frank_major

<p>You could look on the dyxum.com website. There are extensive reviews there by actual users.</p>

<p>I don't shoot studio, so my opinion won't have the weight of those who do, but if you can get one of the Leaf Aptus backs and a nice range of lenses for under your price range why not go that route? The sensor size is at least 2.7x a FF dSLR and lenses for the Mamiya are certainly "professional grade". </p>

<p>For social documentary work, something fast and flexible seems most suitable. To me with your A99 you're getting a FF camera with well-regarded capabilities. I'd ensure the lenses I have in front of that sensor are top quality (there are a number of Carl Zeiss lenses offered for the Minolta/Sony Alpha mount).</p>

 

<p>I love my RB67 Pro-S - it's my favorite film camera. I like taking it everywhere and photographing whatever comes to mind when I have free time. Handheld wasn't a problem in my opinion as I'm fairly steady.</p>

<p>However, one evening I was in Baden, Austria (south of Vienna) and wanted to take a photo of this lovely, large clock next to a paddle-boat rental facility. The problem was that it was too dark and ultimately my braced, handheld image (while a nice composition and developing) was nowhere near as sharp as the image I had in my mind. I was really disappointed and this permanently changed my opinion about using a tripod.</p>

<p>Nowadays I simply bring along my (purchased subsequent to that trip) Feisol CT-3342 carbon-fiber tripod. Anytime I see something worth photographing it's worth my time to use a tripod. </p>

<p>Depends on your shooting style and choice of subject (s). I chose an RB67 Pro-S because of;</p>

<p>1) superb quality (optically and mechanical reliability)<br>

2) versatility/modularity I can change lenses, change backs MID-ROLL and use an entirely different film <br>

3) the <strong><em>R</em></strong>evolving <em><strong>B</strong></em>ack - I can shoot landcape OR portrait and not move the entire camera<br>

4) spare components are readily available<br>

5) reasonably inexpensive<br>

6) I like the way the RB67 Pro-S handles and how I slow down using it</p>

<p>So, these are the primary reasons I chose the RB67. YMMV.</p>

<p>Congrats Marc!<br>

My RB67 Pro-S is my fav camera as well. There's no replacement for displacement! The huge 6x7 negative is a joy to work with and roll-film is sooo easy as well. </p>

<p>The large-format folks may differ in their definition of what a large negative is, but for pure simplicity, ease of use (shooting and developing) and film choices 6x7 is the king!</p>

<p>Nice scan btw - well done. What lens did you use? I'd guess 127mm?</p>

<p>Here's the problem with the 220 magazines - lack of b&w film and very limited color film availability. </p>

<p>I'm not sure if 120 film can be used in the Mamiya 645 1000s 220 magazines, but that could be a possibility. However, it prompts asking a technical question to those here who are experienced with your camera.</p>

<p>Hi Christopher - </p>

<p>Well, how are you getting along with your new-to-you RB67 Pro-S?</p>

<p>I've found that buying a 120 back automatically triggers a seal replacement project. It's not too difficult of a task and you're rewarded with a confidence in your excellent and fully-functional equipment. As paul Ron mentioned, this is an amazing Community for any area of help you may need with your camera and paul Ron himself is a professional Tech so you've got expert help on-tap!</p>

<p>I hope you're enjoying your RB67 Pro-S. I know I thoroughly enjoy mine - it's my favorite camera by a good margin.</p>

<p>Congrats on your RB67!!! It's my favorite camera too.</p>

<p>My 9-yr old *loves* my RB67 Pro-S - it's her favorite camera of all those in my stable. It's followed closely by my Minolta Autocord TLR, so I'm seeing a tendency toward WLF view-screens. However, the RB67 reigns supreme - as it should!!!</p>

<p>I hope the kinks in your RB67 are easily worked out. I tend toward sending things in for a CLA if they have a glitch of any sort, but not after a good play with 'em!</p>

<p>Not to be too far off topic, but with *any* camera made in the 20th century (and particularly so with those made in the 50's) a CLA is pretty much required.</p>

<p>How many digi cameras will be functioning in 60 years? How about a car - any car - 60 years from now? All of these things need maintenance and with an all-mechanical camera being a precision device such as it is, this requirement is even more important.</p>

