martin_chamberlain1

<p>Anyone out there with an Epson P-2000 viewer saving RAW files from a Canon EOS 40D?<br>

The RAW support literature says it supports upto the 30D, and there hasn't been a firmware update since 2006. Will it fail to save 40D files, or save them but fail to show them, or does it show them perfectly?</p>

<p>My 4 year old 20D has developed a fault with the control dial (the big one on the back of the body). Sometimes it works fine, other times a single "click" rotation results in a jump worth several clicks, and sometimes rotating the wheel changes nothing, sometimes there is a delayed change.<br>

It feels like bad electrical contacts wherever the wheel movement is detected.<br>

Anyone any ideas (other than sending it for a repair that will cost more than the value of the body)?<br>

I feel like squirting some dry silicon lube in there as a last resort but I'm sure someone else has a better idea or some first hand experience?</p>

I've thinking about a second body to work with my 20D and so naturally gravitated towards the new 50D. But I've now read two reviews (one on www.dxomark.com/ and one on www.dpreview.com/ ) that show the 50D to be clearly worse in terms of image quality than the 40D. I find this astounding.

Are there any readers with genuine first hand experience think that their 50D has better image quality then their 40D?

Thanks to you all for your answers - very helpful. I think I'm slightly swayed by the Spyder - mainly beause it seems to be easy to tweak a profile if necessary. I'm not sure that you can adjust individual colours on the ColorMunki (though happy to be corrected). The ColorMunki certainly seems easier to scan the printer patches, though that is not a big issue for me - a don't anticipate producing print profiles too often.

Also not sure that the ColorMunki actually calibrates the monitor. If I've got my terminology correct I mean optimise the hardware adjustments rather than just create a profile. This is an area of confusion: my Huey (for example) only creates a profile, it does not advise on adjusting monitor brightness and indivual colours hue & saturation. Am I right in thinking that the Spyder calibrates the monitor and produces a profle, but the ColorMunki only produces the profile?

Patrick - to answer your question - I currently use a Epson1290 with tetenal papers. But the purpose of investigating these kits now is in anticipation of my next printer. I was sort of hoping that HP would announce a replacement for their 9180 at Photokina. They didn't so I may need to take the plunge soon.

Thanks again.

I've seen separate reviews of both the Spyder 3 Studio (the package of Spyder 3 Elite plus Spyder Print) and the

ColorMunki, but never seen a comparison. They both see to do the same thing (monitor calibration and printer

calibration), and they are a similar price. Does anyone have experience of both and could let me know their

preference?

There seem to be a few more teething issues with the ColorMunki, and the the Spyder seems to have better

instructions and help facility, so as a non-expert in colour management I'm leaning towards the Spyder. I'd like the

ability to tweak the printer profiles but I think they both do that.

Any views on comparing the two would be appreciated.

I have a Canon EOS 10-22mm lens with a normal skylight filter which ideally I

don't want to remove. I want to buy a circular polarizer. Can I get away with

adding an ordinary thickness 77mm circular polarizer and still avoid

vignetting; or do I need to splash out and pay more for one of the special

thin ones (as sold by B+W filters for example)?

If anyone has first hand experience of this I'd be pleased to hear from you.

I have a new Canon 28-135 IS lens being used on a new D20 but have

noticed more shots than I used to get (on my 35mm EOS) are slightly

blurred with what looks like motion blur or camera shake. This

occurs even with 1/100th second at 50mm. Most shots are fine and

sharp so I know then lens can work OK.

What I'd like to know from experienced users is:

1. Do you leave the IS switched on for every shot (except tripod

shots)? Or turn it on only when you think its needed?

2. The lens intructions suggest "it will take about 1 second for the

image stabilizer operation to stabilize. Check the image has

stabilized before shooting". Well, I didn't really notice any image

shake so I took most shots within a second. Was this premature?

3. Should the IS function only be used for static subjects?

4. Has anyone else noticed that the IS can result in blur rather

than correcting it?

4. Will the IS automatically be disabled when the D20's self-timer

is turned on as it is with some other EOS cameras. This is not

covered in the D20 instructions and the lens instructions are pre-

D20.