miha2

<p>@Bob Ross: sorry for the delay :D ... yes bought it, love it and still have it... </p>

<p>@Peter Tan: again, I have tried and I think that it can be done on an FX body (havent really make a setup though since i never find a time to come to it... I used biggest filter I could find (cokin x-pro size) held it in front but had problems due to reflections resulting from teh light coming in by the hood cut offs, tried it with a piece of cloth (covering the area from the filter to the body) and it worked, i would just have to make some sort of holder for filter and cloth, it should be the thinnest possible, am not sure if this would work in portrait and landscape orientation since the measures are really really tight</p>

<p>br</p>

<p>miha</p>

<p>

<p>Hi Roger,<br>

Thanx for the info I'll Give it a try<br>

BR<br>

Miha </p>

</p>

<p>@Roger: I don't think ram (4G) and scratch disks are the case here, since everything worked a ok fo app 2 weeks.<br>

Since nothing helped and I am on a some sort of time scedule I decided to install nikon scan on my old 17" Dell (NS4.0 on XP) and it works normally... (thank godo it's not a IR bulb or sth like it)</p>

<p>I actually was trying out Vuescan in the begining but have liked nikon scan better, wasn't able to find ICE equivalent in Vuescan... any hints where can one find it? If ICE is supported I'll probably use it instead of nikon scan... will try to figure out by myself,.. but all the info are more than wellcome ;).</p>

<p>As for my current PC and Nikon Scan ,... ICE still doesn't work, have uninstalled with Revo uninstaller (supposed to clean registry and other traces of installed apps). </p>

<p>PS. RegSweeper.exe mentioned above was in my case reported on several sites, by several antivirus progs (some claim it's not) to be malware</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello,<br /><br />I wonder if someone has come accross a solution for presumably ICE related problem in a Nikon Super CoolScan 5000 ED Film Scanner<br /><br /><br /><br />Mine ceased to work properly yesterday, meaning it did't finish a slide scan. It always stopped just before finishing, meaning it scanned the picture but failed to deliver. See attached picture.<br /><br /><br />http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2598/nikoncoolscan5000edicep.jpg<br /> <br /><br /> <br /><br />As I noticed later the problem probably originates from ICE, since the scanner still finishes the scan normally if the ICE is turned off. Reseting the computer, scanner or the program did not resolve the issue (haven't tried another computer od reinstalling yet since the problem occured late at night).<br /><br /> <br /><br />If i understand correctly the ICE works in IR spectra, does this mean it has a separate bulb? Is the possible reason the bad bulb? Maybe dust in the scanner (although I try to work in as dust free environment as possible). If the IR bulb has to be replaced what is the approximate price?<br /><br /> <br /><br />Is it possible that it is a software issue? Is there any sort of diagnostic tool for this scanner?</p>

<p>Thanx and BR,</p>

<p>Miha</p>

<p>Hi there,<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> thanx for the advice,.. I actually tryed sth similar before posting here, I sued a rubber band in order to get a better friction/grip, but it didn't really do the trick (it is excellent for unscrewing a slim versions of polarizers if they get stuck on a lens). I wrote about this problem directly to the Heliopan and hope that will get some answer... the thermo heating/cooling idea is a rather nice one and will try it if there will be no answer from heliopan.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Thank you</p>

<p>Hi guys, <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I have a problem that I haven't heard of yet, maybe anyone has a clue...<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I accidently dropped the photobag from app 0,5 m and one of the lenses in there apparently took the majority of a hit ...the result was that the front lens cap got jammed in the Heliopan protective filter,.. when I managed to remove the cap out of a filter, it turned out that the INNER ring of the filter (thar holds the glass in place) got unscrewed.. as far as I could establish the screws are intact, I tryed to screw it back in (wich I partially succeded) but since the inner ring has NO grooves of any kind (that I would notice) there is no point than one could use to firmly grab the inner ring..<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> thanx folx ... <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> have a happy one :)</p>

