looscanon

<p>Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 -- best lens for the money ever made. Around $400 and it's f/2.8 throughout. I use it on my original 5D and also on my 20D. Image quality compares favorably to similar Canon lenses for a lot less money.</p>

 

<p>The updated 24-70 f/2.8 L does not have IS as the original poster said. So there is even less reason for the big rise in price.<br>

<p>

<b>Moderator note: Tags and icons deleted. Against Photo.net Policy]</b>

I've had the 50L since it was first introduced. I heard about the focus shift issue a couple of months after. It's claimed by some that it's an inherent part of this type of lens and that it should have had a floating element to correct this like the 85L. However, I've tried everything to duplicate the focus shift with my 5D and I've not been able to do it. I've put it on a tripod from 3-6 feet and shot photos at all lens openings of the same object from f/1.2 to f/2.8 with the focus being spot on at all times and no deviation whatsoever. I can only tell you of my own experience with this lens. Focus shift may exist but at least one 50L doesn't have it and believe me I've tried to produce it with my camera and lens. I believe the 50L is one of the finest 50mm ever produced and the perhaps the most maligned because in a great many cases people do not understand how to use it properly because of the extremely thin depth of field involved to focus in.

<p>Whether something is worth extra money is very subjective and can't be answered by anyone except the person making the purchase. I've found that IS on any lens I own is worth paying more for and I never think about the extra $1,000, but I'm not strapped for cash and when I buy a lens I generally don't care much about the price if it has the features I want and I can afford it at the time. Others may not be so fortunate, but as they say -- "if you have to ask the price you can't afford it."</p>

<p>Davis and Sanford Traverse 5 Section Tripod w/B11 Ball Head - Padded Carrying Bag - Davis and Sanford 10 Years Warranty<br /> http://www.amazon.com/Davis-Sanford-TRAVERSEB11-Traverse-Tripod/dp/B003OBY0B2<br /> Excellent tripod. I use it with my Canon 5D. Weighs about 3lbs with ball head and can be carried with one hand. Rated to hold 11lbs. Very sturdy. About 16" folded up including head. Can be carried with one hand. Has quick release which is not that great but works. Slides on and off instead of clicking but camera is held in place by a heavy set screw. I bought it at Adorama but it is now out of stock. You can get it at Amazon at the link up above.</p>

<p>I have the original 16-35mm f/2.8L lens which I use on both my 5D classic and 20D. A very fine lens indeed. I use it mainly for landscapes and have gotten many fine photos with it. I would recommend it very highly if you can still obtain one. My son has the 16-35mm f/2.8L II and I really can't tell the difference in image quality. Another good feature of the original is that it takes 77mm filters which fit on several other Canon lenses. I believe the II model takes an 82mm filter which is not a common size.</p>

<p>My 50L has slightly more resistance when focusing then my other L lenses but is not overly hard to turn. Perhaps Canon made it that way because of the very narrow depth of field at the widest lens openings, so that when focusing manually you don't easily go past the sharpest position. My lens is among the first 50L's produced and the focusing ring resistance has remained constant since it was brand new.</p>

<p>The answer is NO you can"t use that button to access the menu or scroll up or down.</p>

<p>Since in a DSLR always focuses with the lens wide open pressing the depth of field button will have no effect on what you see when taking a photo with the lens wide open. You will only see a difference when the lens is stopped down to a small lens opening. When the lens is focused and you are using it wide open to take a photo you can press on the depth of field button forever and you will see no difference.</p>

<p>If you have the lens aperture wide open you will see what the lens sees including the blur behind the object you are focusing on as soon as you gain focus on the nearest object. DOF preview will not change anything. Try arranging a few objects close to you, one behind the other and you will see the depth of field wide open as soon as you gain focus on the nearest object. This is not a function of the camera it is a function of the lens. Sometimes the depth of field wide open is harder to see then others depending upon the distance you are focusing on.</p>

<p>I had the same problem several times with my 20D. I lifted the flash CAREFULLY with a tiny jewelers screwdriver while pressing the flash pop up button and applied WD-40 sparingly with a toothpick to the hinged parts when it popped up. Worked for a couple of years before I had to do it again. In my case I think the problem was just accumulation of dust and moisture because I didn't use the flash very much.</p>

