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scott_ditzel1

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Posts posted by scott_ditzel1

  1. I bought a used Sunpak auto DX 12-R ring flash. I got a PDF manual but I'm in need of an adapter ring so as it will fit my macro lens with a 52mm filter thread. I know it has been years since these were made and the only ring I can find is for a 77 mm filter thread. Can I use that with a step down ring to adapt it? Are there any other rings that may work? I have an email out to Tocad (who marketed these units and they sent me the PDF manual) but no response just yet...
  2. <p>A shot I took last Friday of the old Courthouse in Dallas, Ga...Nikon D7100, Sigma 10-20mm F4-5.6 shot at 10mm, ISO 200, F9 & 1/200 SS...PP in Lightroom with a slight crop to remove a distraction in the upper left corner of the frame...<br>

    <a title="resize for photo.net by screaminscott, on Flickr" href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/9952055926/"><img src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2825/9952055926_48313d0d7d_z.jpg" alt="resize for photo.net" width="640" height="630" /></a></p>

  3. <p>I'd opt with the older lens & save some money...VR is nice, but for a macro lens, it isn't needed. I do a lot of macro field shooting of insects...Your money would be better spent on a speed light if you don't already have one, or a ring light. It will stop the movement of both you & your subject. What good is VR if your subject moves?...I use an older manual focus macro lens from the mid 80's (Lester Dine 105mm F2.8), but any true macro lens will give you good results. It's more about your technique than it is about gear. Yes, the newer lenses will have better coatings & other features, but most of what those coatings correct, can also be done in post...Here's a link to my Flickr stream if you'd like to see what you can do with a non-VR macro lens.... Oh I have 6 different macro lenses, all but one is manual focus, none have VR</p>

    <h1 id="title_div" > http://www.flickr.com/photos/screaminscott/</h1>

     

  4. <p>28 F2 & 20 F2.8 are both way out of her budget...I guess people choose to ignore the OP's budget constraints...KEH has 20mm F2.8's in "ugly" condition for $299 & no 28mm F2's which, if they did ,would be priced even higher. Also, the OP has a D90 so those would equate to the FOV of a 30mm & a 42mm respectively...Since she has an 18-105mm lens, she already has a lens with a wider FOV than your suggestions...It's going to be difficult (but not impossible) to get anything wider on her budget. some of the other on lens suggestions will help her shooting while there though...As we all know, the wider, longer or more specialized a lens is, the higher the demand & ergo, the higher the price we have to pay.</p>
  5. <p>Looks as though some people misread the subject line. The OP is asking about 20mm lenses, not 200mm lenses...I have the 20mm F4 Nikkor which I paid $35 for (it has an almost imperceptible scratch on the front element)..Sharp enough for my tastes...</p>
  6. <p>I use not only older AF lenses but also MF lenses on a D70s & am more than satisfied with the results...On the D80/D90, you won't have metering with older MF lenses but all 3 bodies will AF & meter with older AF glass. The D7000 will meter with both older AF & MF lenses.Newer lenses will have better coatings , but with Photoshop, many of the shortcomings of older glass can be rectified. Most people won't notice those differences anyway. Best advice is to try them out & if you like what you get, great, otherwise you can always sell the lens if you don't like it.</p>
  7. <p>Yes Zack, I agree that lessons & practice are the best solution, but it isn't a good way to put it as he did with such a blunt statement...The OP is likely embarrassed & offended by the way it made her look on the forum. A little more tact is needed, otherwise why would a novice ever come back to the forum? Better to incorporate that answer in with some other info so that it doesn't come off as it did. It would be nice to know if the OP is even following this thread anymore & her take on it.</p>
  8. <p>The Canon and the Samsung both have hot-shoes, BTW."<br>

    Yes they do , but the OP's camera does not as it's a base model & costs a lot less than the ones you noted. It would strike me as funny, imagining a little P&S camera hooked up to a large speedlight or set of Alien Bees....& Dave's comment about taking a photography class, while a good idea, does a disservice to the OP..What if all of the questions about photography here on pnet were answered that way?</p>

  9. <p>One of the reasons I suggested a DSLR is the fact that you can get a flash off camera for it whereas most point & shoots only have a built in flash as this model does. Yeah, you can get a better point & shoot with a hot shoe, but that's more money & if he's this interested in improving his photos, he will eventually want to go the DSLR route anyway.</p>
  10. <p>A point & shoot camera has too small a sensor for what you want. Get a camera (DSLR) with a larger sensor. Add to that the fact that we need exif data to see what shutter speed & focal length you were using as that has an impact on IQ as well</p>
  11. <p>Yes, most any true macro lens will give you good results with the proper techniques. That said, the differences will be in build quality & resale values. Nikkors will command a greater price, even in the used market. You will want a bit longer focal length to get in close without scaring away skittish insects, so a 105 is a good length to get. Sigma & Tamron also make some nice macro lenses, just make sure to get a true, fixed focal length, lens & not a zoom with a "macro" feature...When shooting macro, the closer you get to life size, the less effective AF & VR systems become. Most good macro work is done by focusing manually. I installed a split prism screen in my camera to help with focusing, but a DK-21m viewfinder magnifier would help some as well. Newer cameras focus screens are meant for AF lenses & as such can be difficult to focus manually without some kind of focus aid.</p>
  12. <p>While tubes will work well, they have their limitations. Unlike true macro lenses, they won't allow a lens to focus to infinity when used. Their is no changing the magnification ratio without having to add or subtract tubes. You do lose light when using them, how much depends on what tube/lens combo you are using. With a D60, if you don't get Kenko AF tubes, you lose metering (although it is pretty easy to use the LCD & histogram to nail your exposure) Kenko tubes are pretty pricey themselves. I would save up for a true macro lens . You can save a few $$$ by buying one used. If you are willing to forgo a lens that will meter with your camera & use the LCD/Histogram for your exposure, you can find an older manual focus macro lens for even less. I shoot a lot of macro with older manual focus macro lenses on a D70s (won't meter with them either) & I get good results. I just let my Flickr account lapse & signed up for a zenfolio account on which I have a small selection of macro shots if you would like to see the results from such a setup...Here's a link to my zenfolio page<br>

    http://screaminscott.zenfolio.com/p984947295</p>

    <p> </p>

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