

With a 1/60 second exposure in the same ambient light, your photograph will look like <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/pcd1765/amy-philip-paula-9">this one from the aforementioned tutorial</a>

YOU ultimately choose the correct exposure. If you want a totally un-exposed background, the auto mode's settings are correct. If you are photographing a stationary item, your camera is mounted on a tripod, and you're looking for a shallow depth of field, 1/2 f3.5 would be correct. If you're photographing a person, you'll likely want something in between.

May 11, 2005

My pop up flash stopped working while the camera was under warranty. Although it was free to me, the receipt showed that the replacement flash was US$200. The hot shoe is probably extra.

May 9, 2005

You have received some conflicting answers about the compatibility of g-type lenses with your N90s.

I just put my AF-S 18-70 1:3.5-4.5G (D70 kit lens) on my N90s. I can confirm that the silent wave focusing works perfectly on the N90s. You CANNOT use Manual exposure or aperture priority, as there is no way to change the lens from the smallest aperture (in this case f32). The vibration reduction (VR) feature is the new technology that does not work on the N90s.

If I were taking my N90s on a trip like yours, I'd bring the following two prime lenses:

Normal AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.8D Autofocus Lens

Wide Angle AF Nikkor 24mm f/2.8D Autofocus Lens

April 22, 2005

I'm not really sure what the difference between this thread and part 1, but here goes:

<a href "http://www.photo.net/equipment/35mm/building-an-slr-system"> Read this </a> and then buy the <a href "http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=247091&is=USA"> 50mm 1.8D, </a> it's only $90. It was one of my favorite lenses for my N90s (as a normal lens). And now it's one of my lenses (as a portrait lens) for my D70. Considering you were willing to spend over $2000 for the body and one lens (but it was too big), if you eventually get a wide zoom lens and never use the 50mm again, it is irrelevant in terms of money.

If you're looking for a recommendation to put a cheap consumer zoom on an expensive pro body, I don't think you're going to get it. I'd rather have a 28-70mm AFS ED on an N55 than a 24-85mm 3.5-4.5G ED on an F100.

February 20, 2005

Download the manual in English. Nikon USA doesn't provide it, but it's available elsewhere. In this

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00A8JL">thread</a>

I found this

<a href="http://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/nikoneurope_en.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_sid=R5dmaNqh&p_lva=&p_faqid=9382&p_created=1079516931&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9ncmlkc29ydD0mcF9yb3dfY250PTUmcF9zZWFyY2hfdGV4dD0mcF9zZWFyY2hfdHlwZT0zJnBfcHJvZF9sdmwxPTE5JnBfc">link to the manual</a>

January 23, 2005

Your quote: "I used almost absolute darkness and it is working up to 8000."

In absolute darkness, the only light would be the light from your flash unit. The shutter speed on the camera would not matter at all. The duration of the flash would determine if your image stopped the action or was blurred.

Generally, when a flash is fired at a lower power it's duration declines. See this web site:<url> http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/hummer/humguide1.htm </url>

If you set the same ISO and aperture, and are using the same model of flash unit at the same power in complete darkness from the same distance, you should get the exact same image from any camera at any shutter speed that is longer than the duration of the flash.

I think the differences you are finding are a result of the different flash units, and the cameras setting different output levels of the flash units.

January 23, 2005

Your quote: "I used almost absolute darkness and it is working up to 8000."

In absolute darkness, the only light would be the light from your flash unit. The shutter speed on the camera would not matter at all. The duration of the flash would determine if your image stopped the action or was blurred.

Generally, when a flash is fired at a lower power it's duration declines. See this <url> http://www.rpphoto.com/howto/hummer/humguide1.htm </url>

If you set the same ISO and aperture, and are using the same model of flash unit at the same power in complete darkness from the same distance, you should get the exact same image from any camera at any shutter speed that is longer than the duration of the flash.

I think the differences you are finding are a result of the different flash units, and the cameras setting different output levels of the flash units.

December 12, 2004

Picture Project 1.0 came with my D70, and the plug-in worked fine.

After the Nikon software prompted me to upgrade to 1.01, PS6 crashed when I tried to open up a NEF file.

You will need the serial number from the camera to upgrade to PP 1.1 on the nikon website (at least in the USA on www.nikonusa.com). After I did that upgrade, I could once again open the D70 NEF files in PS6.

Alternatively, you can download Nikon View from the Nikon website (you also need a camera's serial number), but I didn't really care for Nikon View's interface at all.

December 5, 2004

I have an N90s, that I've had and enjoyed using for 6 years or so.

Downsides:

1. The new G lenses do not have an aperture ring. You cannot shoot in aperture priority with the N90 and N90s.

2. As aforementioned, no VR support

Upside:

The camera's meter works with non-CPU lenses, whereas the D70 and (I think the N80) do not.

October 29, 2004

I've had my D70 for about a month now, and the built in speedlight

stopped firing today.

I was using the built-in for fill light, and decided to use an SB-28

attached to the camera to see if I could bring my fill a little

further off the camera. After I removed the SB-28, the built-in

wouldn't fire.

I recharged the battery, I reset the menus. I set the camera to

manual and popped up the flash, but it won't fire.

I'm away from the manual this week. Can you think of anything else

that could be reset to get the speedlight working again? Or am I

going to have to be without my camera for a while.

