todd_jacobs

<p>Hello All<br>

I had someone fix the slow shutter on my IIIa. Unlike the M which will completely engage the shutter when the shutter release button is pressed both at faster than 1/20th of a second and slower than 1/20th of a second, this camera will completely engage when the shutter button is pressed at speeds faster than 1/20th of a second BUT only works when the shutter button is RELEASED at speeds slower than 1/20th of a second.<br>

Is this normal?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>I got the crazy idea to clean and lube my IIIa myself. I'm pretty good at minuscule repair for other things. I'd like to tackle this as a project. Specifically, what tools will I need to complete the job and where can I obtain them?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>I'd love to have the viewfinder. In the meantime I've got an old Ansco bellows camera with a fold down 'viewfinder' I may remove and stick on top.<br>

Todd</p>

Hello All,

I am retouching a family portrait.

I am extending a curtain bkgd by coping and pasting a section of the curtain to replace a

bookcase in the corner of the portrait. I also know that creating the mask over one of the

people is best done by making many free form masks and merging them into one. For

instance, one selection will just be the left shoulder, another will be the left side of the

head another the right side of the head, another the right shoulder, etc. Then I should

combine the masks and then copy and paste the curtain over this 'total' mask.

My question is what is the best way to make and then combine or flatten the many masks

that will make up the total mask that has to go over the person?

Thanks,

Todd Jacobs

Sorry, that was rather vague. I use mac OSX 10.3.x. I have an Epson R2400 and the driver I

loaded came from the CD that came with the printer.

Thanks again.

Hello All,

My print seems to like the 'leading' edge as it comes out of the printer. For instance, a 6x8

inch print has a half inch border on the left side and 1and a half inches on the right on

8x10 paper. It would be nice if it was centered left and right as well as top to bottom. Can

you give me a few clues as to what commands I should tweak first?

thanks

Hello All,

I am trying to get my iPod to see the SD card inserted in a Belkin

Media Reader. The card only goes in one way, the light goes on, on the

Media Reader, the Media Reader is connected to the iPod, the iPod only

says in the Import file- no card inserted. It just won't recognize the

SD card. Are there other setups I need to perform to the iPod? My SD

card contains still images made on my Panasonic camcorder.

Thanks for your help.

Hello All,

I'm traveling and thought about copying my still images to my Ipod for

storage and backup. Can this be done directly from the camera to the Ipod?

Thanks

Todd Jacobs

I've had my 2400 for about 3 weeks now. Actually, I bought the 1800 and only kept it one

day feeling the 2400 was better suited for me considering I expect to do more B&W than

color. I have a friend who is a commercial digital photographer and he simply said Wow!

when I showed him a test image intended for color calibration. He has used a 2200 for his

personal art work. I have pretty much stuck to using Epson's Heavyweight Matte paper and

Epson's inks for now and I think its beautiful stuff. Just like in the darkroom days you get

in a groove with a chemistry, paper combination until you know it like the back of your

hand. I imagine the new ink is the reason these prints are dry in what seems a matter of

minutes. I have to say, when I did my B&W darkroom work in the old days, it was a

subjective opinion that I did not dwell too much on weather the image was 'cool' or 'warm'

enough depending on the chemistry used. With tests I feel fully confident I can get the

same results tweaking to find that so called "perfect" neutrality. I am just not that

particular about the perfect neutrality. There is too much other stuff to worry about i.e.;

intensity of your darks, the range of your image, contrast, brightness, cropping, burn this,

dodge that, subject matter, etc, etc, etc. I haven't been in a darkroom for about 5 years,

I've had the computer and the software to front end my art, now I have the back end (a

quality printer) to finish the job and I can't be happier. I bought this thing to be able to

print a wedding job I'll be doing in two months because they want a hand colored B&W

look. I know this printer can do the job.

Todd Jacobs

Thank you for your advice. I'll look into third party CC.

Todd

Hello All,

As some of you may have guessed, I am a novice in the digital darkroom. It seems I'm

presented with a choice (lucky me) of color management systems because I use Mac. While

its good to explore differences, I think I should focus onto one color management system.

My gut is to use Colorsync. So, could any of you gently guide me in the right direction to

1) learn Colorsync, 2) set up my system to only use Colorsync or where to avoid having

other color management influences creep into my system.

Gracias,

Todd Jacobs

Todd here,

Let me add that the Brilliant Website has profiles for the R1800. Note the R1800 has a completely different inkset than the R2400. My quess is the 2200 profile is closer than the R1800 because the ink sets closer resemble the R2400 with a black tank and two greys.

Hello All,

I cannot find profiles matching an Epson R2400 with Brilliant Papers

through Googling. The Brilliant Website does not have profiles for

the R2400 or for any R model. What would you do? How close are 2200

profiles with the R2400 which is available on the Brilliant Website.

