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richard_s.

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Posts posted by richard_s.

  1. Kannan,<br>

    <br>

    16bit linear files of the Dimage 5400 are raw data without balanced

    white-point. Simply applying a gamma correction of 2.2 will introduce

    severe and difficult to remove colour casts. <br>

    <br>

    I recommend to use a appropriate colour profile for colour conversion:<br>

    <br>

    1. Assign, embed a  fitting colour profile to the untagged

    16bit linear scan, Minolta supplies the profile MLTF5400p.icc

    “Minolta DiMAGE Scan Elite 5400 (Posi Linear)”. Do

    not  use the “Convert to” option.<br>

    <br>

    You image will now look very different on the monitor, but the data of

    your image has not changed! The image editing program just interprets

    it in different way.<br>

    Your image might look much better, but is still not internal

    white-balanced. So it is better to convert it to a white-point balanced

    colour space, before making any large colour or contrast adjustments.<br>

    <br>

    2. I recommend to convert it to a wide gamut colour-space, like

    “Ekta Space PS 5, J. Holmes.icm”, to preserve the

    full range of colours. <br>

    <br>

    3. When finished, you might convert it to a colour-space suitable for

    your output device like “SRGB” for web-display.<br>

    <br>

    I did just that with your sample image. Of course colour-space

    conversion on 8bit JPEG files delivers not the best result.<br>

    <br>

    You might notice, he Minolta supplied generic colour  profile

    MLTF5400p.icc “Minolta DiMAGE Scan Elite 5400 (Posi

    Linear)” introduces a slight magenta cast.<br>

    <br>

    Therefore, I have profiled my scanner for several sorts of slide film,

    with better results (I hope so). I used my “Velvia

    50” profile on your image without a magenta colour cast.<br><div>00MlMU-38843184.thumb.jpg.ace66468148862514019fc8db29c6ee7.jpg</div>

  2. Skip, if your car stops working and gets a new engine, are then all

    cars (same model) defective?<br>

    <br>

    Olympus repaired OM-4 with OM-4Ti circuits because OM-4 circuits were

    no longer available.<br>

    <br>

    I have an working OM-4 with original circuit (there was only

    one version), still works as advertised. There is nothing indicating an

    systematic flaw in the OM-4 circuit.<br>

    <br>

    Paul, the design flaw,  the 'flash-ready' light draining the

    camera battery, <b>was a problem of  the first samples

    of the OM-2SP</b>. It was solved by rerouting the power source of

    the flash-ready LED. Affected early models could (still can) be fixed

    by competent camera technicians.

  3. According to Huber a set of fresh batteries should theoretical last for

    400 films!<br>

    In practice, long exposure times, self timer, finder illumination draws

    a lot of current.<br>

    <br>

    My experience was that a set of  fresh batteries was good

    enough for dozens of films, shoot in a time span of 1-2 month <br>

    <br>

    Like all modern cameras, the OM-4 has no power off switch,

    it´s in permanent stand-by mode. Stand-by mode in the OM-4

    will drain a set of fresh batteries in 6 month, without taking single

    pictures. An OM-4Ti has less stand-by mode consumption, but in normal

    operation there is no difference in battery life.<br>

    <br>

    With Olympus OM cameras only use name brand quality silver-oxide

    batteries, SR44, V76, 357 and equivalent. Cells from Varta, Renata, and

    Duracell are know to be good.<br>

    <br>

    Never ever use 3V lithium button cells, or cheap no-name silver-oxide

    cell from China; your OM will be very unreliable with those cells. I

    had cheap Chinese made no-name silver-oxide cells were 2/3 of them

    started to leak while still in the package.<br>

    <br>

    Don´t use alkaline button cells LR44, they will not last.

    Cells are cheap but this is none the less a very uneconomical solution.<br>

    <br>

    If your OM acts funny, show wrong exposure meter reading, gives false

    exposure, first replace the battery pair with know good ones, then

    check if the problem persists.

  4. Colour negative film has an incredible high dynamic range, large exposure latitude out of the box.

     

    For improved colour quality in shadows and highlight, bracketing with 4 stop difference might be OK.

     

    BTW better bracket slide film with only a 2-3 stop difference, otherwise you might get no usable result.

