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<p>Just picked up a T4 to play around with. I have a super w/o Zoom, but the price on this one was so good, couldn't pass up.</p>

<p>At any rate. I have a couple questions that hopefully someone can answer. So far everything seems fine but when I hit the Zoom "T" button, the viewfinder doesn't zoom. I'm assuming that's what all the different markings are for, but <em><strong>can someone confirm that the viewfinder doesn't zoom.</strong></em><br>

Also when I hit the "W" button, the lens retracts and the camera turns off. This doesn't seem right, but the manual I found online doesn't say anything regarding the zoom features other than it has them.<br>

Any help would be great!</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

Check out:<br><a href="http://www.criscam.com/store/product.php?productid=1&cat=0&page=1&featured">CRIS</a><br>

They sell the adaptor for about $30 for the rollei. They have others as well. Considering what you rack up in replacing zinc air cells, $30 is a pretty good deal.<br><br> I have no luck with my zinc cells, they only last a couple of months for me in my Yashica, and my wife's rollei only gets a few months out of them (until we had it recalibrated for 1.5v cells.)

That is a great point about the meter in the viewfinder. I started to look into the camera's and that same fact crossed my mind when I read where the LED was. Thanks for the suggestions.

Oh yeah, I also found a place that sells a really inexpensive adaptor that lets you use 1.5 volt batteries (converts the voltage to 1.3) and use them in classic cameras that take PX batteries.

Hello-

I'm looking into investing in a light meter and would love some

advice. I mainly want to use it for night photography, but it will

also serve as an everyday meter for some of my classic cameras. At

this point, price/options are not a concern, I want to know what I can

get before I start freaking out about the cost. I've been looking at

gossen, it seems there exposure times are longer and that would work

well for night photography. I am also not opposed to a digital meter.

Additionally, is there an all in one solution? A meter that works

well for both incident/reflected as well as a flash meter. Or am I

better off getting a meter for studio/flash and a separate one for

outdoor work?

Thanks.

I know this question goes a bit beyond the 1970 cutoff for this forum,

but the camera itself predates it, so here goes...

Condsidering buying a rollei 35. My wife has a 35 S that she is

extremely happy with, but I've been looking at the 35 SE. Any

advice/experiences that anyone could lend to help me decide would be

greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Thanks for the help. The 35 sounds like my best best. Does the 28 work like a normal wide angle? Any edge distortion?

Thanks for the photoshop suggestion, I've used it many times, but the purist in me wants to be able to do it in camera.

I'm looking for some advice/suggestions with a nikon PC lens, seeing that I don't know too

much about them. I take a lot of pictures of old signs, etc. but nothing too high, so I only

need to shift it slightly. I want to find an economical way to control perspective and would

love some help/advice or experiences. I use and F3HP and and FE. Thanks.

I know that there was an earlier topic that touched on this a bit but I need more help.

I recently started using an F3HP and was doing some bracketing with the EV dial. I noticed

that the shutter speeds would change when set to Auto mode. My understanding of

bracketing with the EV dial was that your metered reading stayed the same and the dial

adjusted the apeture only, not the shutter speed as well.

Does the EV dial not work in auto mode. Should I set it to manual first? Am I doing

something wrong? Can someone set me straight?

Any help would be great.