robertbody

November 25, 2013

400mm f/2.8 II is great but short for the smaller wildlife and birds

500mm might be too short too, but is better

600mm might be best, 500 + 1.4 would be close enough but not as good as bare 600mm for autofocus

800mm f/5.6 might be too long also because of its longer minimal focusing distance of 20 feet

Most economical would be 500mm IS f/4 version 1 (not 2), with a 1.4x III and 2x III

For birds and action I would want 1D4 or 1D X not 5D 3 if you count on action photos and quick changes

300mm with 2x could be economical and less weight.

Bringing both a 300mm f/2.8 and 500mm or 600mm is not fun at all, not even with 2 bodies. If you know your subject decide on 1 lens (unless it's the small 400mm f/5.6 for variety to a 600mm)

May 9, 2013

-- "CPS evaluation loan" is the act of borrowing of a lens/camera/etc to a Gold or Platinum member. Canon "loans it for 2 weeks", which doesn't include the shipping times, about 2 days each way, the return shipping is at your cost, so you get it for a little over a week.

-- The other is a "substitute" kind of a loan, when upon receiving your camera/lens/etc of a Gold/Platinum member, it is identified that the repair will take longer than the written down standard (about 48 hours for Platinum members, apart of shipping/etc.... 48 hours since identifying the problem). That "substitute" is a different kind of loan, identical to your item and due back once you get your item back.

-- The 30% and 60% discounts are real on a generic amount, about $250 for a minor and $350 for a major repair, identified before doing any work. Once work starts it 90% of the time ends with that being the final fee, but Canon can increase the estimate once more issues are discovered. If your lens has an AF or vignetting issues and you send it in, you will get that initial estimate with the discount, and that's most likely to be the final cost. CPS members get priority handling of repairs, that's real too.

March 4, 2013

When it's a business, the profit comes sooner with lesser investment, and then you can have 2 cameras, 1 as a backup for when 1 fails.

A better camera can be more motivating for anyone. If it really will make a difference then waiting a month or two while borrowing a different camera might work, especially if a cheaper camera is handicapping you.

It's the need versus want. Lenses matter too. I would hold out for the camera I want and borrowing for a month or 2 would be ok, because with the new camera would come new motivation.

February 19, 2013

Happy end is good, it shouldn't have been so hard... but why does your new 1D X need warranty work during the returnable period?

February 18, 2013

I wasn't happy with 1D III for ISO higher than 400, I would like it as a secondary, action only ISO 100-400 camera, while 1D IV is more of an all-arounder, better display (much better, you can't tell if the photo is sharp or not from 1D III display).

Older technology like 1D III is ok for some, maybe you should get one and try from own experience if it works for you, it just wouldn't work as a primary camera for me (1D X does work for me).

January 17, 2013

James, I think he means the rubber/nylon handgrip strap on the right hand side, used by some instead of a neck strap.

January 17, 2013

You mention battery pack cord, do you mean ACK-E4, and does it happen with just LP-E4 battery? I have reviewed pictures right away and never had your issue, the only time I might have, it would have been from accidently pressing another button (and realizing it) so there was no concern.

When you say the "review button", you mean the Play button right? Do you hold the camera the same way when you show someone and when you review yourself only? Happens in both cases?

I don't recall if I have auto-preview on myself, did you try setting your Auto review time to be 0, and then pressing the Play button to see if it makes a differnce and the image stays?

How about the Auto review and your Play button pressing interfering?

December 31, 2012

A lens might work for someone and not for someone else, especially a long range zoom like 24-105, 28-300, etc. The 28-300 costing a lot more than 18-200 might be a clue that the more expensive one could do something better.

Image quality depends on different things, and it's always the weakest link that spoils it, like wrong exposure, too much contrast in the composition (wrong framing or time of day), etc, etc.

