hudspeth

<p>Hi John, I also like the 24-120VR on a D3. To get the best from the lens I used the focus adjustment on the D3 and that works quite well. I would try that before switching to the 18-200.</p>

<p>There is a file available at Microsoft that has sped up NX2 on my system. It seems that when NX2 was written it was matched to a part of Microsoft's application from 2005. I found this at Dpreview from last summer."</p>

<p ><a title="Click to open link in a new browser window" href="http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?familyid=D5692CE4-ADAD-4000-ABFE-64628A267EF0&displaylang=en" target="_blank" title="Click to open link in a new browser window" >http://www.microsoft.com/... ...E4-ADAD-4000-ABFE-64628A267EF0&displaylang=en</a></p>

<p >then scroll down to "what others are downloading" and install #4 and then #3 (that's what I did). Make sure you get both #4 and #3 in that order."</p>

<p >I ran the two files and NX2 cme up in 15 seconds. I then shut it down and brought it back up and the program came up in 6 seconds. The modifications are much quicker on my system after doing this. I use XP home and a 3.06 MHZ processor.</p>

<p >I noticed that the one file is 323 mb and the other is around 6 mb. I have just upgraded my DSL to 1.25MB per second so the download went quick. After finishing all this I checked my download speed and it had dropped to 345KB per second. So I ran "Enter the internet registry" and all was well again.</p>

<p >The 323 mb file has a serial number so you can check it against what you have. This file is to replace what you have.</p>

<p>I agree with Ellis. I use a Canon 500D with an 80-400VR and get 15 -24 inches from the subject as well as zooming capibility and AF and VR. This works well. My 55mm macro gives me very little head room and if I use a strobe I have to bounce it.</p>

<p>Have you considered hyper focus? If you set your f stop and your distance setting on the lens there is a range where best focus is achieved. Do a search on hyperfocal.</p>

<p>Did you try OPTON or OPTRON or OPTERON when you were looking on the net? Your post has all three spellings so I tried them all and "OPTisches werke OberkocheN" (Zeiss) is OPTON. All sorts of companies for OPTRON including fibre optics and telescopes. Computer companies are the only thing listed for OPTERON</p>

<p>If this is a Nikon try downloading through the USB port.</p>

<p>Lil Judd has it right. The NX2 software finds more data than the others its just not conducive to pro speed needs.</p>

<p>The El Carmagne 533 is Carbon fiber and magnesium. The weight is about 3.5 lbs. They claim 27 lbs support. Cost around $325. I think its 26 inches closed and comes with pan and tilt head. Very good with center post down.</p>

<p>Thank you Bjorn, I appreciate your input.<br>

Dan, if tiresome get some sleep.</p>

<p>Ok Jose, so the image created is 1/2 or 1/3 (1:2,1:3) of the original at the film plane or sensor plane regardless of the size of the sensor. 1:1 would be life size. I guess its easier to go back to the 80-400 with a D500 and use the viewfinder masks.<br>

Thanks much for the info. You answered my question.<br>

Hansen, thanks for your input but check the last sentence where I ask "where would one measure it?"<br>

Good night all.</p>

<p>Thanks to everyone for defining ratios. But thats not my question. If I see a one inch long object and I want that object to fill my sensor. so I can get the best detail in an enlargement, what is the method of calculating the size of the extension tube or the length of bellows to obtain that size. If I want to use my 4x5 or my FX how would I determine the proper distance for the extension?</p>

<p>Wayne, why did you bother? The question is about determining the size of the image.</p>

<p>What does 1:2 or 1 to 1 or any of the other ratios refer to?. With a DX sensor or a FX sensor? How does one see if it is one to one and where would one measure it?.</p>

<p>If the light is not enough based on the subject in the picture it seems the Fstop is too high. How abut more details like camera settings and Sb800 settings and distance to subject.</p>

<p>I agree with Bill. My favorite is the 500D Canon close up lens on the end of my 80-400 VR and the D3. I shoot this hand held and can vary the focal length of the lens from 80 to 350mm to change the image size on the sensor. This is done with AF and VR operating using a SB800 and setting the aperture from 6.3 to 11. Best of all I get a working distance of approximately 24 inches. If I want natural light this still works as I set the ISO to auto and try to optimize my position to use the prevailing light.<br>

The problem with the the other lenses like the 55mm MF 2.8 is you use a tripod to focus and the working distance is small. But I do like the results with the 55mm also.</p>

<p>I like the one on the left as there is more detail in the plants behind the bus and the colors are better. But to make this test you would want to check out the shadow detail and the high light detail between the two using the raw files not jpgs.</p>

<p>Ian, were I to take that picture I would use my D3 (3lbs.) and my 80-400 (3lbs.) on top of my Carmagne 533 Carbon fibre tripod (4oz. and holds 27 lbs.) but I would use the lens mount to fasten to the tripod, not the camera mount, since it will balance better. The 80-400 is very sharp at 80-350. It seems to me that part of the problem is the mounting point to the tripod allowing to much weight sticking out in front. By mounting the lens you have half the weight in front and half in back balancing the mass on the tripod.</p>

<p>I use the Nik sound with my Nik-ormat and my Nik-kors as well as my Nik-on D3. I also have been told by a Persian that the country Iran is pronounced Ear-on.</p>

<p>I use the 80-400 with a Canon 500D close up lens and an SB800 on a D3. I can very the image size by zooming and the AF works nicely with the TTL flash providing the exposure. Almost makes it too easy. This can be hand held as the SB800 will stop motion and the VR works also.</p>

<p>I use my 80-400 with a 500D Canon close up lens and that gives me 2 feet plus auto focus. Combined with SB800 and the shots are great about 1 to 1 at 400mm.</p>

<p>I used the 200mm setting but I think this matters only for the metering. The F4 part is the important one. That lens has very nice color.</p>

<p>Try Ebay for adapters. Lots of Chinese stuff there.</p>

<p>Check into hyper focus. With a 35 or 28 you have an enormus depth of field that will work for you.</p>

<p>Here is the lessons provided by Nikon.<br>

http://www.capturenx.com/en/index.html</p>

<p>Ellis, the NX2 ver 2.1.1 has the D3x added to it.</p>