September 1, 2004

There's a pretty good primer right here on photo.net, I think it's worth a read:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/">photo.net/learn</a>

This part of the tutorial has an explanation of flash:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/making-photographs/light">photo.net/making-photographs/light</a>

And this page goes into some detail about on camera flash:

<a href="http://www.photo.net/learn/point-and-shoot-tips">photo.net/learn/point-and-shoot-tips</a>

December 11, 2003

I have an original Minolta Dimage Scan Dual (SCSI), that according to Minolta would not work with Win XP.

I was on Minolta's website (which is not very usable), and did not find a new driver for the original Scan Dual, and I learned this:

Notes on use with Windows XP Home Edition / Windows XP Professional.

1.Hardware compatibility

There are two types of Dimage Scan Dual hardware, one type does not support the New Power Macintosh G3 (Blue&White) and the other does. Only the latter type is compatible with Windows XP.

Your Dimage Scan Dual unit can be used on Windows XP if ....>

a) Box

-If a "Compatible with New G3" triangle-shape sticker is present on the outside of the box.

b)Enclosures

- If the New Power Macintosh G3 is listed in the system requirements table in the instruction manual for Macintosh.

- If an insertion sheet involving the information about the New Power Macintosh G3 was supplied in the kit.

- If the Dimage Scan Dual CD-ROM contains version 2.1.0 or later driver.

2.Driver software installation

You must be logged on as a computer administrator to complete the installation.

I went to www.hamrick.com, and downloaded Vuescan, which will drive the scanner under Win XP.. I think Vuescan software has been thoroughly reviewed here at photo.net, getting rave reviews. I don�t mind paying $60 for Vuescan.

I do mind, however, that Minolta is too lazy to bother supporting their products. I can assure you that I won�t be buying anything of theirs again any time soon due to this lack of support.

December 11, 2003

I was on Minolta's website (which is not very usable), and did not find a new driver for the original Scan Dual, and I learned this:

Notes on use with Windows XP Home Edition / Windows XP Professional.

1.Hardware compatibility

There are two types of Dimage Scan Dual hardware, one type does not support the New Power Macintosh G3 (Blue&White) and the other does. Only the latter type is compatible with Windows XP.

Your Dimage Scan Dual unit can be used on Windows XP if ....>

a) Box

-If a "Compatible with New G3" triangle-shape sticker is present on the outside of the box.

b)Enclosures

- If the New Power Macintosh G3 is listed in the system requirements table in the instruction manual for Macintosh.

- If an insertion sheet involving the information about the New Power Macintosh G3 was supplied in the kit.

- If the Dimage Scan Dual CD-ROM contains version 2.1.0 or later driver.

2.Driver software installation

You must be logged on as a computer administrator to complete the installation.

I went to www.hamrick.com, and downloaded Vuescan, which will drive the scanner under Win XP.. I think Vuescan software has been thoroughly reviewed here at photo.net, getting rave reviews. I don�t mind paying $60 for Vuescan, I do mind, however, that Minolta is too lazy to bother supporting their products. I can assure you that I won�t be buying anything of theirs again any time soon due to this lack of support.

July 25, 2003

I decided to take the printer apart. The rollers are attached to individual plastic parts that are each held in place by a little metal paper clip / spring like part. The metal clips are held in place at a 90 degree angle behind the orange belt.

The clip that held the plastic housing that held the roller that was smearing the ink was out of place. This was putting the roller only a millimeter or two out of place, where it picked up ink from the print head. I got a needle-nosed pliers in there and put the clip back where it belongs.

My printer is now working correctly again.

July 9, 2003

Steven, thanks for your answer. I got i there and cleaned it as best I could. The first box of Super B Glossy Film I bought came with a cleaning sheet, it's long lost any stickyness, are those still available? It seems like that might be even better than running regular paper through it.

July 9, 2003

Thanks for your answers. I figure she'll use film to get 4x6 proofs. But I'm going to suggest the 820. She'll do a few 4x6's and some 8x10's here and there. I don't think the pigmented inks and separate ink cartridges would be great for them, as the'll probably favor glossy to matte, and track of 6 ink cartridges instead of 2 is probably a negative to a lighter user.

July 8, 2003

I have been asked to recommend a photo printer to someone who is

going to print out photographs of her new baby twins. She's not going

to make ICC profiles, and will probably only spend a minimal amount

of time tweaking images taken with a digital point and shoot.

I have an aging Epson 1270, and would be able to offer more expertise

(help desk service) regarding Epson, so that was my first instinct.

But I've read such great things about the new Canon's, that I would

probably buy a Canon i9100 if I were the one buying a new printer.

She doesn't need bigger than 8x10, so my first instinct was to

recommend a $220 Canon i950 (what I'd buy for that size). But I've

been doing some thinking, and there are very little posts here around

the less expensive photo printers. Should I be recommending the $75

EPSON Stylus Photo 820? Or is there a better choice in between for

someone who is computer literate, will upload images from a digital

camera into Photoshop Elements and print them out with at most a

levels adjustment?

July 8, 2003

I have an Epson 1270 has a few problems, which are rendering many of

my prints useless. I emailed Epson and got no reply.

The tenth roller from the right (the grey ones that run over the

paper before it reaches the print head) on my printer is picking up

ink and leaving black blots on my prints, and it gets worse towards

the end of a print.

I was thinking that replacing the pads on the left and right end of

the printer carraige might help. Especially the one on the right

(which appears to be attached to a drain?) is completely saturated. I

blotted it and came away with a lot of ink. Is there a source for

these? They appear to be difficult to remove.

Occasionally I get little white marks that appear to come from one of

the metal cogs, is this repairable?

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Posts posted by scotth