richard_s.
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Posts posted by richard_s.
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<i>But to settle it for
all, is plain old 16 bit good enough?</i><br>
<br>
Definitely, 16bit is as good as possible. Most DSLR use only 12 bit to read out the CCD, which means significant less dynamic range than the Dimage 5400.<br>
<br>
The Dimage 5400 is excellent for the scanning of difficult, dense slides with deep blacks, like Velvia or Kodachrome.
<br>
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Kannan,<br>
<br>
16bit linear files of the Dimage 5400 are raw data without balanced
white-point. Simply applying a gamma correction of 2.2 will introduce
severe and difficult to remove colour casts. <br>
<br>
I recommend to use a appropriate colour profile for colour conversion:<br>
<br>
1. Assign, embed a fitting colour profile to the untagged
16bit linear scan, Minolta supplies the profile MLTF5400p.icc
“Minolta DiMAGE Scan Elite 5400 (Posi Linear)”. Do
not use the “Convert to” option.<br>
<br>
You image will now look very different on the monitor, but the data of
your image has not changed! The image editing program just interprets
it in different way.<br>
Your image might look much better, but is still not internal
white-balanced. So it is better to convert it to a white-point balanced
colour space, before making any large colour or contrast adjustments.<br>
<br>
2. I recommend to convert it to a wide gamut colour-space, like
“Ekta Space PS 5, J. Holmes.icm”, to preserve the
full range of colours. <br>
<br>
3. When finished, you might convert it to a colour-space suitable for
your output device like “SRGB” for web-display.<br>
<br>
I did just that with your sample image. Of course colour-space
conversion on 8bit JPEG files delivers not the best result.<br>
<br>
You might notice, he Minolta supplied generic colour profile
MLTF5400p.icc “Minolta DiMAGE Scan Elite 5400 (Posi
Linear)” introduces a slight magenta cast.<br>
<br>
Therefore, I have profiled my scanner for several sorts of slide film,
with better results (I hope so). I used my “Velvia
50” profile on your image without a magenta colour cast.<br><div></div>
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<a href="http://www.helmutnewton.com/">Helmut Newton
Foundation</a>
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Skip, if your car stops working and gets a new engine, are then all
cars (same model) defective?<br>
<br>
Olympus repaired OM-4 with OM-4Ti circuits because OM-4 circuits were
no longer available.<br>
<br>
I have an working OM-4 with original circuit (there was only
one version), still works as advertised. There is nothing indicating an
systematic flaw in the OM-4 circuit.<br>
<br>
Paul, the design flaw, the 'flash-ready' light draining the
camera battery, <b>was a problem of the first samples
of the OM-2SP</b>. It was solved by rerouting the power source of
the flash-ready LED. Affected early models could (still can) be fixed
by competent camera technicians.
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According to Huber a set of fresh batteries should theoretical last for
400 films!<br>
In practice, long exposure times, self timer, finder illumination draws
a lot of current.<br>
<br>
My experience was that a set of fresh batteries was good
enough for dozens of films, shoot in a time span of 1-2 month <br>
<br>
Like all modern cameras, the OM-4 has no power off switch,
it´s in permanent stand-by mode. Stand-by mode in the OM-4
will drain a set of fresh batteries in 6 month, without taking single
pictures. An OM-4Ti has less stand-by mode consumption, but in normal
operation there is no difference in battery life.<br>
<br>
With Olympus OM cameras only use name brand quality silver-oxide
batteries, SR44, V76, 357 and equivalent. Cells from Varta, Renata, and
Duracell are know to be good.<br>
<br>
Never ever use 3V lithium button cells, or cheap no-name silver-oxide
cell from China; your OM will be very unreliable with those cells. I
had cheap Chinese made no-name silver-oxide cells were 2/3 of them
started to leak while still in the package.<br>
<br>
Don´t use alkaline button cells LR44, they will not last.
Cells are cheap but this is none the less a very uneconomical solution.<br>
<br>
If your OM acts funny, show wrong exposure meter reading, gives false
exposure, first replace the battery pair with know good ones, then
check if the problem persists.
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Colour negative film has an incredible high dynamic range, large exposure latitude out of the box.
For improved colour quality in shadows and highlight, bracketing with 4 stop difference might be OK.
BTW better bracket slide film with only a 2-3 stop difference, otherwise you might get no usable result.
