mecarter

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<p>In fairness I have not tried the Tamron, but recently purchased the Canon 100-400L IS II. It isn't cheap, but produces great images. The lens is very well built and weather sealed. Image Stabilization is excellent, and the lens is very sharp. On a 6D you'd get a very useable focal range. On the 7D the "multiplier" would give you a 160-640 focal range with IS.</p>

<p>Jim,<br>

I've shot the Blue Angels practice session at Pensacola twice, and in Norfolk, VA 3 times. Most recently I've used a 7D with a 70-200 2.8 IS lens coupled with 1.4x extender. That was enough reach on the crop body for most shots, but full frame might be borderline.<br>

I felt pretty good about my last visit. Set to Auto ISO Max 800, shutter speed 1/2000 for jets, 1/200 for props and helos. Autofocus set to AI Servo, point AF with auto expansion. Sky was clear and ISO ranged between 100-400, aperture 4.0-6.3 mostly. I left IS on mode 2 and had no problems.<br>

If you are at Pensacola, get there early and don't get over on the left side too far near the trees. Some of the low level passes get blocked by the trees.</p>

 

<p>I find a lot of reasons not to buy the new 6D, but one of the biggest is the SD only card slot. After spending a considerable amount on large capacity, extremely fast CF cards, I will not be purchasing SD cards to make a new body run.</p>

I'd have to agree with Alan. I have the 100mm macro and a 20D, and it would be more difficult to use a longer focal length. For shooting jewelry and collectibles with a lighting tent/dome, the 100mm with crop factor is almost too much at times. The lens is optically sharp and not overly expensive. I have also used it on an EOS 3 film body and found it to be a very adequate focal length.

Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. There seems to be a variety of approaches to use, but I am getting the message that 2.8 or wider aperture would be best to set the subject off from the background.

 

On the 20D I'll probably try the 50 closed down a stop and the zoom between 50-75 and maybe the 100. On the film body I will shoot some with the 100 (a pro friend will probably loan me his 135 prime). I have a couple of reflectors (gold and white) and the suggestion of a polarizer in case the water is too reflective was a good one.

 

I hadn't thought of using my 70-200 f2.8, but it is sharp and gives some useable range. Thanks again...armed with your suggestions, a nice location and an attractive young lady, all should go well.

 

Mark C.

I will be shooting outdoors this weekend, portrait photos of a friend's teenage

daughter. She has selected a location with a variety of backdrops including

water. I plan on using a 20D primarily, but will have an EOS 3 body as backup

that will I will likely use to run some ISO 160 film through as well. While I

have used a 50 f1.4 for indoor portraits with the 20D I am wondering if I can

get good results with the 100 f2.8 macro on the 20D.

 

Using a 28-75 zoom may also be an option, or borrowing (buying) an 85 or 135

lens. Any suggestions for best focal lengths to try for a variety of outdoor

poses? Space, backdrop and subject distance should not be a problem.

 

Thanks.

 

Mark C

Thanks to everyone for all the thoughtful responses. There is certainly a lot to consider.

 

1) I shoot all kinds of things, but I want the focal range and speed for shooting sports (primarily tennis and horseback riding both outdoors and indoors, and basketball strictly indoors).

 

2) I had considered the 1.4TC with the F2.8 version, but not the F4. However I had not thought about the 1.4TC with something that might give me approximately 200mm. Longest Canon EF lens I currently have is a 100 F2.8.

 

3) As suggested I called the store back and asked if they would take less. They refused and said the $500 was firm. It does appear to be a good copy, but after a little checking only $50-60 less than a new one at KEH or other mail order dealers.

 

4) I had borrowed a 75-300 with IS for a tennis tournament and appreciated the IS a great deal even though the lens seemed a little soft at the long end and a little slow throughout. For a temporary solution I thought the 70-200 F4 as an L lens would definitely have better resale value.

 

Looks like my best bet might be to control my itchy trigger finger and bide my time till I have enough to purchase the 2.8 IS or non-IS version.

 

Am I correct that in the US (other than the fly by night scams) the best price on the IS version is about $1650 and the non-IS version is about $1125?

 

Thanks again for making all the helpful comments.

