jcolwell

<p>The EF 100/2.8 Macro USM would be a fine lens for you. Also, you might consider using "off camera" flash and a few simple reflectors to give you better lighting control.</p>

<p>The EF 100-300/5.6L is a wonderful lens. Sure, its AF is slow, but it works fine. I sold mine because I usually shoot zooms handheld, and IS is a great advantage for this. On a tripod, the 100-300L is sharper in the centre and corners at 300mm than both the 70-200/4L IS and 70-200/2.8L IS with EF 1.4x Extender. On a tripod, the 100-300L is virtually the same in the center as the 300/4L IS, and slightly softer in the corners; at f/8, they're virtually identical. On a tripod, my 100-300L was significantly better that my 70-300/4-5.6 IS at all settings. Handheld, the IS zooms take the cake almost every time, and so I sold my 100-300L. I also sold my 70-300/4-5.6 IS. The EF 100-300/5.6L is an excellent performer on a tripod and handheld in good light with high shutter speeds.</p>

<p>For general-purpose shooting with a 5D, it's hard to beat the 24-105/4L IS for a light weight and flexible solution. I have both the 24-105L and 24-70L. My '105L' gets used more often, because it's lighter and more flexible. OTOH, when I need a fast AF zoom for shooting indoors or outdoors with low light, the 24-70L is the one I use, especially for moving subjects .</p>

<p>Check pages 63 and 64 of your manual, "File Numbering Methods", and use "Forced reset" for a quick fix. Jim.</p>

<p>"Will the fractal-like pattern that characterizes the organism go away if the fungus is killed?" No. It will stop growing, but its signature will remain until the element is cleaned or replaced. <br>

I once had the lens on a Fuji GS645S Wide 60 rangefinder disassembled and cleaned by a pro repair centre to remove fungus, with fine results. All of the other lenses that I've acquired with fungus in them, have gone back to the sender. So far (knock knock), none of my own lenses have grown the stuff.</p>

<p>A good dose of strong sunlight over many days should kill the fungus. If the coating has been damaged, then you'll need to replace the element to fix it. If it isn't noticeable, then you might be OK to just keep using it, once the fungus is knocked out.</p>

<p>You should check this FM post from late last year. It contains a lot of links to good resources on using manual lenses with EOS bodies http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/718836</p>

I can say that the EF 24/2.8 is an excellent lens. It works well on all Canon crop factor bodies (1.6x, 1.3x and FF).

<p>I agree that both are excellent lenses, and that the f/4L IS is a bit sharper in many conditions.  I haven't done a head-to-head comparison of both lenses at f/4 with the same subject, because I generally only take one of them with me.  I use the f/2.8L IS for low light, indoor events and sports (it balances much better on a 1DII than does the f/4L IS), and I use the f/4L IS for everyday walkabouts, hiking, travel, and when I'm carrying a lot of other, heavy stuff.   I never use IQ to decide between them, regardless of the apertures I expect I'll be using.</p>

<p>A Pentax K lens can work with a simple mechanical adapter on an EOS 1.6x crop factor (CF) body with no modifications, but you have to remove the aperture control lever and lever shield to use it on a 1.3x CF or full frame (FF) body. I frequently use Pentax K lenses (most often SMC Pentax 18/3.5 and SMC Pentax-A 50/1.4) on all three EOS sensor sizes (1.6x, 1.3x & FF). In my experience, performing the aperture leverectomy has no significant effect on resale value, and it doesn't "disable" the lens for use on Pentax bodies, it simply makes it into a manual aperture lens, same as on EOS. Here's a few links with general and Pentax-specific information.<br>

 

<p>Bob Atkins <a href="http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/manual_focus_EOS.html">http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/eosfaq/manual_focus_EOS.html</a><br />NK Guy <a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-manual-lenses">http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-manual-lenses</a><br />Markerink mounts and registers <a href="http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm">http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm</a><br />Oleson's lens mounts <a href="http://members.tripod.com/rick_oleson/index-99.html">http://members.tripod.com/rick_oleson/index-99.html</a><br>

 

<p>Pentax to EOS alt lens questions.. <a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/718836">http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/718836</a><br />Altering Pentax K Mount to Canon Eos 5D <a href="http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic2/574010">http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic2/574010</a><br />M42 telephoto <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00J01o&tag">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00J01o&tag</a>=<br />Pentax K and M42 <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00ExzY">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00ExzY</a></p>

 

</p>

</p>

<p>The 5D was announced in August 2005, and available late 2005 or early 2006 (I bought mine in 2007). I've never had that kind of problem with my 5D and 70-200/2.8L IS. I agree with all of Puppy Face's comments and suggestions.<br>

