gyuri
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Posts posted by gyuri
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Now we are pretty sure, that the picture is fake!
Read carefully this: http://www.naturephoto.hu/home/index_eng.html
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Dear Andrea,
I take pictures sometimes in extreme environments. You can go easily out with a battery dependent camera in -50 degreee of Celsius, if You can protect the battery itself. The Tri-Elmar, or a zoom lens is a good idea, because to change the lenses in the subzero dry air could be dangerous. The cold camera/lens can collect all the humidity of the breath! It will be frozen promptly. Same problem with the viewfinder (too close to your eye)
I vote to the MP, or an M2/M3 with the Tri-Elmar. Or, what I use now, the small Ricoh GR-1, and a Rollei 35S for cold backup. Anyway, I use a small Gossen light meter, what I keep in my pocket close to my body. I use a full-mechanical Fuji GW690 too...
Sooner or later You have to pull your gloves off: you have to change the film!
And do not forget the protecting filter...
Regards: Gyuri
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Just an example: Change the kingfisher for a baby elephant, what is hunting for the mayfly. Ok, flying with just two relatively small ears is not easy, but who knows...? The Jumbo Jet more heavy than a baby elephant, and it is able to fly is not it? The photos are always evidences.
;-)
The elephant not hunting? Hm... ok, if nobody seen until now, not means, that is not true. The science is changing every day. The photos are always evidences.
The elephant not able to catch the mayfly with its trunk? The trunk is a really versatile tool! The photos are always evidences.
The elephants are only living in Africa, and India? I have seen many of them in Europe too... Even during the winter. Paris, Wien, and Budapest have pretty nice zoo!
The picture was on the cover of NG? This is the true evidence is not it?
If a photo like this mentioned above, will be publish in the NG, we will believe, that a baby elephant hunting for mayflies over the Europian rivers?
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Thank You for all the post.
The naturArt has tried to negotiate with the NG many times by E-mail first, and personally later (as You can read in the article)
It seems, that nobody else done the same (until now). I think most nature photographers are afraid to do the same, because they do not want to stand against the famous NG. But I never heard any other opinion, only that this photo is a fake nature photo.
After reading Mr Kenneth Brower's article in the "The Atlancic Online", I am sure, that we have to stop this type of "story-making" techniques...
Here is the mentioned article:
http://www.theatlantic.com/issues/98may/photo.htm
Maybe Ligia has truth, and all we have to write E-mails to the NG to sign that the hungarian nature photographers are not alone with this opinion.
I am sure, that the NG is not capable to investigate all the pictures one by one, and the pressure is extreme high to be in the first line of magazines today. It is a normal behaviour to serve the readers with such a high quality articles, like we read in every magazines today.
I think the TRUE Nature Photographers (even the amateurs) has to help out the NG (and all of other magazines too) with opinions, feedbacks, letters. It is more and more easy today, when the E-mail is so easy to write.
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Don,
thank You for posting good examples about the hovering hummingbirds.
You are right, it is impossible to get similar shots with a bird moving at 20-35 mph in front of the lens.
You can find few more kingfisher pictures from the authors of the web page, at the following link: http://www.naturephoto.hu/gallery/index.html
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express = expression
Sorry for the mistake ;-)
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Dear all,
could anybody describe me the meaning of the express "nature
photography"?
Read this before answers:
http://www.naturephoto.hu/natgeo_english/index.html
Regards,
Gyuri
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Brad,
I have a GW690III, and it does the same. I think it is normal, caused by the exposed roll diameter, because the spacing became bigger and bigger to the end of the roll.
feel the camera, and check in to the fujirangefinder.com ;-)
Gyuri
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I like the Domke style bags. They are expensive, and there is some alternatives.
Finally I bought a Matin Photo Club. It is really good looking, and protected all my gear in the dusty pampas of South America!
Gyuri
PS: here is my bag: http://www.matin.co.kr//admin/goods/big_eng/M-6419.jpg
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I made good candid street pictures in Morocco, Peru, and Bolivia with my GW690III.
pictures here:
Greetings:
Gyuri
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I just bought a Hassy basic set because of possibility of changing backs, and the macro features. I am planning to use the BOTH system same time. Hassy for the macro work (later for the digital maybe), Fuji for the classic RF shots (available light and head-and-shoulder portrait). I will have to buy only roll films.