 

Mark

A reputable local camera store has a 70-200 L F4 lens they are selling

for an asking price of $500. My preference is to purchase 70-200 L

F2.8 (still debating the IS or non-IS). However with the cost of

either of these lenses, it will be another 6 months or more before I

can afford to purchase. I am tempted to purchase the F4 demo so I

have a lens in this focal range to use in the interim.

 

My question is a couple of parts. First the lens is perfect

condition. No scratches, marks or blemishes on the lens body or

glass. I mounted it on my camera and shot a dozen photos at various

shutter/stop combos (they look great). The store has the original

packaging and the blank USA warranty cards. They say that I should be

able to send in the warranty cards to Canon and if necessary receive

warranty service using the receipt date as proof of purchase. Does

this sound correct?

 

Secondly, if I can afford to purchase the faster F2.8 version in say 6

months, does the F4 version hold its value enough that I will be able

to get a decent price for it?

 

I have heard and read lots of good things about this lens and other

than the extra stop it seems perfect.

 

thanks for your advice

 

Mark

As far as the batteries go...check out www.greenbatteries.com. They sell a single BP511A replacement for $21.95 or a pair for $40. I bought 2 six months ago and they charge well and last as long or longer than the Canon battery.

 

I have also bought AA NIMH batteries and battery holders/wallets from them, and have been very pleased. Shipping is quick and fairly priced.

I know you said Canon, but the Tamron SP AF 28-75mm f/2.8 is a sharp, constant 2.8 aperture with a decent focal range and it's not too heavy to lug around.

 

Instead of a 28-105, how about the Canon EF 28-135mm F/3.5-5.6 IS USM. I don't own one, but I've seen a number of photos shot with this lens and they are sharp. Aperture is a little slow, but the IS offsets this somewhat and the focal range is great.

 

By the way...you looking to sell the 16-35?

Greg,

 

I don't know where you live, but there is a store here in Richmond, VA that is reliable and stocks a fair amount of Canon & Tamron equipment. The store is called Simjo Photo. The Tamron lens you are looking for is $349.95. It's where I bought mine. They have a web site and an online order page.

 

The information to contact them is below. (Just north of Richmond, VA)

 

Simjo Photo

7086 Mechanicsville Turnpike

Mechanicsville, VA 23111

(804) 730-9332

www.simjophoto.com

 

Terry Simmons has owned and operated this store for about 20 years and is honest and reliable.

 

Mark

I contacted Canon Tech Support regarding the 20D and pasted the Chuck Westfall quoted clarification of sync voltage. Below is the question and answer from Canon.

 

*******

Thanks for your response. I guess I'm trying to define "high voltage".

You say "trigger voltage" on the 20D is 6V. The PC connection says 250V

and a link on the photo.net site from a Canon representative is below:

Chuck Westfall, Director/Technical Marketing Dept.,Camera

Division/Canon U.S.A., Inc., advises as follows:

"Canon Inc. confirms that there is no difference in sync voltage

tolerances between the PC socket and the hot shoe in terms of X-sync. In

the case of EOS-1Ds Mark II, EOS-1D Mark II, EOS-1Ds, EOS-1D and EOS

20D, the sync voltage tolerance is 250 volts."

It would seem from this statement that the trigger voltage might be as

low as 6V, but the tolerance is 250V. Here is the reference link.

http://www.robgalbraith.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=311261&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

I appreciate that Canon does not test product or specifications for

other manufacturers. I have those specifications and they are voltage

no greater than 9V. Just want to confirm that Mr. Westfall's statement

confirms an upper limit of tolerance for both the PC socket and hot

shoe.

Thanks.

Mark Carter

_____________________________________

 

Dear Mark Carter,

 

Thank you for contacting Canon product support.

 

The post by Chuck Westfall is valid and you may use anything which

produces less than 250V. Enjoy!

 

Thank you for choosing Canon.

 

Sincerely,

 

Jason

Product Support Representative

I agree with Ben...Just take a photographer with you. If you cover expenses, I'll be happy to accompany you. <gr>.

I have been looking also at the 1V-HS. One local camera store has a 1V-HS with PB-E2 for $950 used. It looks to be in excellent condition.