<p>Simply send your camera in for a service and these problems will be cleared away. You'll be set for another 10 years (at least!) of excellent service.</p>

<p>There are great lenses in both camps - finding the focal length/FOV that accomplishes your imaging is much more important than determining which lens mount. Find out what you want to shoot and choose a mount that offers what you need.</p>

<p>THanks Randy Jay!!!</p>

<p>I'll be opening up the bottom plate as soon as it arrives (and i have a play-about to check things over) and see if i can't resolve the matter from down below.</p>

<p>I'm reticent to remove that lock-screw collar on the shutter release button as i don't have the appropriate tool and don't want to scratch the mirror finish, but if it fixes the problem then i'm all for it.... I'd prefer not to have to open the top plate either, but again if i'm assured of resolving the problem i'm OK with it.</p>

<p>Thanks again!!!</p>

<p>Robert - that is a HUGE bummer! Talk about bad timing..... though there's rarely a "good" time for a camera failure. </p>

<p>My XE-7 is supposed to arrive to me Saturday, October 20 and i'll know then what the next step is.</p>

<p>THanks to all!</p>

 

<p>I shoot an RB67 Pro-S and having seen large images taken with the 110mm f2.8 i really, really wish it would work on my RB.</p>

<p>Otherwise, any of the Mamiya APO lenses would be on my short-list. Honestly, lens selection depends mostly on your choice of subject and/or how you prefer your subject to look (ie - common landscape lenses tend to be wide 50mm/65mm, but there are folks who use tele's for landscape with good result).</p>

<p>Hi John - I've wanted a A900 for a looonnnnng time, but simply can't justify it for now (i'm still shooting my KM7D!!!!) and use *only* Minolta Maxxum lenses (except my Sigma 15-30mm f3.5 EX DG).</p>

<p>I'm intrigued by your observation that the XE is the smoothest camera you know given that you have an XD-11. I have an XD-11 also and it's remarkably smooth as well.... </p>

<p>Thanks John Seaman - that's a very hopeful response! Just a slight bit of high-viscosity oil in the right place - i hope that's all it takes!</p>

<p>As to this being my last 35mm camera purchase, yes, with a very high likelihood. For my film shooting these days i *strongly* prefer my Mamiya RB67 Pro-S medium format camera. If i'm going to take the time to shoot film, i really like the extra film "real estate" that 6x7cm negative holds.</p>

<p>However, i am a Minolta nut (I also have a Minolta Autocord 6x6cm format TLR camera w/Seikosha MX shutter - 1956 production year) and the XE-7 has the best aspects of my beloved SRT202 (nice size frame, match-needle metering) and my "smooth as butter" XD-11.</p>

<p>I've no love at all for range-finders and in my experience, there are no other SLR's i want (i've had/used almost every Minolta SR mount camera model and use only Minolta MC or MD lenses so no new brand adoption for me).</p>

<p>Thanks Michael!</p>

<p>I'm hoping this is the case with mine. Do you recall if the advance lever return springs were accessible through the bottom plate? Otherwise i'll have to remove the top plate and i'm less inclined to do this with an electronic camera.</p>

<p>Thanks !!!</p>

<p>frank</p>

<p>Thanks Craig - I fully appreciate your reticence in sending a camera out for CLA - it's a time and money "drain" at the same time there are sooo many similar cameras seemingly the same or in "better" condition. Unfortunately, used cameras are like used cars - usually there's something wrong with both..... I have a pristine XD-5 that needs the film take-up spool replaced (i even have the hard-to-find replacement part) and a late-model, pristine SRT202 with a locked up advance/self-timer/shutter. They both need to go to see John Titterington (my Minolta Technician of choice - he's TOP NOTCH), but even with a great price on the full-service (was $75 per camera the last time i sent something in), it's a good bit of $ to lay out - even though i'm assured of years of excellent operation.</p>

<p>I bought my first SRT202 from John in 2005 for $125 - seemingly a high price. However, that camera has served flawlessly in some extreme conditions and is my "go-to" 35mm camera despite having an excellent XD-11 to use (again, CLA'ed by John). </p>

