peterafle
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Posts posted by peterafle
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<p>For the D90, it's all explained on page 147 of the manual:<br>
You'll need a type C mini-pin HDMI cable, which is readily available cheap on the interwebs.</p>
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<p>Since no one else mentioned it, what about using a split or graduated Neutral Density filter for situations like this? Seems like it's likely the only reliable way to set a single aperture/shutter/ISO combination to capture a scene with such dramatic differences in metering between land and sky. Just my $0.02...<br />PR<br>
EDIT: Oops -- I see Dan South raised the filter solution, so put me down as a +1 for that approach.</p>
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<p>One more...<img src="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/9tIpN4GSND5xQoN1-cUgYoOyaxLtnOQzFFk7MNcpZmU?feat=directlink" alt="" /></p><div>
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<p>Rachel - I'll add my welcome to the wild and wooly world of Photo.net. I had a great time shooting my son's Little League games when he was playing. I found that when his team was batting, I was able to get great action shots with my 70-300 or 18-200, standing near 1st base. When they were fielding, I would climb to the top of the bleachers on one side or the other and shoot standing up from there, or shoot from one side or the other of the backstop. Be prepared to work hard! Here's a typical game album -- with a few team shots at the end. These suffer a little bit because they were all shot in NEF, and uploaded with Picasa's default processing, which stripped out the in-camera exposure and WB tweaks, but you'll get the idea. I did use flash for the team pics, and they turned out great with a little post-processing -- I made prints for each kid, and the parents were all thrilled. <br>
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<p>The one thing no one's mentioned is motion sickness. Everyone reacts differently, but looking out the side of a maneuvering aircraft through a telephoto lens can be a prescription for quesiness. Hopefully you're not susceptible, but it's worth being aware of...<br /> Here's a link so some pics I took from an ANG Blackhawk during the Gulf oil Spill (almost all taken with my humble 18-200 VR):<br /><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/109919031226520071352/CODELAerialShots?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJib0rb4qNL3ew&feat=directlink"> https://picasaweb.google.com/109919031226520071352/CODELAerialShots?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCJib0rb4qNL3ew&feat=directlink</a></p>
<p>PR</p>
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<p>My "process" almost always starts with breakfast!</p><div></div>
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<p>That just looks like water vapor/condensation coming off a hot and sweaty fighter in a slightly cooler room. Not uncommon and completely natural (you'll see it during any football game in cool weather -- it's the same phenomenon that lets you see your breath on a cold day). I think it's actually a pretty cool effect in this shot. If you want to avoid it, don't shoot fighters right after they get out of the ring, or avoid the kind of backlighting setup you used here.</p>
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<p>I've never used tubes with an autofocus lens, but you do lose a significant amount of light with the tubes. With the longer combinations, you're likely dropping below the light limit at which the AF system can get a good lock on your target. Here's the information from Kenko on the<a href="http://www.adorama.com/KNAETSDNKAF.html"> Adorama website</a> (<strong>emphasis added</strong>):</p>
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<p>Kenko's Auto Focus extension tubes are designed with all the circuitry and mechanical coupling to maintain auto focus and TTL auto exposure with most Nikon lenses given there is enough light to activate the cameras AF system properly. <br /><br />Please Note; <br />1. When using extension tubes the lens will not focus to infinity. The focus range will be greatly limited to a very close focusing distance. <br /><strong>2. There is light fall off when using any extension tube, sometimes the equivalent of 3 f-stops of light is lost when using multiple extension tubes together. This light lost can affect the camera's ability to auto focus. Manual focusing is recommended should the lens begin to "hunt" (not lock onto the subject).</strong><br />3. Nikon "D" information is not transmitted because the lens is focusing closer than its programmed to focus. <br />4. Kenko Auto Extension Tubes are not auto focus compatible with Nikon AF-s (Silent Wave) lenses, manual focusing is required with these lenses. </p>
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<p>+1 for the GGS glass screen covers. I've had mine on for a couple of years with no dust and no issues. @Johnny -- are you sure you got the right one for your camera? Mine fits perfectly over the D90's LCD and doesn't interfere with any of the controls.</p>
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<p>Darren -- is there any chance you might have activated "Mirror Lock-Up"? I don't know if it's an option on the D80, but that would explain not being able to see anything through the viewfinder.</p>
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<p>It's been a long time since the last time I was able to take part in the weekly exhibition here, but I've been enjoying everyone's fabulous submissions each week. Here's a shot from Monday's festivities in our neighborhood. We didn't attend the big fireworks in town, but had our own fun in the parking lot.</p><div></div>
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Nikon Forum
in Nikon
<p>Also, there are explicit, illustrated step by step instructions here: <a href="00W7km">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00W7km</a></p> -
<p>Yes, you have to take the door off to mount the grip. But it's easy to do, and there is a slot on the grip where the door is stored, so there's little danger of losing it.<br>
Also, many of us have found that once you start using the grip, you get used to it and you rarely if ever want to take it off.<br>
PR</p>
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<p>Terrific images from everyone today! Mine is from our family Thanksgiving dinner a few weeks ago -- my 3 year old niece found a carrot that looked like a boot... </p><div></div>
