michaelmarcus

Mon DIEU :)

I discovered V. Meier's work last week, in a bookstore, and was astonished. Why is her work being

discussed in this thread dedicated to someone else? (Also, she may have used cameras other

than Rollieflex, perhaps Leica, but is that known for certain?)

Bob-West Hartford. Are thinking of Simons, perhaps, in East Hartford? Thanks to one and all for responding. I accidentally disabled the "alert" so my question became inactive, but I think that my questions has been answered. I'm sure there will be more down the road!

I have, through the generosity of my wife's cousin, just been given a magnificent Linholf Super Technika with

Rangefinder and 150mm S-K lens. Lots of filters and film holders. Lens pristine. I have no clue how to load the

film, what to do with the film once its purchased. Do I load sheets into the holders in total darkness? Yes,

it's a stupid question but this is totally new to me. I hope that the answer is no. I am fairly certain I can

find a place, either local or not, to process the negatives. Or perhaps someone can recommend a developer. I

want to shoot relatively low ISO B & W and color, landscape only, small aperture, maximum depth of field, mounted

on tripod only. I still have to read more about how the principles of LF and how to use this camera. And of

course test the shutter speeds, perhaps change the ground glass, see if there are any light leaks in the bellows,

etc., before even attempting to photograph. I do still shoot film w/Leica M7, Rolleiflex, Nikon F. Can't wait

to learn this whole new system. This beast collapses my not so flimsy tripod! Yeah, I got a bunch of digital

cameras but I'm still old school. Anyway, ar this point, all I have done is figure out the camera parts and how

to open it up, some basic operation. I have no clue how to use the rangefinder attachment, how to focus this

beast (the arrow in the manual basically points to nothing for "focusing knob"), how and why to tilt or rise, etc

etc. Heck, I don't even know why there is a bellows at all! Help, anyone! Especially with regard to film. I

have located a few websites devoted to LF, but authors are assuming prior knowledge that I simply don't have.

TIA, Michael Marcus in CT

Thank you one and all for your replies. I'm afraid that I remain confused, but so what. Maybe I'll win at the casino next time I go and get the Leica/rebranded Metz dedicated. I will keep the M8 till it (will eventually and supposedly) cease to operate, no way to afford a trade in or acquire the M9. I'll just avoid flash for the time being and use my Nikon DSLR and the SB600 when flash is called for! Problem solved...

Yes, I know that it is preferable not to use flash with any Leica. Also know that SF20 can be used in A mode

with M8 and that TTL may be indistinguishable from A anyway. Also, I know that I cannot use my Nikon SB600 with

M8, should have bought the SB800, darn it, but that was a long time ago and way before I acquired the M8. The

SF20 is no bounce or swivel, as you all know. I have read many confusing posts regarding wein safe synchs pros

and cons or even whether such a device is even necessary, since M8 is said to have a built in protection against

high voltage. The net result for me is confusion. So to keep it simple: on occasion when I want to use a flash

with the M8 that can at least bounce, can I use my Vivitar 2800, mounted on the hot shoe? There is no place for

cable insertion on the M8 and I don't want to buy a new expensive flash or cords. like the $700 or so Leica

branded flash. Someone suggested Metz c-20, which at least is not expensive and can be bounced. Is that Metz a

safe solution, mounted directly onto the camera? And if so, can someone suggest a diffuser for it? Will

appreciate any replies! TIA, Michael

I LOVED the R8. But I traded it in along with my R lenses. It is a truly great camera. I now prefer to shoot film with the M rangefinders, and if I wanted to trek somewhere with a boatload of SLR film gear, I have a Nikon FTn with 5 lenses and a still working meter! You are correct about the R4 problems, but they were OK after a certain serial number, I no longer remember which.

a boon! a boon! a boon! especially with an old Nikon or Leica!

<p>Shun, great, I'll look at that site. CPM good thinking, but in this case we are talking about a young woman who doesn't know what ISO is! or "f" stop or shutter speed for that matter! she went through several point and shoots, she has the "eye." in general I agree with you though and get your point about the younger folks. Now I have played a bit with the D3000. I am about to upload the pics into iphoto to see what they look like. Something curious is: the new AF-S 18-55 lens doesn't seem to move at all when shooting, i.e. I don't detect it autofocusing. Whereas the older AF-S 55-200 moves perceptibly, and quickly, and quietly. What am I missing here?</p>

<p>Shun: thanks again. Yes, the 80-200 is AF-S. As for the non-AI Nikkors, I am surprised at what you have written. I was poking around the web and there was a site that had NO! NO! NO! NO! with regards to the compatibility of non-AI Nikkors. If they are AI'd, however, there would work in a very limited way in M mode only. Or something like that. Battery still not fully charged for the D3000, so I have fiddled around with it yet at all.</p>

<p>So far, so good. Thanks to all. Daughter (age 22) was <em><strong>very comfortable </strong> </em> using the D70s last night at a big party and took lots of really great shots. And I too had suspected that she would think of the camera most for its "image" in the "accessory' sense rather than the photographic sense! But this turns out to not be the case! We will spend time tomorrow with me teaching her what I can about the basics before she returns home to the midwest tomorrow. Using or not using command/slave flash setup not an issue for me. Also I think that the D3000 lack of built-in AF motor is a non-issue for me since the only Nikon digital lenses I have (apart from the new VR that comes with the D3000) are the two that came over four years ago with the D70s as a kit, <em><strong>which have built in motors (right???)</strong> </em> <strong><em>So I am assuming that the 80-200mm that came with the D70s, that I am keeping, will work on the D3000 because it has a built-in motor, right??? And I am also going to keep -- without feeling guilty --- my SB600 flash unit because it is compatible with the D3000.</em> </strong> I haven't charged up the battery or tried anything yet with the D3000, will do so later today. I have about a half dozen non-AI Nikkors that I know are incompatible, and I won't bother getting them AI'd, at least not at this point. I'd rather shoot film with 'em using my FTn that has a still-working meter!!! I note that the D3000 sensor is just a tad larger than the D70s, and thanks much Shun for the note about the viewfinder. Thanks Pete for info about RAW and noise. So where it stands at this point is, it looks like dad gets an upgrade to 10mp and daughter gets the older camera. I was NOT planning on buying an higher end or full-frame DSLR at this point at all. Unless there are other crucial details not known yet, this matter may be settled!.</p>

