mike_moffa

<p>I assume that if I decide to use the video only and not use the live sound and dub in music for the final product, this isn't an issue.</p>

<p>Thanks PuppyFace and Matt for your responses. Wow. A lot to consider. I've been in photography for over 45 years, doing only stills in both studio and location work, and thought I should offer some video (limited) mixed in with my stills. If I took on this new venture, I only want to do it properly with good sound as I know the camera is capable of producing good video. Thanks again.</p>

<p>I own a 5D Mark ii and have always used it specifically for still photographs. I now want to incorporate some video into my work, and need a suggestion for a good mic for the 5Dii. I have read reviews on different mics and they are mixed saying that some are really good mics but are bad on the 5Dii. It seems that the 5Dii has some problems with hissing using an external mic because the system has an auto adjust for the audio that can't be adjusted manually. The internal mic is pathetic so I want to invest in an external one. Any suggestions from owners of the 5Dii who use an external mic with no problems would be appreciated. I am looking for a mic to attach to the hot shoe, not external or lapel mic. Thanks</p>

<p>I purchased the 5D about 5 months ago, so it's apparently from the last batch produced, and the LCD is better than my 30D and 40D. In fact, it's pretty color accurate.</p>

<p>To answer Ruben's question, the camera I was referring to was in fact the D30, the 3 mp camera, not the 30D. The test prints were done by the lab, with no manipulation, and were straight prints. Both myself and the lab were totally impressed as to what size prints can come out of this 3 mp camera.</p>

<p>My first DSLR was the 30D. To see what the camera could do, I did a test sitting of a child in the studio, did some tweeking in photoshop, and sent the file to our lab to make test prints from 8x10 to 30x40. The lab wanted to see what the camera could do. All of the prints from 8x10 up to the 30x40 were amazingly good. This is of course from a 3.1 megapixel camera. The lab was amazed what could be done with this camera. If the file is good, the prints will also be good.</p>

<p>Thanks to all for the responses. I am convinced that the problem is definitely the use of slow shutter speeds, hand held, with this lens. I have never had this problem with the 24-105mm, probably because it has IS. I'm sure the weight of this lens is the problem. Through the years I have always been able to hand hold medium format cameras at slow shutter speeds ( back in the film days) that were much heavier than the digital SLR'S of today. Perhaps it's the weight of the lens (and my age) that causes this. And as a footnote to Ken, who was kind enough to offer an answer which was... <em><strong>"Basic newbie user error... don't blame the lens for lack of technique"</strong> </em> . I have been in the photography business for 40 years.</p>

<p>I own the 24-105mm f 4 lens and use it primarily on the 5D. On two occassions recently, I rented (from Calumet Photographic) the 24-70 2.8 lens to compare it to the 24-105. To say bthe least I was extremely disappointed. Unless they are renting me a bad copy, the 24-105 is much sharper, has IS, and I feel is a much better lens. Has anyone had the same experience as this? Also, I find that the lens being so heavy, and without IS, unless you are really steady (handheld) at slow shutter speeds, a 30th - 50th of a second, the images are just not sharp. Am I nuts, or has anyone else experienced this?</p>

I recently purchased a 30D. I have two 20D bodies. I tried to erase all the

images from a few extreme III 4 gig cards on the 30D that had been used on the

20D, and the erase process got half way through, and then froze. The camera

locked up, and the red light on the main function wheel on the camera back came

on and would not shut off. Turning off the camera did not help, and the red

light stayed on. Only after taking the battery out did the camera shut off. I

tried this with several cards and the same thing happened. I then put the cards

in the 20D, and they erased with no problem. Has anyone had this problem?

The fact of the matter is that TTL ETTL, all the TTL's don't work. Exposures are inconsistent. It's not you, it happens to everyone. I have found that since going to digital five years ago, the only way to get proper exposures consistently is by going totally manual, the way we used to shoot years ago. It works.......consistently. You just have to know your distances, zones, and set your camera properly.

