terry_smith2

<p>You might find the Tamron 2.8 Trio to be more interesting. All are 2.8 across their focal ranges.</p>

<p>17-50/2.8</p>

<p>28-75/2.8</p>

<p>70-200/2.8</p>

<p>Start with the middle one. After you've had for a month or two, ask yourself what direction you're missing the most. Do you more often want a longer or a wider lens? Buy that one next and then go for the third one as funds permit. You may also want to get a 50/1.8, 50/1.4 or 85/1.8 later on as a fast prime for portraits.</p>

<p>There's no lack of shops selling second hand gear in Europe and a fair nuimber of them have websites. It's really important to take shipping costs into account because they can make a good price look uncompetitive compared to local shops.</p>

<p>Then there's ebay. I recently bought a 1D from a seller in another European country at a good price but the shipping costs to me were over the top. Luckily I have a friend living in the seller's country and the seller shipped to my friend at local rates. My friend comes to where I am twice a year and he brought it with him.</p>

<p>Another possibility is to travel to the shop and pick the item up.</p>

 

<p>I had the original 14/2.8 L and the 17-35/2.8 L and replaced them both with a Sigma 15-30/3.5-4.5. I wasn't using the 14 enough to keep it any longer.</p>

<p>Thank you, MAK! That would be the top on my short list. In spite of the horribly slow AF, I still love my Tamron 28-105/2.8 SP and Canon has never produced anything quite the same.</p>

<p>Stephanie...</p>

<p>That lens is one of the worst EF zoom lenses that Canon has made. It's right down there with the 18-55 non-IS, 22-55, the 28-80 USM II & III, all 28-90's, all 28-105/4-5.6's, all 35-80's, the 35-105 and 35-135 lenses with twist zoom rings, 38-76, all 55-200's. all 80-200's that take 52mm filters, 100-200A and the 100-300 (standard version without the red ring),The optical formula was improved in the USM version of the lens you are looking at and then carried forward to the II and III versions, both with and without USM. The IS version is also about the same optically. This is the bottom ov Canon's optical barrel.<br>

I don't know what you're looking at spending and if you are looking at only used or not. Any of the other five versions of the Canon 75-300/4-5.6 would be better. The Canon 100-300/4.5-5.6 is about the same optically but better mechanically. The best lens of it's type on a budget is the old 100-300/5.6L (with the red ring) which is optically light years ahead of the rest of the pack, all makes included. Sigma and Tamron have 70 or 75-300/4.5.6 lenses. For used lenses, look for the Sigma 70-300 APO Macro or the Tamron with 58mm filter size, which is common with many Canon lenses. The later Tamron lens uses 62mm filters, a size that Canon does not share.</p>

 

<p>I wasn't very pleased with the original 24/3.5L because I didn't think it was wide enough for architecture in cities and that was on a film body. I sold it after about 250 exposures. On a 1.6 crop camera, the 17 becomes something like a 28, so a small step backwards compared to using the 24 on full frame.</p>

<p>It will work with a D2000, D6000, D30 and D60. It MIGHT work with a 1D1, which I intend to prove in another month or so. I have three other Sigmas from the same generation that I'll be trying on a 1D1 late in May and I'll let everyone know if they work or not.<br>

As for the Sigma 14/3.5, it's a perfect wide prime for a 1.6 crop body SLR. The lens is very sharp in the center and very weak at the edges but you won't be seeing any of the edges on a 1.6 body. For a cheap wide angle kit, that lens plus a D60 body can't be beat.</p>

<p>+++++.</p>

 

<p>Upgrading to a higher-end product will in fact make it easier to get the quality that you are looking for. The downside is that you'll find an even bigger and steeper learning curve that will take you longer to master. Do you have at the moment a large investment in Nikon lenses or those made for Nikon cameras by others such as Tamron or Sigma? If the answer to that is 'yes' and the lenses are at least semi-pro, you may be better off keeping the Nikon body. If the answer is 'no', you have a different world of possibilities in front of you. A used Canon EOS 5D (original version) or 1Ds or 1Ds2 would be much better than an entry level body. If you make the changover, don't buy the cheapest kit lenses but start out in the middle of the range. One of the best is Canon's 85/1.8 but the other fixed prime (non-zoom) lenses are also pretty good and will give you more possibilities than any 3.5-5.6 kit zoom lens like a 28-80. There are some forgotten gems in the original EF zoom lens lineup that are decent or even very good and not at all expensive any longer. You can move up to pro lenses when you have some technique behind you and have developed your own personal photographic vision.</p>