<p>I am seeking repsonses: my daughter (a photography novice but talented) wants a DSLR. I have a D70s that I bought just over 4 years ago. Large, clumsy, not "entry level." Very heavily used. Maybe a year or two left in it? I have just picked up Nikon's replacement for the D40, the D3000. Smaller than the D70s and very user friendly. <strong>But I am wondering:</strong> are there Sensor size or Noise or NEF or other issues that would make it a <strong>DISADVANTAGE</strong> for <strong>me to keep the D3000 </strong> (10mp) and give her the D70s (6mp) to learn on? (I'll swap out for the newer VR lens though!). I am OK with just giving her the new D3000 because of its size and user friendliness. I do a lot of rangefinder work and some 2 1/4; but <strong>if "entry-level" in 2010 is BETTER than the D70s in 2006, then maybe I should keep the D3000 and let her learn on the older camera. What opinions, please?</strong> I need to make a decision within 36 hours! </p>

<p>Thanks PC B, but I sure wish this was easier! I could probably get the tech specs for the Nikon SB600 online, including its voltage (whatever), but how that relates to the Wein safe synch and the M8 electronics will still elude me!!! My main issue is avoiding having to buy anything new and unnecessary, like the expensive SF58, which swivels, bounces, etc. doing all those things one might want to do when using a flash at all! (unlike all previous Leica branded flashes)</p>

<p>Thanks Jeff D, that's a good idea, about contacting Nikon, though my instincts tell me they might say: "at your own risk"</p>

<p>Can anyone answer my specific question about the Wein safe synch?</p>

<p>Um, this is not exactly an answer, but I have a question which I know has already come up on Leica forums regarding flash. I avoid flash but in certain situations want or need it. I am not sure that the question has been answered definitively. SF20 even without bounce etc. works fine TTL w/M7 and fine on "A" with M8. Now, here's the question. Suppose I want to use my Nikon SB600 flash on my M7 and / or M8. If I buy the Wein "Safe Synch", am I REALLY 100% SAFE using that Nikon flash on either or both cameras? Obviously I don't want to fry anything. Does anyone have a definitive answer / additional tips or vital info for this very risk averse person? Thanks, Michael in CT</p>

Thank you for your replies. My son is going to China in a few weeks and needs a digital camera of his own. So I see a Nikon L11 for him which can use the card. Still I am wondering if the card will be useable in the M8 in the future. so now I can have my cake and eat it too!

Duh, without doing (or the ability to do) research ahead of time, I purchased a

duty-free SanDisk Extreme III SDHC 4 GB card in the Amsterdam airport a few

weeks ago, thinking (hah hah) that the M8 would accomodate it. Well, it

doesn't, as I'm sure most of you know. My bad. But here's my question: is it

possible that a firmware update would make the SDHC useable? OK, so for the

time being I might as well have a fur-lined teacup, but if those of you with

technical savvy can answer my question, I'd appreciate it. And, incidentally,

if anyone wishes to purchase this "virgin" card (I put in the camera only to get

whatever it message it gave me about unreadablity) and USB reader it can be had

for a reasonable price! I'll rummage around for my receipt... I think only the

highest end DSLRs can use this card at the moment...thanks for any and all

replies. Michael Marcus

thank you very much for your replies; i downloaded the 4.0 beta.

Anyone have any ideas why this is so? I get a "quit unexpectedly" message and

crash report when I try to install the software that came with a brand-new M8.

Thank you Cosina snap for your intelligent response. Perhaps I should have added: What a relief!

Hi all, I have read with interest your posts for quite a while. I confess

that last winter I got a Nikon D70 for convenience, and while in India this

past summer I happily clicked the shutter 8000 film-free times! I also confess

that I would love to have an M8 to put my 3 lenses on. Ah, but fate intervenes

in unforeseen ways. We have to replace our car! So, the matter is settled

for me until (and if) there is an M9. Got a couple of rolls of Tri-X today

for my M7...

I have been routinely picking the camera up every once a while and firing off a few random shots to see if it works properly, and out of a dozen or so times only one, the first exposure, was poor. Maybe it is a shutter issue, thank you Lex. And actually, I don't really have to press on the release button all that hard. Is there perhaps something about the AE-L AF-L functions or shutter speed settings that I don't know how or what to do yet? I was very very impressed with Nikon Tech --- the phone was answered on the first ring, but the person I spoke with was utterly clueless about the problem I was reporting! Thanks again all, if this persists I certainly will send the camera in.

Yes, but the same results occurred outdoors in daylight a few hours ago. Now the camera seems to work fine, but only if I am pressing hard (or harder than I remember having to press last week) on the shutter. Thanks all for your responses!

OK --- new data. The camera seems to work properly only when I press down on the shutter very hard. I am going to keep fiddling now for a while. The viewfinder is fine and the card is formatted and the battery is fully charged. But something is definitely screwy!