kamil_oge

I learned it is circular CPL letters are engraved on the ring.

I bought it 2 weeks ago. I don't know it is circular or linear. It has two rings you can turn the outer layer on the fixed one. I guess this is not the difference between the circular and linear types.

I have re started to take photographs after I bought my Nikon D70. I

bought 70-300 G lens. Actually it does not feel like my old Nikkor

lenses but it is working properly in all conditions. Last sunday I

went to hunt photos in a beautiful landscape. The weather was perfect

and I used polarizing filter to augment the blue of the sky. This was

my first experience with a polarizing filter. My camera had problems

when focusing with filter. I could not autofocus with any setting and

any polarizing angle. When I dismantle it, there was no problem of

autofocusing. Does it happen with all polarizing filters or do my

filter has a problem?

I felt myself very happy after I read this article. After my observation about high speed flash sync of D70 up to 1/8000 sec. I am using it when I need. I did not have any problems with my old Metz 30 BCT4. Actually I don't know anything about the trigger voltage of that flash unit but it is working properly with my D70. Nowadays one of my friend will bring me an SB600 but I am sure that I will keep my oldie and continue to fire with it.

No Scott. The experiment was done with a manual flash (not dedicated). There are 4 settings for the light power and/or duration. All the experiment was carried on M setting this means that the flash unit was providing full power. The aperture was not changed during the entire experiment. Actually I don't know the duration of the flash during it is firing in the full power. Of course this is not a scientific experiment. All the experiment was done in my home but I tried to standardize all the contollable parameters.

If you try it with a manual flash with its full power and if you keep the aperture constant through the experiment, you will see that this camera can sync up to 8000.

When I first wrote the letter to the forum I had tried all the prarmeters I mentioned above and did the same experiment with two professional news photographers one had D1 and the other had EOS Mark2. D1 worked as D70 except it could sync up 16000. EOS cut the photo over 250.

After I read comments on the forum, I am satisfied that my observation on the flahs sync speed of my camera. Yet I could not understand how it does. As I understood it arranges the speed by inactivating the CCR. If it can do it like that, I could not understand why this system (all digital cameras) need a mechanical (or electro-mechanical) shutters? Actually I don't know whether they have a shutter that I used to have in my old FM2.

 

Thanks for everybody who has contribution

 

Kamil Oge MD PhD

I have my answer

 

1. Frank Skomial , jan 21, 2005; 10:14 p.m.

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00AXnh

Frank Had brief explenation in this link. Unfortunately to me, I learned that this was a known fact. You can also have those speeds by covering the back two contacts of your camera or your SB800 (www.forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1034&message=8243461).

 

2. I used almost absolute darkness and it is working up to 8000. After cowering your camera's back two contacts you can also have that pleasure. My chance is I have a 50 mm f1.2 lens from my old FM2 (was bought in 1983 and working perfectly)

 

3. Before cowering the contacts please refer the links above.

 

It is 1 am. in Turkey now. Good night to everybody and thanks for everybody who had contributed to this subject.

Bye

 

Kamil Oge MD PhD

Thanks Frank

 

I have my answer.

 

Best regards

Kamil Oge MD PhD

Yes I am trying to understand

 

1. Am I right when I am thinking this camera syncs faster then its factory specifications

 

2. How Nikon does not know and advertise such a speed. My first Nikon was an FM2 one of the first manufactured, Their hit was its x200 flash sync and 4000 shutter speed

 

3. I am trying to understand how does D70 do it. Because you must know that when the shutter speed increases actually the camera reduces the gap between the shutter blades that is why most cameras cut the photo beyond their sync speeds.

