g_rard_morris

Hi all,

The object of an infinity cove is of course to reduce reflected light to a minimum, and give the impression that nothing exists other than the object to be photographed and the lights used to illuminate it.

I have built and installed more than thirty studio coves of different dimensions.

Ideally an infinity cove should be circular around a vertical axis (however many are eliptical), with a parabolic radial section.

The parabola is chosen such that 80% of light rays would make at least three wall reflections before returning into the "studio" area. (Compared with one for Cyclo) The internal surface needs to be of high quality matt black. Bear in mind that Matt black paints are rarely better than 80% black! In other words, 20% of unwanted light comes back from matt black cyclo, and less than 1% from a properly conceived infinity cove.

Full size units are costly items whatever the materials, but a macro unit could be made with circular sections of cardboard with suitably dimensioned circular holes, glued as a pile of sheets one abobe the other. For 50cms internal height expect a max. internal diameter approx 150cms; the "floor surface would be some 75 cms in diameter (max).

For practical reasons the unit is usually made with a quadrant section missing, to allow access, lights etc.

For 2.2 metres in height, expect an overall internal diameter of 6 metres, this will allow a flat floor area of only 3 metres diameter at best.

The results of course are exceptional, giving the photographer total control over his lighting, and contrast which would be impossible otherwise.

Mail me if you want to know more.

Regards,

Gerard

Thanks to all of you,

I found that the camera had 4862 shots fired since new, of which I had fired over 300 myself in less than a week. In other words only four months use with someone like me - or in car terms - only just run in!

It's my first DSLR, bought in order to do the notebook and light meter work to reduce the number of shots fired on my ageing F4, which (to my way of thinking) gives "better" results. Slightly expensive for a lightmeter, but the savings in film will rapidly pay for that!

Best regards, Gerard

Hi All,

Does anyone know if the Nikon D70 records the total number of shots fired, and

if so how to access this information?

I have recently bought a nice looking second hand model, and was wondering if

it worked hard in it's previous life.

Best regards,

Gerard

Hi All,

Some time ago someone was seeking an autofocus tele zoom for use with Canon FD

kit.

There is one on the bay at the moment - item number 7624818322.

Regards,

Gerard<div></div>

Hi All!

I'm using an f2.8 35-70 mm Canon zoom, which is giving excellent results (for a zoom) however I can't

fathom the lens hood, which seems to rotate with the focussing ring. This seems strange since I would have

thought that (being a flower or petal type) it would stay aligned with the picture format, which is only the case

when the lens is set to infinity.

What's wrong?

Regards to all

Gerard

Hi Guys,

I have recently aquired a 35mm Chrome Snout f2 lens, but have not yet developped the first films. I'm wondering if all the Chrome snouts with a yellow hue are "thorium" lenses?

Regards Gérard

Hi Dave,

I have a chrome nose f1:1,4 50mm, and have recently purchased a chrome nosed f1:2 35mm which has not yet arrived.

I'm not too pleased with the 50mm, which does not have SC or SSC marking, albeit that the lens looks absolutely new. The results don't look good above 8x10 (inch) enlargements, and I was expecting better.

I've ordered the 35mm after reading so many great reviews, so let's see when it arrives.

That said I'm perhaps hard to please, because only one of my 50mm lenses seems to be sharper and that is the Color Yashinon on an old Yashica Electro GSN.

By the way can anyone tell me if all the chrome nosed 35mm lenses were made with thorium glass?

Regards Gérard