glenn_s
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Posts posted by glenn_s
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You can't go wrong with Alien Bees. I started with the Digi-Bee setup, and I've been very happy with it.
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I had an underxposure issue with my XT. I saw that some other people had
similar problems, so I thought I'd share my discovery.
I took pictures at a party after a formal event and two thirds of the pics were
significantly underexposed. I was able to save them in PSE, but it was more
post processing than I wanted to do.
It turned out my camera was set to Partial-Metering. (I don't recall setting
it, but apparently I did). Most of us had taken our suit jackets and were
wearing white dress shirts. The partial metering camera exposed for the white
shirts, and tried to center what it "saw" on the histogram. The result was a
dim white shirt and everything else being significantly underexposed.
My first clue was that pictures of women in their dark formal dresses were all
properly exposed. I guess the bare shoulders and dark dress were both in the
metering zone. It was the pictures of men that were the most underexposed.
Anyway, I've set it back to Evaluative metering, and I think I've solved the
problem. The whole situation has made me more aware of the affects of white or
dark objects on the camera's metering system.
Glenn
p.s. This was using a Rebel XT, 420EX flash, and 28-105USM lens.
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On the XT, you can use Av with the flash if you set Custom Function 3 to 1/200. This will force the shutter speed to 1/200 and allow you to manually set the aperture.
Glenn
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Unfortunately, the 430EX won't work to trigger the AB's. The Canon E-TTL flash fires a pre-flash a fraction of a second before the main flash fires. The camera evaluates the pre-flash to determine how much light to put out when the main flash fires. The pre-flash will trigger the AB's, and the AB's will be off before your shutter opens.
I have a Rebel XT and a 420EX. I got the hot-shoe adapter from Alien Bees. I plug the sync cable from the adapter to one of the AB's, and the other AB fires when the first one goes off. I don't use the 420EX at all when I'm using the AB's.
Like you, I am sans meter for the foreseeable future. I look at the LCD screen and press the info button until the histogram comes up. When shooting a mostly white background, I adjust the lights until there is a big peak on the right side of the histogram. The peak is almost at the right edge, but falls off before the right edge.
I'm too new at this to know for sure that this is the best way for the histogram to look, but the images with this histogram seem to be properly exposed when I look at them on the computer.
Hope this helps,
Glenn
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Thank you all for the quick and detailed responses.
I'll try the umbrella on the background and moving the subject further out.
This is one of the pictures where the side of the face is over-exposed. (He would only pose if I let him hold the drill).
Thanks,
Glenn<div>
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I read on this forum that I should overexpose a white background by about two
stops to get the classic white background.
I tried it and had two problems. First, light reflected off the background
onto the side of the subject's face, causing it to be overexposed.
Secondly, the background was not evenly exposed - the light dropped off from
left to right.
I'm using an AB400 and an AB800. For the main light, I used an umbrella 45
degrees to the subject's right. I put the background light just out of the
field of view to the subject's right and just slightly behind the subject.
Subject was ~4' from the wall. Background light was reflector only (no
umbrella) and positioned so that none of the light would directly hit the
subject.
Any thoughts about where I should place the background light to achieve even
overexposure on the background without spilling onto the subject?
Thanks,
Glenn
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If you get the BeginnerBee package, consider getting a 5-in-1 reflector and stand. You'll be able to use it for fill light. It will also be handy when you do get the second light.
I went the DigiBee route, but I'll definitely get a reflector soon.
Glenn
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I got the DigiBee package a week ago, and I'm playing with it to learn. I've been very pleased. I got one AB400 and one AB800 - I figured the extra power would be good when I expand and get a softbox.
In order to use f/4, I have to turn the AB800 down to 1/4 or even 1/8, so the AB400 would likely meet my current needs.
I'm enjoying playing around with it and experimenting with different light. My 3 year old only models for me if we take turns - I put my XT on a tripod and let him take pictures of me.
I think you'll be pleased with the Bees.
Glenn
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Buy once, cry once.
You get what you pay for.
Glenn
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A Beginner Bee (AB400), and enough Christmas cash to buy an AB800!
Tamrac Adventure 9 Photo/Computer backpack.
A roll of background paper and a couple of cloth backdrops.
It was a Merry Christmas.
Glenn
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thank you all for the info. Speedlights it is.
Glenn
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I'm ready to move up to better lighting. I was considering some cheap studio
lights. http://www.adorama.com/LTBK1.html After seeing some of the posts in
this forum, I'm considering multiple Speedlites instead.
I currently have a 350D and a 420EX. My next step would be a 580EX, which
could trigger the 420EX.
My question is: is there a way to use an umbrella with the remote 420EX?
I'm envisioning bouncing the camera mounted 580EX to one side, and using the
420EX as the main light from the other side. This will be for family portrait
type stuff - nothing too big or fancy. Is this a lucid idea?
Thanks,
Glenn
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thank you all for the responses. I'm using the XT's custom function to force the shutter to 1/200 and make the flash the dominant light. The color is fine when it's direct flash, just not bounce flash. I think Guy is right - maybe the walls aren't as white as they look.
I'll try the custom white balance and see if it makes a difference. I've never used it before, but clearly it's time to learn a new trick. I just checked my manual and it doesn't seem too difficult.
Thanks,
Glenn
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I've been trying to do more bounced flash to avoid shadows - especially when I
shoot vertical pictures.
Many of these pictures appear to have a yellow tungsten cast to them. My
ceilings are white. Any idea why the pictures would come out yellow?
Is there any solution other than custom setting the white balance each time?
Thanks,
Glenn
p.s. - I'm using a Rebel XT, 420EX, and occaisionaly a Sto-Fen diffuser.
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I'd try a Craftsman Strap Wrench from Sears.
I've got one. If you want to send me the camera and lens, I'll get the filter ring off, test it for a few months, and then send it back ;-) Glad you and the camera are ok.
Glenn
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Boy, I'm really glad I waited ;-) I just re-read all of the prognostications, and it looks like y'all were dead on. I've been getting great shots with my old Rebel G, and now I'm ready for the 350D.
Glenn
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I have a 28-105USM and a 75-300IS for my Rebel-G. 6.3mp is plenty for my use, I just thought the new release would have updated white balance, AF, faster memory access, etc. I guess I could always sell it if a new one comes out with features that I can't live without.
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Any thoughts on when Canon will release a new DREB? I was all set to
buy one, but then considered that it's been out for over a year, and
Canon will surely release an upgrade to compete with the D70. Am I
foolish for waiting?
Canon EF 24-70mm L vs. Canon EF 28-135mm IS
in Canon EOS Mount
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Just to make it more complicated - you could always return the 28-135, get the 24-70, and also get the $250 28-105 (the good version of the 28-105).
The 28-105 is noticeably smaller, lighter, and cheaper than the 28-135. It's not IS, but it has great optics and is small enough to be a good walking around lens.
Just a thought.
Glenn
Glenn