bradfarlow

<p>Jennifer, here's one with the 35-70mm. I've thought about selling it since they are going for quite a bit these days, but it's too good a lens to sell IMHO.</p><div></div>

<p>Jennifer, I use the 12-24mm Tokina indoors and out. Usually when shooting architectural shots, I use a tripod. If you bump up the ISO I'm sure you could use it indoors without a flash. Here is one with the 12-24mm hand held.</p><div></div>

<p>Ann, The HDR shot is is extremely tilted upward causing the convergence of the lines (although it is a nice shot). Distortion is usually seen as curving lines that are really straight. You can read more about it here:<br /> http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/tilt-shift-lenses1.htm</p>

<p> </p>

<p>That is not distortion, it is caused by tilting the camera upward.</p>

<p>I second the 12-24mm f/4 Tokina it is a great lens and is very reasonably priced. I shoot architecture for my firm and I use this more than any other lens for both interior and exteriors (on a D200). Good luck.</p>

I love the 35-70mm f/2.8 on my D200 and F100; I used the HB-15 with the D200 and the HB-1 with the F100 and haven't

had any trouble with flare or vignetting.

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Thanks for the responses, I'll check out the recommendations.

<p>I'm looking for something that can carry 2 SLRs, lenses, flashes, etc. Is this a good choice? What are your opinions? I have some other Domke bags and I love how they wear & how comfortable they are.<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

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<p>Thanks for all the feedback, maybe I need to keep this one. :)</p>

<p>I'm trying to decide if I really want to sell this lens. I haven't had the funds to buy a D700 or D3 and so I have't been using it much since I've cut back on my film shooting. <br>

Anyone love this lens for panos or other uses?<br>

Below is a shot using this lens. (I know there are still converging lines, but they were reduced a lot though shifting.)<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/5319583-lg.jpg" alt="" width="441" height="650" /></p>

<p>I had an MF-23 for a year or so and it is the most non-intuitive piece of photo equipment EVER created.</p>

<p>In fact, here's one from today with the D70s and the 20mm AI f/4 with a B+W 093 filter.</p><div></div>

<p>I have a D200 and I still use my D70s. In fact I took it out today. I love it for infrared shooting since it is much more sensitive to IR with out having to have it converted for $500.</p>

 

<p>Here's one from this week</p><div></div>

<p>I second the Lester Dine recommendation. Best glass I own.</p><div></div>

<p>Last one</p><div></div>

<p>Here's another</p><div></div>

<p>I don't usually take pictures of cereal boxes or brick walls, but for use in real life situations, I have been very happy with my 50mm AF (non D). Here are a few examples. It's a great lens for the price IMHO.</p><div></div>

<p>I can think of many circumstances where a fast lens is necessary; I guess it depends on what your trying to achieve. Shallow depth of field can't be acheived any other way unless you have a view camera or a shift lens, but that's really a different effect.</p><div></div>

<p>I had at least 2 years left on my subscription.  :( I wondered why it quit arriving.</p>

I had the same issue and just bought one in "ugly" condition from KEH with a factory Ai ring and swapped them out. I then sold the ugly, now-non Ai, lens for what I had in it. I love this lens for infrared, it's the sharpest one I've found.<div></div>

This is my favorite lens to use with an infrared filter on my D70s (it is tack sharp with infrared). It's also great on my D200 and of course on film cameras too.<div></div>

One of my favorites with film or digital is the 25-50mm f/4. Read about it here:

http://www.naturfotograf.com/index2.html