jan_nielsen

Thanks a lot guys.

I do not see the problem in Liveview.

I think it is the mirror not lifting completely. When I do mirror lock up, the mirror does not lift up the last 3 millimeter. My other camera (D600) lifts up completely.

So I will go to Nikon. Hopefully they can fix it fast and for a reasonable cost.

 

PS: So the lower part of the picture "comes in" at the top of the camera/sensor ?

 

Regards, Jan

Here a little less darkness at right.

 

Photos were shot with different shutterspeeds and apertures.

I.e. 250/8 200/7.1 1000/5 640/5.

The level of darkness varies - also even though shutter and aperture is the same.

Hi.

What is wrong ?

I saw the issue for the first time today.

It does not happen to all photos.

It can happen for single-frame, but also when shooting a sequence (Ch). When it's a sequence it can happen for any of the photos in the sequence.

It can happen for stills and for video.

It happens on both my 24-70/2.8 and 70-200/4.

So I guess it's a problem on the body (D800) ?

Is it a sensor-issue ?

Is it a shutter-issue ?

Is it an aperture-issue ?

 

Thank you,

Jan

 

 

What gives best imagequality?

D800 in dx mode at 12mm

Or

D800 in fx mode at 18mm

<p>No, the hole next to the powercord is for the umbrella (7mm). The sync-socket is the one that is above the "E" in "SWISS MADE".<br>

The cable you need could be this: http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod11582.htm<br>

The one I link to has a 3,5mm jack in one end and classical Elinchrom in the other.<br>

But they also exists with a pc-sync (which can connect directly to some cameras) in one end and classical Elinchrom in the other. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>No, the hole next to the powercord is for the umbrella (7mm). The sync-socket is the one that is above the "E" in "SWISS MADE".<br>

The cable you need could be this: http://www.digitalcamerawarehouse.com.au/prod11582.htm<br>

The one I link to has a 3,5mm jack in one end and classical Elinchrom in the other.<br>

But they also exists with a pc-sync (which can connect directly to some cameras) in one end and classical Elinchrom in the other. </p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi.<br>

I have a strap which screws into the tripod mount of my camera. I like this solution when my vertical grip is <strong>not</strong> mounted. But if I mount the vertical grip and then connect the strap to the grip, it's very akward to hold the grip in vertical position. The big screw is now in the palm of my hand, which is not good.<br>

Has anyone figured out a solution for this ?<br>

I guess many straps, cameras and grips has this problem, but if it's important then my combination is: Strap: Sun-Sniper , Camera: Nikon D800, Grip: (MB-D12-like Vertex), Lens:24-70.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>When you are shooting sports you don't need VR due to the faster shutterspeeds. So you could save money and go for a used AF 80-200 2,8.</p>

<p>I have the D300 and the D800. On the D300 I can hear a short highfrequenced sound. On the D800 I can't hear anything. There's no indicator (as a lamp or something).</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

I often run a slideshow in the livingroom on the TV-screen. I would like to have a square tv (full-HD 1920x1920). Why ? Because then a photo would have the same physical size regardless if it was in portrait or landscape mode. As it is today - with these widescreens - I want to move closer to the screen whenever a portrait shows up, and move back whenever a landscape shows up.<br>

Do you know uf any square Full-HD tv's or monitors ?</p>

<p>"The iso limitations of crop cameras can be circumvented by the avilability of faster lenses: 50/1.4 and 85/1.4."<br>

Only when you're shooting at 1,4 or 2,0. Not when you want greater depth of field (aperture 2,8 to 22).</p>

<p>Weight: <br />35/1,8 = 200g, 50/1,8 = 155g, 85/1,8 = 380g. Total=735g<br />24-70/2,8 = 900g<br>

Size:<br />I would say the three primes takes up the most space in the photobag.</p>

 

<p>OP didn't have the same problem with D300 and SB800, but I did: <a href="00ULx2">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00ULx2</a><br>