<p>I have a 50L from the first batch that was sold, also about 3 years. Never have had any problems with it -- built like a tank. However, that being said I very seldom tweak auto focus with the USM manual adjustment. I either use auto focus or manual focus very seldom both at the same time.</p>

<p><strong>Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 ZE Planar T* Lens</strong><br>

<strong>This lens has gotten a great many positive reviews. It is manual focus on Canon bodies but you said you didn't care about that. The link below will give you information about the lens at B&H photo. It sells for $750 here in the U.S. However, any lens will break if you don't take care of it.<br /></strong><br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/583975-REG/Zeiss_1677_817_Normal_50mm_f_1_4_ZE.html#features</p>

<p>Best lens for the money -- Tamron 28-75 f/2.8. Wonderful image quality, fast lens, fair build, good but noisy focusing. This lens cannot be beat for about $350.</p>

<p>Check this out. I've bought stuff from these people. They deliver from Hong Kong no problem. Their products work and are cheap compared to Canon.<br>

http://www.linkdelight.com/LCD-Timer-Remote/LCD-Timer-Remote-AP-TR3C-for-Canon-TC-80N3-EOS-7D/Detailed-product-flyer.html<br>

Even though it says the timer is for 7D the 50D is listed as compatible.</p>

<p>Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8. The only none L lens I own. Costs about $350, has great image quality and I believe is the best lens ever made for the money it costs. For your camera it would be a good mid-range telephoto lens.</p>

<p>I have used the older version of the 100mm macro for years and it is a great mid telephoto lens with magnificent color. I have used it for head shots and outdoor scenes besides macro photography and it is an outstanding performer in all these areas. It is also very light (as compared to the 70-200 f/2.8 L IS) and I use it quite a bit on my 5D and 20D when I don't need the 200mm but do need to get closer. As far as focus is concerned, because it is a macro lens it has a greater distance to travel from macro to infinity when focusing but otherwise focusing is quite fast when you set the switch away from the closest distance setting on the lens.</p>

<p>Never had any focus problems at all with the Sunpak flash and the 5D. I only use the center focus point anyway and never bother with the other focus points using the flash. I don't think it's worth paying the extra for a Canon flash unless you are a professional. But of course that's up to you.</p>

<p>I have a Sunpak PZ42X that does everything the Canon 580 flash does except high speed sink and it costs about $150 which is less then half of the 580. It tilts, turns and has ettl and manual flash. I don't think it can be beat for the price. I use it with my 5D.</p>

<p>The Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 in my opinion is the finest "cheap" telephoto lens you can buy. I've used it for many years on my 5D and 20D with very impressive results both in low light indoors and good light outdoors at all focal lengths both stopped down and wide open. I've never had any trouble with focusing although Canon USM lenses are much smoother and quieter. For $350 I don't believe there is a better telephoto f/2.8 lens on the market and it rivals a great many more expensive lenses in image quality. This is the only non-L lens besides the 100mm f/2.8 macro that I own and I would not part with it.</p>

<p>"Many ask about the sound made by IS. This IS implementation makes a click when it starts and again when it stops. How much noise it makes during operation depends on how much motion the lens is trying to correct. If stationary, a quiet hum with a some quiet clicks can be heard if your ear is near the lens. Move the lens around and IS whirs and clicks more significantly. The sound is definitely not offensive to me."<br>

From the-digital-picture.com review of 100mm IS.</p>

<p>Your best bet is really a Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 which works very well in low light and is a very good lens with excellent image quality. It should be slightly more expensive then $300 but is a much better lens then all those mentioned above.</p>

<p>An example of focal reducer for telescopes.<br>

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/202595-REG/Meade_07545_f_6_3_Focal_Reducer_.html#features</p>

<p>They make them for telescopes and they work just fine.</p>

I've had that problem and it wasn't the USB cable but the USB port on the computer. Try connecting to another port if you have one. Fortunately I have many USB ports on my computer.I bought a 4 port USB hub after I found out it was the port. Now I have the USB connections right on my desktop and I don't disturb the computer USB ports by connecting and reconnecting the USB wire. I've found that it's not uncommon for a USB port to go bad if it's constantly being connected and reconnected.