tisbone

<p>Clark,<br>

hypersync does work, and I was able to get pretty clean images (no or little shutter banding) up to 1/2500s with my d300, a set of tt5's and sb-800 at full power, some banding occured at 1/250 and 1/320, maybe there are still some settings to change. A bit slower with sb-900, 600 and 24.<br>

From my 2-day experience, the whole CLS-wannabe system is too complex to flawlessly work with and still needs much firmware improvement, but it's definitely worth getting a flex or mini to hyperync with the older PW's.</p>

 

<p>hi, I wonder if any of you has taken a D90 apart (IR conversion for example)<br>

I'd like to know how thick is the original hot mirror filter and the dust reduction filter (or the replacements you can buy at some conversion places).<br>

thanks</p>

Steve - I don't say the quality is worse than tamron's (I don't really know, haven't tested it myself). It's just the aperture that makes it much worse</p>

<p>Robert - I definitely will.. this is out of the question :)

I decided to add a little to the whole deal and go for Tamron 17-50/2.8 + D300. I think this will sum up in the best performance upgrade - I'll have a faster, less noisy body and a faster lens, the sharpness difference between nikkor and tamron isn't worth the price difference, and I don't expect to kill the lens physically real fast.. I tend to try to care for them ;)

Steve - I actually agree with Kevin Swan.</p>

<p>starting a business like this, trying to be serious, without any experience or knowing the equipment is what makes me sad.. I'm perfectly aware of my and my gear's possibilities and limitations and I'm actually trying to beat a few of those "hey,-how-about-I-start-taking-pictures-and-charge-people-for-it"-photographers out of the market.. I'm amazed how many of them are out there and how crappy pictures they produce as people's only memory of an important day. And the thing is, that I see a difference between pictures taken with 18-70 and 17-55, and I have to work more on denoising/sharpening to get it to my liking..</P>

<p>p.s. I don't want to blow MY money :) There's a business initiative support program I can get some money from and I'll have to spend it on gear needed to start my own business :)</P>

<p>and I can't let you say that about D70 ;) I just really love this camera.. it just gets better these days

<p>thanks for the big response! I didn't want to write too much, so I narrowed the question to what bothers me. I do have a backup body (d50 that will be replaced by d80, aside to my d70-IR), and do have/will get enough strobes, a 70-200vr and a fast prime.. </P>

<p>And I plan (dream of..?) eventually upgrading to D3 (or whatever flagship by that time) as my profit flows... </P>

<p>Of course, I don't plan to not use flash at all, but there's usually not enough flash setup possibility at churches to get a decent shot, and on-camera, unbounced flash is just not what one hires a 'real' photographer for. </P>

<p>I tried out both (17-55 and d300) today and it seems that the lens is a more urgent upgrade.. I'll have to take a closer look at the tamron, I don't remember knowing about this lens.. maybe I can afford that and d300 :) </P>

<p>It was good to know your opinions anyway. thanks again!

did you have the built in flash set to manual?? if it's in other mode, the slave might flash with the built-in's preflashes.. setting both to manual should work

hi, I'm looking for a piece of advice - I'm going pro and have a limited budget

to spend on gear. I have a d200 and 18-70dx + tamron 28-75/2.8 for the wide to

mid range. I can afford either a d300 body or a 17-55/2.8 lens. What do you

guys suggest to get (I mainly look at shooting available light weddings and

general journalism and need lower noise+good sharpness) - will a brighter/

sharper wide lens or a less noisy body and active d-lighting do better? Anyone

got any experience with such setup? Maybe you can recommend another, similarily

priced zoom lens (18mm or wider)? Thanks!

I'd like to know how the two lenses compare in terms of quality and

compatibility.. (to be used primarily on a D50 and secondarily on a D200)

Opinions/links will be apprecciadted.

hi. I'm trying to figure out the cost of fixing an 80-200/2.8 ed-if lens, that

back focuses only over 135mm. (is this as easily fixed as 'normal' back

focusing? it's probably some mechanical failure, not just miscalibration..) I

wonder if anyone had a similar thing fixed either by nikon or some other

service. I need to know the cost to decide wheather I want to return it or not

- the eBay seller is willing to give me a refund, but it also takes a lot of

trust to just send it back and wait for the money...