<p>Ok, while you are trying to figure all of this out, put your camera in the Av (Canon designation) mode. That will let you choose the lens opening and the camera will give you the correct shutter speed to match it. Take shots of the same subject from the same place but progressively opening or closing the lens and take a good look at the results. There will be differences that you can easily see from one shot to the next. Shooting with the lens wide open (at the largest f stop, the one with the lowest number) will give you more softness than using nuimbers in the middle or the top of the range.</p>

<p>The suggestion above about getting some photographic education is a very good one. You may want to start with a general introduction to digital reflex photography book that you can find in places like Borders, Barnes & Noble or similar. Master the techniques in the book and then move up to something more challenging.</p>

<p>As to you original question of "Any suggestions where to go from here?", may I suggest Paris? We're having pretty nice spring weather at the moment and I think you'ld really enjoy it. ;-D)</p>

<p> </p>

<p>All of your lenses were introduced back in film days, so there would be no problem from that standpoint about getting a 5D.</p>

<p>Maybe the Sigma 15-30/3.5-4.5 would fill the bill. A 28 or 35mm prime lens would also be a nice addition.</p>

<p>I think you would do better to buy the Canon 35-70/3.5-4.5 (not the "A" version) or better yet, the 28-70/3.5-4.5, either version. The first isn't bad, the second is extremely good. Neither are very expensive today and you may find one attached to an EOS 600-700-800 series body for almost nothing. The Canon lenses I mentioned give you full AF and exposure controls, something you will never get with a MF lens.</p>

<p>I think you need to fill the gap between the 18-55 and the 70-300. You can do this for very little money with the oldest Canon zooms. The 28-70/3.5-4.5 is a little gem optically and the 35-105/3.5-4.5 is also quite good. Both have metal mounts but the older AF which is slower and noiser than today's lenses. Then look for a prime like the 28/1.8, 28/2.8, 35/2 or 50/1.8. If you can find one and have the extra cash, the original 50/1.8 with the metal mount is the winner over the 50/1.8 II with the plastic mount. They are both the same optically but the original goes for at least twice what the later one sells for.</p>

<p>John Bellens, I'm rather surprised that you didn't suggest to the OP that he look for a clean and low mileage 1Ds2 like yours. Looks like it would fill most of what he wants nicely. Pro build, full frame, lower MPix count than the 5D2, pro AF system... The only major drawback compared to the 1D3 is the frame rate.</p>

 

<p>I've got a 7n and a 3 plus a 1D and a D30. I previously had the 10s, from the generation that replaced the 600 series. There's a world of difference between the 10s (tennis, anyone?) and the 7n. The 7n runs circles around its older rival on features and flexibility and it's a bit smaller and lighter. On the other hand, the older camea is more solid and goes at 5 frames per second. That said, it's no contest and the 7n is the winner.<br>

The 3 is from a different solar system. Bigger, heavier, more flexible, weather sealed, etc, etc, etc and so on and so forth. The biggest drawback is that they left "quiet operation" out of the feature set. It sounds every bit the the pro machine it is.</p>

<p>You didn't say what other lenses you already have, what type of subjects you mostly shoot and if money was an issue or not. If money is an issue, I suggest you keep the 16-35 L and get (at least temporarily) the Sigma 24/1.8. OK, it's no L lens but it's very good for the price and the best of the three Sigma 1.8 wide primes. I bought one about three years ago. It doesn't get all that much use but it's there when my 17-35/2.8 L is a little too slow for the available light and it gets the job done.</p>

<p>Or you could look for the older Canon 100-300/5.6L lens, which has the best optical performance for the money in it's zoom range. It will also autofocus at the long end, which the Sigma you mentioned will not do very well or at all because it is slower than 5.6.</p>

