michael_ziegler2

<p>Thanks Bob and others. I have tried and returned an adaptor that does just mechanically couple the EOS to my V1. Problem is that unless the V1 sees a lens is attached, it wont allow a shutter release. Nikon does make a mount for their lenses to work on the V1. I have a dozen EOS lenses and refuse to buy a Nikon lens and adaptor for this purpose. Guess I'll just have to wait and see.</p>

<p>I am looking for an adaptor to use my Canon EOS lenses with a Nikon V1 camera. <br>

Anyone have knowledge of availability?</p>

<p>I have bought at least 10 new canon lenses and never had a problem. I am on my 3rd body (all upgrades) and aside from engineering mods, the qc has been fine. I believe their QC is right on the money. To rant on one issue seems ridiculous, especially not knowing if it happened in outside shipping.</p>

<p>I use the Lowepro Toploader 75AW for my 1D MK3 with a 70-200 lens attached (lens hood reversed)</p>

<p>Try removing the lithium backup battery (CR2016) and reinstall it or just replace it. You can find the instructions on page 41 of the manual. That should reset the camera.</p>

<p>Have you considered the 300 4.0 L IS USM? It is a terrific lens which cost much less than the 2.8. Is the 1 stop loss important?</p>

 

<p>I only use a CP or a graduated ND filter. Never use a UV filter as it detracts from the lens.</p>

<p>Michael, you are right. I tried the camera setting with a 220EX which doesn't have the function built in and the camera setting forced it into 2nd curtain. However, I did not see a clear explanation in the manual.<br>

Thanks for your input.</p>

 

<p>I set my shutter curtain sync (custom function C.Fn II -5) to 2nd Curtain (number 2) and find this will not drive that action on my 580EX II. To use 2nd curtain I had to set it on the flash which does work even if the camera is set to 1st curtain.<br>

Is this normal? If so, what is the purpose of this custom function.<br>

I tried the same exercise on my 5D and got the same results.</p>

<p>I did try it, and it didn't do the end of tv flash</p>

<p>I set up my menu option for second curtain and attached a 580 EX2. I found that the flash fired at the start of a 5 sec exposure and not at the end of the exposure, therefore second curtain failed. I then investigated the 580 manual and found that it had to be set up for 2nd curtain by pressing the H/>> button.<br>

My question is what's the purpose of setting the camera menu for 2nd, since setting the flash for 2nd with the camera set for 1st yields 2nd curtain?</p>

<p>Your best bet would be to set the camera on manual with a shutter speed of at least 1/125 but less than your sync speed. Set the appropriate f stop and/or ISO to give proper exposure with out the flash. THEN, turn on the flash and take your picture using flash comp as required.<br>

What you were seeing was ghosting usually caused by shutter speeds that are too slow to stop the motion.</p>

<p>Minute, I trhink the ETTL varies the power automatically.</p>

<p>I am now thinking that the minimum is caused by the angle of the light path of the flash v.s. the angle of coverage by the lens being used.</p>

<p>I would try taking some pictrures throughout its range of f stops.</p>

<p>Thanks guys for the input. I did believe what you both said was correct. However, I had not seen any literature from Canon supporting that conclusion and felt I needed some corroboration.</p>

<p>Normally the bars on the back of the flash (which indicate the effective distance range) start from the far left and end at the right side of the display. There are some combinations of ISO lens mm setting and aperture where the bars start in the middle of the display and end at the right.<br>

How is this display to be interpreted?</p>

 

<p>Your only concern should be the weight of all that you are carrying. I try to be selective about what equipment to take with the realization that transporting heavy stuff is a major pain. I try to take only 2 or 3 lenses, a light tripod or mono and a small flash just for outdoor fill (since you usually can't use a flash in museums anyway). Make sure you take a fast lens and a good range zoom. I have been taking my 1Dmk3, 24-105 f/4, 50 f/1.2 and sometimes my fisheye (depending upon what I expect to shoot). For a flash I take the 220ex.<br>

Good luck</p>

 

<p>Just shoot a roll of film and have it developed. See what results you get. You may be pleasantly surprised.</p>

<p>What is your budget? What lenses do you own? What film camera are you using?<br>

We need some help to help you.</p>

 

<p>I bought one a few months ago and it DID come with a collar. I also use the 1.4 extender with excellent results on my 1Dmk3.</p>

<p>If you plan to hand hold the shot, IS is valuable with a lens of that magnification.</p>

<p>Nadine,<br>

"Also be aware that ETTL has two metering modes--evaluative and averaging. Evaluative employs automatic fill flash reduction, averaging doesn't. However, the main problem, I suspect is still what I mentioned above."<br>

Is the flash mode picked up from the camera setting or set up independently in the flash unit?</p>

 

<p>I went all over Europe with my 24-105. The IS helps greatly, especially in low light with the 5D if you boost up the ISO. You will find that lens to be very versatile. It is really not heavy on the 5D, I also used it with my 1D3 which makes the package much heavier but doable carrying around all day.</p>

<p>The Mk 3 also has two storage slots which usually are set up for raw on the CF and jpeg on the SD card. Never have to wory about loosing images. The battery charge just lasts and lasts, if that is important to you. I like the speed of the auto focus. Do a search for the white paper on the Mk3. There is probably one available for the 5D Mk2 also.<br>

I have the 5D Mk1 and the 1DMk3. I am always shooting with the Mk3, I like the feel of it although it is heavier than the 5D w/o the grip.</p>