And is it the foreground (in flashlight) or the background (not in flashlight) that is too warm ? Or both ?</p>

<p>I think you should choose from what you do the most - which is shooting kids - not weddings. I haven't shot a wedding, but I would think that it would be difficult with fixed lenses when you have only one body. So I would go for a zoom solution. This now gives the question: 17-55 or 24-70 ? If you were to shoot many weddings I would say 17-55, but it sounds like you will be shooting ONE wedding but MANY children. There fore I would go for the 24-70. I shoot playing children myself and often use the 60-70mm end (on D300) for portraits. I rarely miss something wider than 24.<br>

Now the question is 24-70 or 70-200 ? It's hard to use 70-200 indoor (unless you have very big rooms). 24-70 can be used indoor and outdoor. </p>

<p>I don't know the Sigma lens but a very different way to get the 120-300 mm reach could be to buy a DX-body (D300s) and use it with the 80-200. <br />Pros: This solution is nearly half the price.<br /> You could have the 24-70 mounted at the D3s at the same time.<br />Cons: You wont get the excellent good ISO-performance that the D3s has.</p>

<p>If price is an issue, you could also go for a used AFS 18-70 mm DX. After what I have read it has the same optical and build quality as the 16-85. The 18-70 doesn't have VR though.</p>

<p>Yes, I'm from Denmark. Now I remember that it's "isopropopylalkohol" - quite an international name actually.<br />Others say that that using a pencil eraser could help.</p>

<p>Have you tried cleaning the contacts between the body and the lens ? I have had the same kind of problems you described (with D300 and 70-200mm and 24-70mm), but after I cleaned the contacts I haven't had any problem. I don't know the english name for the cleaning liquid, but it can be bought at the pharmacy and is generally used for cleaning electrical contacts.</p>

<p>I have a D300 and am very pleased with the Auto-whitebalance on it. I seldom have to set the WB manually.<br />But when I use fillflash (either the built in flash or the SB800) in sunlight I have found out that the photos come out too yellow. It's because the camera is choosing WB=Flash when using fillflash, even though the subject is in bright sunlight (which is the mainlight).<br />If I manually choose WB=sunlight the photos come out right.<br /><br />I discovered this in Disneyland where many shots are of the park and figures but when I have persons in the frame it's nice just to pop-up the little flash so shadows around eyes are filled in.<br />It would be nice not having to manually change WB in these situations.<br />I shoot jpg for these situations and don't want to go raw.<br />Picture Control was set to SD (standard).<br />Is there some way that I can set the camera, so it's priority is still the auto-WB even when the flash is popped-up ?</p>

<p>Isn't this a "feature" in Lightroom 2 (not in D300 firmware) ?<br>

I use Lightroom 1 and have D300 with firmware 1.10 (A and B). And rotation is working fine.</p>

<p>Hi.<br /><br />The only time I use manual focus is<br />- when shooting at very dark places (i.e. nightphotography on tripod with several seconds of exposure).<br />- when shooting through a cage (i.e. an animal in a zoo) so the focus won't be on the cage, but on the animal.<br />When do you use manual focus ?<br>

I have AFS-lenses, but never override autofocus. If needed I just focus and re-compose. <br />When do you use override of autofocus ?<br>

Thank you<br>

Jan</p>

<p>If "carry everywhere" means bringing it to places with dust, sand, mud then get the D300 or D2X due to the weather sealing. (I'd prefer the D300).<br>

If "carry everywhere" means lightweigt then get the D90 or D5000.</p>

<p>Joseph, how big is this coupon in real life ? (I will try to make the same test when I get home).</p>

<p>Question:<br />Shun said: "Keep in mind that underexposure greatly contributes to noise."<br />I actually thought that we should underexpose one stop to get better shadowdetails in PP (when shooting raw) in PP ?<br />But is that only true for ISO below 1600 (on D300) ?</p>