david_wombacher1

Thank you for that John. It bursts my bubble but it's still a good find and worth a fair amount. I have book marked the other sites for future reference.

That is great information John.

It also helps to confirm my hunch.

I think this is a very rare i.e. scarce lens with an unlimited value.

I'm sure a serious collector will be excited to add it to their collection.

I was helping a friend of mine identify a lens which I could find almost ZERO

information about. I believe it is not rare but scarce. Am I right or wrong? It

is currently at auction on ebay see item number 200087907436.

My Tamrac bag with my Nikon stuff is the same size, always carry it on and no one says anything. I never put it up top, always between my feet on the floor or under the seat.

 

I wouldn't worry about it, I think you will be fine but it never hurts to ask the air line.

 

David

That is correct, the Moose is a great filter, made by Hoya. You can save a fair amount by getting one instead of two filters.

Picture CD's are typically just another option to select when you put the film in for developing.

 

Most computer screens have a 72 dpi resolution so anything scanned above that will not look any better or worse on the screen. In fact when you format the pics for internet viewing you do not want a super high resolution because it makes for a huge file that a slow connection will take a very long time to download and view.

 

David

If all you want to do is look around out "there" and maybe take a picture or two you might want to get a Spotting Scope and a T-Mount ring instead.

 

It is fun to mess around with, can be fairly cheap but also much more expensive then a camera lens.

 

Just a suggestion.

 

David aka camerahunter

I couldn't decide so I bought one of every Nikon Coolpix model, kinda prefer Nikon. Since I sell camera gear for a living I can always sell it.

 

The 775 is a neat little camera, pretty primitave though compared to later models but small and capable, very cheap, gave one to each of my kids.

The 2100 is also a great little camera, screen brightenes up when pointed into total darkness, very small, uses AA batteries and Type I CF so all around cheap to operate and for normal size prints it is great.

I absolutely love the SQ, not real great in the dark but for outside it's hard to beat, superb viewing screen, takes movies with sound, one of the only cameras you can actually zoom in and out with while recording a movie. Takes great pictures, fun to use, easy to carry.

 

The 4200 is a beauty, a true point and shoot with so many great features it's hard to beat. Very capable camera and I got mine for under $180 with a real nice Nikon Bag for all.

 

If I had a bit more money to mess around with I think I would get the Olympus 8080, very nice looking, high resolution, wide angle lens, fast, just about has it all.

 

The one I am waiting for is not made yet, it needs to be very much like the Oly 8080 but with a longer zoom and faster lens. Until you get that they are really all the same cameras in different cases.

 

David aka camerahunter

OH COME ON PEOPLE>>>THE ANSWER IS SIMPLE!

 

Just have the film you shoot developed and instead of getting prints get them saved to a CD. Take it home, format proofs and print them out to show clients, 4 to a page or so and you are good to go.

 

You will still get negatives, you can print again from them or print your own at home provided you opt for a really good printer.

 

David

Never heard of the Hoya 18 but a Nikon A2 is a warming filter kind of like a SKylight 1B mixed with a 81A.

As a photo equipment dealer I have bought a LOT from Fargo over the last 10 years. I will say that I don't buy a single thing from them anymore. There are better places out there to get stuff I need at lower prices. For the most part I don't need much anymore, I already have it all here.

 

My last order from them 2 years ago was a large one, over $500. It was terrible. Not even half of it shipped. I of course called and they said they didn't know exactly when the balance would come. Well a year later I was still getting one item at a time, here and there and paying shipping every time.

 

I finally called again and told them that whatever is left on the order please do not send it. After a year I really have learned to live without it or I got it somewhere else.

A friend of mine owns a camera shop in Seattle. He loves the camera, owned one for years, bought it new and is still using it. He claims he has never had a bad picture with it. They are not real great sellers so I avoid them unless they are real cheap and I can make a buck. They are good cameras though and worth more then the sell for. Maybe this one should be put on the "sleepers" thread.

I have that camera here. It's one of my personal favorites but it does not work. I have saved it for a repair project. I realize it's not particularly valueable and by the time i get it fixed it just might be worthless but it's a really nice camera so I want to try.

 

Fuji made a lot of great little cameras that often go overlooked, not much info about them that I've seen either.

Here's what I would try if it were mine. Advance the film to get the camera in taking position, advance the self timer as far as it will go, put a few drops of lighter fluid on the self time lever and tip the camera to allow it to flow in toward the lens, wait a minute, push the shutter button.

It looks like you can take that back off and put on a 8x10 back. All you need is the GG and film holders. Just use the back on there as a pattern to design and build a bigger one. Get the film holders first and make it to fit them.

More then likely it's a huge piece of equipment which makes it a lot less collectible. The only value will be in it's usefulness and in accessories like lenses, boards, shutter, etc. I bought out a collector a while back and he had a huge camera that was just over 4 foot square front and back with huge IRON rails, chains and gears, a real monster, I left it there.

Here's some 2300 which is what I'm using and quite happy with

 

http://www.thecamerahunter.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TCH&Product_Code=LEN2300_4_PK&Category_Code=DCA

Sorry about that....wrong thread....please ignore that last post of mine up there.

Wind it twice in the advance direction, then back once and return the crank to the home position and try it again.

 

If the self fimer is stuck you can put a little lighter fluid on it and it should free it up for countdown.

Here's some 2300 which is what I'm using and quite happy with

 

http://www.thecamerahunter.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=TCH&Product_Code=LEN2300_4_PK&Category_Code=DCA

The Ansco Clipper gets my nomination.

It's probably because it's already cocked. The one thing I would try is nudging the self timer to finish it's count down, sometimes that's the culprit.

9 times out of 10 a drop of Vinegar on a Q-tip will clean the battery contacts as good as new.

 

On the old cameras the contacts are prone to oxidation/corrosion where a light film develops on the metal surface. Either the Vinegar or a pencil erasure works perfectly.

 

I believe the HiMatic uses a 1.3V battery so anythign that's 1.3V will work fine.

My sleeper pick is a Yashica MF-1, a little point and shoot style camera but it also has the ability to take a 30 second long exposure on the Auto setting, amazing.

 

My Dacora 35 CC is also a sleeper, very small, very sharp Color Iscomar 42mm 2.8 lens, bottom wind, shutter button on front, bright coupled center wieghted metering rangefinder, focusing right on the front of the lens, self timer, hot shoe, cable release socket, just a neat little camera but probably not worth a lot.<div></div>

If you are savy enough to take the top and bottom off the camera you might be able to get it going yourself. Most of the time the problem lies in the battery contacts. The best way to clean them is with a tiny bit of Vinegar.

 

It could also be a brass contact somewhere. With time and air they develop a light coating that keeps it from making contact. These can either be cleaned with a pencil erasure or Vinegar.

 

If you can't find a contact to clean on top or bottom it could be the sliding switch inside the lens barrel. This switch tells the camera what the aperture and shutter are set at for metering purposes.

 

Many times I get an old camera to go by working the adjustments for an hour or so while watching TV. The friction from this is often enough to clean the light film from the contacts and get it going again.