dmin-99

Ben,

 

Which filter do you use?

People who have this lens say that it has less falloff than the Schneider or Rhodenstock lenses, it seems that a center spot is not normally required. If you think that you'll need one the Schneider IIIb (used on the 110XL) is a 1.5 stop and will fit (67mm) and should work fine.

Thanks Steve, but that's the info I already have. I'm asking about Gold Dot lenses that aren't 14". I can find no reference to 8-1/4 and other sizes having been produced by Kern or Schneider. The 2M serial # series doesn't correspond to Goerz or Schneider ranges. The latest Goerz that I am aware of that kept the normal sequencing was 84xxxx, and Schneider was around 11M at the time. So I don't know if these were made from leftovers by Kollmorgan or Kern or Schneider, or if there's another story. At least I can see your response, so I guess that my settings are o.k. Thanks.

This is very strange. I haven't really spent any time here since the move to Photonet so please excuse the questions. First, I posted this question in a much longer version several hours previous to this re-post and it disappeared. No record of it in my history. Is this a common occurrance here? Also, I'm getting responses to this question in my home Email, but I don't see them here, am I getting personal Email responses or do I have a preference that requires setting? Now to the responses. AFAIK from everything that I've read the Kern Dagors were 355/8, I haven't heard of any others. The G.D. Dagors that I've seen with the 2M ser#s were 8-1/4 and either 9-1/2 or 10-3/4 and had "A.O." on the front ring. I think I remember seeing a Kern Dagor with the ser# 11M at one time, quite possibly I am mistaken in this. I do not believe that the 2M serial range is MC (I won't know until I receive mine). Can anybody add to or correct this information? Thanks a lot guys.

The problems are: depth of field, freedom from vibration, alignment of film plane with lens plane, agreement of GG location with film location, flatness of film, flatness of image plane, resolution of lens, etc... It all comes down to "system resolution". In practical terms having a film that will resolve 200+ lp/mm is overkill in large format, there are too many other limiting factors. For shooting 2D subjects under controlled conditions there would be a real benefit, but for 3D? Using any lens at the normal f/22-f/32 apertures you'd have a real gain of 2-3 lp/mm at most on film. The major benefits would be lack of grain and smoothness of tonality. As to your actual question any recent "apo" or good process lens (Artar, Ronar, etc) that has excess coverage for the format (to use the "sweet spot") used at f/8-f/11 would be able to show an improvement in resolution dependent upon the effects of the other factors previously mentioned. On 4x5 I'd suggest a Sironar S or APO Symmar of 210mm or longer used at f/8-f/11. Looking at the aerial image of my lenses the Artars give them a real run for their money at f/11, of course f/8 is out of the question with them. Good luck.

I posted this several hours ago, and it disappeared, so I'm trying

again.

 

To cut it short. Anyone know why the ser# for Gold Dot Dagor is in the

2M range?

My post should have said ISO100. But of course YMMV. Depending on the studio/room space, the efficiency of the softbox, and how close it is to the subject exposure can vary by +/-2 stops.

A 4803 can be had on Ebay, cheap. Couple it with a 206 head and ISO 100 film and you can get to f/45-f/64 easily, with ISO400 film... But don't try to use it for digital, it doesn't power-down low enough. Bring a truss, the packs weigh 46lbs. each, it helps to carry 2 at a time to even-out the load. No joke.

 

Anybody got a cheap 805 or 1205 for sale?

 

Regards,

Wayne

Great camera. No need for bag bellows, 360mm works fine. I love mine. Unfortunately I've moved-on to 5x7 so it doesn't get much exercise these days.

 

http://www.walkercameras.com/titan-sf-4x5-03.html

 

Regards,

Wayne

Why do you need another lens? I've done this before. You need to get the proper framing from ~10' away from the nearest subject. Mark the grass/ground with tape to keep everyone in the field of view. Use whatever focal length is appropriate... do NOT change the focal length during shooting. Keep all the little bugger's heads the same size (except for the genetics involved). I used film but I'm guessing that 50mm on a digital may be a bit too tight. I'd go with a medium-wide zoom and tape the zoom in place once the right fl was established. You'll be shooting ~f/8 so a fast lens isn't needed.

