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ev1

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  1. <p>I appreciate that you ask this question. I am always disappointed when I see separate adds for a classic camera body, lens, case, shade, lens caps, etc, particularly if it is an old camera.<br /> It is unfortunate when a camera kit can survive intact for years- sometimes decades- only to be separated for minimal financial gain.</p>
  2. <p>That looks like a nice M6. I have a 1985 Wetzlar M6 and a later one made in Solms.<br>

    I prefer the top engraving of the Wetzlar model and the red Leitz logo, like yours. <br>

    I don't think you paid too much particularly since it has boxes, strap, etc. If I had to guess, it probably was a one owner camera who used it up until recently, hence the soft release, which is a nice feature. Check out the battery compartment, shutter curtains, viewfinder, and then run a roll of film through it to see how it responds. You can also get an idea of how much it was used by looking at the strap lugs for wear.<br>

    I bet it will be fine- M6's are extremely durable cameras. Have fun.</p>

     

  3. <p>Back from Costa Rica. Pura Vida!<br>

    Had a great time in the Monteverde Cloud Forest, Tortuguero Reserve, and in the hilltowns outside of San Jose. Wonderful people, food, sights, and sounds.<br>

    Took the M8 and a Zeiss 21mm f4.5, Elmarit 28mm f2.8, 35mm summicron, and 50mm Elmar-M lenses. Very compact kit and I used them all.<br>

    The best thing I took with me were my new 10x25 Ultravid binoculars that I traded some old equipment for at Adorama. Compact, light and very sharp. The other new item was a Wolverine ESP portable HD for backing up SD cards.<br>

    Thanks for all the advice and recommendations - I'll post some images soon.</p>

     

  4. <p>I was given have a Billingham Hadley Original bag about ten years ago and later bought a small Hadley bag.<br /> The Original is a perfect travel bag- not too big, lightweight, soft material, and stays close to the body. The original fits two M bodies, three lenses, film, a small water bottle and other stuff. I've even stuffed a light jacket in it. I also like the stealth factor because it doesn't look like a camera bag and doesn't have velcro or zippers.<br /> The Domke inserts fit perfectly in the Hadley and offer more protection, and a shoulder pad- either Domke or Billingham- adds to the comfort factor. The small Hadley works very well as a day bag for one body and two lenses.<br /> Domke bags are great and well-constructed, although I think they are a little heavier, which makes a difference when you carry it all day.</p>
  5. <p>Francisco, thanks for the advice. I agree, I've decided to take the M8.<br>

    You are also correct about the oddity factor of the Leica; many people here in NYC have asked me if I can still buy film for my "antique camera". My favorite experience was a group of local teenagers came up to me one afternoon in a quiet part of Central Park to ask me about my old camera and if I would take their picture. They didn't believe that even worked; it was a well used M5 that Sherry Krauter had brought back to life for me. Gracias- Eugene</p>

    <p> </p>

  6. <p>Greetings,<br />I am traveling Costa Rica later this month with my family and am debating whether t

    o take my M8 or M6 with me. In the past, my standard travel kit has been tw

    o M6's and a 28mm, 35, and 50mm lenses. I am not a long-lens user and will focus on family scenes

    , nature and landscapes.</p

    >

    <p>I'm tempted to leave my recently upgraded M8 at home because we will be in the rain and cloud forests and a

    t the beach. However the ease of quickly changing ISO's in varying light would be a great advantage. Although I'v

    e traveled extensively with my film bodies, I also have a minor concern about camera security.</p

    >

    <p>On the other hand, my M6's are practically indestructible and I think that Fuji Pro 800 ASA will wor

    k for the rainforests and Fuji 400 and 100 ASA for everything else. I could also invest in a faster lens and a

    m considering the Voigtlander Nokton 35mm F1.2, which is large and heavy, however excellent at f1.2. My entire kit i

    s compact and the Nokton may be a crazy idea, but I do like the images it can make.<br>

    Any thoug

    hts or advice about M8 or M6, lenses, or film choices particularly for the rainforest would be welcome.

  7. <p>Greetings,<br /> I am a long-time Leica rangefinder photographer going to Costa Rica later this month. I shoot mostly street scenes and family situations at home and have a range of lenses from 21mm to 50mm.<br /> I will be traveling with my wife and two children and will focus on family scenes, nature and landscapes. I am thinking of taking my usual travel kit of two bodies and 28 f3.5, 35 f2.0, and 50mm f2.0 lenses. <br>

    I also have a Leica M8, however I am considering taking my film bodies and color print film due to rainforest weather, overall ruggedness, and unfortunately, security concerns. Has anyone taken their Leica M8 to Costa Rica? I realize that a high-end DSLR setup is as costly to replace as an M8, however I've always traveled with my film bodies and am completely comfortable with them.<br>

    I'm considering 800 ASA Fuji film for the rainforests and 400 and 100 ASA for everything else. I've been testing Fuji Pro 800 ASA in dim situations and it looks pretty good. I could also invest in a faster lens and am considering the Voigtlander Nokton 35mm F1.2, which is rather large and heavy, however excellent at f1.2. Since my entire kit is rather compact, I could make an exception with a larger lens.<br /> Any thoughts or advice about rangefinder bodies, lenses or film choices -particularly for the rainforest - would be welcome.<br /> Thanks!</p>

    <p> </p>

  8. I've owned two CL's and although I liked their size and lens, both had meter problems.

    Unfortunately the meter is known to be a weak point on the camera.