 

<p>P.S. I don't think Canon IS uses spinning, electro-mechanical gyros. It's probably based on piezoelectric angular velocity sensors.</p>

</p>

<p>Many of my alternative lenses meter differently on my 5D as you change the aperture . In many cases, they meter accurately when nearly wide open, but get increasingly underexposed as you step down the aperture. I rarely remember which does what, and so I generally check the histogram for the first few shots.</p>

<p>I use both original Canon NP-E3 and Lenmar DMC-E3 batteries in my 1DII bodies. They both hold a charge very well. They work best when they're deep-cycled once in a while (I do it about every three or four months). Have you deep-cycled yours recently (with the REFRESH button on the charger)? The Lenmars have weather proofing gaskets that are very similar to the OEM battery. I'm equally happy with both types. Of course, the Lenmars are much less expensive.</p>

<p>I use a CP-E3 with two CMP-E3 reload magazines. Both mags are missing a bunch of tabs, with no effect on operation that I can detect. I can't say that I've noticed a difference in discharge and subsequent recharge times between the CP-E3 and batts from the 580EX, but that could be because I just dump all discharged batts into a "to charge" container, and so I wouldn't know which came from where. You can set the C.Fn-07=1 to run the 580EX off the external power pack only - that'll let you know pretty fast if it's working or not.</p>

<p>A new version of Lens$db has been posted <a href="http://tinyurl.com/lens-db">http://tinyurl.com/lens-db</a><br>

 

<p>The Lens Price Database, Lens$db, has prices and physical specifications for over 450 lenses and other stuff, including: all Canon EF prime lenses and EF Extenders; all Canon EF L-series zoom lenses (plus a few others); a variety of lenses from Sigma, Tamron and Tokina; a large selection of “alternative” manual focus lenses from Carl Zeiss Contax, Leica, Nikon, Pentax, and other brands; and, a selection of Medium Format 645 and 6x6 lenses that are more-or-less compatible with EOS cameras. The prices are mostly for used equipment in excellent to mint condition, based on eBay sales and list prices at many camera stores.<br>

 

<p>Jim<br />Halifax NS</p>

</p>

</p>

<p>I agree with Yakim. Get them all at once if it's a reasonable deal. I have both versions of the 580EX flash. I often prefer using the Mark I, as its user interface is easier and quicker to use, especially for switching between independent, master & slave modes.</p>

<p>You can get some interesting pointers from the links below. They're meant for 1D-series cameras, but many of the settings and functions can be used on the 30D and other bodies as well.

<p>

<p>Getting the Most from your EOS 1-Series Camera http://www.usa.canon.com/content/Handling/EOS_Digital.pdf <br>Sports Illustrated Photo http://www.siphoto.com/?canon1DM2.inc

I received the following response today from Canon Canada on the mountain vs. volcano question:

 

<p>    "The icon would represent a mountain with a cloud."</p>

 

<p>Thanks to Canon Canada for the quick reply.</p>

I'm pretty sure it's a mountain, see http://www.jcolwell.ca/photos/macro-40D-landscape-icon.jpg

<p>P.S. I just asked Customer Service at Canon Canada to tell me what the landscape icon is supposed to be; a volcano or a mountain and a cloud.  I'll post the answer here, if I ever get it.</p>

Volcano? I see two mountains and a cloud.

<p>You should (re)read the manual. Page 172 has a nice summary table. The Creative Zone is where RAW image quality is used; in P, Tv, Av, M and A-DEP modes. The Image Zone is for pre-programmed settings, for people who don't want to think about photography while shooting photographs.</p>

<p>I suggest you apply a regimen of strict self-control for at least two months. Using your 40D and fine 17-55/2.8 + 85/1.8 lenses, go out at least once every two days and take lots of photos. Learn what your current gear can do and can't do, and then decide where next to go. Don't let "what is possible" distract you from what you can do now.</p>

<p>I think Tommy's right. Do you need f/2.8 or not? I have both IS versions of the 70-200L. I pull out the f/2.8 when the lighting might be a challenge, and when I want better DOF control (or if it's going to be really windy). I pull out the f/4 in most other circumstances. I don't worry about which has better IQ, because they're both excellent. If I could only have one of them, it would be the f/2.8.</p>

On eBay, you can expect to get from $535 to $625 US for the 10-22mm (for lens conditions from E+ to M-), and from $735 to $925 US for the 17-55mm. The sale prices will be higher if you have hoods, original caps and boxes.