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mark_ng

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Posts posted by mark_ng

  1. <p>Thanks for the replies guys. <br>

    I must tell you that I will be going with my girlfriend, who is not going to get the best pictures, but rather just to have a good time, so some locations are based on good hikes and the like, rather than picture taking.<br>

    @ David - what about up to Dante's view at night, as in the dark in moonlight? I also intend to visit the dunes in the night as well<br>

    @ Greg - great link. Thanks a lot<br>

    @ John - Thanks for those tips. Your suggestions are not in common death valley guides. I'll be sure to check some of those out.</p>

  2. <p>Thanks for the responses so far.<br>

    I'm thinking of shooting 6x6s and bringing out the digital point and shoot to take some quick shots for uploads and the such, just to save me some time for facebook and the sorts. <br>

    I found out that the sun rises at 650 and sets at 1630, but as Bill has said, the angle will be at its lowest, so I should be able to get some cool shots. There is also a half moon (would be better full, but still not half bad), so I think I'll walk out to the dunes and go up to Dante's view for some nice night sights, although I do not have wide enough glass to do anything spectacular. <br>

    Check out this interim itinerary<br>

    day 1 (arrive at around 9-10)<br>

    Visitor centre, badwater, Devil's golf course, golden canyon/zabriskie point<br>

    Day 2 (wake up early)<br>

    sand dunes, death valley buttes, charcoal kilns, mosaic canyon, dante's view at night<br>

    Day 3 (another early day)<br>

    titus canyon drive, fall canyon, scotty's castle, ubehebe crater. <br>

    You guys think I should add/subtract anything? I would like to head to racetrack, but the car probably wont handle it. I heard the titus canyon drive is a bit easier on the car, so it might work out there. </p>

  3. <p>Hi guys, <br>

    I'm thinking of going to death valley in december for 3 days for a bit of fun and picture taking. December is a time of short days, so I need to time things very well in order to fit in as much as possible. Aside from the photography, I would also like to do a bit of hiking. Does anyone have a good itinerary to outline my trip so that I can make the most of my 3 days? Also, please comment if 3 days is too much/too short. <br>

    Thanks in advance for your answers<br>

    Mark</p>

  4. <p>Thanks Ken. I didn't know that the files were ~20mb! That's pretty hefty. Funny enough that if DNG could be shot alone, there would only be more capacity for 3-4 extra shots, it sure saves the time to delete the JPGs. <br>

    Considering your information, it looks like 4GB would be the minimum, with possibility for an 8GB card</p>

  5. <p>Well...I do DOF by finding the range of the farthest and closest targets, then use the DOF markings on the lens to estimate a reasonable focus with corresponding aperture. It's slow, but accurate. Using an SLR DOF preview isn't really that accurate as you sort of need to judge by eye.</p>
  6. <p>If you are shooting street landscape and architecture, there really is no reason to get a 90. <br>

    For architecture, I think you might need something like a 21 (getting to some expensive glass territory), plus a viewfinder. For street, perhaps you can do with a 40 summicron, in which the CL already has the framelines. <br>

    Leica viewfinders are great in low light compared to SLRs, as there is no lens or mirror dimming the field. </p>

  7. <p>...well that was up until I learned that the shipping is $40. Guess that's the premium one pays for fedex - which also means high customs charges. The postage and customs probably works out to cost as much as the back itself. Too bad they don't offer the cheaper USPS.</p>
  8. <p>Thanks the for input. I can appreciate that it is better to spend more on a known working back, rather than chance it with a questionable one. I think KEH may be the way to go on this one. I have had bought from there before and they seem to have very honest ratings. <br>

    Thanks for the links Brian, I wasn't aware that the matching of inserts with the case doesn't really matter all that much. It will definitely save me a couple bucks. </p>

  9. <p>hey guys<br>

    What are the differences between the different models of A12 backs through the years? I know the newer models have the slide holder, but are there any other differences? It appears compatibility is certainly not an issue. </p>

  10. <p>Thanks for your reply. Your point is taken that it depends how many shots I take before having access to a computer. However, I'm struggling a bit with the write speeds between cards. A 12.2MP DNG file would be something like 13mb (am I right?), so presumably, I would need a reasonably fast card so that I'm not waiting around for the card to write. To make matters worse, it seems each company has their own way of expressing the speed of a card. </p>
  11. <p>This one was one of the first to come out as I bought it basically right when it hit shelves. It came even stiffer than it is now and I read from others that it takes time to break in the lens and plus I didn't want to send it for a lengthy service. I do feel it is still quite stiff and I cannot focus with one finger (causes "jumping"), especially when compared to my 35/2 'cron, which is smooth like butter. Thing is that I wouldn't want to spend the time and money to get it serviced and it come back exactly the same. </p>
  12. <p>As said, lightroom manages, while photoshop is a powerful processor. Lightroom helps you compare pictures, organize your likes and dislikes and stacks duplicates (you can also compare before and after PS shots). Fully integrated with PS so that if you if you export to PS from LR, then the file is already made on your behalf. No need to "save to..." Makes things a little bit easier</p>
  13. <p>Even great photographers have poor composition in many of their photographs. Of course, they only show their very best work. I personally think the biggest hurdle for most of us is to accept the fact that many pictures just won't show up right. But really, to be honest, after all this time I have been able to find at least a good handful that I could enlarge and show to people, which to me is good enough. However, having said that, I'm still shoot too cautiously. Wish I could just let go and shoot more. </p>
  14. <p>Hi guys, I have got a lens with a bit of a stiff focus ring. This makes focusing a slower since it requires more strength to turn, resulting in turning too much. It also has a spec of black pain or something on the middle of one of the elements. You guys have any remedies for the stiff ring? or does this needs to be serviced?</p>
  15. I have myself a Epson 4990.

    Beautiful scanner for the money. Maybe not as good as some dedicated MF scanners, but I

    am not using it for scanning and then printing anyways. I find it sorta weird to scan film and

    print digitally anyways...sorta defeats the purpose of using film in the first place.

  16. Thanks for your response.

     

    I will look for newer version one then. Would you know of any online stores i can search

    besides KEH? It seems that they have one on sale, but I'm the type to shop around, even if its

    for a few less bucks. These things really dont go for cheap, considering what they are...

     

    One more thing...do you know anything about the strap? i cant find any convential strap that

    can accomodate those strange tab things on the side that are supposed to hold the strap

  17. Hi everyone

     

    I have a 503CX with 90degree finder. Bought this used, but I find that I like waist level finder

    much more (much like the rollei TLRs). I see that there are different builds for hasselblad

    WLFs. The newer ones seem to have a round magnifier, while the older ones have a square

    magnifier. Is there a difference to quality, clarity, etc. between the newer and older ones?

    Thanks in advance

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