jeff_schneider

<p>Messenger bags like Timbuk2 and Chrome are ubiquitous where I live. I use the former, with a soft wrap around the camera for a bit of protection from bumps.</p>

It's just the mirror bumper foam. It can be replaced by a repairer for a few dollars. There is no risk of a light leak from this foam deteriorating. However, the foam on the camera back is probably also deteriorated, and that can cause a light leak. Any decent repairer can easily fix this.

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You Are Here.

If photographing this area is important to you, take the best equipment you can carry. Life is short. Cameras can be replaced, and probably nothing bad will happen to your gear anyway.

My daughter's S6 won't take photos. When she presses the shutter, the shutter

sound plays, and a completely black image is captured. This problem first

started when the battery charge was very low.

 

The LCD works, and pictures already taken can be viewed on it.

 

Does anyone know if this is a simple problem that can be fixed by a "reset" of

some kind? Or is it perhaps a problem with the SD card?

 

Thanks in advance for any helpful advice.

Your shop has a Heidelberg sheetfed press - cool. I have the 18-70 "kit" lens too, and find it a good value for the money. What flash did you use?

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I bought a D200 last year, excited that I could finally afford a DSLR on which I

could use my collection of manual Nikkor lenses. Since then, I've enjoyed the

camera a lot, but haven't enjoyed manual focusing very much.

 

It was difficult for me to tell from the focusing screen if my image was in

focus, especially when using wide angle lenses. The focus confirmation

indicator helped, and I didn't notice any problem with its accuracy. But it was

often slow to use, blinking on and off as I made tiny adjustments until finally

it stayed lit.

 

Now I've just installed a Katz Eye focusing screen, and I have to say it makes a

huge difference. Accurate manual focusing is now very fast, and the focus

confirmation indicator and focusing aids on the screen(split image and

microprism collar)are in good agreement, even using my 50/1.4.

 

The installation was not difficult, following the instructions downloaded from

Katz Eye, but I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself unless you have at least a

little experience with small tools and handling delicate parts.

Yes, definitely go with the German ;-)

If you have unlimited money, for purchase and maintenance, Alpa could be fun. For mere mortals, something like a Nikon F2 with a few nice non-AI lenses would serve you really well, and would be not too expensive to get CLA'd, which IMO is essential if you actually plan to use any of the old timers. If you have the cash and really hate meters, you could spring for a non-metered prism.

Don't worry about it. If you actually use your gear, it gets dirty fast anyway. Have fun!

The OM-1 is a really good camera. I have one and love it. Re. your questions:

 

1) The switch on the top plate is for the match-needle light meter.

2) The switch on the front is for flash synchronization. FP was for flash bulbs (which were still around when the OM-1 came out). Keep it on X all the time (which is the setting for a strobe flash, the only kind we have now).

3) The cap on the bottom is removed when you attach a motor drive. Keep it on to avoid letting light in and fogging film.

 

Have fun!

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I love Amsterdam, and really like the photo of the cyclist. Well seen.

It's a great camera to use. I love the shutter speed ring around the lens mount. It takes the Nikkor non-AI lenses (or IA lenses with the "rabbit ears"). Sometimes the meter is flaky after all these years.

 

$189 is OK if it's a really nice example, recently serviced. If it hasn't ever had a CLA, get one, then use it happily for the rest of your life. Aside from the Nikon F2 or Canon F-1, I can't think of any better-built camera.

The name is Cloud Gate, but we locals call it The Bean. I love to watch tourists taking pictures of themselves in its reflection.

 

This is just one little part of our great city. Come visit us if you can.

I had a Contaflex long ago. I remember that the light meter had a door over it, which was supposed to be opened only in low light. Does yours have that?

 

Re. f2.8, I have no idea!

Bicycling any distance with something on your back is not comfortable, IMO. I always carry all my gear, food, etc. in panniers.

 

The Tamrac Velocity 5 is a fanny pack that fits in my panniers and can hold a DSLR and 2-3 lenses. It's very comfortable for walkiing around.

 

As for carrying digital and film gear at the same time, I wouldn't. For day trips, I'd choose one or the other, to limit the weight I'd have to drag around, and to prevent subjecting too much of my gear to the risk of damage from the elements or theft at the same time.