scott levine

<p>The HGX Promaster filters are made by Marumi in Japan. They are extremely well made and are the same caliber as Hoya's top filters. Marumi is also an OEM for some of the camera manufactures filters too.</p>

<p>I would take a long look at the new 24-120 F4 VR. On dx it will be equivalent to a 36-180. Focus is not as brisk as the 24-70, but you do get some extended range that would be useful for portraits. </p>

<p>It will drop your contrast, especially if you are shooting in a backlit situation. Mamiya's service department is very fast on repairs and just removing the dust shouldn't be too expensive. </p>

<p>It will drop your contrast, especially if you are shooting in a backlit situation. Mamiya's service department is very fast on repairs and just removing the dust shouldn't be too expensive. </p>

<p>If you want to use the 127 for close focusing, the edges of the frame will be soft since it is not a flat field lens. Depending on what you are photographing, it may introduce a nice effect. You may want to rent/borrow both an extension tube and the Macro to help make your decision. If you are not shooting artwork or flat objects, the extension tube may be the way to go. </p>

<p>Hi Jennifer,<br /> I own both lenses and use them on D300s. The 24-70 is superior for group-shots and portraits, I also think it focuses faster than the 17-55. With the 24-70, there is less distortion on the wide end and at 70mm, you can get a nice head shot. As far as sharpness goes, the 17-55 is very good (f8 being the sweet spot), but not up to the level of the 24-70 (f5.6 is super sharp). I will only use the 17-55 for formals, if I have a large group shot that requires it. I use both the 17-55 and 12-24 for receptions and events, but prefer the 24-70 for anything in the studio, location portraits and wedding formals. Once you get the 24-70, it will make all your other lenses seem soft, it's that good, no, it's that great.</p>

<p>Scott</p>

Make sure that the camera is set to the on position and not in manual override. I haven't owned one in 10 years, so I am not completely sure, but I think the white dot on the ring under the shutter button should be strait up.

The MB-D10 seems more solid to me. Definitely worth the investment. It does work

differently. One battery stays in the camera, and one in the grip.

At low ISO you will see an improvement in shadow detail as well as dark subjects. Focusing is

amazing.

Mamiya USA just introduced the ZD Back for 6,999.00. Their website has all the details.

www.mamiya.com

This should be the item, Mamiya Part # RA401. You may want to check with Mamiya America

to be sure.

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

A=details&Q=&is=REG&O=productlist&sku=34707

18004Mamiya

They will mount, but you have no automatic diaphragm. IE, you need to stop the lens down

before you shoot. Not a very practical way to work.

If you go to Polaroids website, they still have Type 89 film available. Just use it until you can't

get it anymore or Buy a polaroid back for the Type 669 etc. No one else makes film for that

back.

Before you dive in to a pool of headaches, you may want to consider dropping your first three

packages and adding one more at a higher price. This way you can make a living without

feeling restless every-time someone call for a date that is already booked. It is about quality

not quantity.

Keep in mind that Mamiya makes 3 leaf lenses for the 645 Pro/ProTL system. 55 2.8, 802.8

and 150 3.8. All will sync to 1/500. I own both the ProTL system as well as the RZ. For

studio photography on a stand there is nothing like the RZ for a huge negative. For shooting

handheld, the 645 is great.

Kodak Portra 160NC has an incredible contrast range and smooth . Portra 400NC or 800

for low light. Although I think the new Portra 800 still has too much contrast for my taste.

I just picked up some of the new Portra II which is suppose to be even sharper and better for

scanning then the previous generation.

If you are trying to fire the camera without film, the back of the camera has to be open.

Make sure the multiple exposure knob is not engaged. It has been a while since I have

owned that model so I am not sure which side it is on. You want to make sure the white dot

is not lined up with the M and that it is securely counterclockwise at the 12 o'clock position.

Take a look at the Calumet/Bowens range. They make pack/head, monolights, as well as

battery powered units, all taking the same reflectors and accessories. I've used Calumet/

Bowens for over 20 years and they are rock solid. My vote for softboxes would be Plume,

Calumet light panels and California Sunbounce for reflectors. Manfrotto for grip and support.

As stated above, the answer is yes.

 

The first inserts where almost all metal, the second generation use half metal and half

plastic, and the third generation look like the second with a larger film tension roller.

 

I would suggest you go with second or third generation film holders. They do wind the film

tighter. In my opinion, with the cost of new ones ($99-$125) at most online stores, it's

worth it to buy new.

Less than one mm should not create an issue with exposure. If you have the 35mm or

45mm lens, they tend to have a stiff barrel which causes this kind of wear.

I would call Rita in service at Mamiya, 914-347-3300. You should be able to have the

mounts replaced. I don't know the cost, but I can tell you it will be done right. Mamiya's

service department is second to none!

Capri Albums, all styles.

Capri Album design and bind is a great product. Very user friendly for both photographer

and client.