jeffrey_douglas

I have owned both the 20D and 30D, and now own the 40D.

I have only been out once with the 40D shooting my daughter's daytime soccer game and I have never had so many keepers with the 20D or 30D.

It's still early but so far I am pleasantly surprised with the auto focus accuracy of the 40D and that's the main reason I bought it.

I have a 20D and a 30D and the 20Ds LCD is much more acurate than the 30D.

Unless you have the 30 you probably don't know what this question is in reference to.

The LCD on the 30D quite often makes you think that something is wrong with the

exposure, even though you know from the settings and histogram there's probably not.

I have heard the same from many other 30 owners on other forums.

It's quite annoying at times.

Check this tread

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=269916&highlight=sigma+500

+dg+super

I have shot teams in gyms with a couple of AB 800s with 60" umbrellas. Placed correctly the AB's with umbrellas can easily overpower the ambient light in the gym, if you are not trying to light the entire gym.

I use one on the team and the other to light the background, on the second light if the ceiling is white or light I don't use an umbrella, I just bounce off the ceiling for fill on the background.

Joseph I, Apr 09, 2007; 03:26 p.m.

When all else fails, read the _____ manual!

Joseph,

FYI-sometimes it's very difficult to find what you are looking for in the manual, if you don't know what you are looking for.

Not trying to be a smart a$$ but it's true. You can spend hours if you don't know how to reference what you're looking for in the manual.

Thanks

I've got one of these. It works pretty well.

http://www.alzodigital.com/online_store/digital_camera_porta_flash_accessories.htm

ALZO DIGITAL PORTA-FLASH SOFTBOX

* 15" x 15" light weight Easy Open softbox (No Rods)

* Setup time is less than 3 minutes

* Wire frame structure eliminates speed ring and steel rods

* Easily attaches to ALZO Digital Flip Bracket or a light stand

* Universal flash mounting bracket adapts to most flashes

(see below for compatibility)

* Optional 1/4" x 20 screw mount for flash attachment

I picked one of these up off of Ebay along with softbox, lightstand, and Strobe almost new for $169.00.

Trying to find out if anyone knows a way to use the batter pack with other strobes like the AB 800.

The system below plus a 24' x 24" collapsable softbox

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?

O=Search&A=details&Q=&sku=298206&is=REG&addedTroughType=search

You would probably get more resposnse here:

http://www.texasphotoforum.com/forum/

in the wedding forum

Yes if you format your card you will loose the CW photo, at least on my Canon 20d and 30d.

that's how it works. It's not stored in the camera's memory,

OK, now I'm with you.

With the digital asset management system that we use I am able to map certain fields from

Photoshop directly into our system as files are loaded in, so if they enter it I won't have to.

Getting basic info from our art buyers and art directors after the shoot ends is very

challenging. If I can get the information that I need placed in PS metadata fields at the shoot,

such as model/product names and usage info, that would cut a big chunk of time out of my

workflow.

Usage is purchased on all photography, otherwise there would be no point in having the

pictures taken if the company could not use them.

As for the rest of your post I have no idea what you are talking about.

I do appreciate you helpful intentions though.

OK here's the deal. Hopefully this is the correct forum for this question.

In my day job I am a Digital Assets Manager for a very large cosmetics company.

My job is to keep track of all company images and artwork. This means getting

images into our DAM (digital asset management) system with keywords and usage

information and such.

I am in the process of trying to sreamline our workflow with outside

photographers, we don't have inhouse photography.

I am thinking about asking photographers to start putting certain information

about the shoot in PS metada fields. The information would be like model name,

product name, usage info and such.

I'm just wondering if this is common practice these days or would I be breaking

new ground here. Would this be benificial to the Studio or just additional work?

Any knowlegeable info from studio photographers appreciated.

When using a gel with on camera flash to balance flash and ambient lighting.

Do you use the custom white ballance or just choose one of the settings on the

camera like tungsten or fluorescence?