  5. Magnus, stop your imputations!<br>

    <br>

    <i>Are you implying that the above groups of people should stay

    put where YOU think they belong, i.e. outside of Europe or Germany? If

    so, I think you are a Leica user for reasons other than its

    build/manufacturing quality... </i><br>

    <br>

    Are you logical challenged?<br>

    <br>

    Are you denying that the origin of the Jews is in the Middle East and

    that of the Gypsies is India?<br>

    <br>

    I´m not aware that Jews or Gypsies were kidnapped to come to

    Europe.<br>

    So why should Jews or Gypsies come to Europe or Germany if they have

    "problems with Europeans" (the original poster used the racist slur "<i>master

    races</i>").<br>

    <br>

    <i>Nuff said.</i><br>

    <br>

    Ahh,  Magnus don´t drink too much and

    don´t beat your wife and children so hard.

  6. Vic, the original poster asked for places to visit (and probably to

    photograph) while in Berlin.<br>

    <ol>

    <li>The <i>"</i>Sun<i>" </i>is a

    British Newspaper (know for its xenophobia and chauvinism) published in

    London, not a German one; nothing to

    photograph here.</li>

    <li>Croatia is a independent nation, Berlin is the capitol of

    Germany not Croatia. So nothing to photograph here either</li>

    <li>There is no <i>"holocaust museum"</i> in

    Berlin, but in Washington. Wrong side of the Atlantic.</li>

    </ol>

    My impression is, you tried to place some cheap

    shoots

    against Germany and had no interest in helping the original poster.<br>

    <br>

    <i>"18th/19th century European pseudo-Roman uber structures to

    celebrate the master races of Western Civilization"</i> <br>

    <ol>

    <li>There are no<i> "pseudo-Roman uber structures", </i>what

    you are probably referring to is called Classicism. Classicism tries to

    explore the virtues of classical <i>Greek</i> civilization.</li>

    <li>There are not many classicist buildings or museums in

    Berlin (visit Gendarmenmarkt and the French Dome).</li>

    <li>The classicist styled museums celebrate "<i> master

    races of Western Civilization" </i>like the Sumerians or

    Babylonians.</li>

    </ol>

    I recommend the visit of the museum island. Not only are museums of

    great interest, but architecture allows for great sights (and

    photography) Helmut Newton museum is near.<br>

    <br>

    Vic, when you are playing the race card, you should at least know what

    you are talking about; I didn´t know that "<i>Homosexauls</i>

    and <i>Handicapped</i>" are races. Jews (Middle East)

    and Gypsies (India) are no native population of

     Europe, but they did come and still come in large numbers to

    Europe and Germany as everybody visiting Berlin can see.<br>

  7. Madras was rebaptised "Chennai", because Hindu chauvinism cant stand the idea that all mayor Indian cities were founded (or grew to importance) by the British. Same with Bombay/Mumbay. Political extremism manifest themself often in renaming of cities - Chemniz/Karl Marx City; Petersburg/Leningrad.

     