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<p>Michael -- it would be great to know more about your project -- what are all these images going to be used for?</p>
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<p>I don't want to deal with that for thousands of images. It would take forever just to load them into PS.</p>
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<p>To me, this begs the question -- If you are dealing with thousands of images, and you don't want to deal with individual processing or conversion for all those pictures, why are you shooting RAW/NEF at all? You are going to have to convert them all from NEF into JPEG or some other format anyway to print or post or otherwise use them. Would it be simpler to just shoot black and white JPEGS? </p>
<p>Also, you might want to consider using ViewNX2, which is free from the Nikon website -- it will display your NEF files on your computer with the proper in-camera settings (in otherwords, black and white will display as black and white) and will also let you apply settings to batches of images all at once. The newest NX2 version is very capable and a lot faster than the old version. You may decide you don't need LR at all.</p>
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<p>+1 for Nikon's free ViewNX2 -- it's a surprisingly versatile program, and displays NEF files in accordance with the picture control/white balance information encoded in the camera (which ACR can't do.)<br /> PR<br>
EDIT: Here's the link for ViewNX2 -- a huge improvement over ViewNX, and still free: <a href="http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Imaging-Software/NVNX2/ViewNX-2.html">http://www.nikonusa.com/Nikon-Products/Product/Imaging-Software/NVNX2/ViewNX-2.html</a></p>
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<p>+1 for Matt Laur's suggestion. Also, the newest version of Nikon ViewNX2 is free, and will do everything that Picasa will do, only better. The most important feature in this case is that it reads all of Nikon's PictureControl settings in the NEF file, so the image on the screen matches what you saw on the camera's LCD when you took the picture. Picasa just can't do this, and applies some other, mysterious default profile when it converts the NEF files to view on screen. </p>
<p>I use Picasa (it it tough to beat for quickly getting images up on the web), but instead of using it for everything, my current basic RAW/NEF workflow for goes something like this:</p>
<p>1) Import images with Nikon Transfer, renaming them in the process. I also use Transfer's capability to simultaneously back up the images in a second location on a separate hard disk. </p>
<p>2) Quickly review and edit the images in ViewNX2, deleting the unusable ones, and marking the best with 4 or 5 stars (4 for "images worth sharing on Facebook or Picasa" and 5 for "images worth processing and printing and/or sharing on Photo.net"). I may also do some basic tweaks (white balance, minor exposure tweaks, even a little sharpening) using ViewNX2's sliders. [Any more advanced retouching, B/W conversion, or prep for printing is a separate exercise, and happens later in CaptureNX2.]</p>
<p>3) Filter the view in ViewNX2 to show only the starred images.</p>
<p>4) Output all the starred images to JPEGs in their own folder.</p>
<p>5) Open Picasa, and sync only the new JPEG folder to the web. [i also use Picasa to add a copyright watermark to my images as they are uploaded. This is one capability I *really* wish Nikon would add to its software.]</p>
<p>It sounds a lot more time consuming than it really is. For a typical day's shooting, this basic screening takes me less than an hour, and the results are much better than what I get with Picasa alone.</p>
<p>Best of luck!<br>
PR</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>It's been a while -- great to see all the inspiring images this week...<br>
Here's one I took a couple of weeks ago. This is the legendary Phil Alvin with the Blasters, live at the Brixton North Bay in Redondo Beach, California. In stark contrast with most venues in the Washington, DC area where I live, the small clubs in California had no problem with my taking pictures during live shows. </p><div>
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<p>I have the Meike (sp?) version and it works like a charm -- I keep it on my D90 full time. I stick with Nikon batteries as I have had a couple of duds from third parties.</p>
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<p>I have the Meike (sp?) version and it works like a charm -- I keep it on my D90 full time. I stick with Nikon batteries as I have had a couple of duds from third parties.</p>
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<p>Keeping with my "edible" theme from last week -- a freshly caught brown trout, smoked over charcoal and apple wood twigs and eaten with old friends and cold beer.</p>
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<p>It's been quite a while since I've been able to post anything here -- but I've been lurking and admiring the always extraordinary offerings! The inspiration I gather here never fails to help get me through the rest of the week...<br>
Favorites so far include <strong>Jeannean's </strong>damsels, <strong>Daniel's </strong>blacksmith, <strong>BM's </strong>Parisian sky (wow!), <strong>David J'</strong>s froggy portrait, and <strong>Keith </strong>and <strong>Roberta's </strong>buggy macros -- but everyone's shots are special and marvelous as always. <br>
With the U.S. Labor Day holiday and cookouts galore coming up this weekend, here's a shot from a friend's party a couple of weeks ago. This guacamole burger tasted every bit as good as it looked... :-) </p><div>
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<p>Plastic or metal aside, the amazing thing is that BOTH those cameras (and more remarkably the lenses, scratches, cracks and all) still take more than acceptable images after all that abuse (see "Part 2" of that video). </p>
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<p>Randy -- I also have large hands. I have the external grip on my D90 (not the Nikon, but the Mieke knock off), and I never take it off. It makes the camera much more comfortable to use, and I have never had any issues with the low battery indicator. Frankly, I never see the low battery indicator, because with two batteries in the grip, I can take well over 1000 shots without hitting the "empty" point. (I don't know the actual number, because I've never completely exhausted both batteries before recharging them).</p>
Hooking up D700 (D-90) through HDMI to see on TV
in Nikon
Posted
<p>If you're using Nikon ViewNX, just hit the "F" key when looking at the image and it should go full screen for you.<br>
PR </p>