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Magnus, stop your imputations!<br>
<br>
<i>Are you implying that the above groups of people should stay
put where YOU think they belong, i.e. outside of Europe or Germany? If
so, I think you are a Leica user for reasons other than its
build/manufacturing quality... </i><br>
<br>
Are you logical challenged?<br>
<br>
Are you denying that the origin of the Jews is in the Middle East and
that of the Gypsies is India?<br>
<br>
I´m not aware that Jews or Gypsies were kidnapped to come to
Europe.<br>
So why should Jews or Gypsies come to Europe or Germany if they have
"problems with Europeans" (the original poster used the racist slur "<i>master
races</i>").<br>
<br>
<i>Nuff said.</i><br>
<br>
Ahh, Magnus don´t drink too much and
don´t beat your wife and children so hard.
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Vic, the original poster asked for places to visit (and probably to
photograph) while in Berlin.<br>
<ol>
<li>The <i>"</i>Sun<i>" </i>is a
British Newspaper (know for its xenophobia and chauvinism) published in
London, not a German one; nothing to
photograph here.</li>
<li>Croatia is a independent nation, Berlin is the capitol of
Germany not Croatia. So nothing to photograph here either</li>
<li>There is no <i>"holocaust museum"</i> in
Berlin, but in Washington. Wrong side of the Atlantic.</li>
</ol>
My impression is, you tried to place some cheap
shoots
against Germany and had no interest in helping the original poster.<br>
<br>
<i>"18th/19th century European pseudo-Roman uber structures to
celebrate the master races of Western Civilization"</i> <br>
<ol>
<li>There are no<i> "pseudo-Roman uber structures", </i>what
you are probably referring to is called Classicism. Classicism tries to
explore the virtues of classical <i>Greek</i> civilization.</li>
<li>There are not many classicist buildings or museums in
Berlin (visit Gendarmenmarkt and the French Dome).</li>
<li>The classicist styled museums celebrate "<i> master
races of Western Civilization" </i>like the Sumerians or
Babylonians.</li>
</ol>
I recommend the visit of the museum island. Not only are museums of
great interest, but architecture allows for great sights (and
photography) Helmut Newton museum is near.<br>
<br>
Vic, when you are playing the race card, you should at least know what
you are talking about; I didn´t know that "<i>Homosexauls</i>
and <i>Handicapped</i>" are races. Jews (Middle East)
and Gypsies (India) are no native population of
Europe, but they did come and still come in large numbers to
Europe and Germany as everybody visiting Berlin can see.<br>
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Vic if you have a problem with the <i>master races of Western
Civilization</i> and their roots or achievements, nobody
force you to be in the <i>West</i> or visit places in the <i>West</i>,
but please leave the Leica here.
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Vic were do I find find the museum dedicated to the genocide of the indigenious Americans in Washington.
Unfortunately, the legacy lives on.
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Maybe the lever for seting the aperture is missing or bent on the adapted lens.
Check any T2 adapter for OM to see what im talking about.
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Madras was rebaptised "Chennai", because Hindu chauvinism cant stand the idea that all mayor Indian cities were founded (or grew to importance) by the British. Same with Bombay/Mumbay. Political extremism manifest themself often in renaming of cities - Chemniz/Karl Marx City; Petersburg/Leningrad.