Probably Fujifilm decided based on the financial results. But they cut their legend with the low margin...
My latest trip was around Peru, and south of Bolivia. The GW690III and GA645Zi survived the 1000km dusty roads in Atacama desert, the salty winds in Uyuni desert, without any problems. I took about 100 great pictures with the GW, and my friend took the same amout with his GA. Two other (non Fuji) cameras has problems, one of them _died_ during this trip...
Once I shot with my friend in the italian Dolomites. We had to shoot really fast, because the light was changing every second. I shoot 2 rolls, when I realized, that my friend is just finished to fill the Hassy back :-)
I took pictures with my GW in heavy rain, where the Canon L optics died, Fujinon not. I took "T" night winter pictures in -35 degree of Celsius for hours, without any problem. This is a simple, and extremly good construction. Only the shutter noise what Seiko has to reduce ;-)
My GW now is working in Ireland, unfortunately without me (I gave it to my friend to shoot on this trip). I am sure my friend will smiling for a week, when He will see the slides :-)
Gyuri
Here is the Bolivia gallery (they are 35mm):
Dolomites (GW):
And an other picture from Morocco (GW):
http://www.fujirangefinder.com/files/0107/blue_door_.jpg
1/8 sec, f4
Morocco (GW):
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Here is an example:
EOS 1nRS 1/250, f8, background in natural daylight.
The bird is about 1m, main light is 8x 540EZ, 100/2,8 lens
The main goal, to freeze the motion, and the wings (without secondary expo on the wings), get correct natural looking background. All of this without building an outdoor studio with 1000 studio flashes, controllers, wires, reflectors what cause the damage/disturb of the nature. All of this old techniques needs energy, what is not so environment friendly :-(
For the infra system, my friend is using an self developed, and made wireless system.
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Alan,
thank You for the information. My friend probably know this photographer very well (maybe personally) but as I followed the name, and found the most complete bird photography link collection here:
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Dear Alan,
You are right! My friend takes photos about hummingbirds, kingfishers, and swallows, mainly small, and fast flying birds. The kingfisher is a bit more complicated to taking photos about it than a hummingbird ;-)
Here is an example from his collection:
http://www.greenfo.hu/pix/dinamikus/galeria/4.jpeg
As You can see here, the background is black here.
Edward,
we are investigating the time lag of the Rolleis, but until now, I did not found any exact information for this. Thanks for the flash info!
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Dear all,
one of my friend is looking for the best solution to his bird
photography. He works with IR beam traps, and remote controllers,
flashes, and EOS RS/RT bodies. It could be a central shutter for
example, what is built in, or applicable to a large format lens.
He is searching a shutter with the next parameters:
- shutter time lag under 6ms
- full flash synchronization
- electronically controlled, and released
- exposure time is shorter than (or equal to) 1/500 sec
I just read the Uniblitz website for this solution. The Uniblitz
seems pretty good shutters, but fot the correct aperture we have to
use a 14mm, or a 25mm modell. Here the shortest expo time is 4-6
milliseconds (1/250-1/166 sec). (www.uniblitz.com)
So, my question is:
Is there any applicable shutter on the market? Or any 100-200mm lens
with this shutter? If the bayonet, or the lens is not fit, not a
problem, we are ready to work on it :-)
Any other idea?
Many thanks in advance, for any answer!
Gyuri
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Les,
that is why I wrote, that the correct light balance could be tricky. I can not understand, how can the background perfectly exposed, and the end of the wings did not got a "ghost" effect, or how can they such a freezed.
I am not the expert of the bird photography, but it seems so strange. (the AF speed, the correct lights, the behavior of the bird, etc)
I do not want to write down, that it is a fake, or a studio shot, until I do not know, how was it taken. As Ligia was mentioned before: "With all my respect, this Kingfisher is not flying, it is just about to, which makes it easier to get his/her picture"
As Peter told, we have to wait for the official statements.
Regards,
Gyuri
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Thank You for the answers! I think not the correct focusing, and the right release the problem here. The light balance could be pretty tricky too..
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Thank You for the answers!
So it means, if I had an infra beam remote controller (set up properly), the right camera (EOS1nRS for example) and I wait for a long time focused to a point, sooner or later, I can get a flying kingfisher?
Is the camera (and the whole system) enough fast to react under 0,003 sec?
