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<p>I just read this thread and fixed my Manfrotto 410! Thank you so much. In my case, I peeled back the paper cover and put it back. Either way, this thread saved me shipping and service costs, not to mention the inconvenience. Thanks again, Ed.</p>

<p>I wait for the flash ready light to come on first. At 1/125, it usually won't fire the first time. If I keep advancing the film lever, it will eventually fire, but not at each push of the shutter button. No problems at 1/60.</p>

<p>No AF motor? Don't even want to hear about such a camera.</p>

<p>Hi All,<br>

I just got a Nikon FM. Seems fine, except it will not consistently fire a flash at 1/125, which is supposed to be the top synch speed. It does work fine at 1/60. Makes no difference whether sync cord or hot shoe is used.<br>

Has anyone encountered this? Does it need to go to the shop? Thanks so much in advance.</p>

<p>Hard to say, because all will work fine. If you want the meter in the camera, then M6. M4 and newer models are easier to load. M3 does not have 35mm framelines as I recall. As for lens choices, it depends mostly on aesthetics and your preferences. The CV 35mm f/2.5 is a great lens for not much money. I compared it to a 3.5 Summaron, and saw no differences in tonal quality, although the CV had better micro detail. The newer Leica and Zeiss glass would be the same or better than the Voigtlander products. A lot is said about Leica glow. I think part of it refers to subtle tonal quality and more gentle contrast. The other aspect is reflections from bright spots in the picture that might be eliminated with newer coatings. In some cases, this glow can be very pleasing, and the newest Leica glass would be less likely to give you that than older versions. The new products are sharper and more contrasty, however. Have you thought about film choices? That makes a huge difference. I like Kodachrome, Plus-X and Ilford Pan 50, as well as the T-grain films if I want asa 400. Good luck! There are not-so-great films, but not much bad Leica or M-mount equipment, if any.</p>

<p>The 35mm is kind of a natural on a RF because of the short focus throw and wide coverage area. Having said that, I don't always want the slight wide angle look of a 35mm. I like photographs that see the way my eye usually sees, and that means a 50mm. I use a 35, 50 and 90 on an M4. You can spend some time changing the framelines of your M6 and composing different images without using film, just to get a feel for the different focal lengths. Also, you can try this with an SLR and a zoom to perhaps better visualize them. To show more distance perspective, make use of lines, add a little drama, and get more in the picture, the wide angle is best. To not embellish, and capture a feeling just as you see it with your own two eyes (if not your brain), I feel the 50 is best. For isolating distant subjects, minimizing depth-of-field, and headshots, use the 90. Good luck and have fun.</p>

<p>Tri-X has always been too grainy for my tastes. I don't understand the appeal of grain. The T-grain films give you the extra speed without the grain. Is Tri-X better now in this respect than it was a couple of years ago? If you like grain, by all means, go with Tri-X. </p>

<p>Frank, You get good scans from color print film? What type of scanner? Mine are much better from positives.</p>

<p>You're right Russ. Don't have a D70, but I was under the wrong impression. It seems the main difference is the LCD size.</p>

<p>For color film, Kodachrome is by far, the most archival. It will probably reproduce the reds in the area you're photographing the best. I also like Velvia, as well as any of the higher grade print films from Kodak and Fuji. For black and white, Plus-X, Ilford Pan 50, T-Max 400. There are other good ones, but I know I'll get good results from those above.</p>

<p>I would consider a D70S, but not a D70 because of the addition of the Adobe RGB color mode. However, for $650, no way, unless you've got $400 worth of lenses in the package, and somehow, I doubt that.</p>

<p>I often use a UV filter. Sometimes, there is UV, and at any rate, it reduces the need to clean the lens. You clean the filter instead. I agree with Stuart on getting a multicoated filter. I believe Leica sells them as well. Any of the major brands such as B+W would be fine. Be sure to use the hood to reduce flare. Filter size should be 39mm, and indicated on the lens.</p>

<p>Film give two stops more contrast, so you have less chance of blown highlights in mixed lighting. It's physics, and nobody has found a way around it accept in post-processing. Also, film has archival qualities that digital does not; you don't need a machine to view the image, and Kodachrome slides stay the same for decades if kept in the dark. I have some approaching 50 years that look the same. Digital is convenient and has great manipulation potential in the digital darkroom. I'd give that a try, by the way. Shoot both film and digital. Get the F100. Also, check out the N80. It has great mirror dampening, and has most of the features even a pro needs. You can pick it up and use it without reading the manual. It's plastic, but so are many cameras, including parts of the F100. Best of all, good used ones are $80. The F100 is faster and uses AA batteries, big pluses, but more money.</p>

