whydangle

<p>One method I use for white or dark contrast halos that result from oversharpening or blending exposures is to set the clone stamp tool's blend mode to darken or lighten. If I have a white halo that is between a bright sky and a dark mountain, I will set the blend mode to darken. Then I will paint along the edge without worrying about cloning the darker object because the darken blend mode will only darken pixels that are lighter than the source, in this case the source being the sky. On the flip side, I can also lighten dark outline halos with lighten, just making sure I source the darker object. The clone stamp will lighten the dark line but will not affect the brighter areas because it can't lighten something that is lighter than the source. Takes some practice and it is certainly much easier when using a digital tablet, but because you are using the blend modes, it doesn't require such preciseness! </p>

<p>OK, so I see that there is an app that I can use to share that automatically links when I upload new images, but alas, it is a handful of previously uploaded images that I was hoping to share. Aaarrrgg!</p>

<p>I used to use the Facebook button to share my images on my facebook wall, but that button is now gone with only a "like" button below the image. I don't want to "like" my own page to share it! Any chance that share button can return?</p>

<p>Some considerations: We all have different perceptions about sharpening, meaning some may view my workflow as oversharpening, some may prefer a softer film appearance. You should try a few different approaches with a duplicate file and then use your history palette to move back and forth. Try a sharpening pass first, then upres with bicubic smoother, followed by another sharpening with a higher amount and radius, similar to my approach. The bicubic smoother will soften the first pass, so the second pass is necessary. Try another with sharpening at output res only. Experiment until you find something that suits your eye. Try the sharpening after ACR upres like others have suggested. Don't rely on our styles, tweak it to your own tolerance. Second: Don't forget that these large prints will be/should be viewed at normal viewing distance, so viewing sharpening at pixel view on your monitor may not be apples to apples. Finally: Don't forget that the type of paper being used in printing will reduce sharpening, depending on whether you will be using something high gloss, semi gloss or cotton fine art. Dot Gain will eliminate a certain amount of sharpening with any paper, but more so with fine art papers. Hope this is helpful!</p>

<p>Try the "Reposition Only" button and that should work if you are using a pano system with a level camera. </p>

<p>Jeff, I use the surface blur filter in Photoshop (available in CS2 to CS4. Filter/Blur/Surface Blur). It works well for noise and also for softening while maintaining hard edges. The settings I use for noise issues is a radius of 1 or 2 and a threshold of about 6 to 8, although I have ramped up the threshold as high as 150 as long as the radius remains a small number. Play with it on a separate layer because it is a destructive adjustment, as opposed to a layer adjustment.</p>

<p>Hi Noli. I can't add anything that hasn't already been touched on regarding equipment. I have, however, traveled extensively in the western U.S. If you are flying in to the Seattle area, then Glacier National Park in Montana is a must. The possibilities for photography are great. You could exhaust all of your time exploring the many different locations within the park. I highly recommend traveling up the western side of the park along the Flathead River to Bowman Lake and Kintla Lake. If you are going to the Utah Parks, you simply cannot beat the Canyonlands near Moab. This would include Canyonlands Nat'l Park and Arches Nat'l Park. I would recommend these over the Grand Canyon for the diversity of photographic possibilities. Keep in mind, the parks in Washington state such as Rainier, North Cascades and Olympic during this time of year could be socked in with rainy weather. I really think you would benefit from visiting the less popular parks. Yellowstone is amazing, but I feel over-rated, as well as the Grand Canyon. Canyonlands and Arches are less crowded and the variety of photo opportunities is much greater. For some sample images of the Moab area, visit Harry Lichtman's portfolio on P.Net. He has some of the best! Have a great trip!</p>

<p>I have done fam and friends a couple of times in the past, this would be my first true commissioned wedding. Pentax K10D, F4 @ 1/60, ISO 200, Sigma DC 17-70mm set to 48mm, shaded available light with fill flash. Processed in Photoshop CS3. I'll call it "High Key Couple".</p><div></div>