Are profiles ment to be a starting point to be tweeked? Have you ever

tried to really push the envelope by profiling say an HP printer of

yesteryear with a modern Epson just to see what happens?

Thanks,

Todd Jacobs

Actually I first got the R1800, took it back and got the R2400 for the better B&W abilities. First few prints on the R2400 for B&W with matte paper and color with glossy paper are terrific.

Todd Jacobs

I returned the R1800 and got the R2400

Todd Jacobs

From all my googling I found out that inkjet papers are all coated to control the ink on the paper, otherwise it will bleed between the 'dots'. Which leads me to another question. Can silver halide photo paper be run through an inkjet printer? They are coated. I threw away a lot of nice Ilford Gallerie double weight matte paper a while ago.

Todd Jacobs

Hell All,

Has anyone used any nice paper purchased from an Art Store for their

inkjet? I have an R2400. My local store has 100% rag Bristol 1 ply on

sale.

Todd Jacobs

Hello All,

I am curious as to all of the ways my Epson R2400 will perform an ink

charge. I assume that most Epsons in this class perform the same way.

For instance, 1)it will charge the ink when it is set up. 2) it will

charge every time it is turned on. 3) it will charge when I change the

black cartridges from Photo to Matte, which leads me to another

question, does it only charge the Black cartridge or do all the other

7 ink tanks go through a charge? 4) does it charge when I view the

printer setup utility (I have a Mac) and refresh the identifying of

the Black Cartridge? I think it does.

My intent is to know when it will charge the ink tanks so I can manage

intellegently weather I want to perform a task knowing it will charge

the inks giving me the option to perform another task that produces

the same result without charging all the ink tanks. Smart or wishful

thinking?

At the least I would like to know your experiences when the inks

charge. Giving us the knowledge when to avoid tasks when possible.

Taking this to another level, how about a pro and con regarding each

charge ID, for instance charge ID#2 (see above) is when you turn on

the printer, should one leave the printer on to avoid this? I've read

pros and cons concerning.

I will be happy to put all the info gleaned into a readable format for

us all.

Todd Jacobs

I tried the Epson r1800 and decided that the r2400 was what I really wanted and needed.

Should I remove the drivers for the 1800? I use a Mac with OSX 10.3.9. I have already

returned the 1800 so the CD that came with the machine is gone.

Thanks,

Todd Jacobs

I purchased the r1800 two days ago. I took it back today and bit the bullet for the r2400.

For the extra $300 I have the satisfaction that I have a true B&W printer. Since I expect to

be more discriminating about my B&W than my color I will not lose any sleep searching the

forums trying to tweak the 1800 into becoming more than two black tanks can produce.

I'm not so sure that two B&W tanks are used at the same time anyway.

Todd Jacobs

I hope I diddn't purchase the wrong printer. I got the Epson r1800

thinking it was a good compromise between B&W and color because I want

to make B&W prints with some handcoloring. I also expect to make

archival B&W prints and the occasional color image. This necessitates

a good B&W with some color that can be less than perfect. I now see

that the r2400 has a tri-color B&W inkset. Yeah, yeah I know, I

dropped a bundle without really doing my homework, actually I balked

at the extra $300 but now think it would have been well spent. At any

rate, can I customize my r1800 with additional B&W inksets in place of

certain existing ink slots, with the appropriate driver to make better

B&W prints? Granted, I've only had the machine up and running for a

day and haven't learned how to drive it yet.

Thanks,

Todd Jacobs

Hello All,

I'm gonna create a collage for my father of 4 generations of photos.

Probably 25 to 40 images total. Output on 13x19 paper. I expect to use

Photoshop to compose them. While each image will not have a very large

file size, once I start stacking them up its gonna be big. I am using

an iMac with only 356 mgs of Ram so I'm trying to keep the final size

of the image small enough to work and print.

My question is when should I start combigning the layers into one.

After each successive addition? Should I stack up a few to a dozen

layers before I combign them? Am I going to loose some detail when I

combign layers?

Thanks for your help.

Todd Jacobs

Thank you for all of your input to this thread. I've narrowed down my choices to a

refurbished Epson 2200 and a new HP 8750. Any further comments regarding these two

'fine' machines are welcome.

Todd Jacobs <LeicaM13@comcast.net>

Hello All,

I am jumping into the digital darkroom. I think I am going to put up my old safelight in the

corner above the computer just for old times sake.

I am in the process of selecting a printer and have narrowed it down to the Epson r1800,

the Canon i9900 or the HP 8750. I intend to use it for both B&W work and color. Firstly,

pros and cons regarding each of these printers would be appreciated. Secondly and most

importantly which would you recommend if I were to hand color the B&W prints the old

fashioned way with colored pencils, chalks, I even used to use on my matte finish papers,

retouching inks that came in the little jars in a sort of dry application that worked nice.

Thanks,

Todd Jacobs <LeicaM13@comcast.net>