chris_sullivan1
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Posts posted by chris_sullivan1
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Congratulations on your new camera. I've been very pleased overall with the way my D2 has performed for me. I use a 15" powerbook G4 (1st generation, mac OSX 10.4) and the camera works great right out of the box.
I had some trouble initially getting Leica USB Remote, an application that allows you to remotely control the camera from your computer and save images to your computer's hard drive. The trick for me was to trash the Leica preferences in your computer's user preferences.
As far as the application to download photos, iPhoto will be fine for file importing and management. Don't waste your time trying to make any photo adjustments with iPhoto, the tools aren't nearly as effective as Photoshop. Good luck and enjoy your camera.
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Thanks for the response. I ended up trashing the preferences in my user prefs library named leica USB and the app works. I have to do this every time I launch the application now though. Oh well, it works again.
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Over the weekend, I shot a short film with a friend who used a Nikon D200 to
capture a time lapse series directly to his laptop. The Nikon application
allowed him to adjust the interval and duration of his shots, which ended up
with really impressive results.
I recall the application "Leica USB Remote ver. 1.2" having some similar
features and wanted to give it a try, but the app doesn't run anymore. It used
to run on my mac with OS 10.3, but it now crashes with Mac OS 10.4 and the user
forums indicate I'm not the only guy with this problem.
Does anyone have a fix for this application, or know another application that
will allow me to interface my Digilux 2 with my mac? Is there a similar
program for the Digilux 3 that might work? Thanks in advance.
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Thanks for everyone's info. Your advice helped me decide to buy the enlarger. V35, Variable
contrast module, 40/2 Focotar in great condition, single glass negative carrier, later model
philips lamp. Also included was three easels (saunders) and a stainless print washing bin.
Picked up the package for $700. If anyone has a lead where to find a Focotimer, I'm going to
need one.
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I am going to go look at a Leitz Focomat V35 enlarger with a multi-contrast head for sale tomorrow and I
would like to know if there is anything I should look out for? The lens is the 40/2.8 Focotar and I am told
that the Auto-focus works perfectly. If there are any quirks or issues that I should be looking out for, I
would really appreciate hearing about them. Thanks in advance.
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I'll see what kind of deal I can get on some rental gear. While getting in the water is great in
Huntington Beach, I'm going to a big wave contest at Half Moon Bay. Not the conditions I
want to be swimming around in.
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I'm afraid I don't have the funds to be making an investment in a hard-core sports SLR
package for one event. My main function is to be able to get some good shots with my Leica
MP and buy a longer lens that will be useful to me in the future. I get the impression that the
short tele isn't going to be the best to document the event, but I suppose it's better than my
50mm.
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I've been told that I'm going to be about 100 ft. from the surfers.
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The truth is that I was looking at adding a longer lens to my bag, but don't have enough
faith in my focusing abilities with the .72 VF and a 90mm lens. The 75mm summicron
seems to have the right combo of size/weight/speed and a frame line I have some more
confidence shooting with.
The only 90 I was really interested in was the 90/4 macro with the close-up kit. According
to the reviews, it seems the collapsible lens is worth a try if you don't need the speed.
Would anyone choose the 90/4 macro over the 75/2?
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I'm having some trouble finding a pre-owned 75mm Summicron for sale. Is the lens so good that nobody
wants to sell them, or is anyone using them? Would this lens be adequate for shooting from a boat at a
surf contest? Thanks in advance.
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I was told by my local camera shop that Rollei is making some really great low-speed B&W films, as well as
some IR film. Has anyone had any experience with this film, or know what the difference between a
panchromatic and orthochromatic film is, exactly? Considering the Ortho is double the price of the Pan,
what would be the benefits to the ortho?
I'll add that I'm one of those unfortunate photographers that doesn't have access to a darkroom, so any
film I shoot is trusted to my local processing guy. In the event that my limited of control over the
developing process is going to nullify any advantages to using the expensive film, please let me know.
The manufacturer website wasn't as informative for me as I hoped. Any experience or advice on the
subject would be greatly appreciated.
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Will the new 17mm f2.8 be compatible with my MP? I'm assuming there will be an
accessory viewfinder, but will it be for the corrected digital crop, or will it
be a true 17mm finder?