    You might have better luck with a search for: Madras Fuji photo shop

  8. >all of them were non operational mock-ups,

    dummy-cameras.< <br>

    <br>

    <i>Excellent marketing! Makes it more of a "concept" and much

    less a reality. And rammed home the reality of the first

    battery-dependent M. </i><br>

    <br>

    You are aware of the fact that the M8 is not for sale yet?<br>

    <br>

    What did you expect? The first digital camera working without

    electricity?<br>

    <br>

    The Leica M8 at the "shooting gallery"  were non operational

    mock-ups, dummy-cameras, and it doesn´t matter

    since one could not take photos with the cameras on display

    there, neither with M8, MP nor R9. <br>

    If you were interested in Leica and the M8 you would have visited the

    Leica booth at the Photokina, were they had plenty of working M8

    cameras. <br>

    The guy behind the counter told me that the prototype M8 can take over

    400 photos with one charged battery in the CIPA test.. His personal

    experience was, that he needed 2 batteries per Photokina day.<br>

    <br>

    <i>But a dead polo pony can still make a great viande chevaline

    :-) <br>

    <br>

    </i>Without water?<i><br>

    <br>

    Did you have a point?</i><br>

    <br>

    There are several possible reasons not to own polo ponies some might be:<br>

    <br>

    1. Not playing polo<br>

    2. Living in place without water<br>

    3. Not able to afford polo ponies<br>

    <br>

    Do you live in place without water and electricity?<br>

    <br>

  9. <i>Leica had a "shooting

    gallery" set up between two halls at Photokina and there were four or

    five M8s bolted down for people to fondle. Every single one was dead -

    no juice. </i><br>

    <br>

    No surprise - all of them were non operational mock-ups,

    dummy-cameras.<br>

    If you had asked the

    <i>lackeys</i> they would have told you.<br>

    <br>

    <i>... the

    point that this camera is a doorstop without a power supply.</i><br>

    <br>

    Polo ponies are dead without water suply, I guess thats the reason you

    don´t  have some either.<br>

  10. Leica has a big booth at the Photokina and one could handle a lot of

    exotic and expensive gear. The M8 received the most interest of the

    visitors and they had many of them (M8 and visitors).<br>

    Some observations:<br>

    <br>

    The M8 has low noise, comparable to an M7 but with a different sound,

    faster more metallic. <a

    href="http://www.dpreview.com/articles/LeicaM8/Samples/Audio/m7-then-m8.mp3">The

    comparisson at dpreview.com (MP3, 68 KB) </a> gives a

    good impression how it sounds<br>

    <br>

    I happen to be there when an Australian visitor compared vignetting of

    the 15mm Voigtländer on Leica M8 and his Epson R1-D.<br>

    Comparing the results of the 15mm on the back LCD of the M8 and the

    R1-D, the visitor concluded, that the picture taken with the M8 showed

    significant less vignetting.<br>

    <br>

    The M8 has an external meter in addition to its internal TTL metering.

    It was explained to me that it is used to calculate the amount of

    vignetting and approximate aperture (+- 1 stop), for compensation

    purposes. With bar coded lenses the M8 will be able to differentiate

    between artificial vignetting and natural light fall off.<br>

    <br>

    Hologon doesn´t fit, but the Super-Angulons and the Visoflex

    will fit the M8 ;-)<br>

    <br>

    My impression is, the Leica M8 will be a big success.<br>

    <br>

    <br>

    Leicas new super wide angle Tri-Elmar is a very compact lens. The demo

    photos, taken with M8 and Tri-Elmar at 16mm, were tack sharp right into

    the corner (in Photoshop at 100% magnification).<br>

    <br>

    The new super wide angle external view finder is huge! <br>

    The view thought this viewfinder is excellent!<br>

    <br>

    The new 28mm 2.8 Elmarit is a cute little lens, same solid design, fit

    an finish as the new 35mm 2.0 Summicron.<br>

    <br>

    I´ve also visited Zeiss more in this <a

    href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00IGiG">message.<br>

  11. I was very interested in the Zeiss Ikon Rangfinder at the Photokina,

    since no shop in my area sells this camera or the Zeiss lenses for

    M-bayonet.<br>

    <br>

    To make it short, the Zeiss Ikon made a very good impression.<br>

    <br>

    Some review at the web tried to create the (IMHO false) impression of

    lightweight, "flimsy", build quality, calling them overpriced

    Bessa´s.<br>

    My impression of weight, finsh, operation of the Zeiss Ikon is that

    it´s comparable to the best Japanese mechanical cameras, like

    the Nikon FE/FM series.<br>

    <br>

    The finder of the Zeiss Ikon is realy excelent, big and contrasty. Very

    easy focusing, no rangefinder patch flare, excelent contrast here to.<br>

    Shutter times are displayed on the left side, IMHO the Leica solution

    is easier for the eye.<br>

    The 0,74 magnification Zeiss Ikon finder is comparable to the 0,72

    Leica finder, only that the Zeiss finder gave me the impression of a

    more spacious picture.<br>

    The ideal focal length for both might be 35mm. The 28mm frames on both

    cameras are IMHO to close to the edge for comfortable composing. The

    Zeiss Ikon might be a little bit better than the 0,72 Leica in this

    regard, but IMHO for 28mm lenses the 0,58 finder in a Leica is best for

    composing. <br>

    <br>

    Before, I had the impression that Leica is the gold standard in

    rangefinder, no other manufactor could compete with. The Zeiss Ikon

    finder is realy hard competion for the M-Leica.<br>

       <br>

    The combined shuttertime, exposure compensation, filmsensitivity wheel

    is another point were Zeiss/Cosina found a superior solution (another

    one would be the back door for conventional film loading). It is easy

    to operate, but has positive response for your fingers with clicks.

