ray

Lori,

I have filled out and submitted these permit forms (call the number in the links above for

a permit application) in the past for shooting on National Park Service grounds in DC

(monuments, etc.). The permit has no fee and apart from the bother of having to fax it in,

is very trivial to apply for.

Provided you're not using a tripod and not setting up any lights, it's easy to get a permit.

If nothing else it gives you the peace of mind that an overzealous security officer will not

shoo you (and your bride) away.

Here is a link to Adobe's <a href="http://www.macworld.com/news/2007/10/26/

adobelopard/index.php">compatibility guideline</a> between Leopard and Adobe's

products.

Make change to one image; use the lift and stamp tool to make the same change to another

image with one mouse click. I haven't tried this on a group of images yet.

your mac can read your external drives with an NTFS format. However, it cannot write to it

(reliably at least). What you will want to do is connect your external drive to the mac and

then copy the images to an internal drive (or another external drive), reformat the Lacie with

HFS+ and then move your images/libraries back.

I cannot answer your lightroom question. I would imagine that you could use it, but I have

no actual experience to back it up.

In response to Tim Knight's correct observation that there is a no flash regulation within both

museums and buildings in Italy, I just returned from a trip to Rome last year. I did all my

photography with the 18-200 and I had absolutely no problems handholding shots with the

VR enabled. Part of this was due to the well lit buildings with a lot of natural lights and off

course credit must go to Nikon for making the VR work.

In any case, the 18-200mm lens will definitely work as your only lens on your trip to Italy

provided that you can find this lens anywhere in stock.

I experienced about 20 rolls using the MN-30 ( I recharged the battery before it completely

drained -- I probably had a few more rolls worth of charge left).

I have a quad g5 and I have no problem burning a MAM-A DVD (or verbatim) at full speed. I

am using Toast 7 (and not the default Finder Burn feature).

It's possible that you have a faulty superdrive, in which case, you should get it replaced under

applecare.

Zoom creep is normal behaviour on this lens. When new, the creep is minimal and not

noticeable. After a week or two of heavy use, the zoom mechanism is a lot smoother and the

creep is very noticeable.

To the previous poster who claims to have seen versions of this lens with no creep, I suggest

using them for a week.

<em>THE APPLE 30" Cinema Display monitor will not work with the standard digital monitor output of Mac computers, it requires an additional "premium" video card. If you are considering one, you have to factor this into the overall cost.</em>

<p>

I don't think this is true anymore. Late model PowerBooks and all current MacBookPro laptops have dual-link dvi and support the 30 ACD. The base Mac Pro also supports the 30" ACD (from apple's website: "Every Mac Pro graphics card supports dual displays and at least one 30-inch display.")

iPhoto (free and already on the computer) and <a href="http://www.iview-multimedia.com/downloads/">iView Media Pro</a> ($199) jump to mind.

<p>

As Ellis said, Aperture and Lightroom are also good options (I use the former).

According to the "what's new" section of the help PDF (under help menu), the "sharpening intensity" setting under Raw Fine Tuning is only supposed to compensate for blur introduced during the Chroma Blur (aka noise reduction) filter.

It does not replace the separate Edge Sharpening feature which you would use based on output target (i.e. more sharpening for smaller prints, less sharpening for larger prints, web vs print, etc.).

My assistant (2nd photographer) was pregnant last year. Never a problem with our clients as I was the primary photographer. But by month 7, she was definitely not in a position to run around and take pictures with her usual athletic vigor. I did all the lifting of the heavy equipment and I did the bulk of the running around as well. Also, I had to cover for her during her bathroom breaks.

Bottom line, if you're working by yourself, I can easily see why your client is uneasy about this. Make sure that you have a very competent assistant and provide all assurances that you will have a backup for youself if you are unable to make it.

In my case, I took the extra precaution of booking a assistant to my assistant (3rd photog). You never know when a pregnancy might end up in bed rest the last few weeks/months. Fortunately, everything went well in my case and showing up with three photographers in all won me a lot of brownie points with the client.

Good luck with your business and off course your pregnancy.

Apart from the fact that that would be a violation of the license, OS X is designed to run on Apple hardware only. I'm not entirely certain how the latter is accomplished (combination of hardware and software ?), but suffice it to say that it is difficult enough not to be a widespread practice.

