michael_michaelski

<p>Rick,<br>

The T(2) is somewhat like the T3(N), in that the markings are the same, but there are features that are different. the T-1 had the on-off switch on the top back of the camera, where the T-2 had it around the shutter release (that is the most visible difference). If you don't mind going to Flickr, you can see (most) of my Konica's on > . As was said before, Greg Weber is the person to go for if you want your's fixed. If you are really interested, you might also visit the 'konicaslr' forum on Yahoo groups.<br>

Mike (who still has his first Konica (T2), but it no longer works - my second one, purchased in 1971, is still working fine).</p>

If you simply need a lot of flashes in a session, I would suggest getting the LVP and LVC options that work with the 283/285 flash. They are not A/C, but they do use four "D" cells, not four "AA" batteries. The LVC-2 (I think) has an end on it that looks like the battery pack, and the LVP will hook on a belt for direct flash use, or hang from a light stand in remote use. I agree with Craig that the recycle times are at least as slow as run down batteries, but it's good to have to exercise the capacitors on a regular basis, which I do.

Over the past two years I've been to the ones in Miami and Tampa/St Pete, FL, Atlanta, GA, and Houston, TX. I have more cameras at the house right now than I have seen at those shows. I have found bargains, and I tried to combine the trips with other activities (visiting relatives, etc.), but I can get more things through the dealers who support this site and the auction block, and much faster to boot. I might have a change of tune if I ever get to the Pasadena or S.F. area shows while visiting California. In summary, camera shows in the USA are dying much faster than film, IMHO.

Mike

No, it requires the LVP-1 which uses 8 "C" cells for power. They did make a Ni-cad battery pack, but I suspect all of them are long since dead. You will also need the LVC-1 (I think) connector between the pack and the flash. I recently did a wedding reception with one, shooting over 300 images - the ready light never went off all evening (8pm till 11:30pm). The sensor was mounted on the hotshoe and most shots were direct, not bounced, which would have taken more power. Even so, full manual recycle times were only about one second slower than with fresh batteries. BTW, the metric guide number for ISO 800 is 171 in tele mode (IE, f/4.0 at 33 meters or 140 feet).

Mike

T-2 (switch on the top, not the back), T-3 an NT-3 (built in flash shoe) are all great cameras. I have dozens of them. Greg Weber can rebuild them to use Silver batteries instead of the mercury ones. If the foam is in good shape, they are really not much louder than other cameras of that era. Meters stop working mainly because of corrosion at the battery box, but can be fixed in a CLA. The T-3's have a much smoother wind gearing than the earlier ones. Look at the yahoo group 'konicaslr' for lots more information.

Mike

Greg,

First, you do have the Kiev polaroid back, or a modified Hassy 100 back, correct?

If so, Ferdi is correct about reading and following the instructions, and the cautions about having clean rollers!

Mike

Check to see that your camera shutter is actually opening. I received a K-88 about a year ago that 'was broken', and when I checked it, I noticed that the shutter curtains never were letting in any light, even though everything 'sounded' ok. Well, I then used it to check film spacing on about 9 or 10 backs. By the end of the test, the shutter was working properly! Cause - the poor quality grease used at the factory had congealed. The same could be happening to you if you have not used the camera in a while. Try exercising the shutter with the back off and see if that is the problem/answer.

Mike

Denis,

If you want to learn how to use the strobes, you may want to read the series "lighting 101" on strobist dot blogspot dot com, then read through 'On Assignment" at the same web site. There are some very good techniques on 'seeing' light there.

Mike

Justin,

 

You might want to look at Rick Denny's site (www dot rickdenny dot com) or Trevor's site (www dot pentaconsix dot com). They have both reviewed the shift/tilt lenses from Ukraine. If you want an inexpensive shift lens, look for the Loreo on e*** or go to their web site out of Hong Kong to find a dealer near you. I have both shift lenses but have not used them much, nor have I done a rigorous test of either one - but the Loreo is about $25 (plus your adapter, if needed).

Mike

Lens Collector's Vade Mecum availability

 

Because of marketing rights, it is available as follows:

 

For delivery worldwide, except USA:

http://www.mwclassic.com/acatalog/MW_Classic_Cameras_VADEMECUM_CD_ROM_256.html#a11309

 

For delivery in USA only:

http://members.aol.com/dcolucci/sell.htm

There is also a book called "Photo Technology Data Book". I think I got mine from Craig Camera. There are over 188 different lens cross sections and an extensive listing of manufacturers and model designations - and it's all 'old' stuff (pre 1970's). And that section does not have many words that need translating, and thus useful to all, no matter what their native language.

Mike

What type of focusing 'knob' do you have on your C-35? I have built several rings out of some two inch diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe and some plastic from a damaged CD-ROM. Get my e-mail from Photo.net and I'll send you some pictures. I have three different rings because there are that many different focus 'knobs'.

Mike M.

When I first got my Bogen/Manfrotto 117, I set it up on carpet, with the center post all the way down and the legs at about a 60 degree angle. I then out my hands on the center post, padding the center screw with some cardboard, leaned forward and proceeded to lift myself off the carpet. Only stayed up there about five seconds before my arms got a little shaky - but that's another story - tripod now used with an A-S B-1 and it's just fine. PS, I weigh 100 kilos! True story! Mike

Vick, I've sent you a private e-mail with this information, but here it is for all to see. Mike

 

Here is what I measured on mine:

From The Bottom:

4 > 10.8mm

3 > 14.8mm

2 > 23.0mm

1 > 46.4mm

3/4 > 65.5mm

1/2 > 100.0mm

1 (range) 105.3 to 109.6

3/4 (range) 111.2 to 113.0

1/2 and 2 (range) 128.7 to 137.9

From The Top

3 (range) 119.4 to 107.7

4 (range) 83.6 to 59.6

The "Camera Aperture" side is (cutout) is 57.0mm long and 9.3mm wide. It's bottom is 52.9mm from the bottom of the unit. The lines on the sliding piece are about 7.9mm apart (47.2mm for six).