<p>Hi Bela, <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> the solution U R suggesting is kind of (and forgive my words) useless, when we are trying to find the filter setup that ywould work and you state the obvious. Ffirst of all the coating DOES NOT do the same trick as polarisers do (that are rather useless, non uniform at such wide angles), as the second part,.. using joining of two different exposured pics in PS,... maybe if you are doing still photography,,, I just can't imagine it with eg... taking picture of a plane,... wanting to darken sth out,... and doing 2 frames (ok let's say you have 10 fps,... you still wouldn0t do it) and for the end,... it takes too much work if joining in PS, not to mention that for many reasons the photos must be unmanipulated except eg tonal values (wich joining more photographs in one isn't, and same goes for multiple exposing of raw files and joining jpegs)...<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> so as i think i explained filters are needed and can probably be used,.. (I hope)</p>

<p>Hi there, <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I mainly wanted to use nd grads, maybe nd-s (but handheld although on a tripod gets a bit trickyer, in many cases blurryer :D), I agree that lens is most probably incompatabile with the filters, but since I use nd grads a lot I'm trying to get some sort of solution for wider angles and full frame,.. for my present experiences, as said the socket might do the trick (let the hood have its "cut-outs" but prevent the light to get in by compartmenting the filter and lens...<br /> <br /> <br /></p>

<p>ok... so far haven't really seen an adapter that would work and not vignette on a fullframe with 14-24. <br /> <br /> Some posts were asking about filter sizes needed, if I talk in Cokin sizes :D.. I tryed the X-pro cokin nd grad on my 14-24 f2.8 and it coveres all the frame (on a full frame), so there is no problem there<br /> <br /> BUT (unfortunately)<br /> <br /> although the filter coveres entire hood I repeatedly had reflections in the filter from the light that came in at the sides, this reflections summed cover almost 1 third @14mm (the hood has some sort of "cut-outs", don't know the proper naming, in order to prevent vignetting, so it doesn't form a circle at the outer part, I tryed (just in cas it might work) duct taping the "side cut-out hood holes" but that naturally eneded with vignetting.. <br /> <br /> I tryed a ribbon-plastic-strech out hood filter holder as well, Cokin produced (usually used on movie cameras) and it seemed to work, but was quite bulky and pricy,...(not to be mistaken this adapter would just remove the reflections and not hold the filter) <br /> <br /> Than..I was thinking of attachiing some sort of black textile light impenetrable sleve, or a socket, that would be covering the edges of the filter end would strech onto a lens (therefore prevent any light to enter) but haven't came to it,.. and am not sure how to really attach the textile to the filter..<br /> <br /> If anyone has any idea or has come upone some nice DIY tutorial please let him step forward <br /> <br /> PS. I guess it has been shown that screw-in filters can not be put on, but about the polarising filters questions,.. usage of polarizers on a such a wide lens would never cover entire frame, picture an you usually end up with unevenly polarised eg. sky.. might be usable for partly reflections removal but I do not see a serious usage of polarizers at shis angles..<br /> <br /> <br /> take care</p>

Thanx for a quick reply Thomas, please do email me.

 

The more I look (read) around the more I lead towards Feisol 3371 (since I am 183cm) am thinking of wether I should get the center column for 3371 as well (add. 60$), mainly because if I eg. am on a slope and the legs won't do it, otherwise the legs wit the head should be enough for eyes level.

I plan to use tripod with (and this is another dilemma) manfrotto 393 head (for the heavy lens), in combination with the manfrotto base (it doesn't turn at the bottom, made for monopod) but since it doesn't lock 100%, I figured out I should get another (thinking of some sort of manfrotto big ball head) for steady shots (long exposure shots), but than again, maybe it would be wiser to buy just a big ballhead, it should pan well enough, and lok sturdy as well..

 

And for the ending, last time I saw a novoflex ballhead in a store.. anyone using it..

 

see ya

 

miha

Hi guys,

 

am looking at Feisol 3371 for a D200 + Nikkor 600mm f/5,6n ED IF AIS MF lens combo. Since tripods have been out for almost a year, can anyone give me some experiences with this tripod, I was otherwise thinking of buying a gitzo 1325.

 

Thnx

 

miha