A zoom, any zoom, has advantages of covering the focal range but disadvantages like being slower (f/5.6 vs f/2.8, etc) than a prime, or other kind of zoom lens. You have to switch primes if you don't have a zoom, but maybe then you think more and zoom less. Even with a zoom I prefer to set it to 35mm and then find a picture, not just look through the viewfinder and zoom in and out, which could work for some situations (if your subject is a moving person, animal and it's about the, and not much about the composition otherwise). The disadvantage of a zoom can be that it makes you lazy for composition and you limit yourself to standing in one place and zooming, rather than finding a composition that has several strengths that make it a great photo, such as a 35mm landscape photo with a person just in the right spot walking into the photo, as opposed to just a picture of a person where you wish you had included more surroundings but at 85mm it's just an Ok photo, maybe horizon is not even straight because the lens was getting heavy and you were handholding.

I would rather have a 2 zooms like 17-35mm and 70-200mm f/4, or others may use 24mm and 85mm primes only, in time you find out what works for you, but a big expensive heavy zoom wouldn't work for me for the photos I want.

December 24, 2012

100mm is too short for bugs, you have to be within a foot then... 180mm is better for macro even for flower details

135mm f/2 I like because it's lighter than 70-200 (the f/2.8 version) and is faster at f/2 and primes have a mental advantage when you get used to that focal length and focus on composition as opposed to zooming more than you should (when you're zooming during action as opposed to focusing on the right moment at a given focal length)

for people expressions from far I would like 300mm f/4, that's when you want to go undetected and get a blurred background too wide open, with 135mm you have to be a lot closer

Some like 100-400mm, I don't, I would rather have a 135mm and 400mm f/5.6 but there are exceptions (like without IS the 400mm becomes quite limiting for some applications, you need a sunny day)

180mm macro might do a double duty for both above, and be a good compromise

70-200mm has its uses, lets you frame quickly in changing scenes -- that might be the best option. 100-400 might get too heavy in time, 135mm not great for landscapes or varying framing (it is best for portraits whether with co-operating subjects or strangers too, but it can be limiting, unless you're used to the idea of primes and getting some shots while not getting the best framing on others -- having to crop after)

6% with a 105mm on 1.5 crop sensor, as close as I could be, about a foot away

90% crop of a picture with bee, 105mm, 1.5 crop sensor

anything bug related you want longer than 105mm

80% crop with 135mm on 1D X

63% crop with 135mm on 1D X - 60% is still ok, 40% crop not so much, that's the limitation of using a prime, with 70-200 I'd be using 200mm, but wide open wouldn't be f/2 but f/2.8, some difference (but then 200mm at f/2.8 vs 135mm at f/2), if you have runners coming at you where difference between 135mm and 200mm is just a fraction of a second away, then I'd pick 135mm, or if you have some control or slower changing framing, but for variety 70-200 will let you reframe quickly and get a better framing -- but like I said if you're used to thinking with a 135mm, then it becomes a better tool in some situations for some people

December 11, 2012

50mm is good from up close, like 6 feet, 135mm is good from 10 feet, 20, 30... a way to isolate the background from the subject, that's what I would suggest -- Canon 135mm f/2

December 8, 2012

I would not get a third party charger or battery for experiences as above... instant or eventual side effects. $45 for a new LC-E6 charger is not bad. $300+ for LC-E4 charger (for 1D bodies) is.

Especially if you only have 1 or 2 batteries and your charger/battery fails, and you can't take pictures.

December 3, 2012

There is a 7D disliking thread below..... it's great for some, not for all.

I tried 5d2 and didn't like it, I was in minority I know, but even color rendition was different from the 1d4 color I was used to.

7D I wasn't motivated to try (since I already was using 1D4), and still now i wouldn't be, I would rather want to try a 5D3 if picking from your list..... even if I would even more prefer a 1DX because I like it's "pause to think" AF which 1D4 didn't do for me, it was just shoot even if it didn't have time to acquire proper focus, it didn't favor focus (versus rate) even though my settings told it to -- I tried a different copy, and same, but it was something I had to live with, but now with 1DX I have more interest in its AF and all around benefits too (full frame, low light besides having action camera benefits).