 

I asked why someone would get rid of such a nice piece of equipment. The reason was that the photographer took photos primarily of NASCAR races, car testing, trials, etc. and decided to go with the Canon 16MP DSLR. Explains why they kept all the glass.

 

Camera itself is clean and cosmetically excellent. The PB-E2 has some minor scuffing on the bottom mainly around tripod socket and some scratches on the end near the grip. Is this fairly priced? Would I be wise to ask to shoot a roll of film through it to see how it performs?

 

Thanks.

 

Mark Carter

Thanks to everyone for all the helpful commentary. I will call to find out what the warranty and return policy is for the refurbished lens and if it's fair I'll make the plunge. If not I'll probably get the "new" one.

 

Sounds like Canon is putting more reliable IS mechanisms in the lens, and if I have problems I should be able to get it repaired or replaced under warranty.

 

Looking forward to using the lens.

 

Mark

Thanks for all the responses. I really want to get an L class zoom in the 70-200 range (110-320 with 1.6 crop factor). Even though I've heard nothing, but good things about the 70-200 F4, I'd really like to get the extra stop the 2.8 offers. Thought while I was going for the brass ring I'd shoot for the IS feature as well.

 

Obviously the complexity of the IS mechanism/electronics is another failure point. Is this fairly prevalent for all Canon IS lenses (L glass or not)? If so maybe I should drop back to the 70-200 F2.8. It just seems that a high percentage of those that have used IS swear by it and wouldn't want to live without it.

 

I'm a big strong guy so lugging the glass and camera, and getting it steadily to eye level is not a problem. I've frequently shot a 300 F2.8 lens with and without a 1.4TC(effectively 420 F4) on a film camera with motordrive and handheld shots successly. Maybe with that history in mind the IS isn't that big a deal.

I am looking to purchase a 70-200 F/2.8 IS lens for a 20D. Adorama

has the new Canon USA lens priced at $1699. They also show a "Canon

USA Refurbished" lens at $1399. Does anyone have any experience with

Canon Refurbished products (lenses in particular).

 

$300 savings is significant, but if the refurbished is not a reliable

piece of glass then it's not worth it. However, I wouldn't be

surprised if a lens taken back in and reworked or rebuilt might not be

right on spec..?

 

Thanks in advance for your advice.

 

Mark

Not to be dense, but I have a Vivitar 285HV that I've measured voltage at 9V +/-. I'm now of the understanding that this will be safe for my 20D?

I'd have to agree with Peter on the Tamron 28-75 f2.8 Xr Di. It makes very nice images, relatively fast (aperture & focus), and is a size and weight that is very maneuverable. In addition to the relatively low price (Got mine for $350), there is a $40 rebate from Tamron through April 30th.

Yakim, I have no problem spending money on a dedicated flash for the 20D. My question was more along the lines of could I use the 285HV as a "manual" flash to learn about flash exposures with a DSLR. I want to understand how flash exposures differ from film with this medium, and then make an educated decision about the features needed in a quality flash.

 

I gather the 420EX would be your recommendation for a good flash unit. Camera shops around here push the 580EX for 20D compatible features. (that one is pricey)

 

Thanks. Mark

I recently purchased a 20D and have added the 50 f/1.4 and Tamron

28-75 f/2.8 lenses to the mix. Before I sink money into a dedicated

Canon flash, I'd like to know if the Vivitar 285HV is compatible with

the 20D. I've read some threads warning of possible high voltage

damage with some 3rd party flash units. Any advice or tips on using

this flash with the 20D would be appreciated. I'd mount it on camera

and try it, but am a little leary about damaging the camera.

Thanks again...very enlightening info and comments. The Canon adapter, would be my first choice if I decided to use the lens on the 20D. However calculating the quality and hassle factor, maybe I'll look for a deal on a long fast EF lens with IS.

I've had real good success with Greenbatteries.com. The price on the BP-511 battery was about $23 dollars or 2 for $40. They have a pretty good variety of batteries and power accessories. Quick shipping.

I already have the 300mm 2.8 FD and was trying to avoid buying an expensive EF lens with the same range and speed if possible. Thanks for the advice. Sounds like the Canon adapter would be the best way to go if it can be found.