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I did in fact buy an Anthracite MP with the matching leicavit, just recently. I liked the classic script engraving and different color the camera was painted. To buy a new MP with a winder would have cost me more than I paid for the Anthracite version, and the camera qualified for $500 "Leica Dollars" promotion to which I used on a C-Lux. All in all, it was a good buy for myself and the camera is getting used as a camera, not as a museum piece. I'll post some pics of it after it gets some beauty scars.
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That article gives me a much better understanding of what I was asking about. I'm much more at ease knowing that my gear is working properly. Thank you all for your advice.
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Excuse me if I am not explaining myself correctly. I am going to take a picture of a tree that is 50 yards away from the camera. The ghost image displayed in the viewfinder does not indicate that the tree is in focus when the focusing ring is set at infinity. This would lead me to think that either the rangefinder isn't displaying the ghost image properly or the lenses I use don't have accurate footage counters.
I work in the film industry where you use a measuring tape to check the distance of a subject for accurate focus. If the distance from the camera to the subject is 8ft, then you can be sure that if you set the lens of a video camera to 8ft then the subject will be in focus. My concern is that if my tree at 50 yards needs the focus ring backed off from infinity, then how far off are my focusing distances for closer subjects?
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I am a relatively new user of Leica M cameras and noticed something strange
about the fousing range on my lenses and what the viewfinder says should be "in
focus". To be more specific, on my 28mm/2.8 elmarit the focusing ring says that
everything past 12ft should be at infinity focus. However, when I look through
the viewfinder and look at an object at 40ft away, the split-image in the
viewfinder is not mated in focus. I tried this with my M6, and now with a
brand-new MP with the same result. I also tried this with a 50/1 noctilux and
found the same to be true of objects lying over 30ft from the camera. Any
assistance on the subject would give me some more focusing confidence. Thanks
in advance.
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Thank you all for your responses. Looks like I'll be keeping my focus on taking pics instead of buying gear.
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I'm taking a trip next week to Italy and France next week and was wondering what
the Leica M market is price-wise compared to the US market for used bodies and
lenses. Are there any places where I would be able to find some gear at a good
price or something that's not normally offered in the US?
I'm considering upgrading to a black paint M6 or MP before I leave, but I'm
reluctatant in hopes that I'll find a better deal overseas. Any comments or
directions where I can find the best deal would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
for your time.
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From my experince, my Digilux 2 makes automatic focus and light adjustments to provide a presentable image for the operator to shoot with. I have found that if I'm taking a picture of something under particularly bright conditions, like the reflection of the sun off a car's window, the camera makes the sound you are describing to adjust itself to an appropriate meter reading and to provide you a viewfinder image that is visible and not over-exposed. I wouldn't worry about the sound unless your camera doesn't seem to be making adjustments.
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Thank you all for your responses. Based on the sample images everyone sent me, it is obvious there was something improperly done to my film. I'll give IR another try when I have another $40 to blow on a roll of film and processing. Until then, back to negatives.
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I just shot my first roll of Kodak Ektachrome EIR infrared film
through my m6. I shot it at 200 and used a yellow filter per Kodak's
recommendations. After speaking with my former photo teacher, he said
the yellow filter was supposed to keep my skies blue, but it didn't.
The film was processed in E-6 and the entire roll turned out magenta.
Even the leaders were magenta.
I took the slides and scanned a few of them to make color adjustments
in photoshop, and some turned out alright, but is this magenta normal,
or did the lab foul something up? Variations between yellow filter
and no filter were minimal. Thanks in advance for anyone able to shed
some light on the subject. Below is a pic I was able to adjust in
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Does anyone have any experience with the underwater kit for the
digilux 2? The only images I was able to find on the internet was the
shots on the leica website. While they were nice, I would like to see
if anyone bought one of these things and used it, and how the images
look.
Next question is where can I find one to rent for a week? I'm going
on a trip to Hawaii and would Love to rent one for my trip. Thanks!
Zeiss Sonnar 85mm lens in ZM mount
in Leica and Rangefinders
Posted
I was fortunate enough to get to shoot the 85/2 for a month on a work project. The lens was
fantastic for shooting a traveling theater performance in low light with Kodak p3200. The
lens was virtually flare free and I shot the entire time without a hood. The mechanics of the
focusing ring feel very SLR-like, and the rangefinder wasn't perfect at infinity focus with my
Leica MP. I would love to compare it with the 75/2 asph and the 90/2 APO ASPH sometime in
the future. If you would like further impressions, let me know.<div></div>