I posted a similar thread before, but didn't have much luck with the replies..

And yes, I've tested it on several bodies.

I'd apprecciate your help.

I did.

hi, I got an 80-200/2.8 ED-IF (the two-ring one) on ebay and it does back focus

at 135mm-200mm.. First question is - does it happen quite often that a lens

back focuses only at certain focal lenghts?

I'd also like to know how much time and my money (no warranty) it usually takes

for Nikon and/or the other authorized services to fix it.

If you have any experience on that, please let me know. thanks

hi. I just got a d200, and planning to get a 17-50/2.8 tamron. I know the older

tamrons might have some software incompatibilities, but am curious if anyone

has had any problems with this new model. post your opinion here whether you

have good or bad experience with this combo. thanks!

on the other forum people say they have it on their d70's and d50's.. that's weird. I've used a d70 and d50 a lot for about 4 years and never noticed it, but I recently saw it on my friend's d80 the first time I looked through the vf :)

My "Tamron 28-75/2.8 XR Di" is tack sharp. And it's a really cheap lens. John might have had an earlier version of it. Most people that use this lens love it

fill flash might have helped a lot

I've been using 8 MONSTER POWER rechargables for about 4 years now in many cameras, sb-600 and other equipment and don't really see any downgrade.. but I'm not sure they still make them. couldn't find any on ebay lately.

my friend got a set of GP's for his sb-800 a month ago and one died already

I just put a sb-800 on my d70 and tried to make it not flash.. the only way it won't flash is when the flash is in the remote mode or you set it to 'off' in the very last settimgs box. but this seems not to be a problem if it only won't flash SOMETIMES. try checking if the hot shoe connectors are clean and make sure you lock it with the lever when you put it on.. otherwise, check other batteries or take it to the store and see other cameras/flashes, as Len said. good luck

I can recommend sigma 10-20 for the city and landscapes. a full-frame fisheye would be fun for the two, and for weddings as well (I wouldn't shoot people with a 'straight' ultra-wide lens, they look much better fisheyed)

as for a budget wedding all-rounder, the tamron 28-75/2.8 xr di is fast and damn sharp for its price, just the wide end is a bit too long indoors.. do you already have a good flash? I think on weddings, you can get along with some cheaper or darker lens, but you'll definitely need a good flash or two, especially having a great remote trigger built in your d200

I read some about the sigma flashes, and if I got it right, they only work wirelessly in TTL mode if you use another SIGMA flash as a commander.. but, as far as I know, you can still trigger it in manual mode, with your in-camera flash set to manual, too (reacts to a single flash) you might want to research that, sigmas offer top options and power, for good value

as far as I know, if your shutter dies, the mirror would still operate normally. and I've read a few threads about d70's shutter life - in most cases they died "well over 100 000 actuations" (120k or so), so the d200 system doesn't sound like much improvement..

my d70 turned 50k last week and I'm starting to look for a 'younger' used one to replace it, just in case ;)

I've had a couple "err"'s, but taking the battery out helped. never had a mirror lock problem, so can't help you on that. hope you can get it back to order. good luck!

sb-400 can be tilted up to 90 degrees and bounced!

iTTL is supposed to make you not worry about the flash output regardless of the changing subject distance and ambient light conditions. it takes this all into account and adjusts the output power accordingly to get the exposure right. They say it's the best flash technology among all camera manufacturers. I sometimes have to use flash compensation anyway, but iTTL works great with my sb-600..

wireless is really much fun, but you have to pay a lot more for that.. I think, with bounce ability and iTTL, the sb-400 is the best you can get for $100

is there much more advantage over d200's built-in flash as a commander apart from the extra focus assist?

are you sure that's wide enough for you with the 1.5x crop?

If I think of a quality wide angle, I think of the nikkor 20mm/f2.8, which by the way, is still not quite wide enough for me..

I'm totally not familiar with Zeisses, does it work with the d80 automatics or is it full manual?

don't know 'bout Ryanair, but on some 'bigger' airlines, I never had problems with extra hand luggage (max size backpack + small camera bag + tripod + a 'grocery bag').. and I never seen people having problems with theirs.

Another way is to share it with someone else, who has little carry-on, just to pass the control..