Right now, the only way to easily and legally run OS X and Windows on the same machine is to purchase a Intel powered Apple hardware.

I use a 30" Apple Cinema Display and it works wonderfully for image editing. I'm also using a Monaco Optix XR Pro for calibration.

Please disregard the comment above about not being able to set the brightness. The LCD has two dedicated buttons on the side for adjusting brightness.

In particular, I can tell you that the calibration with the Monaco devices work nicely too.

If you can afford it, the productivity returns pay for the screen itself. I was so used to spend more time shuffling editing windows around than actually doing any work.

We have a number of macs in our company so I've become pretty adept at keeping the mighty mouse clean. The trick is to use a wet paper towel and give the ball a vigorous cleaning. This includes, pressing it in and rotating it about on all axis. (You didn't describe what you meant by "best cleaning efforts" and I was thinking that perhaps you had only used a dry cleaning cloth).

Once we figured this out, we've never had a problem.

This isn't a "fault" of the MM -- and sending it back for a replacement won't help. It's plain old life -- dirt and oil on the fingers will eventually gum up the rubber coating on the ball.

You either have to create a 17" x 7" canvas in Photoshop and then layout your three 5x7 pictures vertically side by side, or, you can purchase a RIP (like ImagePrint) that will take a directory full of images and automatically lay them out on roll paper so you don't waste any space. The RIP will then use the built in cutter to cut off strips of pictures for you.

For minimizing wastage when using a variety of sizes, I manually do layout in ImagePrint (say a single 8x10 with two smaller pictures next to it).

Image layout for printing on roll paper is one of the reasons that people turn to RIP software.

Version 1.1 is now officially released with a lower price of $299. For early adopters (like myself), Apple has a $200 coupon at the Apple store ($100 for academic users):

<p>

<a href="http://www.apple.com/promo/aperture/">http://www.apple.com/promo/aperture/</a>

The SB-800 communicates with the SB-600 using white light (not IR). It is easy to confuse this communication with the actual flash as they are milliseconds apart.

Take a picture and verify that the SB-800 is actually delivering flash light and not just communication light (which occurs prior to the shutter opening).

<em>I haven't seen a setup yet. Do you think they could be used in fashion photography

in place of the super expensive Broncolor ringlight?</em>

<p>

I've tried this but the flashes simply don't have the power to replicate a ringlight. They are

however, effective fill lights if you want to throw a few around the set to add highlights.

<p>

<em>

The additional heads are pretty affordable. It would be tempting to buy if it didn't require

that stupid transmitter/control module. </em>

<p>I believe the D70 allows you to control the remote flashes from the pop up flash. At

least I found a device in the bag that attaches on the hot shoe and drops a filter over the

pop-up flash to let the IR light through.

<p>

<em>

I was also concerned about trying to fit it to so many different lens filter sizes. </em>

<p> The bag comes with a large set of step up filter rings, so this should not be an issue

(assuming most of your lenses have standard 77mm diameters).

Here is the full size image: <a href="http://highres.maxwell.com.au/images/nikkors/AFS_VR_%20(1).jpg">http://highres.maxwell.com.au/images/nikkors/AFS_VR_%20(1).jpg</a>

<p>

The lens is very real.

If you blow out one of the channels due to incorrect white balance (or incorrect expsure), you

cannot recover in ACR. In other words, if highlight details have gone to white (255, 255,

255), then there is no detail to recover by fiddling in ACR.

Do it right the first time.

Well, the F100 haven't disappeared from the market just because Nikon is not making new

ones. There are still plenty on shelves and a used F100 is going for little more than $300 on

eBay. Nikon is also offering support for film slrs for at least 10 years, so I don't think this

workhorse of a camera is going to leave the scene anytime soon for those who really need it.

I suppose another option would be to turn on the preference option to make all edits on

Versions. That means that you Master image is left as is and all edits occur on a newly

created version. This doesn't take up any significant space since the version is only a set of

change instructions. On the plus side, you can always delete the version and back up to the

Master.

Have you tried doing command-delete (File -> Delete Version) ? This will remove all the

edits and restore you to the original Raw file.