As I counted, the bird is flying about 50km/h (31mi/h). It means, that the DOF here is about 4 cms, so the bird it pass trough the right DOF under 0,00288 sec.
I think I have to buy about 1000 rolls of films ;-)
Seriously: is there any right resource on the net for this practice?
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Dear all,
I am just got the latest National Geographic, and I have read the
Mayflies article. (online:
http://magma.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0305/feature3/index.html)
I found there a picture about a kingfisher, flying in front of the
lens.
(http://magma.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0305/images/pc_sent.3.2.jpg)
I can not understand, how is it possible to get perfectly sharp
picture about the fast flying bird, like the kingfisher! I could not
find any information for the technical details. I have a Canon EOS 5,
and a 100-400L zoom. I tried to focus on birds many times, but almost
never got sharp focus if the birds was flying in front of the lens.
It has some trick to get sharp focus, with such a short DOF? Have You
got any idea, how was this picture made?
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Ira,
I have noticed this light fall-off with my GW690III, when I shot longer night exposures than 30 seconds and/or wide open.
Now I shoot around f16.
Some examples can be found here: http://forum.fotoklikk.hu/modules.php?set_albumName=album07&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
I think this is a normal light fall off, what is caused by the film reciprocity (Schwarzshild), plus the lens light fall off together. I never tried the center filter, but I was thinking on it. Once I tried out the Cosina 77mm center filter (made to the Cosina 19-35 zoom) with a 67-77mm filter ring converter, but I have not really notice any difference. So I finnaly have not purchase one.
Regards:
Gyuri
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How can I get any information about the exact shutter time lag of both models? One of my friend has an XPan, and they would like to use for their flash pictures.
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Dear All,
we are planning to the same places too at the end of March, and beginning of April. If somebody will be there too, and would like to spend a few hours with us, or to take a short local trip with two photographers, please write me: hegedusgy@vivendi.hu
Bruke,
what about your trip? ;-)
Regards:
Gyuri
www.hege.tk
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<I>"Well, I'm going to Focus On Imaging show here in the UK on 23rd of this month. Fuji always have a large stand there and you can be sure I'll raise this issue with them directly. In the meantime I remain an enthusiastic GSW690III owner."</I>
Dear Nigel,
I suggest, to buy first a Kodak T-shirt, with a big kodak logo. When the Fuji say: "oh, we are sorry, we will stop", You just put you Kodak T-shirt on, with a BIG KODAK logo ;-)
Regards,
Gyuri
<A HREF="www.hege.tk">www.hege.tk</A>
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Dear Ike,
I have a Fuji GW690III, and a Leica M2 with an Elmar 50/2,8. I am over 1000 expo with the Fuji, and I like a lot. The shutter noise is loud on the Fuji, but not so loud, like a Hassy, or a Rollei 6008, what I heard side by side with my Fuji last week. My friend (the owner of the Rollei) first words were: what a silent shutter...
The pictures: The Fujinon is not so sharp, like a high end Leica lens, but in contrast, and colour rendition is pretty good, as good, as the today high end optics!
As Dante Stella wrote, the MF has never so sharp, as the Leica format, but in the case of Fujinon, Zeiss, and Mamiya, I think it is really close.
But You can use a 400 film instead of 50.. or You can change the film often if You want (yes, it is an advantage for me, when I use the Zone system..) You can retouch easily if You want, and so on.
I have tried the Fuji G645Zi, and I was shocked by the result. For the price of a new Leica lens, You can get a great compact 645 camera, with plenty of features, and a marvellous optics! I was checked it with one of my friend, who is working as a repro photographer for a museum (with Mamiyas, Hassys, and plenty of LF lenses), and He told me, that this tiny zoom lens is really pair of the Leicas, or the high end Zeiss optics.
So I can tell You, that the Fuji optics are one of the best (especially, if You choose the EBC coated wersions!).
Few links:
http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/
http://members.aol.com/subgallery/byfl.htm
Sincerely,
Gyuri
www.hege.tk
Voigtländer Bessa-L/Heliar 15mm f/4.5 lens for Landscape Work
in Leica and Rangefinders
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Nate,
I have been in Peru-Bolivia with my friend last year. My friend used a FED-Voigtlander 25mm without any problem.
They are excellent lenses!
Gyuri