Arrow Markers on the side of the Aperture scale as measured from the bottom are:

1/2 > 51.9mm

3/4 > 43.8mm

1 > 36.0mm

2 > 20.3mm

3 > 12.3mm

4 > 4.6mm

The Film Value scale goes from a low of three to a high of 20.

At a film value of '4' the '2 >' lines up with the half stop below F4, at a film value of 20, the '2 >' lines up with the half stop between F11 and F16.

HTH.

Mike

I've recently done two of these because of fungus. What I remember best is that they take a good bit of acetone to loosen up the fourth lens group (one right in front of the aperture) because the flange that is exposed is not really near the actual threads, and the whole area in between has the 'glue' compound in it. Re-assembly is the tricky part.

Mike

Jean-Louis,

I did purchase the Uni-4, along with an Arca Swiss B-1G, both rated sufficently above the total weight for my comfort. My next problem is obtaining a suitable plate for the head to attach to, as RRS and Kirk do not have exactly what I think is needed - 10 inch (25 cm) long, central 3/8 screw, stop pins at both ends, otherwise solid plate.

Mike

You could also look for a used AMBICO bellows hood (they stopped making them). You want the square version, as the rectangular is for 35mm. It has two filter slots that will accept the Cokin "P" series filters and does have approximate settings for the different focal lengths. There were adapters made just for the Hassy lenses!

Mike

There are other tripods (and heads) to consider. Right now there is a nice Majestic on e-bay by the seller (nomadsales), #7617246432. It may not go down close to the ground, but it's capable of handling a 25 to 30 pound load, which is more than most will subject a tripod to. I have a couple of Manfrotto's and think they are a bit conservative on their load ratings. My 117, rated at about 35 pounds, has supported me for a short time (think 100 kilos) with ease. Of course that was a straight vertical load and the legs were at about a 60 degree spread - all the way out might be a different story. Also look at Giottos, Slik, Velbon, Berlebach, Davis & Sanford, Ries (but only when you have plenty of cash), and some of the new products from RRS.

Mike

If you read German, you might want to go to this site, where the manual for the lens is posted.

 

Mike

 

http://yandr.50megs.com/carl/1000/1000.htm

There are tripods that simply have a post or column rising from them, generally the Majestic and the Davis and Sanford types. The bowl tops generally have a 3/8 inch screw in the middle, which attaches as the others have described. But the bowls come in different sizes and are generally used only with heavy video cameras - 60mm, 75mm, 100mm, and 150mm diameters.

Exactly what tripod do you have? We can give you much better answers if we know that part, because it gives us a common reference point.

Mike

The -## is a code for which camera system it fits (Konica AR = 7, Topcon UNI = 17, etc.). There is a list in the files section of the VIVITAR lens group on Yahoo. "MC" usually stands for "Multi Coated", Automatic (on the older ones anyway) meant that it would couple the camera and lens mechanisms together for either aperture or shutter preferred 'automation' as used in cameras 20 to 35 years ago. There were also 'matched multipliers' for use with specific lenses which were better corrected for those lenses than a general purpose one. There may be some later versions that would support auto focus by having the electrical contacts in the right place, but I have no experience with them. Mike

Greg mainly works on the SLR's. He's done three for me.

Mike

I agree with Craig and Illka. Manufacturers are conservative with their ratings because the need to assume that the load will not be straight over the center. A recent example is my new Manfrotto 117, which is rated at a little over 30 pounds. When I got it immediately set it up, put my hands over the center post and slowly shifted my weight onto the tripod till my feet left the carpet. I only stayed up there 10 seconds because the center bolt was digging into my hand. I weigh 225 pounds - the tripod had no problems supporting me. YMMV. Mike

Jean-Louis,

Thank you for your response. You correctly recognized the exact lens. Maybe I think it is light gree because I've only looked at it under flourescent light - and the box is painted green. I've contacted Trevor (Pentaconsix site) and he says he does stand very close to his when it does go on a tripod. He also recommends the Berlebach tripods, although B&H has a Cullman that will support the same range of weight (over 100 pounds). I have a Majestic 1201 geared head on the way and I'm tracking an Arca B1 at auction. Again, thank you for your insightful response!

Mike

I need to get a tripod to support my new CZJ 1000mm F5.6 and whatever

camera I happen to attach it to (P-6 direct, M-42 and two others with

adapters) I've already checked with RRS and Wimberley who both

decline to recommend their products for this (light green) elephant.

I figure I should go for a capacity at least three times the weight of

the system, or about 96 pounds (3 X 32), based on what has been said

before in this forum. The Arca Swiss B1 series are only rated to 90

lbs. And then there's the question of a tripod to put the whole thing

on. 100mm ball, 150mm ball, flat plate, manhole cover? I will not be

going far from motorized transportation with the rig, but would like

something that could be used outdoors. Please include some price

ranges and your own experiences as a guide. Thanks

Mike