Having a budget... well having a $6500 budget, I would get 500mm f/4 and 40D for birds, because while the 10megapixel size wouldd be ok but not great, getting to use 500mm f/4 would be great. I would favor that lens for birds (on a full frame or not body), but it is way expensive and maybe 400mm f/5.6 will have to do, but still I would prefer to first try 5D3 with 400mm f/5.6 and use 5D3 as an all around camera (even if 7D had a bigger buffer, and the 1.6 crop "benefit"), as opposed to 5D2 for landscapes and 7D for birds.

With birds you want to get a 400mm or longer, and go take pictures often, and learn their ways and if you cant' get longer lenses, then learn to sit and wait as opposed to approach and scare away

And if birding is only seasonal for you, or wears out when it seems hard, then you're still left with a more all around camera of 5d3

If all you have is a 300mm, then that's all you have (400mm is better) but if you keep going and keep trying, sooner or later some great shot must happen if you persist

2009-02-13-riparian-herons-94218.psd - Nikon D300 2009-02-13 17:48:29 - (lens: 300mm f/2.8 AF-S) 1/2000s <a title="Sunny-16 f/stop, aperture, ISO table" href="http://robertbody.com/answers/support/fstop.html" target="_blank">f</a>/4 - ISO-200 - 300mm (x1.5=450mm) Exp: Aper AE.Multi-segment. -2 step. (Flash:Yes) AdobeRGB - NEF(raw) - 23 MB - Daylight/5500K Size: 3608x2405 pixels - 71% crop Orig: 4288x2848 pixels - Res: 240x240dpi

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December 3, 2012

If photos are for fun and camera is not fun, but 30D was, try to get a 30D or 40D. 50D started it with high pixel concentration so if that's the problem you're identifying, then 7D or 50D or 60D would not do. This was from a 40D and 500mm f/4 and super light and a little darkening, minimal effort and 100% crop. I was happy with the combination of the 2 (both borrowed) but it was only this specific combination I liked for this specific subject type (birds), it wasn't my primary focus, I was happier with D300 and 17-35, 50, 105mm macro at the time. <img src="http://robertbody.com/animals08/images/2008-07-25-zoo-eagle-40d_8971.jpg" alt="" /> The point here is that 40D was enough (and would be now enough) for me for a picture above, while a better camera with a lesser lens would not be. I had the right focal length for what I wanted, and the image quality was there from the lens, and what the camera delivered was great for my use. Years later I was using 1D4 and when compared to 5D2 landscape shot, the red color of red rocks during the period of last light (there... still far from sunset, but last minutes of the light, blocked by a hill behind me) -- 5D2 was just way off in color and it was too much work (and no motivation to address it, why if I am happy with 1D4 color?). While 5D2 works great (and now 5D3) for some, it is not for everyone 7D might work for some, doesn't work for you (whether you want to try another copy or not, that doesn't matter)..... if photography is for fun, and you find a camera that's fun, use it... if the new one is not fun, go back to the old one..... or try a new one (try as in don't commit to it until you feel you want to, from some exposure to it) Besides the obvious flaw of using a cheap lens on any body.... or taking picture with wrong light / time of day / etc.. if the camera doesn't deliver consistently, use a different camera :)

November 10, 2012

As far as creativity and something new, try a fisheye lens... HDR processing (combining multiple images into one).... also "dragging shutter" (Google that, it's basically causing intentional blur, also something that can be done in PHotoshop afterwards -- both have their uses) There are also accidents that can turn out... like a new flash that's syncing at 1/250s because the High-Sync is not on as you thought it was (you could try an intentional accident, purposely over-exposing because normal is just plain looking -- truly an accident here though) <img src="http://robertbody.com/people12/images/2012-11-04-fhills-fury24-lt-1dx_15311.jpg" alt="" />

November 10, 2012

Jim there is also a PDF downloadable version of the manual, making searches even faster sometimes, you could just search by "adobe" or "srgb" that way. Just type in "T3i manual" into Google

As was suggested above, stay in SRGB unless you know why you want ADOBE RAW, that's after much reading. SRGB is the usual normal way to go.