You might have better luck with a search for: Madras Fuji photo shop
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>all of them were non operational mock-ups,
dummy-cameras.< <br>
<br>
<i>Excellent marketing! Makes it more of a "concept" and much
less a reality. And rammed home the reality of the first
battery-dependent M. </i><br>
<br>
You are aware of the fact that the M8 is not for sale yet?<br>
<br>
What did you expect? The first digital camera working without
electricity?<br>
<br>
The Leica M8 at the "shooting gallery" were non operational
mock-ups, dummy-cameras, and it doesn´t matter
since one could not take photos with the cameras on display
there, neither with M8, MP nor R9. <br>
If you were interested in Leica and the M8 you would have visited the
Leica booth at the Photokina, were they had plenty of working M8
cameras. <br>
The guy behind the counter told me that the prototype M8 can take over
400 photos with one charged battery in the CIPA test.. His personal
experience was, that he needed 2 batteries per Photokina day.<br>
<br>
<i>But a dead polo pony can still make a great viande chevaline
:-) <br>
<br>
</i>Without water?<i><br>
<br>
Did you have a point?</i><br>
<br>
There are several possible reasons not to own polo ponies some might be:<br>
<br>
1. Not playing polo<br>
2. Living in place without water<br>
3. Not able to afford polo ponies<br>
<br>
Do you live in place without water and electricity?<br>
<br>
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<i>Leica had a "shooting
gallery" set up between two halls at Photokina and there were four or
five M8s bolted down for people to fondle. Every single one was dead -
no juice. </i><br>
<br>
No surprise - all of them were non operational mock-ups,
dummy-cameras.<br>
If you had asked the
<i>lackeys</i> they would have told you.<br>
<br>
<i>... the
point that this camera is a doorstop without a power supply.</i><br>
<br>
Polo ponies are dead without water suply, I guess thats the reason you
don´t have some either.<br>
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Leica has a big booth at the Photokina and one could handle a lot of
exotic and expensive gear. The M8 received the most interest of the
visitors and they had many of them (M8 and visitors).<br>
Some observations:<br>
<br>
The M8 has low noise, comparable to an M7 but with a different sound,
faster more metallic. <a
href="http://www.dpreview.com/articles/LeicaM8/Samples/Audio/m7-then-m8.mp3">The
comparisson at dpreview.com (MP3, 68 KB) </a> gives a
good impression how it sounds<br>
<br>
I happen to be there when an Australian visitor compared vignetting of
the 15mm Voigtländer on Leica M8 and his Epson R1-D.<br>
Comparing the results of the 15mm on the back LCD of the M8 and the
R1-D, the visitor concluded, that the picture taken with the M8 showed
significant less vignetting.<br>
<br>
The M8 has an external meter in addition to its internal TTL metering.
It was explained to me that it is used to calculate the amount of
vignetting and approximate aperture (+- 1 stop), for compensation
purposes. With bar coded lenses the M8 will be able to differentiate
between artificial vignetting and natural light fall off.<br>
<br>
Hologon doesn´t fit, but the Super-Angulons and the Visoflex
will fit the M8 ;-)<br>
<br>
My impression is, the Leica M8 will be a big success.<br>
<br>
<br>
Leicas new super wide angle Tri-Elmar is a very compact lens. The demo
photos, taken with M8 and Tri-Elmar at 16mm, were tack sharp right into
the corner (in Photoshop at 100% magnification).<br>
<br>
The new super wide angle external view finder is huge! <br>
The view thought this viewfinder is excellent!<br>
<br>
The new 28mm 2.8 Elmarit is a cute little lens, same solid design, fit
an finish as the new 35mm 2.0 Summicron.<br>
<br>
I´ve also visited Zeiss more in this <a
href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00IGiG">message.<br>
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I was very interested in the Zeiss Ikon Rangfinder at the Photokina,
since no shop in my area sells this camera or the Zeiss lenses for
M-bayonet.<br>
<br>
To make it short, the Zeiss Ikon made a very good impression.<br>
<br>
Some review at the web tried to create the (IMHO false) impression of
lightweight, "flimsy", build quality, calling them overpriced
Bessa´s.<br>
My impression of weight, finsh, operation of the Zeiss Ikon is that
it´s comparable to the best Japanese mechanical cameras, like
the Nikon FE/FM series.<br>
<br>
The finder of the Zeiss Ikon is realy excelent, big and contrasty. Very
easy focusing, no rangefinder patch flare, excelent contrast here to.<br>
Shutter times are displayed on the left side, IMHO the Leica solution
is easier for the eye.<br>
The 0,74 magnification Zeiss Ikon finder is comparable to the 0,72
Leica finder, only that the Zeiss finder gave me the impression of a
more spacious picture.<br>
The ideal focal length for both might be 35mm. The 28mm frames on both
cameras are IMHO to close to the edge for comfortable composing. The
Zeiss Ikon might be a little bit better than the 0,72 Leica in this
regard, but IMHO for 28mm lenses the 0,58 finder in a Leica is best for
composing. <br>
<br>
Before, I had the impression that Leica is the gold standard in
rangefinder, no other manufactor could compete with. The Zeiss Ikon
finder is realy hard competion for the M-Leica.<br>
<br>
The combined shuttertime, exposure compensation, filmsensitivity wheel
is another point were Zeiss/Cosina found a superior solution (another
one would be the back door for conventional film loading). It is easy
to operate, but has positive response for your fingers with clicks.
