istvan_sandor
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Posts posted by istvan_sandor
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"Auto focus accuracy improves as well"
Andre, autofocus has nothing to do with the focusing screens.
The AF sensors are located in the lower part of the mirror chamber and receive the light with the mean of the so called sub mirrors which are located under the main mirror.
The light that comes in through the lens goes into two different directions: one part of it goes towards the viewfinder (i.e. the focusing screen)with the help of the main mirror and the other part is directed to the AF sensors by the sub mirror.
Therefore, AF is completely independent from what focusing screen one is using.
Agree however, that the EF-S is great for MF with fast lenses !
Istvan
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maybe a stupid question:
If I fail (which I actually did) to remove the battery RIGHT AFTER I install the new FW and start using the camera, will the new FW come into effect when I remove the battery later ?
thanks, Istvan
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Hi Yakim,
1. you go to the main menu
2. choose the middle (2nd) yellow icon
3. the last menu item is "Flash Control"
4. the first item is " Flash Firing" with 2 options: "Enable/Disable"
I preferred flash settings being under the CFs (like in 10d, my previous camera) but hey, altogether 40d is an awesome piece of equipment....isn't it ?
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YES, YES, YES, YES, YES, YES and YEEESSSS !
The 135/2 is clearly sharper than any 70-200. It absolutely rocks. How much this additional sharpness worth in $$$ depends on your financials.
However, (one of the) the good thing(s) about quality lenses is that you can sell them anytime at minimum loss so buying them - I think - is rather a "cash flow" than a "cost" consideration.
Anyway, I may use my 70-200 IS more often due to its versatility being a zoom, but any time I reach for the 135/2 my heart starts beating faster....
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Does it work properly in the other modes ? Have you checked the batteries ? (in the flash unit)
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There was no LCD cover on mine, either.
Re: file numbering: Did you try the camera in the store ? You might have used a memory card provided by the store for the test ? If you did not format the card before the test, then it is probably the cause of that high file number.
Anyway, any authorized Canon repair shop can check the shutter count of your camera by a dedicated software. (and only they can do that)
Here in Budapest, they do it right away, on the spot, for free. It takes 2 minutes. I have used this service a couple of times when buying/selling used cameras and I also happened to do it with my new 40d as I was stupid enough to use the store's CF card which already had images on it.
Not surprisingly, with my CF card at home it started at file number above 8000. I did not worry as I had been aware of the probable reason but to be sure, I had my cam. checked by the Canon repair shop and they reported a shutter count of less than 300 which was all me playing with my camera during the first day.
Hope this hels a bit...
Istvan
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Hi,
I have just ordered a pair of no-name BP-511 batteries for my 40d through the
famous auction site.
I have already been using no-name batteries for cca. 3 years and they cost me
1/4 of the genuine Canon batteries, store 25% more juice and lasted (so far)
twice as long.
The ones I have just ordered (not from the same source as the current ones) cost
5 USD each and they are 1800mAh so, dirt cheap.
I never thought about any potential damage caused by batteries (so, I may have
just been lucky with the current ones) but this made me thinking just now.
Could someone tell me whether I should be cautious and avoid "no-name batteries"
or I should not worry. Also, is there a way to check batteries prior using them ?
(I have a Volt/Amper meter if that can be a tool to check them...)
Thanks a lot and sorry for my English...
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Hi,
I am planning to buy a used BG-E2 grip for my 40D.
I have just heard that there have been some of these (earlier production?)
BG-E2s that have been defective and also heard that it's been a known problem
(even admitted by Canon) and these items can be identified by their serial
numbers (production codes?). Someone told me that this info is on a Canon
website but so far, I have not been able to find it.
Could anyone help me on this ?
Thanks, Istvan
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Leopold, did you try that combination personally ? My Canon 1,4 TC perfectly fits my Sigma 120-300/2.8 and produce awesome results.
I guess, the 70-200 has the same rear construction as the 120-300 to allow them both to use the same (Sigma) TCs.
I used to have the Sigma 70-200 earlier, but at that time I used it with Sigma converters so I'm not stating that it would work with the Canon 1,4 but pretty strongly "assume".
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Jon: The reason why I consider it to be important is that - at least AFAIK - the smaller the autofocus point is the more precisely it can lock on what you want it to.
The center focus point (or rather area) on the 10d is large and this is a regular cause for misfocus.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong...
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Hi, Could anyone give me some information about the difference in the brightness
of the viewfinders of the 10D, 40D and the 5D? Thanks a lot, Istvan
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Hi,
Could anyone give me some information about the difference of the size of the
autofocus points on the 40d and the 5D? Are those smaller than on 10D ? I'm
especially curious about that regarding the center point which is painfully
large on the 10D.
For me, this would be one of the most important factors to consider an upgrade.
