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dlabrosse

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Posts posted by dlabrosse

  1. If you can find two or three SX70 polaroid cameras, (you may be able to rent them

    beleive it or not) you can do Polaroid manipulations with the kids. Put the kids into

    groups � maybe two-four to a camera and give them a pack of film each.

     

    Rubbing the polaroid as it's developing with different objects like spoons or

    chopsticks at different times in the developmet will yield some fun and often

    painterly effects.

     

    And as long as they don't cut the top film on the print, no darkroom and no chemical

    exposure is required.

     

    There are some examples at the links below:

     

    http://www.langara.bc.ca/cs/photography/gallery/student/gallery%202/imagepages/

    gallery230.htm

     

    http://www.langara.bc.ca/cs/photography/gallery/student/image%20pages/

    Image25.htm

     

    http://www.langara.bc.ca/cs/photography/gallery/student/image%20pages/

    Image28.htm

  2. That's right. Take the front element off. Yes it does leave the shutter/aperature

    mechanism exposed. Yes this is normal. Be prepared for the lens to be a little softer

    than it is when both cells are on. Most people use it for B&W and use a coloured filter

    to help minimize chromatic abberation.

  3. When I was getting turned on to photography (in high school too), I got the best education from being given my own bulk roll of B&W. I think I put a couple hundred rolls of B&W and slightly outdated E6 film through my Canon AE1 in a couple of months. The trial and error process taught me more about photography than what I learned in class.

     

    Limit your instruction to basic B&W development and printing techniques and let your friend discover what he needs to know for himself. If he's genuinely interested in photography, it will be a real pleasure for him.

     

    Good Luck,

  4. "Dell Precision 410 & 420. They are able to handle 2Gigs of ram but they do get slow."

     

    New Apple G5 towers support upto 8GB of RAM. Of course the RAM will cost more than the computer. But if you are going to spend $200K on a a Lamda why not another $7K on a computer to drive it?

     

    Regards,

  5. Tim, is this the legislature in Yellowknife? Has it been 10 years already? I visited it shortly after it opened and it does not seem that long ago. Holy Cow, this thread is making me feel old!

     

    Let me guess, you're shooting the main chamber from the observation window above?

     

    Regards,

  6. Well,

     

    Welcome to my place!!!!

     

    Lots of great suggestions already.

     

    Be sure not to miss the Nitobe Japanese Garden on the University of British Columbia campus. Beautiful little traditional japanese garden, quite photgrapher friendly, low admission cost. And while you're on campus be sure to walk the University Endownment land trail system. Or at least parts of it, because to walk it all would take a full day or more. And if you're into that sort of thing, it's also very close to our local nudist beach... called Wreck Beach. Though your camera may not be too welcome there.

     

    I would not bother with the Capilano Suspension Bridge. Very touristy spot, have to pay way too much to get in. There is a similar suspension bridge in Lynn Canyon that is free. Though it is not as long.

     

    Here's the url to the Capilano Suspension Bridge. You can look at it for yourself and make up your own mind...

     

    http://www.capbridge.com/index.html

     

    Please please please please plaeeeese do yourself a favour and drive up Hwy 99 to at least Whistler if not further past Pemberton and up the Duffy Lake Road. It's even worth scouting in the middle of the day to return at golden hour. They are making improvements to the road right now, so expect some delays along the way. The scenery is so nice I'm sure you won't mind. And if you're really into the car tripping thing. Continue on the Duffy Lake Road then come back down the Fraser River canyon (old gold rush trail) back into Vancouver.

     

    If you like to hike you'll be in heaven. I particulaly like the Joffrey Lakes area off the Duffy Lake Road. If you get to the top and go up the marraine you can shoot down onto all three glacier fed green lakes into the valley. Each lake is above the next on the mountain side. The top lake is surrounded by glaciers. Quite stunning

     

    But really, there is great hiking litterally everywhere.

     

    If you are wanting to shoot natural scenes outside then a good place to stop would be Mountain Equipment Co-op (www.mec.ca) - kind of our version of REI - where you can pick-up the most recent walking and hiking guides for the area. You'll never see it all, but this way you'll be able to make informed decisions and actually find the places you're looking for.

     

    Finally, if you are looking for a good pro lab there are several but "The Lab" (www.thelabvancouver.com) & "Gamma Pro Imaging" are the best in town. Both are great dip & dunk labs with 2-3 hr E-6 turnaround and full servies ranging from B&W to digital.

     

    Have Fun!!!!

  7. dg,

     

    As a production artist I spend a good deal of my time answering this question. It's really quite a fluid measure dependant mostly on the viewing distance of the final product. Yesterday, I had a 550 MB scan done from a medium format negative for a trade show booth. The final image after some resizing and touch-up is in the 450 MB area for a final resolution of 100 dpi at 150 inches x 93 inches. For a trade show booth viwed at distances greater than 6 feet, 100 dpi is adequate.

     

    Were I to have a scan made for a billboard it would be around 25 dpi, For a bus shelter, maybe 75 dpi. These numbers are at final size.

     

    I'm not sure how a Lambda machine works but for Lightjet prints I usually like to see a 300 dpi final product, assuming that it is taking the place of a traditional photograph and will be viewed at a similar distance.

     

    For simplicity's sake let's use the following example.If I were to have an 8 x 10 made full frame from my 4 x 5 tranny or neg, I would spec my scan to be made at 200% and 300 dpi.

     

    Hope this helps.

  8. Tim,

     

    Horst Wenzel, Camera Technician

    3996 West 38th Ave.

    Vancouver, BC V6N 3Y6

    Tel: 604.263.5820

    Fax: 604.264.5820

     

    I'd call him first to make sure he can do the job. He works out of his house - believe it or not - but does good quality, high level work. He'll even fabricate new parts for discontinued and old gear. Most of the Vancouver Pros use him to maintain & fix their gear. I think he should be able to do the job.

     

    Good Luck.

  9. 2nd the motion about Horst Wenzel in Vancouver. Very competent guy. However, I had a friend drill mine in an aircraft maintainance workshop. Considering the proliferation of bush planes in the areaI bet there is some such facility in Yellowknife. I bet a case or two of beer might get you pretty far...
  10. Martin,

     

    In terms of image quality - both are excellent lenses.

     

    I bought a 150mm as my first 4×5 lens. Not the best portrait lens for sure as it is slightly wide. The effect would be like shooting a portrait with a 43mm lens on a 35mm camera. Not the most flattering perspective. A 210mm would be much more suitable for portrait work and will still give you a fairly "normal" perspective for other work.

     

    Regards,

  11. Dick,

     

    At these sizes you might not be that successful at finding traditional glass filters that screw on to the front of your big lenses. However, supply houses for the movie industry stock sheets of polarizing material (and many other filter materials) for movie cameras/lights that slide into compendium shades. I'm not sure where where you live, but I know there are such places in Los Angeles CA and Vancouver, BC. This solution is usually much more cost effective than the screw-on type of filters. Especially at larger sizes.

     

    Good Luck!

  12. Stephan,

     

    Like the previous poster, I own the metered chimney finder for my RB. However, if you are affording the effort and expense on MF you should probably invest in a good handheld incident and/or reflected light meter and learn how to use it. This is especially important if you are shooting slide film with it's narrow lattitude.

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