    The 40mm summicron C lens, however, is my favorite going out for a walk lens.

     

    My suggestion; the M2 with the 40mm lens.

    The M2 is a more rugged, classic M body, and the 40mm summicron C is often available on its own and very

    reasonable here in the US.

  9. I use my 40mm summicron C as my everyday, take anywhere, just going for a walk lens on

    my M6 and M5.

    As others have said its a great lens, small, compact, sharp with a classic look to it.

    I've never seen a 50mm summicron that's worth using for the same price. There are

    instructions on line with photos that show how to modify it for 35mm framelines, which is

    very simple.

    I also modified the retaining ring from a torn original rubber hood to use a rectangular

    hood from a 35mm summicron.

  10. Francisco, that's the Fuente de Canaletas in the background.

    On a side street just to the right in your photo is the well-known bar, Boadas.

    Its an old time kind of place, small, dark, with waiters in white coats. The kind of place

    where you order a classic cocktail and they make a bid deal of the preparation. I bet our

    friend Albert is familar with Boadas.

     

    Sorry, back to Leicas;

    Albert, yes an M6 and a 35mm summicron is a great starting point.

    I have two M6's and they are like workhorses. Perfect for Boadas or Camp Nou or just

    kicking around Barceloneta.

    Another store option is Adorama. I bought one of my M6's there and negotiated a great

    price. The guy I like to deal with at Adorama is Sephardic and speaks Spanish.

    Send me a private email if you like, I'm in NYC, although my Catalan is marginal!

  11. A 28mm lens is a good choice if you have both M bodies and a RD-1.

    I had a CV 25mm lens for awhile and decided to sell it for something faster and without zone

    focusing that I could use on both M bodies and a RD-1, if I ever bought one. I eventually

    found a used ZM 28mm, which filled my need for a wide and fast lens at a reasonable price.

    When I bought my RD-1, the 28mm is very close to my favorite 40mm summicron C

    walkaround lens on my M bodies.

  12. I have a TEWE finder that I use for 35 and 50mm lenses on my IIC. It also has a black dot

    where I assume the 40mm zoom point should be and I've tried it with my 40mm summicron

    to good results. I considered having it cleaned and asked DAG for a quote, which was around

    $80.00. He said they are complicated to take apart. I've owned both an Imarect and

    Russian turret finders, and the TEWE zoom has a lower profile that I prefer. If you are able to

    find one, its worth a try.

  13. One difference between Leica and Apple is during the development of the M line, Leica has

    been an inconsistant innovator with 10 to 15 year intervals. The M3 set the bar, however

    true innovation didn't not happen for 15 years until the M5 in the early 1970's and then

    the M6 in the mid 1980's. Models from the m2 to the m4 were elegantly designed by

    today's standards, however their overall level of product development was minimal

    compared to their Japanese competitors at the time.

    On the other hand, Apple had the intestinal fortitude to produce a wide variety of products

    at different price-points aimed at different segments of the market. Granted, some were

    elegant failures, however for a company with a miniscule share of the personal computer

    market, they eventually prevailed to become the design and innovation reference that they

    are today. If there is a lesson for Leica in Apple's success, I think it would be how to

    overcome a niche market mentality (a la carte) to offer well-designed and affordably priced

    products that appeal to a wider range of consumers. The answer is obvious; Leica has

    never been that type of company. And as much as I enjoy collecting and using my Leica

    cameras and lenses, I don't think they will ever do it.

  14. I recently bought a very lightly used E500 for $250 and a fotodiox 4/3rds to R adapter to use with my 28 elmarit R.

    I'm mainly using this setup as a glorified point and shoot since focusing can be hit or miss. I've also used the 28R on an older Canon D body with a split screen, which helps with focusing.

    The E500 is well made and I haven't had problems with noise although I tend to use 400 ASA or less.

    I've been debating a real digital lens and seriously considering the 25mm since I like using a standard 50mm on my Leica M bodies.

    I've also been thinking about the Pan-Leica 14-50mm lens as well. Both lenses are rather large and heavy, however the images I've seen from the 25mm look impressive. Also, having a true F1.4 is very tempting.

  15. Neither- get a 50mm Elmar-M!

    It is sharp, light, compact, and has a one stop difference. I had a 50 cron with the built-in shade and used it with a screw on hood, as suggested. I thought the hood made the lens considerably longer. I eventually sold the cron in favor of the elmar, which is a great travel lens and a better fit for my picture-making needs.

  16. I use my 40C on both my M6 and M5 this way;

    Under 10 feet from subject, 50mm framelines, beyond 10 feet, 35mm framelines.

    I filed the cam down to always activate the 35, but if I touch the frameline selector I can make

    it 'stick' to the 50 lines.

    It took a little practice but works great, and I agree that the lens is excellent.

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