If you're looking for better color/contrast/etc, the camera settings are of limited benefit, and generally post-processing (which stands for Photoshop editing) lets you make adjustements even though it is "post" or after taking the image, as opposed to the in-camera settings which take effect at the time of taking pictures -- but the better you get the more you'll stay away from in-camera settings which only effect JPG file usually -- and you'll be using Photoshop and RAW format (assuming your camera takes RAW, I think T3i does)

So rather than a single setting to flip on/off, look for Photoshop tips/etc and focus on post-processing, you can do amazing things and make a pretty-good image even better. (doesn't work for making a poor image into amazing though)

October 22, 2012

I tried the firmware upgrade and it's quite annoying to use during night scenes, but better than nothing in bright daylight. Talking to Canon again on the topic, finally some technical details on the topic... the red light is shined from the sides, illuminating whatever is on the black-only LCD screen (such as all focusing points possible on the black LCD if you choose to show them for reference) which leads to the annoying red light from sides at night, as opposed to highlighting just the square of the chosen focusing point in red as on 1D IV. On the 1Dx if you have all focusing points showing, and you turn the new fimware fix feature on (burried in the menus), everything will be red through the viewfinder, so if you show all 61 points, all of them will blink several times in red too. I like the accuracy of the 1dx autofocus better than 1d iv, but I really liked the "normal" red focusing points on 1d iv, while seeing all the possible spots for focusing spots (in pale black outline).

October 22, 2012

The car charger cable is a separate <a href="http://www.adorama.com/CACB570.html">$34 purchase</a> and quite handy. I always thought its the heat buildup that was the reason for charging just 1 battery at a time, the charger heats up quite a bit while charging or conditioning a battery.

October 18, 2012

Awesome about the Red illumination for 1DX.... what were they thinking in first place? Even in daylight there are situations with dark subjects that you can't see where you're focusing in the middle of the changing action. Now for that wrongly polarized landscape-direction display when you can't see it with polarized sunglasses... that can be fixed with a quarter wave retarder film, from the inside. How could that get overlooked? And 5D3 has the same issue because they have the same LCD. when is that firmware upgrade due to be released for the red focusing points?

October 13, 2012

There is a difference between 1D bodies and 5D family, try a 1D IV or a 1D X and you'll see.. especially for birds in flight, or anything really. When you get used to 1D bodies it's hard going back. If you have to work for an image, such as action or changing conditions, when you need to respond quickly, need a large buffer... need to push images in post-processing, if you take a few thousand shots with the idea of getting a few dozen just perfect.... try 1D bodies.

After trying 1DX for 2 days I am impressed by some things but discouraged by others (coming from 1D IV) such as total rearrangements of just a few buttons but it makes a big difference if you're used to the +/- and Liveview buttons, as well as the most complained about lack of red square illumination of the focusing point in AI servo -- even aside from dim light it's an issue, it's a totally different behavior from the perfectly fine illumination interface of 1D IV. And the back display is polarized so that in landscape orientation and while wearing sunglasses the screen looks black, but turning it a few degrees it's fine -- absolutely a flaw, trying to make a screen less reflective in daylight while making it impossible to read with polarized sunglasses on?

1DX or 1D4+1Ds3? right now I would pay to have that back polarized back display replaced, but what about the lack of red highlights of a focusing point? To some it's a showstopper. Some 1DX bodies sell for $6000 with just a few hundred shots, and sellers don't say the real reason.

As far as image quality I would pick 1DX, and it is 2 cameras in one, and some (as far as low light goes), and has better AF, but for my uses it has flaws, which can be fixed in firmware... or can they? and will they?

