jorge_jimenez1

<p>Remember there are no new SLX's They all are over 30 years of age. You will have a hard time going from an SLX to the 6000 with your old lenses. If you know your camera's history I'd have it fixed. I can tell you that KEH stand behind their stuff and have for over 30 years. Good luck. I own all rolleis.</p>

<p>Remember there are no new SLX's They all are over 30 years of age. You will have a hard time going from an SLX to the 6000 with your old lenses. If you know your camera's history I'd have it fixed. I can tell you that KEH stand behind their stuff and have for over 30 years. Good luck. I own all rolleis.</p>

<p>I have just replaced my old Sanyo cells with the chinese cell pack from evil bay. I had no difficulty. First, you cut the flat strip at the end of the Sanyo with scissors. Then, using a locking tweezers clamp together the end of the NiMH ribbon and the cut remains off the SLX battery. Then, using an electric solder, you get the solder HOT, then you transfer the heat to the ribbon where the two sections (from the battery and from the end piece) are clamped. Bring the solder flux in contact through the small hole at the end of the new battery ribbon and VOILA. Then do the other one the same way. Remember to re-install the diode heat sensors in the cells in their original position re-using the paste around them. REINSTALL THE PLASTIC COVERS on the battery pack (or you can short circuit the whole thing) Finally, close the case up. Insure the fuse is 0.8 amps for then SLX or 1.0 amp for the 6006 type II OR 1.25 amps for the 6003, 6008, ald later bodies. Charge it with your Rollei N charger until the red light goes off 3 times. You are DONE</p>

<p>To use interchangeable film magazines you must exchange the film stage 67 for a special version (Cat 13493)</p>

<p>I am not aware of a Tessar lens with a rare earth element. Frankly, I have both the Technikar 95 and the Tessar 100 and I can tell you there is NO comparizon between the two. The Technikar is FAR superior and it doesn't need to be shot at f11 either. F8 is razor sharp on the focus plane.</p>

<p>Hello. I ansewered the previous post.</p>

<p>Yes, you are right. The first picture is not of the 70mm back. The 70mm back is for any Linhof that takes the Super Rollex back.</p>

<p>The Horseman 2x3 has more movement than the Linhof 2x3 cameras. It is lighter and with its grip, it is a very fast camera when used with the rangefinder. In addition, the spare lenses are quite light. I would assume you do not need to use the ground glass for focusing since you mentioned how slow the 4x5 is. So if you put the 6x9 back on the camera and the 150mm lens, you can carry the camera ready to fire and closed up. With a quick mount unipod it's the fastest interchangeable lens and back 2x3 camera ever made. The Topcon lenses are great. Just a hair less than Nikkor lenses. BTY You can unscrew the elements and mount your favorite optics on the Seikosha shutters.</p>

<p>The Horseman 2x3 has more movement than the Linhof 2x3 cameras. It is lighter and with its grip, it is a very fast camera when used with the rangefinder. In addition, the spare lenses are quite light. I would assume you do not need to use the ground glass for focusing since you mentioned how slow the 4x5 is. So if you put the 6x9 back on the camera and the 150mm lens, you can carry the camera ready to fire and closed up. With a quick mount unipod it's the fastest interchangeable lens and back 2x3 camera ever made. The Topcon lenses are great. Just a hair less than Nikkor lenses. BTY You can unscrew the elements and mount your favorite optics on the Seikosha shutters.</p>

I agree with Laurent. The Mutar is sharp! From what you say, you should stick with the 3.5. I have never seen any camera/lens that surpasses it. And the color of the image will be maintained between individual images unlike using differing cameras.

That doesn't look like fungus to me. It looks like something was sprayed on the lens and allowed to stay on it and damaged the coating. All fungus I have seen looks like spreading fillaments.

Do test the lenses and see if it impacts the image (don't forget the lens hood)

Tom: First of all, each lens has its own cam. The cam is located under the bed. Before retracting the lens stage, please check to see which cam is installed. The cams are color coordinated with the lens stage stops. You must pull the stage to the proper lens stage stop. The color coordination also includes the cocking lever on the lens shutter. It is very seldon adjustments are needed. If you have the correct cam, and the correct lens stage stop, and the correct lens, then the image on the ground glass should be sharp at the distance marked on the range finder scale. If not, someone has moved the stop and you need to reset them to the proper location. You have one of the most versatiles cameras ever invented.

 

Let me know if this solves your problem.

 

Regards

Jorge

Linhoff will not work. I don't know about Mamiya. Horseman and Graflex Roll backs works well

Both replys above are correct. You will have no problems with KEH

All I can say is WOW! When Rollei says no loss of image quality it's not bull!

Again, The Rollei has the ZEISS 120 S-Planar, the same lens as the Blad, but with 50 mm of extension where a blad requires much more to get real macro. Add an extension tube and the shy is the limit. This lens can be used retro mounted for > lifesize images. IN ADDITION, you can get a whole bed ot field of flowers ALL in sharp focus with no additional equipment by tilting the lens. Try to do that with a Blad!

The SL66 has interchangeable backs.

The focal plane shutter synchs at 1/30, but the leaf shutter synchs at all speeds with any flash unit. I prefer the Rollei E36RE.

with the 150 the best you can get is 1:3 or 0.33X on normal mount. With the 80 f4 better than 1:2 actually 0.62X magnification. Reversed much closer 1.2:1 with the 80 reversed. Anyway built in 50mm of extension.

Quality with the lens reversed is very high and even exposure.

I have not had the need to reverse the 50mm but it gets you 3.1:1. The quality of the 80 or 120 reversed is incredible.

If you read the manual, you will not have any problem. It is NOT intuitive. Lot of interlocks between the back, slide, shutter and cocking mechanism.

You will have no problem in flash shots. Otherwise use a suitable tripod with a Rolleifix.

Good luck

I started out with a Rollei SL66 with the 80 and 250, but sold it all to get a Rolleiflex SLX with the 80 and 150 in 1984, 5 years ago the SLX went bad and I replaced it with a 6003 and now I have the 50PQ, 80 PQ, 120 PQS, 150 PQS and the 250 PQ. Just when I thought I had all the lenses I needed, I bought a Rollei SL66 again with the 80 and 250. They both are such great systems, I figured since I did without one for over 20 years I would stop that. BTW The 6000 system has all those Hassy lenses and more. So you are not the only sick puppy. I should tell you about my Rollei sl35 system with all those great Zeiss lenses and my Horseman Technical 2X3 camera system with sharp Topcon lenses; Or the XLRF Graflex with those superb Zeiss and Rodenstock lenses... I could go on. It's all about who gets the most toys :)

Ray: Chambless Cine here in Georgia still recells SLX/600X batteries. ChamblessCineEquipment.com. You need to call them on e-mail at Jesse Chambless bolexcce@ellijay.com

The difference between them is the focusing helical on the Sinar lens. The XLSW has a focusing helical so there is no difference between the two except I am sure the german helical is smoother than the Graflex one.

KEH Does not charge more than market value. They set the market value. eBay sets the flea market value

See if this is not what you have.<div></div>

Look at the photos for auction item 330234365949 to see one.

"is a much more compacrt camera" That's not true. The Brooks is smaller than the XLRF but not smaller than the XLW. The replaceable backs on the XL are smaller than the Brooks' backs. So there.

Didn't you post a picture of Clara taken with the Original Rolleiflex also??