 

4. Isn't it interesting?

 

I hope now it became more understandable (may be wrong English but it is not my native language)

Hello it is Kamil Again

I have started to make experiments on my D70 and Metz 30 BCT4. I

tried to take frozen photographs of the propeller of my radio

control plane. It freezes it with 1/8000 bu thave ghost image with

1/500 on 15000 rpm. I performed the experiment of sync speed with a

Cannon EOS 1 Mark2. With its dedicated flash you can set shutter and

aperture to any measures you want with the flash but it changes the

speed to 250 as you fire. It doesn't let you a faster speed then its

sync speed. But we could cheat the EOS with my Metz so it did not

see the flash. This time it fires as you choose and mambo! it cut

the film and we could not be successful to go faster than 250. I

used Cannon's dedicated flash on my D70. As the camera did not see

it it worked as undedicated flash unit and shot in its full power.

It worked as same as my Metz. We used the same flash on D1 it

synched up to 16000. I am a neurosurgeon and I know

what "statistically significant" means. They are very few

experiments but I believe that the setup is correct. It is tested in

3 cameras (2 Nikon 1 Cannon) with two flash units. It is worhing

with Nikon D70 and D1 and they syncronize up to 8000 and 16000

respectively. Actually I don't know what to do with those speeds if

you can't syncronize the speed with the event which may need

dedicated equipment.

For the experiment step in front of a picture (I stood app. 1 meter

away from one of my mum' paintings) Aim the lens to one of the

figures and center it in the bracket. This will help you to take

almost the same photo. There are two extremes of my lens' aperture

one is 1.2 and the other is 16 therefore in the first experiment I

used 1.2 (full aperture)and set the flash to C3 (it is the fastest

but less powerful setting of 30 guide Nr Metz 30 BTC4.Set the camera

speed to 200 and start to take photographs and increase the speed.

In the first exposures it will be milk. Around 2000 some counters

will appear and you will have a bright but complete picture (not cut

as EOS1). On the other experiments I used 16 af f stop and do the

same procedure. Than I Changed the power of the flash and at last

set the power to M which is the most powerful and long flash. All

the experiments gave me the same result with my D70.

I am waiting your creative work and thoughts about it and also I

wonder Nikon will give any coment on this issue.

If anybody wants the original photos I may e mail them.

 

Sincerely Yours

Kamil Oge MD PhD

Hello it is Kamil Again

 

I have started to make experiments on my D70 and Metz 30 BCT4. I tried to take frozen photographs of the propeller of my radio control plane. It freezes it with 1/8000 bu thave ghost image with 1/500 on 15000 rpm.

I performed the experiment of sync speed with a Cannon EOS 1 Mark2. With its dedicated flash you can set shutter and aperture to any measures you want with the flash but it changes the speed to 250 as you fire. It doesn't let you a faster speed then its sync speed. But we could cheat the EOS with my Metz so it did not see the flash. This time it fires as you choose and mambo! it cut the film and we could not be successful to go faster than 250. I used Cannon's dedicated flash on my D70. As the camera did not see it it worked as undedicated flash unit and shot in its full power. It worked as same as my Metz. We used the same flash on D1 it synched up to 16000. I am a neurosurgeon and I know what ?statistically significant? is. They are very few experiments but I believe that the setup is correct. It is tested in 3 cameras (2 Nikon 1 Cannon) with two flash units. It is worhing with Nikon D70 and D1 and they syncronize up to 8000 and 16000 respectively. Actually I don't know what to do with those speeds if you can't syncronize the speed with the event that may need dedicated equipment. If anybody wants the original photos I may e mail them.

I have a D70 and I am using my old Metz BCT4 flash. I wanted to

see that the photograph must be cut in shutter speeds faster

than 500 but it didnot. Then I made an experiment. With 50 mm

1:1.2 lens I set the aperture to 1.2. I set the flash power to M that

means it will deliver the maximum light. And took my son's

picture from 2 meters distance. The result was a white screen. I

started to increase the speed to 640 and so. First pictures

started to come speeds around 4000 and I have clear

photographs at shutter speed of 8000!!!. I told this to one of my

professional photographer friend who suses a Nikon D1. He told

me that this is against the nature of the camera. Yes it is I also

know that but he saw it and performed the same experiment with

his D1 using my flash and he could go up to shutter speed of

16000. This is the experience that we could not find an answer. I

am planning new experiments to prove the syncronization

speed. Does anybody have an answer to it or knows something

about the situation.