anton_v.
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Posts posted by anton_v.
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Ok, I think how to do cost analysis.
Suppose the defect that renders a given 35mm sensor unusable occurs with average intensity of x times per 35mm sized sensor. Since the defects occur uniformly on a wafer, the number of defects per given area has Poisson distribution with intensity x. Thus, for a given sensor to be usable, it should have no defects. That happens with probability of Exp{-x} (from Poisson distribution). The price of the 35mm sensor is obviously defined as (Price of a 35mm-sized area of the wafer)/(Probability it has no defects)=y/Exp{-x}, where y is the price of the 35mm-sized area of the wafer.
Suppose now you want to find out the price of the sensor that is a times bigger than 35mm-sized sensor. Its price will be given similar to the formula above by (Price of a a*35mm-sized area of the wafer)/(Probability it has no defects) = (a*y)/Exp{-a*x}.
Thus, the sensor that is a times bigger than 35mm will be a/Exp{-a} times more expensive, which is for a=2 14x times the price of the 35mm sensor!!!
The calculation may be different given different thresholds on the amount of bad pixels on the sensor. Can anyone tell what is the standard for sensor rejection?
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It is an excellent portrait lens. You will notice that it produces low-contrast images which is especially nice for skin tones. It is not the best performer for landscape as focusing at infinity produces soft images. It is best for close-up to mid-range work like portraits.
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I was shooting in Yosemite last month and met this photographer who
said she was shooting in b&w raw mode on her Canon 5D. I can't stop
thinking of what advantage the raw b&w provides over shooting color
raw and then converting to b&w. It seems as it would give you the same
result as just converting to b&w. Am I missing something?
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Trilok, the choice of the tripod depends on the equipment you are using and the conditions it will be used under. What's the focal length/shutter speed will be common with this tripod? Will you be hiking? Is the weight an issue for you?
Bogen 3021 is known as one of the most versatile ones. For my MF system, I use Gitzo 1325 CF tripod since weight is an issue where I go. But it's awfully expensive as any CF (carbon-fiber) tripod.
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Don't get fooled by this "deal". Amnova is not a good brand of gear. They will use "professional" everywhere just to attract the customers and customer reviews are most likely spoofed. Go to b&h or adorama and look at bogen, gitzo and slick tripods. Tripod is not a piece of gear where quality may be compromised.
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Not only the lenses look and constructed differently, but later models have better coating which went i believe 1-3-7 layers from Super Takumar to Super Multi Coated Takumar to SMC Pentax. I'm about to get the results from my side-by-side comparison of 2 135mm versions of 135mm macro: Super Multi Coated Takumar and SMC Pentax. From my earlier observations Super Multi Coated Takumar version of 135mm has very low contrast rendering which makes it not very useful for nature/landscapes, but very nice for skin/flesh tones. Will let you know how the comparison goes.
Anton
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Used Speedotron gear is a no-brainer in your budget. It can be had for 20-30% of the price of new at e%%y, it's cheap to repair, and accessories are available for rent in all rental studio equipment shops. AB is not nearly as reliable as speedotron.
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yes, nonmetered prism will fit P67II. This question has been asked many times b4.
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I buy lots of new stuff from Adorama. I've always been happy and they never tried to sell me extras. Only time they called me was to ask for address verification. However, I purchased a used lense once from them and was VERY dissappointed with the rating. I neve buy used from them again. KEH is the best place for used equipment. Their ratings are very, very, very conservative.
Anton
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I'm having a trouble fixing the savage background so that the roll
doesn't unwind on its own. How to fix it? Otherwise the roll keeps
dropping the background under its own weight.
Any ideas? Anton.
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I used Graduated ND and Warming filter (2 filters at a time) on my 45mm lense with the adapter reduced to two slots. I experience no vignetting.
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Nice shot. What film scanner did you try to use for the negative?
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Andrew, I have Minolta Multi Pro and I cannot report any unsharp scans with the glass holder. Here is one of my recent scans. It is a scan of Fuji Provia 100 6x7 size. I have scanned it at 3200 DPI without sharpening, ICE, etc, just plain scan with some color correction. I want to underline that there was NO sharpening applied. Below is the fullframe scan downsized for you to see the 3 selected areas:
<p><img border="0" src="http://www.cmb.usc.edu/people/valouev/sharp_test/big.jpg"></p>
Further are 3 selected areas at 100% of original size (no downsizing, no sharpening applied):
<p><img border="0" src="http://www.cmb.usc.edu/people/valouev/sharp_test/crop1.jpg"></p>
<p><img border="0" src="http://www.cmb.usc.edu/people/valouev/sharp_test/crop2.jpg"></p>
<p><img border="0" src="http://www.cmb.usc.edu/people/valouev/sharp_test/crop3.jpg"></p>
Would you say I am having sharpness problems (the scan is done with glass holder 16x multisampling)?
Anton.
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I just can't see how the glass carrier doesn't hold film flat on your Minolta. Are you sure your unit is not faulty. Given what you have told us there is a good chance you will be upset with the quality of drum scans. Perhaps you need to move to MF or LF to get better scans. These days the only reason to have a drum scanner is to scan really dense slides. Anything beyond 4800 dpi on 35mm is unattainable with film. The film (not the lense!) is the resolution limiter in MF. I have tested performance of some of my MF Pentax 67 lenses. Given a high quality high resolution lupe, I can see CONSIDERABLY more detail on ground glass then on the image captured on 67 astia slide. And this is when I use heavy Gitzo CF tripod, etc to minimize any vibration.
Get a LF camera and get some good pictures instead.
Anton.
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any number of slots can be added/removed (you will need to purchase a screw kit from them for around $5). Order from Calumet - they have the cheapest pricing on this system.
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FWIW you would not not need WA hood for 55mm. I use regular holder with my Pentax 67 45mm lense and experience no vignetting. Save your money for some filters.
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Can you explain the purpose you plan to use the binos for? It could aid in answering your question.
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The only reason I would replace a drum scanner with the ccd scanner is if I was not shooting color slides. For negative and B&W ccd scanners like Nikon 9000, Microtek 120 or Minolta Multi Pro will do just fine. But you will have a hard time with dense slides on either of them. PMT has unsurpassed dynamic range which essential for slide scanning.
Anton
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Most reliable repair will be at Pentax Colorado. My own 135mm macro (old version) suffers from low contrast and overexposure at large aperture values.
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For general purpose and birdwatching I would suggest Pentax 8x42 DCF HR II. Amazingly sharp, light and high quality. $209 @ adorama (add to the cart first). I compaired several and they are on par with zeiss and swarowski that are 3x-4x times more expensive. Pentax never stops impressing me.
This model will work well for handholding. If you need something stronger, you will need to mount it on the tripod.
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Let me try again:
<p><img border="0" src="http://img.photosight.ru/2005/01/20/734875.jpg" width="752" height="940"></p>
Anton.
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Minolta Multi Pro does an amazing job with scanhancer.
Check out one of my recent scans of Fuji Neopan:
<p><img border="0" src="http://img.photosight.ru/2005/01/20/734875.jpg" width="752" height="940"></p>
Anton.
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Hi, I am looking for inexpensive stores to
buy used photo equipment in Los Angeles
area. In particular I'm
interested in professional studio lighting
and MF/LF gear. I would appreaciate your
advice.
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I meant of course for mounting Leaf shutter lenses
Save Medium Format - why not a 10 MP back for $3000?
in Medium Format
Posted