cwb_.vt

Hello,

Recently purchase Horseman 617 with 90MM. Wonderful Instrument.

All my previous experience has been with 35MM and MF TTL meters and

focus (Spotmatic, FM2T, M's, R's, 67II, D2X). Enthusiastic amateur,

shooting static landscapes (main subject tends to be 50 plus feet away,

Vermont things, barns, hills, streams, etc..95% of time on tripod). With

6x17, always on tripod (slide film and B/W).

Usually I am able to use Thom Hogans charts for Hyperfocal distance or

from DOFmaster.com or the lens (I know this stuff is on some lens, but I

always forget how to work it...if may be on this lens, but I may not know

how to read it..this is my fist LF lens). But with this camera, I am not able

to really find charts. I tend to shoot at F16 to F22 only because they are

not near the extreme and I look for "good" DOF in my landscape

panoramas. To get "good DOF", I have just been setting the focus at 15 to

30 feet as the panarama may "start" at 50 feet or so. Although still

making the big mistakes as I learn this camera, my DOF results have

been fine and I could go on shooting like this. Questions...

1) I there a set of charts that I could use that I could say at F16, the

hyperfocal for this lens is "x feet", at F22 it is "y feet"...is this somewhere or

am I making it too complicated?

2) At F16 and F22, and the center ND filter and perhaps a polarizer, my

exposures as measured on light meter may exceed one second. So, I

count and hold the cable release open. Is there a tool or timer that is

more exacting? Something I can attach to the release and set it at say 2

seconds and I will be open for two seconds (set to B). I searched on

B&H and found only those times that lag the shutter so you can run and

get in the photo.

3) This is the first time I have used a hand held light meter. Since it is

summer and most of the images have some sort of green (my 18%) in

them, I measure this and add some filter adjustments and bracket. I am

getting better. With only 4 images per roll, I would like to get to two "trys"

per image. But as the seasons change, the Green (or my 18% gray) will

go away....I guess this question really boils down to how do you effectively

use the zone system...do you always search for some 18% gray, or do you

look for other zones and adjust...or is it just experience....I do not have the

confidence that I could measure and take an image of a sunset with the

6x17 and a handheld....where is the 18%?....how do you measure the

morning light and mist on the pond?...how do you measure the sunset

over the lake?....

I have ready many books and I "think" I understand, I am just not sure how

to apply when my 18% green is gone.

thank you for your time on my behalf

Chris

I shoot for fun, not professional...Spotmatic, FM2T, F6, R9, M4,

and D2X ..just put in black and white darkroom and I am having a

ball......most of my stuff is landscapes and nature, mostly on

tripod for technical and discipline reasons....1-2-3 second

exposures in AM or of water, or in the PM are not out of the

ordinary (and other variations of exposures that demand a

tripod).....I do day hikes and it appears one can carry this stuff as

per the web images I have seen....my tripod is Gitzo 1327 , rated

to hold a truck.......would like to move up to MF black and white

both in camera and darkroom, no real reason other than the

hobby expands. Before I buy this MF camera, just need a logic

check

I have spent about a week reading the various posts and reviews

and this is what "I think I know"...

1) There are lots of 645 choices at various new/used investment

levels and for my purposes and the general market price levels I

would be well served with Pentax, Contax or a Mamiya. That is, I

have not read any substantial problems inherent with these

systems given my shooting style.... I only toss out the Hassy stuff

cause I do not like the square....I just think in rectangles, stupid

but that is me.....the only "drawback" seems to be the size of the

negative....sort of a "small MF"...

2) So, if one looks at the 6x7 size (perhaps a "true MF"), there is

the Pentax 67 and a Mamiya 7II.....I read that the SLR mechanics

(Mirror) of the Pentax can be an issue for the longer exposures (I

do these)...so I lean toward the Mamiya 7II as it is a rangefinder

and seems to have rather strong follwings and positive views

from forum folks....

So, I think I would lean to the Mamiya 7II system.....in advance, I

thank you for your time and recommendations on my

behalf...Chris

Thank you....as you can probably tell, my desires are born of

emotion, and some from practicality (although tis not an even

split)....emotion demands a Lieca as derived from the memories

of time with my grandfather and father.....with all the other stuff I

own, an F6 would make the most "sense".....why new, well I just

like virgin stuff so the wear reflects my memories (not practical I

know, but I have been waiting a long time for this and it really

goes back to that "feeling of consequense")...I would love MF, but

I know nothing about this stuff, and -- really the only practical

thought as I ponder this purchase -- my darkroom contains a Ic

and V35....nothing for MF....I think it will be a new MP with the

50MM...thank you to all

Hello,

Less than a year ago I purchased the new R9 camera with the

35-70 lens. I bought it too fast without proper pondering, it is

really not what I wanted (too electric)....so I am going to sell it and

get an M....I would ask for advice regarding which one -- per my

understanding of the offerings.....I just remember my

grandfathers M? and the emotional and consequential feeling

one has when holding the camera (he and my father used to let

me use it 20 years ago)...and everything was always sharp...any

way...as I look at the current Leica offerings, I want to be sure I

understand the differences.... of note... for black and white and

color slides I have used mainly a Honeywell Spotmatic and a

Nikon FM2T....I really like just the "manualness" of these

cameras...)....it is half the fun understanding how the camera

interprets the light....(yeah, I got sidetracked with a D2X for a bit,

but I am almost done with my darkroom).....I shoot for fun,

landscapes and nature..mostly on tripod and mostly with a 50MM

lens (I live in Vermont)...I think I should look at the MP

0.72....because....

The M7's seem to have the type of electronic stuff I would rather

not have, great camera, just more than I want...correct?

The MP's seem to be what I am after, all manual with only the

meter demanding power...correct?

MP 3 seems to be a special edition camera, same as MP but

with a premium price

I would initially put a 50MM lens on the camera, that is what I do

for 80% of my shooting.

And I guess I would look at the 0.72 viewfinder as this is the

"normal" one..right?...one other question, I often take water shots

(with D2X) that demand 2-3 second exposures, can you do that

with this camera?...it seems that it only goes to 1 second...

In advance, thank you for your comments....Chris

Hello...been surfing these pages and building a b/w darkroom

for the last year....just got a V35 (with 40mm lens)....and I have a

few questions...

1) The V35 arrived with shippping damage....the left side where

the b/w module goes in was bent in...I was able to pull back out

without much difficulty, but I am not sure about all the alignment

of the stuff ....the silver box, where the light make the right angle

dwonward bend, may be out of alignemnt?....everything looks ok,

but I wonder about the light path...how would I know if it is out of

alignement or even it should be in alignment?

2) After I conquer the above, I measure the height of my easel

and use the post crank to get the numbers on the bottom of the

post to match this hieghts?...this is the course focus

adjustment....then I put neg in and paper in easel and I use a

focus mirror and the same crank to make fine focus

adjustments...then all should be okay, right?

3) I will need a new lamp...I have a book that says the old lamp is

a Phililps 6604...but the lamp I should use is a Philips 13139

and this lamp requires an adaptor...is this correct and where do I

pursue....

thank you for your time on my behalf...Chris