If you do a custom white balance do you take the picture to be used for the

white balance setting with or without the flash and gel?

Thanks

http://www.alzodigital.com/online_store/digital_camera_porta_flash_accessories.htm

www.alzodigital.com/

ALZO PORTA-FLASH MINI SOFTBOX

I got one recently so far so good.

I'll be shooting a few 8U basketball T&I pics in a elementary shool gym this

week. I shot a few test shots last night with a 30d and Sigma DG Super with

omnibounce. Of course the ambient background light was a different color from

the the flash. I was trying to avoid the dark background bright subject effect

so I was shooting around f/4 and 1/60. I also had very undersirable shadows when

I did not balance the ambient with the flash, even with the omnibounce.

I am thinking that if I use 2 AB 800s with umbrellas I can throw enough light on

the background to overpower the ambient.

Any other suggestions appreciated. I have shot T&I on outdoor sports but this

will be my first time shooting in a gym.

Thanks

I was out shooting some ice shots today and got back and discovered a rather large digital artifact in one

of the images. I was wondering if I should get rid of the card or just reformat it and keep using it.

The card is a Lexar 1GB card that I've had for a couple of years.

The picture was not important just wondering about the card.

Camera was a Canon 30d with a Sigma 70-200 2.8 lens.<div></div>

I bought a refurbished Canon 30D from National Camera Exchange for exactly $905.00

shipped. It has a 1 year warranty and was seemingly new in the box with everything that the

new camera would include. The box did have a "refurbished seal". I have bought other

refurbished electronics and have never had a problem. The guy I bought it from shipped it

UPS 2 day delivery. The shipping cost was only $10.00 and the purchase was made over the

phone. I have had the camera only since 12/23/06 but so far I am very pleased. The guy who

I dealt with there was Steve. I actually saw the camera on their Ebay store and at the time I

was told they only had two so they sold me the one not listed on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Professional-10x10-Wedding-Photo-Album-With-Mats-

NEW_W0QQitemZ290021142065QQihZ019QQcategoryZ73463QQcmdZViewItem

All pages of the album are mounted. Mat slides into each mounted pages of the album so

your pictures are NOT permanently stuck to the album. That way, pictures can be rearranged

at anytime in the future.

But from a real (non ebay) vendor.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Professional-10x... QcmdZViewItem

All pages of the album are mounted. Mat slides into each mounted pages of the album so

your pictures are NOT permanently stuck to the album. That way, pictures can be rearranged

at anytime in the future.

But from a real (non ebay) vendor.

I am looking for a good quality, reasonably priced, album with the slip-in inserts.

Any suggestions on a spefic book and company will be greatly appreciated.

Just wondering how most of you guys go about manual focusing on the 20d. Since they have taken away

all of the focusing aids (split image and/or microprisms) and the focusing throw on AF lenses is very short

how do you guys effectively manual focus? My eyesight isn't what it used to be either.

I am trying to get into the habit using manual focusing more when appropriate and I am wondering if

there are any tricks to be used.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

I often shoot large wedding groups (up to 20 people) with one AB 800. But as others have mentioned a lot depends on the variables already mentioned.

I generally use one AB 800 located right next to the camera placed up high on a stand. This is very simple lighting used for the fast pace of weddings. It works for me though.

Submit some images that you reduced or enlarged and sharpened to size.

Submit the same image once and have the lab do their thing.

See if there are any noticeable differences in the images.

I have discovered that on images smaller than 8x10 I can sharpen the larger image and have smaller images printed from that image and all have been great. without any additional sharpening. For example I sharpen the 8x10 and then crop to 4x5 without sharpening the 4x5 and get great prints.

I also use one lab for youth sports that I submit one image and have multiple sizes printed. I've never noticed any difference in the prints, even though only one size was actually sharpened. I always tell them not to mess with the images at all, no color correction or sharpening. What I submit is what they print.

I may not have such a discerning eye as most but it's worked well for me. Do some simple tests and get them printed.

Hope this helps