alfonso_rubio

<p>Another point to keep in mind is that we are reaching phisical limits. Diffraction, at the pixel size of a full frame, 20-30 mpix, begans to be noticeable at f/10.</p>

<p>You can work the maths (if you like ;-)), or use the calculator at </p>

<p><a href="http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography-2.htm">http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/diffraction-photography-2.htm</a></p>

 

<p>I use Tamrac lens cases. All the time my lenses are in the case, and depending on the ocasion, I take my camera, plus a couple of them. This gives me flexibility.<br>

Why Tamrac? simply because I started to buy Tamrac, and the attachments are incompatible between Tamrac and Lowepro. If I would start today, I would probably Lowepro because you can buy a vest in which you can attach the lenses, and this is more convenient for changing lenses on the go.</p>

<p>IMHO diferent systems show their differences in extreme/special situations: a decent point and shot (I use a G10) can give very decent results in 80-90% of the circumstances. You see the difference of a D5 MarkII (which I also use) in the other 15%: big cropping, real macro, whatever you may think. <br>

For me, this is a fact. If you want to compare, and make a difference, show the performance in the other 15%. And be happy using a camera that you can carry on most of the times.</p>

<p>I have observed rencently that the metadata for the lens is lost. I am using Canon 5D II and Panasonic G1. I can find the focal lenght, but no data about the lens. I work with Lightroom, but looking at the images using Windows directly gives the same result.<br>

Any idea? Thanks</p>

<p>I would love to have more flexbility in the printing module, like using two or three literals (name, date,..) and the ability to locate them (one centered, size 10, another right justified, size 8), plus the ability to use/create frames (not much, but certain anything more interesting than a line. I think this is easy ;-) </p>

For that effect -blured background- you must use a tele wide open. I would recomend the 85mm or the 70-200 2.8

I also have an Epson 2400 printer

I am about to buy a new computer, mainly for photo management and procesing. My

main application is Lightroom, althought I use Photoshop CS2 from time to time.

What are the characteristics of an ideal computer, specially graphics card? I

will buy from DELL.

 

Thanks

I have a Epson printer RS2400, and I use two workflows:

 

-Printing directly from Photshop CS-2

-Save as TIFF after editing, and print it using EPSON software

 

I work in Adobe RGB.

 

My problem is: when I print from Photoshop, the global quality og the image is

better: detail, color equilibrium, but the global brightness and color

saturation of the image is somehow reduced.

 

Any sugestion?

 

Thanks

I have read somewhere that the quantity of information in a slide is equivalent to about 22MP. Having sayed that, I think that 8MP is enough for 8"x12" prints. I am using a 10D, 6MP, and I do nice A4 prints -sorry, this is Europe-.

 

If you are looking to quality, then why don't have a look to the 5D?

 

Happy shooting

I have used Elements 3 and it is a usefull tool. Everything I needed. I use the raw convertor, and levels mostly. Sometimes I think if the full version has something important, but for me, up to now, Elements is enough.

Maybe you find this usefull

 

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/bangla-worked.shtml

Bags are like cameras, in the sense that they have multiple add-on, and two different brandas are incompatible: try to attach a Tamrac lens holder to Lowepro bag, and you will see what I mean.

 

In my experience, backpacks are uncomfortable when you are changing lenses: you need to pull it out very time you change. I am using a Tamrac velocity, and I like the concept: you can open it easily, and it is comfortable for a not very long walk. I combine it with a Tamrac 517 for short, sunday morning shootings. I like this last one because I can attach one or two lens holder, depending on the day.

 

If you want a "pro" information, you can look at

http://www.luminous-landscape.com/essays/bangladesh-bags.shtml

 

I like the comparison with Imelda Marcos and the shoes.

It is supossed to be differences, but I am still trying to master Elements. Something making a difference could be the ability to use Camera RAW format, but you can use it with Elements 3.0. I recntly upgraded -i.e. bought it because there is no rebate for users of 2.0-

 

I founded very helpfull "Digital Photo Retouching" by Chris Tarantino. It gives the complete workflow using Elements. I strongly recomend it.

I am an owner of a 10D, and I enjoy digital photography very much. I have recovered the pleasure of postprocesing (aka developing in the old times)

 

Saying that, I think that the 10D isn't yet the final product. Just two months after I bought the 10D, the 300D came into the market. It is almost the same, but a very lower price. Also 20D came recently, lighter and more powerfull. And both these cameras can use the digital only lenses, which are not available for the 10D.

 

My bottom line? Go to digital, but either 300D or 20D. Probably the lens limitation in the 10D is too strong, and will make you spend more in lenses.

Try this

http://luminous-landscape.com/reviews/lenses/canon_lenses.shtml

 

al least it is a guide, althought personal