<p>Try keh.com, kamerakorner.net and cameraquest.com. Keep in mind that these cameras are not too expensive in working condition before you spend too much. I have one and it works great. The lens is sharp, and a little less contrasty than modern lenses which is great for black and white. The light meter works very well, and the flash shoe is off-axis enough so you don't have to mount the camera on a bracket to avoid red-eye. The viewfinder is bright and easy to focus. About the only disadvantage is its lack of interchangeable lens capability, but for all-around picture-taking, it's very good. Chances of getting is repaired is probably whether the shop in question has a parts camera they can cannibalize.</p>

<p>35mm f2, 50mm f1.8, 85mm f1.8, 75-300, 18-70, 35-105</p>

<p><em></em> 75-240mm f/4.5-5.6D AF It's sharp stopped down from about 75-135. Pincushion distortion too high at 135mm or so. Autofocus is slow. For use on an automatic camera, a zoom that only produces good images at f8 to f11 is a pain. You really have to use aperture priority on some of these lenses, and don't zoom out too far. The lens is light, but you're better off with a prime.</p>

<p>The Nikon FE and FE2 have aperture priority and one shutter speed that operates without batteries, 1/90? and 1/250 respectively. The Minolta HiMatic7 might be able to fire the shutter without the battery, because in manual mode, it seems the shutter is uncoupled from the meter. You need to transfer an EV readout to an appropriate aperture and shutter speed combination</p>

<p>I think film will be around a long time for its archival qualities. You don't need a machine to view an image. Silver hallide films are stable when kept in the dark. I have Kodacrhome slides from the 1950s that look great. It sounds like you don't need any equipment. If you have a 50mm f1.8, you already have a "really good lens." Do you have a good tripod? That's a big help in getting sharp images. Do your lenses cover the focal lengths you need? Keep in mind prime lenses generally perform better than zooms. I'd consider a DSLR for the convenience and the digital darkroom experience. It will give you autofocus as well. By the way, TTL fill flash is a great Nikon feature. I'd consider using it with something like a Metz unit off-camera to avoid red eye. I'm pretty sure you can perform this on your FM3a by metering the scene normally, and then cranking the ISO up two stops, to fool the flash and give you the proper fill-flash ratio. I do this with my Hasselblad 503CX with great results. I hope this helps, and am glad you're enjoying photography. Post a photo some time! Ed</p>

<p>Tripod manufacturers rate their tripods for load carrying ability, so check the weight of your equipment, and also determine whether you will be using any long telephoto lenses, say 300mm or more. It sounds like you would be well served with one of the carbon fiber tripods, such as the Gitzo Series 2 models. Keep in mind that light tripods are also top heavy, so be careful, especially if it's windy, but if you're hiking, you'll want light weight.</p>

<p>Regarding the M6 and M6 TTL, the TTL needs the battery to fire the flash. M6 does not. MP is a nice camera, but only if you have money to burn.</p>

<p>I might expect to see a few bubbles and specs, but this seems a little different, in that there are a number of spots in one area. Could they be reflections of some sort? I am guessing it's nothing to worry about. It will be interesting to hear comments from Zeiss. Bright flashlights do reveal things in lenses, but they cause reflections too. Hope this helps.</p>

<p>Is your D70 a D70s? I like the latter's Adobe RGB feature. Comparing my D70s images to those of newer cameras, I can't tell the difference if I plan to print no larger, than say, 8X10. The newer cameras have a really big advantage with high ISO capability, but I usually don't need it. If you really don't need the megapixels of the D80, I'd keep the D70 because of the CF card, and particularly if it's the "s" model. I'm having trouble reading my menus as well, but I don't use them much. Hope that helps. Check KEH.com, re: prices.</p>

<p>The M4 film advance lever with its plastic tip is easier on my thumb. That, and the 35mm frame lines, was one of the reasons I bought the M4. </p>

<p>I like my DR Summicron. Images are sharp with nice contrast. Stopped down past F4, the contrast is about the same as a modern lens. It will flare a bit more easily than other makes, but that's not specific to the Summicron. Bokeh is great. I have never used an Elmar, so I can't compare. The DR Summicron is not big and heavy. You can probably get the weight and dimensions through a Google search. Regarding price, if you're talking USD, that seems about right. I would look through any older lens with a strong flashlight for haze and other problems. With the DR Summicron, you can't go wrong, but your current lens might be perfectly adequate.</p>

<p>I've never had problems with my N80. Were the negs or prints underexposed (guessing negs)? You might consider checking the meter against your D70. I have a D70s. It, as well as the N80, has an excellent meter. If the meters agree, then there is probably no problem with your camera.</p>