Very easy to use exposure compensation in aperture priority mode (also
in combination with exposure lock).<br>
<br>
Unlocking the camera back works as described in the manual, but I have
seen better solutions.<br>
<br>
The shutter sound and vibrations of the Zeiss Ikon are much better than
the early Bessa cameras made by Cosina, but unfortunatly for
Zeiss/Cosina any M-Leica, inclusive the new M8, has a more mutted
shutter noise. <br>
<br>
IMHO (but keep in mind I could only try out for a short time) a much
better camera than any CL, Minolta CLE, Konica Hexar RF (noisy
filmtransport), or Contax G (noisy, awful finder).<br>
<br>
The Zeiss lenses for the M-bayonet have realy nice quality finish.
Metal construcction smooth focusing action, precise movement of the
aperture ring in 1/3 stops. Like the Japanese used to build lenses, but
(most) no longer do.<br>
Do they have the same superb fit and finish as current Leica lenses.
Certainly not, neither do they have the ambitous optical properties of
current Leica lenses, nor do they have a Leica price tag. <br>
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Regardless if you are buying an M6 or not - Keep the OM<br>
<br>
<ul>
<li>The OM-4T brings not much
money to pay for the Leica</li>
<li>The OM-4T has a
more sophisticate metering system</li>
<li>The OM-4T is a
much more general purpose camera than the M6</li>
<li> For super wide
angle photography (anything shorter than 28mm) the OM has a better
finder</li>
<li> For tele
photography (anything longer than 50mm) the OM has a better finder (the
90mm and 100mm 2.0 Zuikos are as good as contemporary Leica lenses)</li>
<li>For shallow DOF, wide open
aperture photography, the OM SLR gives much better control of
the placement and composition of sharpness/unsharpness (not surprising)</li>
</ul>
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Again, not the first time, what a collection of racist hate messages.<br>
<br>
Disgusting Leica forum.<br>
<br>
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Hello Louie <br>
<br>
Both light meter use a single AA battery.<br>
<br>
Both are of similar size and weight.<br>
<br>
The Gossen is newer, with better specs. and has IMHO better ergonomics.<br>
<br>
Sekonics L-308 <br>
<br>
Sensitivity EV: 0 - 19,9<br>
Exposure times: 1/8000 - 60 seconds<br>
Sensitivity Flash: 2.0 - 90<br>
Flash sync: 1/500s - 1s<br>
Measuring angle without dome 40°<br>
Size: 63 x 110 x 21 mm<br>
Weight: 80g<br>
<br>
Gossen Luna Digital Pro F (Sixtomat flash)<br>
<br>
Sensitivity EV: -2.5 - 18<br>
Exposure times: 1/8000 - 60 minutes<br>
Sensitivity Flash: 1.0 - 90<br>
Flash sync: 1/1000s - 1s<br>
Measuring angle without dome: 25°<br>
Size: 65 x 118 x 19 mm <br>
Weight: 95g<br>
<br>
<br>
The Gossen has higher sensitivity (good for low light situations), <br>
a larger range of exposure times, <br>
a narrower angle for measurements without dome.<br>
<br>
Ergonomics follows Gossen standards and are very good and intuitive. <br>
ISO number is permanently displayed (avoids surprises).<br>
Has a large "analogue" scale of aperture values (excellent for contrast
measurements).<br>
The light sensor is in the front of the device, the shadow of the
photographer doesn´t fall on the sensor, one can read the
display and make a measurement (excellent again for contrast
measurements).<br>
Horizontal keys change modes. Available and chosen modes are shown on
the top of the display. No need to guess, which comes next.<br>
Vertical keys change values like time, aperture, film sensitivity, etc.<br>
The central key makes a measurement.<br>
Small size, flat, fits in a shirt pocket.<br>
<br>
IMHO the Gossen is the better light meter.<br>
<br>
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<i> ...played with an EOS
5D. Bloody nice camera with sweet ergonomics and so sweetly balanced.</i><br>
<br>
How did you like it´s wind-on lever?<br>
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Did you see the Danish film "Italian for Beginner"?
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I shouldn�t post late at night...
Velvia Slide Scanning Help on Dimage 5400
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted
<i>I'd never heard about this posilinear profile, it works like a
charm fixing a lot of earlier mistakes too!</i><br>
<br>
It is a pity, that Minolta has not a better manual, description of the
workflow. Minolta tried to make it “idiot-proof”,
as a result you will not be informed of the true capabilities of this
scanner, but other brands are not better in this regard.