I'm sorry I didn't do a search on google or check previous questions on the forum. I am new to this forum, and wanted to get responses from members who actually had this lens and could comment on their experience with it. I'm sorry to have caused such a reaction to a simple question.

Thanks to those members who did contribute their experience with the lens.

I am interested in purchasing the 17-55 2.8 IS for my 20D's, specifically to be

used on wedings. I have the 70-200 2.8 IS and love the lens. If you own the

17-55 2.8 IS can you give me your review of the lens (pros and cons). Is the

lens worth the money? Any feedback would be appreciated.

I own several 20D bodies and the 550EX flash. I have found that TTL

does not work properly with the 550EX,and therefore shoot everything

on manual. I also own six metz 54MZ4i units, and these are the units I

use mostly.My question is, for those of you who own the 20D and 580EX

strobe, do you find that TTL works, and is it better than the 550EX.

I no longer use the shoe cord 2, but when I did I experienced the same problem, and had to replace the cord at least once, sometimes twice a year. It's obviously a design flaw, as the shoe cannot hold the weight of the flash, and as soon as the contact loosens, you loose contact and the flash will not fire. I returned the cords to Canon several times, and they replaced the cord only one time for me. I'm sure Canon is totally familiar with the problem, but just haven't corrected it. Crazy glue doesn't work, as the weight of the flash loosens it again. Good luck. I don't believe there is a solution to the problem.

TTL does not work on any digital camera with any flash. The exposures are inconsistent. The only way to get proper exposures all the time is to set your camera on manual, setting the shutter speed and aperture manually, and either set the flash on manual or on auto. To do this you must first do test exposures using a flash meter to find out the output of the flash. This technique is the way professional photographers have been using flash for years. TTL and ETTL simply doesn't work. Jim Tweedie has an article on flash technique that you should read. The link for this article is http://www.shootsmarter.com/infocenter/jt017.html

If you read this article and use this method, your exposures will be right on every time.............honest!

I recently purchased a point a shoot digital Canon from Abe's. The price was substantially lower than any other outlet on the net. The store called me to verify the order, since it was paid by credit card, and they advised me of fraudulant card use when purchasing on the web. After I verified the order it was shipped immediately. The camera carried with it a USA Canon warranty, not international warranty, which many dealers have when the prices are lower. I was very happy with the experience with Abe's.

I too had the same problem with freezing up and err99 appearing on the LCD. I just got the camera and grip back today from Canon. I don't know if they did anything with the grip, but it seems tighter. I'll know more when I use the camera within the next few days.

I have been using the D60 since it first came out. Other than the autofocus being terrible in low light, and exposures using the 550EX strobe on TTL being erratic, the picture quality is very good. No trouble at all with sharpness. Images are excellent. Just purchased the 20D and absolutely love the camera, except for initial problem with freezing up and error messages. Canon has some bugs to work out with the new 20D, and they are aware of the issues with it.

After contacting Canon with the error 99 problem, Canon has advised me to return the 20D to them for service. What they will do to correct the problem, I have no idea. Hopefully, the problem of freezing up, and the error 99 will be corrected. Other than this problem, I love the camera.

I also own the D30 and D60 cameras. I just purchased the 20D, and although I am having freeze up problems, I love the camera. The auto focus (especially in low light) is drastically improved from the D30 and D60. The exposures when using the 550 flash are drastically improved, and consistent. The D30 and D60 when using flash were inconsistent. Overall, the 20D is well worth the investment. Canon just has to correct the freeze up problem.

I recently purchased the 20D. I too am having problems. First, it was freezing up problems (eight times on one job), and the only way to correct the problem was to remove batteries in the BG-2E grip. After contacting Canon, I was told they were aware of the problem and suggested I download the new firmware. I did so, used the camera on another job this past Saturday, and have a new problem. An error message comes up (err 99) which according to the manual is corrected by removing the batteries. This problem, according to the manual is caused when using non Canon lenses which are not communicating with the camera. In my case, this is not true because I use Canon lenses. Removing the batteries does correct the problem, but that is not the answer. Canon has to correct this problem.