alec1

<p>Jim: I would suggest another option for you. Since you state a primary use of this camera is to be using multiple lenses, I recommend you spend some more time looking at Pacemaker Speed Graphics, and in particular the Side-rangefinder models. They have 2 advantages which the Super Speed does not have. (1) the side-rangefinder can be adjusted (without the need for a cam) for almost any lens you want to use on that camera. Those cams are not easy to find, and more than not are not accurate. You can adjust the S-R using a screwdriver with the bed extended - no need to open the rangefinder itself (2) with a focal plane shutter, you eliminate all problems with shutter release because your camera has one built in for the F-P, and these cameras allow use of lenses without shutter. Think of the savings just in shutters. The F-P shutters are reliable, and easily adjusted (by a lot of repair persons in the US), contrary to that 1000 shutter which was never reliable.<br>

Re: Fred Lustig, he is indeed still in business (he just repaired a dropped Crown for me- received back last week). No one knows Graflex better than Fred, plus he has the largest stock of NEW PARTS of anyone in the known Graflex World.<br>

Good luck in your search. If you have further questions, come on over to the Helpboard at Graflex.Org.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I recommend Paul Ebel. See this thread:<br>

http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00EDBE<br>

He does excellent repair work at reasonable prices. I have 3 Hassy Lenses there for CLA right now.<br>

He is also an expert at repair and maintenance of LF Lenses too.</p>

 

<p>I just had mine done by DAG. I highly recommend it. Its the way Leica orginally intended the viewfinder to be before they went cheap on us.</p>

<p>I just had mine done by DAG. I highly recommend it. Its the way Leica originally intended the viewfinder to be before they went cheap on us.</p>

<p>If you will look around you'll probably find some old Kodak selftimers made to attach onto the end of a cable release. There are types - geared and pneumatic. Both work perfectly well for what you are seeking to do.</p>

<p>If you wear glasses you should consider the rubber eyecups DAG is now offereing. They are real leica eyecups Leica once offered in the 1970s. They fit every M camera ever made. The cost is low $38.</p>

<p>The best choice is the Contax TLA 100 cable. Cheaper and more manageable than the Nikon cable.</p>

<p>I've found the first speeds to go are part of the self-timer. If it works smoothly and easily goes through the whole cycle to trip the shutter, the other speeds are probably good too.</p>

<p>Kodak made film clips especially for this purpose. They were called "Color Clips" even though they were stainless and not necessarily for color film. Go figure.</p>

<p>You see them built onto the holders Kodak made for dental film process where a rod was used with 2 clips on the ends. They also came in boxes of 10.</p>

<p>The advantage to them is they don't puncture the film, yet provide a firm grip. You want to place a clip on only one corner of the film so that the film hangs with one corner down. That way it is easy to periodically go by and touch that bottom corner with a paper towel to absorb the drop of water that drained there since that will be the last place to dry.</p>

What do you mean by "sinking"?

Ask Richard Ritter. His site: http://www.lg4mat.net/

The simple answer is "No". So forget it.

Sam: It's just the proportions. But, you can conclusively determine it for yourself by just measuring the ground glass on the back. It will be awful close to 3x4. You can instantly see it won't cover a 4x5.

 

Yes, a 2x3 is more useful, depending on the model and the back on it. If it has a Graflok, then you can use roll film holders which use 120 film. Still lots of that around, and it is easier to process yourself.

 

You won't find any Polaroid back to fit your camera. It is just not a good deal.

Sorry, but you've got an older 3x4 Pacemaker Speed Graphic. If it was advertised as a 4x5, you have been cheated. This camera is virtually useless to you because (a) it's almost impossible to find ANY 3x4 film, and (b) this camera does not have a Graflok back enabling you to use a roll-film back (if you could even find one - they are rare).

 

I suggest you send it back for a refund if you can.

 

To find out more about these cameras, go to Graflex.Org. You can post your questions about Graflex cameras on the Helpboard there and get imput from a lot of Graflex owners. Good luck.

Ashton: the term is Graflex. No such camera as a "Graphlex"

Glad you got it, George. Not pleasant to waste bulbs on guesses.

 

Remember Graflex.org, and its Helpboard. Lots of users to help you there.

I second Paul Ebel too. I've sent 3 lenses to him.

Are you looking to have the whole camera tuned up, or just the lens/shutter?

 

If the latter, then try Paul Ebel in Wisconsin. He is very reasonable and highly rated.

 

Info about Fred Lustig is in the Graflex.org helpboard. Use the search feature. Call him first. He doesn't use email. The reason he is so good is that he has the largest supply known of Graflex parts in case something has to be replaced.

 

Yeah, I know its supposed to be Las Vegas. Just a disconnect between brain and finger!

Well, let's start with the terms: it's a Pacemaker, not a Peacemaker. The sizes were 23, 34 and 45. At least you got the model [speed] right.

 

Take a look at the helpboard on Graflex.Org for this kind of info. Fred Lustig in Los Vegas still does this work.

Go to Graflex.org and inform yourself about the difference between the various backs.

Here's the site for that story. http://tinyurl.com/5h2kl

Thanks Rik. That's what I meant, but not what I said. It is strong too, being made from a single billet which was machined.

I'd suggest you consider the ML-Grip. Check here: http://tinyurl.com/25j232 The base on this grip extends across the full base of the camera, thus making it stable when you sit it down. No other grip I know of does that. Both of these grips mount the same way, described by Thomas, and the ML-Grip has an opening where the base lock is located. Thus, you can remove the base w/o removing the grip from the camera. It too has a centered tripod hole. The rubber coating on the grip portion is far superior to the Handgrip M, and the base of the grip is felt covered. No metal from the grip touches the camera except the screw attaching it to the base. It has a large storage area in the handgrip area. It isn't the cheapest grip, but I believe it is the best one considering its features.

Since the placement varies with the camera, incl. Graphic cameras, just check Graflex.org.

Go to Graflex.org and inform yourself about the camera's features.