charles_gravely

<p>Arthur, his point was not that you can direct print from the camera or that he recommends a novice piece of software. His point was that very minimal processing and manipulation of the image is required and that even the most basic piece of software could process the raw image and make a good print. From this perspective it is the shortest route from camera to print. This is primarily because the M9 (and the M8) don't have the low pass filter that other cameras do. This means less capture sharpening is required. His point is only that you are starting with a truer image with an M9. Now if you are shooing JPG then the camera processes the image and this will be true regardless of the camera you shoot with so no direct path argument.<br>

CG</p>

 

<p>I have an original manual for this. One or two pages have some scribbling on it (probably me when I was a baby)<br>

I would be happy to pop it in the mail to anybody that wants it. PM me and I'll send it to first person<br>

It's free so hopefully okay that I posted it here<br>

Sorry if not ;)<br>

Chuck</p>

<p>Actually, maybe the adapter is too thin? Anybody?<br>

Charles</p>

<p>Hi Soeren,<br>

Just to update my last post - the adapter I am using (with my GF2) is the Panasonic Lumix brand, developed in conjunction with Leica - so not a cheap one for sure. In fact, it's the most expensive one.<br>

I ran a quick test at 1m through to 4 meters - measured distance with a tape and then focused by screen then checked the lens scale. Using 28 cron asph at 2.8. Results are as follows -<br>

at 1m distance scale reads 0.82m, at 2m distance scale reads 1.5m, at 3m distance scale reads 2m, at 4m distance scale reads 2.2 meters!<br>

The lens is a known lens that I have had for several years so I think I'm good there. So it's the sensor position or the adapter. The error suggests that the adapter is too thick or the sensor is further back in the camera than it should be.<br>

I may try going to the camera shop to see if they will let me try another adapter.<br>

I am in the same boat as you Soeren, if I can zone focus or scale focus, I can use this as a really great street shooter. If you can't scale focus, it is not usable as a street shooter.<br>

Charles</p>

<p>I have been doing this with a favorite Leica lens of mine, 28 cron, and a pany gf2 and found that it does not work as you would expect. Image quality is not the problem, it's the scale focus that is not working for me. I have a panasonic GF2 and the panasonic m adapter. The scale focus is totally out. I am interested to hear what others have to say. My feeling is that panasonic is not very fussed about the position of the sensor because it is a mirror-less system. Maybe you will get lucky and get one that has exact sensor positioning.<br>

You can focus manual lenses just fine if you just use the screen on the back of the camera, zoomed in, then focus by eye. But this is very slow and a real nuisance compared to a quick "focus by feel" or scale focus.<br>

The panasonic lenses work great though.<br>

Charles</p>

<p>Photographers dilemma - full kit vs paired down. If I take only one pair of underwear can I take an extra lens?<br>

I am in a similar situation, 2.5 weeks in Turkey coming up mid May. Photographers dream but ...<br>

We will be on the move with two kids 11 and 9, carry-on only.<br>

For this trip, I chose the "better point and shoot" option. Bought a Panny GF2 with a 14mm prime (28mm equiv.) and a 14 - 45 zoom (28mm to 90mm). Camera is tiny, lenses are tiny. Fits in a very small camera bag / pouch. It has a built in flash for those point and shoot moments. It has a decent m4/3 sensor and raw for when I'm feeling like something better.<br>

Compromise? Yes. Will I be happy? For sure. Great travel camera.<br>

To each his own ;)<br>

Mostly, have a great trip<br>

Charles</p>

<p>Hi Clint<br>

Sold my m8 and I'm M-less...for now ;)<br>

Two suggestions -<br>

Instead of exposure comp, try - lock with shutter half press, then open/close aperture as needed. I found that much faster for exposure comp on the fly. Not a perfect solution but as fast as it gets.<br>

For pre-focus speed, i like the tabbed lenses. Not everyone likes them but ... focus by feel - tab at 6 O-clock means I'm focused at about 1.5m. etc. Can get fairly close.<br>

Have fun<br>

Charles</p>

<p>I really like your work<br>

beautiful<br>

CG</p>

<p>On another note, make sure you take in the Stieglitz, Steichen, Strand exhibit at the metropolitan museum of art. I was just there two weeks ago and it was a very nice exhibit. And the met is a beautiful place. Fine to bring your camera in too as long as you turn off the flash!<br>

Also check out the international center of photography exhibits.<br>

CG</p>

 

<p>Larry, I have paired down to only two lenses for my K7, the 31 and the 50-135. Really nice combo. Love the 50-135. Never had a problem.<br>

Agree with the rest that the used price is way too high. Brand new is about $930 (in Canada) with extended warranty.<br>

Charles</p>

<p>Counter Point: I have the Leica 1.25X. I pop it on when I'm using my 90 Elmarit and I really like it. The magnifier is a really simple lens so I can't imagine you would go too far wrong with the knock-off. I recall some old threads that eyeglass wearers don't like the knock offs because they don't have the rubber rim like the Leica version. This may have been corrected over the years however.<br>

Chuck</p>

<p>Last one</p><div></div>

<p>Another</p><div></div>

<p>Anybody else find that when your kids get their hands on your camera the pictures they take are better and more creative than yours? It makes fee feel both proud and inadequate ;)</p><div></div>

<p>Nataliya,<br /> the one other factor for you to consider is (sorry don't know the term for this) how much you have to turn the focus ring to go from out of focus to in focus. I see that kids are your specialty.<br /> I really love my old 90 elmarit for portraits but I never use it for my kids because they move too fast for me. I'm sure there is someone more knowledgable than I that can comment on how these lenses behave in the hand as well as the choice of focal length.<br /> CG</p>

<p>Samuel, I just spit coffee out of my nose after reading your post.<br>

Orlando, I ordered two lenses from them and the transaction went very well. The lenses arrived promptly and nicely packed. No problems yet. FYI bought the 50-135 and the 31. Really nice lenses!<br>

CG</p>

Tim,

I also shoot pics at my daughter's soccer games.

