andres_suurkuusk

<p><a href="http://photoguide.jp/txt/PhotoLabs_in_Japan">Labs</a></p>

<p>I like Adorama in NYC for they good quality prints on Kodak Metallic.<br>

Any recommendation for the same good print service in Tokyo?</p>

<p>http://www.vanityfair.com/images/hollywood/2010/03/actors-directors-1003-09.jpg<br>

any ideas how to get this "cinema colors" look?</p>

I'm 36. Shoot 4x5 and 6x6 for couple of years.

For magnification bigger than 1:1, one should reverce the lens.

 

<p>

 

Rule of optics is simple: smaller object goes in front of 'rear

element' of the lens, bigger object in front of 'front element'.

 

<p>

 

Enlarging or any "normal" lens design assumes that smaller object

(film) goes behind the 'rear element' of the lens and bigger object

(ph.paper etc.) goes in front. It works for =ANY= magnification, e.g.

if one doing macro grater than 1:1 (film size is bigger than the

object) lens performs better in reverse position.

I use 80/4 Apo-Rodagon N on Sinar F2, no shutter, lens is mounted

normaly (not reverse) on custom-built plate. In dark studio, I pull

out dark slide from film holder, wait about 1-2 sec to cut the

possible vibration, manualy trigger my strobes. That's all. 50x60

Epson 9000 prints from 4x5 chromes look ok to me. Sample

http://www.hot.ee/andress/leht_.jpg

Get Horseman bag bellows. You could use it with 47-150mm lenses on

flat board. Use 6' rail. Good luck.

Yes. I had the same problem. My nails is trimmed and I couldn't slip

my nail under the film if holder is lay down. . Now I keep the holder

verticaly, like this:[===] and film separates from holder bottom a

little. It works!

Sinar. It's like Nikon or Hassy. You can always find a lot of them

used. I use F2 in studio and fild. Frankly, it's not perfect for

both. In studio, when doing makro 2:1 it's not rigid and precise like

P2, but... I got sharp chromes. In fild, carry you camera with 6"

rail in backpack and rail clamp attached to tripod. Setup takes 30

sec. Anyway this camera is good compromise for studio&fild and get

Horseman bag bellows.

<a

href="http://www.archiphoto.com/personal%20pages/LFlenses.html">Here</

a> is some lense ideas.

Use both screens! no kidding. that's why they made 500CM to replace 500C. i have Acute/microprism+grid installed on 500C. sometimes when shooting macro, microprism drives me creasy, because i can't see the object behind the prism. but... microprism is very handy for quick focusing.

Friend of mine have a couple of 25" f/9-256 Rodestock Apo-Ronar in

barrel for sale.

<a href="http://www.greiner-photo.de">CHRISTOPH GREINER

PHOTOGRAPHIE</a>. Prices are equal or lower than Robert has (depends

on the £/DEM ratio)

I use Rodenstock Apo-Rodagon-N 80/4 for macro <a

href="http://www.hot.ee/andress/24.htm">work</a>.

Sorry for misprint, it should be 80/4@f22 ;)

Well, <a href="http://www.hot.ee/andress/24.htm">here</a> is

Rodenstock Apo-Rodagon N 80/2.8@f22 on Sinar F2, Velvia, drum scan.

Making a DOF calculator for any camera is <a

href="http://www.cs.berkeley.edu/~qtluong/photography/lf/dofknob/">her

e</a>.

Reala + ProLab