jason woodruff

<p>Thank you all for your replies, i guess the problem comes down to this: when using the left and right AF points at a wide aperture, the camera is telling me I'm focused when i am clearly not. I can't fine tune the focusing for the outer points, because the center AF point focuses right on. I am inclined to believe the fault lies in the lens, because i don't have the same problem with other lenses on this camera. Will taking the lens in for repair fix this problem?<br>

Thank you all...<br>

(I'll be trying your test tonight, Rodeo, thanks)</p>

<p>Haven't had the time to try it at a variety of focal lengths, I've simply noticed lately that I'm out of focus along the edges when I'm supposed in focus. More testing is certainly warranted, but it's going in tomorrow.</p>

<p>Lorne, I do get the same w/o the flash.<br>

Georg, the way i focused this was to recomposed the shot with the calibrator to either side, the focused on it using the far-left or far-right AF points. This could be a flaw in my logic, but the outcome is the same--My camera telling me it's in focus when it sooooooooo isn't. Im pretty certain this is a flaw with the lens, as i don't have such drastic results with other lenses.</p>

<p>Hello All,<br>

Noticed as off late, some <em>severe</em> focal falloff at low apertures on my Nikon 70-200 VR. I understand some is falloff is to be expected, but i find this much to be unacceptable. Unfortunately, it seems most severe at the right side of the frame, or exactly where a subject's eyes are when shooting in portrait (vertically). Other than shooting at a wider aperture (unacceptable, otherwise why spend the money on the 2.8?), what can I do. Still under the warranty.<br>

Here's the link...<br>

http://www.joeallenrestaurant.com/jason/focal%20falloff.jpg</p>

<p>Thanks all!</p>

<p>Thanks, all, for the info. I've simply got a workflow down and was hoping not to have to alter it. Don't care at all for the Nikon software, but I do have Aperture. Perhaps it's time to really get to know it. Disappointing news, nonetheless.</p>

<p>Has anyone been able to find one that works? I've tried this...<br>

http://download.cnet.com/Adobe-Camera-Raw/3000-2192_4-35429.html<br>

...and have had zero success.</p>

<p>Thank you all.</p>

<p>D700, doesn't happen with other lenses.</p>

<p>here it is...</p><div></div>

<p>the photo...</p>

<p>Hello All,<br>

So, I've noticed a little bit of DoF funkiness in my Nikon 70-200 2.8 VR lens. It seems the right side (when i shoot horizontally, top when i shoot vertically) seems to be, um, well, <em>fuzzy,</em> when it should be in focus. This is a full frame shot at F5.6 and you can see just how drastically the focus drops off. I did my best to ensure that the ruler was perpendicular to the lens and at the distance on the left as on the right. The effect is the same, just less obvious, as i go to a narrower aperture. Any idea what's going on? Please tell me, as I've never found this lens to be as sharp as I'd thought it should be..</p>

<p>Yeah,<br>

Wound up disabling Shades and things seem to return to normal. It had been a useful tool for awhile, but i think something must've changed somewhere...</p>

<p>Hello all,<br>

I have a 27" iMac intel, and have ben running my my calibration software faithfully every 60 days or so for years (monaco optix). However, the last time I did this, the calibration seems to be much brighter than the dozen or so times I've done it before. I can think of nothing I'd done differently this time as opposed to the others, so I'm wondering if people had any ideas as to what might be going on. I am running shades, and I noticed there's a new "tint colour" slider set to black. Other than that, my settings are as follows; White point "native", gamma 2.2. <br>

Anyone?</p>

<p>Something, i think, no one has mentioned--make sure you're set to matrix or center-weighted metering. If it's on spot, that'll mess you up too.</p>

<p>I was hoping for the same, believe me!</p>

<p>Thanks to all who replied.<br>

Afraid she's taking a trip Melville, as the doctor wants to see her.</p>

 

<p>Hey Shun,<br>

Usually I'm in single shot mode, with single point focus, HOWEVER...<br>

it doesn't matter what combination I'm in right now, nothing's changing. I'm either stuck at one focal point or none at all. <br>

Methinks it's messed up.</p>

 

<p>Holy cow, I was higher than the flash sync speed. I know that my upper limit is 1/250th, but didn't notice at the time. In the past, when i've pushed it over 1/250th, I've simply come away under-exposed. I must've bumped the shutter speed without noticing, then been so shocked by the band that i didn't realize...<br>

Thank you for that explanation, as I've never seen that before.<br>

However, still having focal point wonk-ocity. The focal point indicator only shows up about 15% of the time, usually after I take off and re-mount the lens, but then i can't change it's position (no, it's not locked). Then, after one shot it disappears. I haven't changed any settings, and I'm no novice, I know my way around this camera. Plus, when comparing the focal point through the lens and through the info button--a total mismatch. Also, once, after remounting the lens, I saw all 51 focal points light up in black and everything outside the dx/fx "separation line" light up all in red--now, that's scary! I've tried both dx and fx lenses and the result is the same.<br>

I think I'm confused because I'm dealing with two problems. One of which was my own oversight, the second of which seems to be a real malfunction. One seemed to be coloring the other--where's Dr. House?<br>

So, I thank everyone who's contributed so far and absolutely welcome every other idea.<br>

J</p>

<p>Hello All<br>

Thanks for taking the time.<br>

I'm shooting with a D700, nearly new.<br>

While shooting today, i got a strange black band across the bottom of my frame, which miraculously disappeared later on. Also, my focus indicator (through the lens) has gone all wonky--sometimes it's there, sometimes it's not. It's not a lens issue, as I've tried a couple, and the camera didn't take any knocks or shots.<br>