Here are a few pointers that I find help alot:

 

I have settled on point focus (as most of the others have mentioned). Half press on shutter release to lock focus then recompose (don't move zoom though).

 

As for Fstop, I don't agree that you need an F number like 11. You should be able to lock focus close enough at much wider F numbers. In my opinion, you get better shots pushing the shutter speed up to 250 or greater. Depending on the available light, this often means using ISO 400 or 800 so you can maintain some depth of field as well (F 4 or 5.6).

 

Don't click the shutter while panning the camera if you have image stabilization turned on. Pause the camera first. This usually means centering your image slightly ahead of the shot and clicking when the action is framed in. (Pre focus with half press of shutter, move slightly ahead, pause, click)

 

Lens selection: A medium tele zoom works fine for kids soccer because you can usually stand at the sidelines. I am currently using the Pentax 50-200. I don't recommend this lens because it is too slow. I often find it hunts for focus. I plan to sell this and get the 50-135 F2.8. For me this will be ideal for kids sports from the sidelines - fast focus and enough reach.

 

Don't bother taking pictures when the action is at the other end of the field. Wait until the action is closer. Zoom in close but make sure you have enough in the scene for context.

 

Best tip of all, anticipate the action by opening both eyes. Personnaly, I have to close one eye at the last second to get the shot but I constantly open the other when I am hunting for the shot. Wait for the shot. Personally, I get better pics by taking fewer shots that are at exactly the right moment than if I take many, "motor drive style" shots.

 

One last tip. If the ball is kicked ahead, focus on the ball, hold focus, wait for a player come into the scene and catch the shot of foot on ball or on the follow-through.

 

Have fun

Sincerely

Charles

Thanks for the tips guys.

We had a great weekend in NY

CG

Bought a Leica M3 pre model from the Leica factory in Wetzlar many years ago for a couple hundred bucks.

Still had the original receipt too.

See Jim Lager's book if you don't know what an M3 pre-model is.

Sold it for tens of thousands!

CG

Hi friends from New York City.

This is yet another, "what to do in New York" question.

Am presently reading through the excellent forum threads on this topic but I am looking for something timely from

my Leica buddies. Inside scoop like, "they are giving away free Leica lenses on Sunday morning to the first 10

Canadians that show up with an M8".

 

Last time we were there (or was it longer ago?) we saw the HCB exhibit at the photography institute. We will

probably drop in there since it is only a block or two from our hotel.

 

My wife is in charge of picking a restaurant for dinner and for selecting live music for the evening.

I am in charge of daytime activities. We usually just wander around but I would like to ramp it up a notch.

Can anyone help me out with -

Interesting exhibits you personally have seen recently - photography and/or art

Theater - have you seen anything recently that is really good - also how to pick up last minute tickets.

While there are lots of threads on where to shoot pictures in New York, and we are not exactly new to the city,

if you have any suggestions such as, "the fall colors in central park are not to be missed", let's hear them.

 

We are staying mid-town but we like to walk and take the subway. We don't want to travel too far afield because

we arrive early Saturday morning and leave Sunday night.

 

Thanks

Charles

M7 with .85,

 

i don't wear glasses.

 

I use the 35 all the time on this (almost exclusively)

In fact when I pop on the 50, I often add the magnifier!

 

But, the 35 on the .85 does not give you much room around the frame-line as is part of the Leica range-finder philosophy - see what is coming and all that.

 

Here is a twist on that philosophy. With the .85 and also .85 with 1.25mag, I can work nicely with both eyes open. When I try that with lesser magnification it really is disconcerting but I suppose you could get used to it.

 

It really is a shame that it's not easier to find a place that will let you hold a leica and look through the various viewfinders. When I bought my m8, I first went to B&H to hold and view one. They said, yes we have one but no we won't let you hold it because it's in a box. I even asked the manager and he concurred that there is no way he was going to let me look at it. I then phoned Tamarkin and said, I don't want to walk all the way to your shop only to find out that I can only look at a pamphlet. They laughed and said, "of course we have demos and of course you can try them out"!

 

Good luck Michael

 

Charles

I use viewscan to scan from my 5400.

 

In documentation for Viewscan, when scanning B&W, viewscan will turn down the gain (or the light source?) to accommodate for B&W negatives. I can't seem to find the reference now though. Maybe there is more to the algorithm than just de-saturating the RGB image.

 

Anybody else recall seeing a reference to appropriate gain for scanning B&W negs versus color?

 

CG

I bought a Bronica GS-1 kit from them. Great buying experience and the equipment was better than described (in my opinion)

 

CG

Benjamin,

 

It sounds much the same as mine. It's very hard to compare the recording to live sound. If I put my ear right up to my camera it sounds similar to yours. Yours may have a slight slowing and then speeding up sound in the rewind but the overall sound is the same.

 

Charles

I hope I didn't scare anybody away from this camera! If I did, I apologize. As Noah and Andy have pointed out, it's the filter causing the color cast and you are not supposed to use the filter on a wide angle w/o the coding. This would be operator error! This was just me experimenting with my new camera. The cyan was expected. I'm not complaining about it. I posted the pics to show the pattern and the magnitude.

 

I am really enjoying the camera. It handles beautifully. I will make sure I post the 'fixes' - first the sharpie fix, then the fully coded lens.

 

Cheers

 

Charles