<p>Out of curiosity, where are you buying this Sigma lens from that it is almost free? An individual? Ebay? A camera shop? an internet retailer that you have never heard of before? Chances are that if it is almost free, it is either the last one the have or it has a problem. Maybe the problem is just the poor optics that have caused a number of them to be returned. Maybe it's a mechanical or electronic problem with that particular lens. Maybe it's stolen. Make very sure you know what you will be getting before any money changes hands.</p>

<p>I went from a 10 to a 3 and never looked back. I still have the 3 plus the battery grip it still gets used for slides on a regular basis. At that price with the motor drive, you are robbing the shop ;-D)! ! ! Don't pass it by.</p>

<p>I think what you are looking for is the 220 EX It works fine on digital bodies as well as film cameras. Have a look...</p>

<p>http://www.canon.com.au/products/cameras_lenses_accessories/speedlites/speedlite220ex.aspx</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Stop and think for a moment.</p>

<p>That 1D3 costs about three times what your 40D cost new. Are you really going to get your money's worth out of such a large investment? You could better expand your photographic horizons by investing the same amount into better glass. Or try a used 1Ds, 1D2/2n, or even a 5D and put the difference into glass.</p>

 

<p>Dan;</p>

<p>I'm afraid to say you didn't get it quite right. I had this happen with my D30 a long time ago. I did all kinds of interent searches and read through an untold number of photograéphic and other books before finally arriving at the solution.<br>

The camera and all of it's lenses must be sent to Rainbow Brite, Box 1305, Rainbowland. She is the only person in the universe who can exorcise the evil spirit of Murky Dismal from the affected gear and return it to full functionality again ;;;-D)))</p>

<p> </p>

<p>It's the <em>rising </em> value of the yen. As the value of the yen goes up, it takes more pounds, dollars, euros, etc. to buy the same amount of yen than previously. If the yen is declining, it takes <em>less</em> of other currencies to buy the same amount of yen than as before.<br>

That said, the internet is a big place. Use it to find the best deals in the EU and then spend your money where you will get the most for it.</p>

<p>The Tamron and the Kenko are the...same...teleconverter. The name was changed to protect the guilty, or something like that. Just like the Tamron 19-35/3.5-4.5 is actually a Cosina in fancy dress.</p>

<p>"I don't know what to do now.... should I get the Canon 70-210 F/3.5-4.5 EF lens for $150 and an IS lens? Or do I not need both? th 70-210 does not have image stab, right? I'm new to photography, isn't the IS more of a must? STILL need your help. Thanks BTW."</p>

<p>Chere Lucie;</p>

<p>Sans souci. Don't let the lack of IS bother you about the 70-210 USM lens. Short of various L lenses (50-200, 70-200) you won't find anything better in that focal range from Canon or anyone else unless you're shooting film where the Sigma 70-210/3.5-4.5 APO Macro is a little better. Relax, don't worry, be happy. For CAD 150 that seems to be a good deal. People don't NEED the latest gadget to make good pictures. Try this one out and learn from it. If you are happy with the focal range, think of getting a used 70-200/4 with or without IS. If 210 is too short, think of the 70-300 IS (not the older 75-300 IS), a 70-300 Sigma APO Macro or the old 100-300 5.6L for very good image quality.<br>

Bonne Chance! ! !</p>

 

<p>Dare I say it, but Nikon also has center pinch caps as well as Hama. There are a few older Canon zooms (28-70/3.<br>

5-4.5, 28-80/3.5-5.6, at least the original metal mount version) that really profit from center pinch caps.</p>

<p>I saw the 1D3 on several price comparison websites in the UK with the lowest price being GBP 2235, so about USD 400 less than at B&H.<br>

I also found the 1D3 on the Golden Arrow Electronics website in the UK for USD 950 with a 1Ds3 at USD 1350! The name of the place is Golden Arrow Electronics in Poole. The problem is that the real Golden Arrow Electronics in Poole only deals with marine installations and has nothing to do with consumer electronics. The one selling non-existant cameras is a fraud.</p>