Any ideas?</p>

<p><img src="http://www.joeallenplayers.com/JWphotoNYC/whatthef_files/sDSC_2991.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hello forumers,<br>

I'm just about ready to go full frame and upgrade to a D700 (which I'm giddy about). But before I take that plunge, I'm hoping the good folks here might be ahead of the Quantum engineers, as they have yet to post any info regarding their lights' compatibilities/non-compatibilites with said camera. Quantum was nice enough to reply with an email letting me know I'll be contacted as soon as their guys are finished testing things out, but I want my new camera now now NOW!<br>

I've been using a quantum T3dR (a T2 upgraded to QTTL functionality) along with the D22w-R with my D200 in a lot of no-time-to-really-light situations, and have really loved the results the QTTL has given me--much more accurate and reliable (I've found) than Nikon's own iTTL. So my question is this...<br>

Has anyone here made this switch, or have any insight into my query? I assume using it on manual will be fine, as well slipping my older T2 into auto (please tell me if I'm wrong on that account), but I'm mostly curious about the QTTL mode and any other gremlins I might uncover along the way.<br>

Thank you, everyone, for your help.</p>

<p> </p>

It could be because your monitor isn't calibrated correctly, if at all. That's my guess. Another slightly pricey bit of hardware/software you

need if you want to be accurate.

When i say eyeballing, i mean working through the Mac calibration process. It has the sliders and one is supposed to try

and match this to that and that to the other. I'm well aware that that isn't a satisfactory calibration process, that's why i

got the monaco optix years ago and have kept my old monitor calibrated.

 

The question I'm posing is...are there any other aluminum imac users who've calibrated their display using the optix xr,

and how'd you wind up getting it to work properly (see original post)

 

Thanks again.

Hey G,

 

Hoping not to buy any additional software/hardware, so i want to stick with Monaco Optix. Any users out there with the

same set-up?

Hello All.

 

So, trying to calibrate my new 24" iMac display. As you mac users know, one can eyeball it using the display preferences or use one of

the generic profiles. I've tried using my Monaco Optix XR and run into trouble on the third or fourth step, the dimness step. I'd read that

the display is simply too bright, so I've got shades running, but when i get to the dimness step, i go from to dim to too bright with no way to

get to the "good green" area, either through the dimness control on the keyboard or the shades slider.

 

So, my question to all of you is...how'd YOU do it? Or, have you found one of the presets to be perfectly usable.

 

Thanks, All!

Hello Everyone,

 

So I've been using a Mac G4 with Adobe CS2 for years and will finally be upgrading to a shiny

new 3.06GHz Intel iMac. But, before I do, I thought I'd seek out a few answers to a few

questions so there'll be no upsetting surprises once I make the switch. Posted on the Apple

website too, but my questions are mostly photographer related, so you dashing men and women

may have better answers. To give you an idea of what i do, I'm a semi-pro, and shoot some

photojournalism, PR, small magazines, and events. Here we go, in no particular order...

 

1) Is the iMac's screen "callibratable"? More specifically, with a Monaco Optix XR? I haven't

really found an answer to that online, so I'm hoping someone here will have the answer. I don't

need incredibly-hyper-super-duper accuracy, but I do want accurate. And if it's not callibratable,

what do you people do to ensure your colors?

 

2) I've been using a CS2 Bridge>Photoshop workflow since it's introduction, and I'm a bit worried

that CS2 won't entirely work on the new intel macs. What's been your collective experience

there?

 

Does CS2 run on the intel iMacs? Does it run well?

 

My idea is that I'll make a switch to Aperture for correction and processing, then use photoshop

for any fine tuning (whitening eyes/teeth, etc.). As I try to keep my images as unaltered as

possible, and so rarely do anything besides the basics, so, is this a workable solution, you

think? Trying to keep those expenses down, y'know.

 

3) I know there are big Nikon NX and Lightroom fans around, and my experience with both those

programs are minimal. They both ran so slowly, and felt so awkward (honestly, it's been years

since I gave them a go, and even then my computer wasn't optimized for 'em) that they just

weren't useful to me. But, seeing as there's a new iMac on the horizon, perhaps that'll change.

What do you fine people swear by? I guess i can always download the trials and see how they

work for me this time around.

 

4) Do I need me a top o' the line video card for image processing? Or will the standard NVIDIA

8800/512MB GDDR 3 do me just fine?

 

As a money-conscious semi-pro, this is gonna be a pretty big investment. It's something that's

gotta be in top shape for years to come, and I don't want to spend money on useless features or unnecessary software, so your opinions will be weighed heavily.

 

Thanks to everyone for your time!

Perhaps I didn't get specific enough with my explanation/query...

 

I have observed, over the course of more than a year of shooting with my d200 (which i

adore), that the LCD screen tends to show a much brighter version of every picture i

take--there's much more detail in the dark tones when i view a shot on the LCD screen

then when I transfer it to the computer and open it in Photoshop. MUCH more. I also get

much brighter white tones on the LCD screen then what I've actually captured. Now, I

calibrate my monitor every 90 days, I'm using the correct color workspace, and the d200's

LCD is set to -2. So perhaps I'm focusing on the wrong end...?

 

Could it be that I've got my preferred Photoshop RAW defaults incorrect? I like to open

pics with "no change" (exposure on 0, shadows at 5, brightness at 50, contrast at 25,

saturation at 0, and white balance set to "as shot", while working with "normal" on the

optimize menu of the d200. Could it be that therein lies the huge discrepancy?

 

I'd just like to get an accurate representation on my LCD of what I'll see on my monitor

when i download (when using no auto adjustments.)

 

I appreciate all your comments and your sharing of your experiences.

 

Jason