October 4, 2012

Image Quality will come from several sources, quality of light, proper exposure and post-processing. Full frame will make a difference, and different cameras handle higher ISO differently. Daytime ISO 100 will be quite similar between cameras while ISO-400, 800 and higher will be not. Trying a new-to-you camera is good once in a while, whether now or later.

September 26, 2012

And I agree that moving to full frame is not for everybody, if you go from 1.6 cropped sensor you used for years, all your lenses will feel differently, maybe in a good way, maybe not.

You will get the wide angle lens acting like one, but the telephoto won't reach as far. Best is to try before you commit, like renting from lensrentals.com or borrowlenses.com, or in a store take a few shots with lens you know and compare with what you have? Or buy from fredmiranda.com used, see if you love it, hate it, and if it's not for you, you can sell it for close what you bought it for, after a few days, weeks, months.

September 26, 2012

Like it has been said, when the camera is holding you back.

When you have the lenses you like and want....... low light let's say

In this shot the specs are: ISO-1600, 1/45s at f/2.8 (max aperture of the lens)

I wanted this shutter speed to get the water look, but I wanted the ISO to be lower (or look better) and I couldn't open the lens up anymore, so to get this shot and similar shots, I want the ISO to look better, which would mean I want a full-frame sensor or a newer sensor with less noise.

Or when you want to shoot action and your camera has 3fps for example and you want faster, but that doesn't mean that pointing and pressing the button will get you a lot of great shots for action, there is still the technique, but maybe the focusing speed of the camera is holding you back or something else camera specific.

In theory I would rather have 35L and 135L on a full frame older generation camera, but in practice I want all the variety possible for photos, so that body would need to be 1D and specifically 1D4 or 1D X to make me happy and get all the shots I want to get.

September 26, 2012

flare is also terrible when shooting into the sun with 135L as I reminded myself today, it's documented to be better on 70-200mm f/2.8 IS II (from the version I as well), and it is.

What I didn't mention earlier was that I like 135L for the pets (dogs) and people shots, without the weight of the 70-200 II, especially on a 1D body, and I mean not 10 minutes of occasional shots, I mean a lot longer and holding the lens up or carrying it around.

September 25, 2012

The rest of your plan sounds good, I just want to comment on 135L vs 70-200 f/4 or f/2.8... I find that when I want to use the 135L, I don't want to use the zoom, but there are times like for landscapes when the lack of IS just makes the 135L not a good choice for me (low light and slow shutter speed need). So while I would have use for the zoom year round, there would be some special periods of time when I would just totally want 135L.

A good combination is either

1) 135L (if you do use it and like it a lot) + 70-200 f/4 IS

or

2) 70-200mm f/2.8 IS II, the bigger heavier choice for 70-200mm range.

The choice of body can matter, your 5D is not bad but a 1D body weight + big zoom and lots of hand holding is not fun for a long time (like 4hours and more)

I'm just a fan of 135L :).

May 26, 2012

Upper Antelope Canyon will be a zoo, crazy amount of people. I would use a tripod, single lens like 14-24mm (with adapter for EOS) and a camera, that's all. And go twice to improve your chances but there is no right day in summer, every day it's overcrowded. Low from the ground too to get the light beam and surrounding area

with only 17mm on 1.3 crop sensor, this had to be expanded into blackness from a vertical shot

17-40mm is more practical to use, even if the autofocus is best left alone and manually focusing through live view is better.

17-40mm + 70-200mm is what I would bring as 2 zooms, especially with your many places to see in a short time, zooms. Primes are great if you know the area and know the specific shots you're after. In Arches I would want it wider than 17mm.

Monument Valley, bring some cash, get a small group guide, see the cool spots you can only see with a guide

Arches is friendlier, except the crowds at Delicate Arch, many arches to pick from, at right time of day

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Posts posted by robertbody