    Very easy to use exposure compensation in aperture priority mode (also

    in combination with exposure lock).<br>

    <br>

    Unlocking the camera back works as described in the manual, but I have

    seen better solutions.<br>

    <br>

    The shutter sound and vibrations of the Zeiss Ikon are much better than

    the early Bessa cameras made by Cosina, but unfortunatly for

    Zeiss/Cosina any M-Leica, inclusive the new M8, has a more mutted

    shutter noise. <br>

    <br>

    IMHO (but keep in mind I could only try out for a short time) a much

    better camera than any CL, Minolta CLE, Konica Hexar RF (noisy

    filmtransport), or Contax G (noisy, awful finder).<br>

    <br>

    The Zeiss lenses for the M-bayonet have realy nice quality finish.

    Metal construcction smooth focusing action, precise movement of the

    aperture ring in 1/3 stops. Like the Japanese used to build lenses, but

    (most) no longer do.<br>

    Do they have the same superb fit and finish as current Leica lenses.

    Certainly not, neither do they have the ambitous optical properties of

    current Leica lenses, nor do they have a Leica price tag. <br>

  12. Regardless if you are buying an M6 or not - Keep the OM<br>

    <br>

    <ul>

    <li>The OM-4T brings not much

    money to pay for the Leica</li>

    <li>The OM-4T has  a

    more sophisticate metering system</li>

    <li>The OM-4T is a 

    much more general purpose camera than the M6</li>

    <li> For super wide

    angle photography (anything shorter than 28mm) the OM has a better

    finder</li>

    <li> For  tele

    photography (anything longer than 50mm) the OM has a better finder (the

    90mm and 100mm 2.0 Zuikos are as good as contemporary Leica lenses)</li>

    <li>For shallow DOF, wide open

    aperture photography, the OM SLR gives much better control of 

    the placement and composition of sharpness/unsharpness (not surprising)</li>

    </ul>

  13. Hello Louie <br>

    <br>

    Both light meter use a single AA battery.<br>

    <br>

    Both are of similar size and weight.<br>

    <br>

    The Gossen is newer, with better specs. and has IMHO better ergonomics.<br>

    <br>

    Sekonics L-308 <br>

    <br>

    Sensitivity EV: 0 - 19,9<br>

    Exposure times: 1/8000 - 60 seconds<br>

    Sensitivity Flash: 2.0 - 90<br>

    Flash sync: 1/500s - 1s<br>

    Measuring angle without dome 40°<br>

    Size: 63 x 110 x 21 mm<br>

    Weight: 80g<br>

    <br>

    Gossen Luna Digital Pro F (Sixtomat flash)<br>

    <br>

    Sensitivity EV: -2.5 - 18<br>

    Exposure times: 1/8000 - 60 minutes<br>

    Sensitivity Flash: 1.0 - 90<br>

    Flash sync: 1/1000s - 1s<br>

    Measuring angle without dome: 25°<br>

    Size: 65 x 118 x 19 mm <br>

    Weight: 95g<br>

    <br>

    <br>

    The Gossen has higher sensitivity (good for low light situations), <br>

    a larger range of exposure times, <br>

    a narrower angle for measurements without dome.<br>

    <br>

    Ergonomics follows Gossen standards and are very good and intuitive. <br>

    ISO number is permanently displayed (avoids surprises).<br>

    Has a large "analogue" scale of aperture values (excellent for contrast

    measurements).<br>

    The light sensor is in the front of the device, the shadow of the

    photographer doesn´t fall on the sensor, one can read the

    display and make a measurement (excellent again for contrast

    measurements).<br>

    Horizontal keys change modes. Available and chosen modes are shown on

    the top of the display. No need to guess,  which comes next.<br>

    Vertical keys change values like time, aperture, film sensitivity, etc.<br>

    The central key makes a measurement.<br>

    Small size, flat, fits in a shirt pocket.<br>

    <br>

    IMHO the Gossen is the better light meter.<br>

    <br>

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