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Hi,
When using my 70-200/2.8 IS with IS on, I often experience blurred images when I
use flash OR shutter speed above 1/1000. (and no blurred images with IS off)
Could anyone tell me whether there is a "normal" technological reason behind
this or something is wrong with my camera/lens ?
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Only Canon (or an authorized Canon repair shop) can tell. Its a 2 minutes exercise, they just connect the camera to their computer and retrieve the info. Here in Hungary they usually do it for free and right away on the spot so you do not have to leave the camera there. They even give you an official certificate about the shutter count if you want them to. (e.g. if you wanna sell your camera, or buy one)
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brian, thanks for your comment,
I would actually like to find out whether there is (by production) any difference between a 1 year old and a 12 year old copy of the same lens ?
best, Istvan
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Hi,
Could anyone tell me whether this lens has ever been upgraded ?
The reason I am asking is that I intend to purchase one and I have 2 copies to
choose from.
One is 12 years old and the other is of 2006 production.
The old one has some sign of use but optically and mechanically looks OK and (of
course) the price is very appealing.
Does anyone have any knowledge whether there has ever been any silent upgrade
e.g. less reflecting coating for digital cameras or anything else ?
Thanks a lot in advance,
Istvan
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Hi,
I'm planning to buy a 2x converter for my EF 300/4 IS USM and Sigma 120-300/2.8.
I came across one but I only had my 70-200/4 IS with me for testing the extender
but I thought if it worked, it should work with the other 2 lenses as well. I
have a 10d and I am aware that the extenders are designed to refuse AF beyond
5.6 unless I tape the 3 pins on the extender. I did so, but to my disappointment
it still did not work. AF did work, it was hunting in and out and it was
oscillating but never locked focus. Rather, it always locked out of focus.
It was bright sunlight and I tested at contrasty subjects so the problem was
surely not the lack of enough light or contrast. (earlier, I used to have the 2x
and used the taping trick with success and I am also aware that it has
limitations at limited light conditions but, I knew that it SHOULD HAVE worked).
Could anyone suggesting any other potential reasons for above?
As far as I know, there is no specific lens/converter compatibility difference
i.e. when pins taped it should work with any lens.
Or, is anyone aware of any potential "developments" from Canon that make this
"tape trick" ineffective with recent lenses/converters ?
Thnaks for the ifo in advance,
Istvan
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You cannot directly mount the the Canon TC on the Tamron however, if you put an extension tube between the two it should work fine.
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Those who own(ed) this kind(s) of lens(s), could you please help me by giving
some ideas about how you carry(ied)it? I would be interested in what bag/pouch
etc. you use for carrying/transporting it (street&nature) as well as what kind
of support you use while using it ?
The Sigma 120-300/2.8 is an absolutely awsome lens optically (on par with
primes) but its weight continues to be a pain (literally). My heaviest lens so
far was the EF 100-400/4-5,6 and Mr. Sig. is more than twice as heavy as that
so, this kind of weight is new to me.
Thanks a lot in advance, Istvan
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Daniel,
I am sorry, I did not read the last sentence of your post. Stupid me ....
Ulrich is 100% right ! However, the 70-200/4 is an awsome lens, F/4 is far from ideal for indoor sport with poor lighting. (and IS does not help here)
Furthermore, I do not shoot a lot of indoor sports, so I better shut up here....however I cannot help trying to help your decision:
maybe you should also consider a good flash (if allowed at the place where you shoot) e.g. the 580EX or a 550EX (used you can find good bargain, esp for the 550) which helped me a lot in those situations to stop motion in "M" Mode at 1/125 and the widest aparture avalable. Good luck, again, Istvan
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If you do not have a specific reason for buying a 2.8 lens (moving subjects at low light, strong background separation, etc), I would seriously consider the 70-200/4 IS version which is roughly the same price as the 70-200/2.8.
You have the same FL range, IS, awsome optical performance and light weight.
And I definitely second to the recommendation of investing into glass instead of "magnesium/plastic" i.e. camera.
Further to the reason that lens is more important for the optical quality tha the camera, lenses (esp. Canon L) will retain their value for almost forever, as oppsed to (digital) cameras which almost half their values almost in every 2 or 3 years.
Good luck with your choice whichever you make, I guarantee that you will not be unhappy with any of the 3 a.m. lenses, anyway.
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The EF 300/4 IS and EF 400/5.6 have no fluorite, either..
Istvan
40D, Manual Mode, Problem Adj. Aperture
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted
Casey,
Older Sigma lenses work with Canon bodies only at max. aperture. Some however, can be rechipped by Sigma and - AFAIK - they will be happy to do it for you.
Please specify what type of Sigma lens you are using and I try to check what you can/cannot do with it.
(a few years ago I received a compatibility chart from the local Sigma dealer)
Good luck, Istvan