<p>Thanks Perry N - these are *great* insights. Yea, I know a CLA is generally the final, absolute solution to camera problems. ;-) As described in the auction, this particular camera doesn't have electronic problems (at least as described....) just a reluctant-to-return advance lever. I'm hopeful there aren't any latent problems related to the electronics though, but from many accounts even these can be *somewhat easily* repaired. I hopeful.....</p>

<p>If other readers have comments, please include your experiences/thoughts/opinions !!!!</p>

<p>Hi Michael,</p>

<p>OK, i know this is a long-dead thread, but.........</p>

<p>So, i just bought an XE-7 in EXC+ cosmetic condition, but reported as having a "sticky film advance lever". Is this similar to the problem you experienced? When you disassembled your XE-7 did you remove the top, bottom or both plates?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Hi Craig - <br>

What was the solution to your XE-7's problem?</p>

<p>Thanks John - <br>

I'm thinking a bit of film may have found it's way down into the film advance gear-train/sprockets in the bottom.... crossing fingers for a simple solution!!!!</p>

<p>a Minolta XE-7 from that big auction site!!!! Total price was $35.35 and it looks to be, cosmetically, EXCELLENT!!! Add in the new seals and some very light surface (not through the paint) scratches on the bottom plate and NO BRASSING anywhere - for $35.35 - i think i got a deal!!!! <br /><br />I've been blathering on about an XE-7 for some time and finally found a great deal on one. <br /><br />The only reservation i have is that "the advance lever sticks forward most of the time when its cocked". This seems to me like a fairly small problem. The auction also mentioned "when you tap it forward several times it frees up & returns" so i'm hopeful it's only some small bits of broken film that need to be cleaned out, but any insight from fellow Minoltians would be super helpful....<br /><br />I have a great stable of Minolta MC/MD Rokkor/Rokkor-X lenses to partner this camera with as well as *several* SRT and XD series cameras. This really is the last 35mm camera i'll buy and am hopeful the problem is easily sorted without having to send it off to John Titterington. Yes, said that before and then came several XD's in various models, but since i'm really only into SLR's and i've had an example from about every other Minolta SLR series, i'm pretty sure this is gonna be the last 35mm.<br /><br />Thanks in advance!!!!</p>

<p>Great job shopping dodi!!! It looks like *you* got much more than you paid - patience pays BIG dividends - well done.</p>

<p>I've had more than one occassion where i wish i had a 90mm. I think the pair will serve you well.</p>

<p>Welcome to the Mamiya RB67 Club!!!</p>

<p>I've re-covered a couple 35mm SLR cameras and used the "Purel Method" each time with absolutely no problems. I *love* their GripTac (self-adhesive) product - it's amazing and fits my needs very well.</p>

<p>I also re-covered a Minolta Autocord (Seikosha MX non-light-metered variant ~1956) - again using the "Purel Method". However, i was very specific and supplied the exact model-year/variant i have and the kit fit perfectly in every way. In fact, it went from a pretty sad, shabby looking camera (with excellent lenses/metal surfaces) to something that looks quite awesome.</p>

<p>Hi John -<br>

I don't have the 3441T or 3442 for direct comparison, but i do have a 3342 and it's awesome. I also travel a good bit and it's still pretty compact (especially since i can put it in my checked bag with no problem).</p>

<p>Yep, the spider is good sized and i don't have a 3341 or3441T to compare it to, but it's by no means cumbersome.</p>

<p>There aren't alot of folks posting about their experiences w/their Feisol 'pods, but i *love* mine.</p>

<p>I bought the Feisol CT-3342 here: <br>

<a href="http://reallybigcameras.com/Feisol/Tournament_Class.htm">http://reallybigcameras.com/Feisol/Tournament_Class.htm</a></p>

<p>this Fall and use it w/my Mamiya RB67 Pro-S for my hiking and travel (essentially *everything* for me!!!).</p>

<p>It's simply amazing - especially for the price tag. I use it in conjunction with a Manfrotto 496-rc2 ballhead which is OK for now, one day i'd like to upgrade to a Really Right Stuff BH-40 for my 'light-weight' kit.</p>