 

Regards,

Wayne

From what I've read over the past few years it's usually the camera or operator that's at fault. Either the camera runs out of power during the recording of a burst of shots or the operator interrupts the recording process. The photos are still there (well maybe not the last few), but the directory is corrupted. There are utilities on the web that will allow the recovery of files SOME OF THE TIME. Watch the battery indicator, change batteries before you need to, make sure that the write lamp is out before shutting-off the camera or yanking the card. Real card failure is very rare.

 

Regards,

Wayne

There's a clean 150HM on Ebay right now with a low BIN price.

 

Regards,

Wayne

If you use fluid to eliminate the Newton rings you'll probably want to use KAMI mounting fluid. Good luck finding a "small volume" supplier, last one that I found would only sell it by the case (4x 1 liter). If you plan on doing this a lot you may want to change the glass with an anti-reflection coated glass. Also, does the 3200 allow focusing on the glass when the transparency mode is engaged? I know my 1680 does. It will make a difference as far as sharpness goes.

 

Regards,

Wayne

This really isn't a good application for a 4x5. You'd be better-off with a smaller format, or even (shudder) digital. Remember what's 1:1 on 4x5 with DOF measured in mm will be 1:20 on consumer digital with what will seem to be unlimited DOF.

 

Regards,

Wayne

You can get a custom ring made by either B+W or Heliopan (nice brass rings). Contact Christoph Greiner if you can't get it ordered in the States. Otherwise

you're probaly stuck with pairing-up 2 rings.

 

http://www.greiner-photo.de/

 

I ordered dozens of Heliopan rings from him several years ago at 30%-50% of U.S. Prices.

 

Regards,

Wayne

Eric,

 

Hvae you seen this post?

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=009n1x

 

Read the last post. If you can trace your lens to this person it might get you back to the source of your problem.

 

Regards,

Wayne

You are definitely mixing lens cap and filter sizes. Go one standard size down (58 and 67mm respectively) and you'll be ok.

For home storage a large, heavy (800+ lbs) gun safe is the way to go,

for cameras and other things. They cost about the same as a good

lens, well worth the cost. For in a car a simple solution is a hard

(pelican) case locked with a chain around the spare tire in the

trunk, or seat support in the cabin of a car. I have an SUV from

which I've removed the rear seats - leaves quite a few mounting holes

(seat supports, seat belts) to which I can bolt security boxes.

You can also look into a Polaroid MP4 camera with a Kenro 8x10 head,

works very well. I've used mine for >500x magnifications of

transistor chips.

I'm 46 but feel like I'm still 18 (until I get vertical in the

morning, then it's downhill for the rest of the day). Started with a

127 camera ~39 years ago, went through 620, Polaroid, 35mm, 6x7, 4x5,

digital, and 5x7 in that order - still using everything except the

127 and 620. Andy had a good question... where IS everyone hiding?

I've never seen another LF shooter in the field either. I'm in

Pennsylvania.

Don't know why this would be a good idea - I would think that you

would want to reject U.V. so the colors are not contaminated.

Sounds like the "Patterson Major Focus Finder", don't know if it's

still produced. A better alternative would be to buy or rig-up an

extension handle for focusing.

Oops - been a while since I owned my RB, I guess anything shorter

than 127mm is a retrofocus design. Other than using a Mamiya lens I

don't see another alternative. You might check backfocus specs on the

large format 90mm lenses to see if there's one out there that will

work, but they're probably all within a mm or two of each other.

Try the following:

 

<p>

 

http://www.photo.net/history/timeline

You'd be better-off asking that on a Mamiya board. You probably can

do it by pre-releasing the camera's lighttrap and mirror, then using

the lens's shutter. You'll need extra extension though if you want to

focus closer than infinity. You'll need to rig-up the lens solo - as

someone else pointed out, a 90 in front of a 180 gives you a 2x

microscope.