paul_baker1

I've taken rolls in and had them developed and gotten a CD of the images scanned at 72dpi. These come from running the film through the Fuji Frontier, I believe, and when they are printing they copy the scans onto a disk. At home, I don't think you can do this without a very sophisticated med. format film scanner.

Sorry to hear about the bad experience from Adorama. I would have recommended KEH instead but they are out of the F2AS right now. I think they had one listed before for less than $500.

Richard, to answer your question, Adorama has one for $489.

The GS-1 will only provide TTL flash with the dedicated Bronica flash, which is very hard to find. I bought a Sunpak 622 which provides a great deal of light and fast recycle time with NiCads.

I have looked through the archives but can't seem to find this

problem. I just got a 105mm f2.5 and have noticed that my D1 seems to

have a focus problem. The image is recorded in focus behind where I

have focussed in the viewfinder. Can something be adjusted to fix

this? I also noticed the same problem with my 200mm f4 attached, so

it's not the lens. I'd rather not have to send it in to Nikon either.

Thanks in advance.

I have the Sunpak 622 and use it on my F5 and D1. It does a good job of getting the exposure right on auto setting but I would like to get the TTL module for it as well. It is super powerful and I use NiCad cells in is for fast recycle.

Sounds like you need an 80-200 2.8. In fashion shows I've seen on TV the photographers appear to be using an 80-200.

I heartily second the 20mm f3.5.

And a 100% crop from a portion of it.

Here's another.

Taken today.

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/4069140

Hi Mark. I just got the 105mm f2.5 ais and so far it is great. KEH, bargain condition for $109. Also just picked up the 200mm f4 for $56. I have the 20mm f3.5 ais as well. So far all I need is the 50mm F1.8 and I'll pretty much be done. Except for when I get some real cash and get the 105/1.8, 20/2.8, and 35/1.4. Oh, and an 85/1.4. And then...

On the GS-1 there is a mini-plug jack, just get an old pair of headphones and cut the plug and a few inches of wire off and plug this into the camera. Cross the two wires and it will fire the shutter. You could connect two sets together for two cameras.

Try to keep it above 1/(focal length). So with a 50mm lens, you might try 1/60sec.

 

Paul B

I have the GS-1 and I use a handle mount flash set to auto. This works well except for reflective subjects.

 

Paul B.

Can you describe the problem a little more in detail? What do you mean by "won't advance"? Does the crank not turn, or will it turn with no effect on the frame number? Maybe the film is not loaded correctly. Also, is the back fairly new or at least in good shape?

I think it is fantastic. I don't have very many lenses yet but the AF is fast and good in low light (slightly better than my F5?, maybe) The only thing that really burns me up is that sometimes it will not fire. To me, I don't care if I have some setting wrong or if it's out of focus or what, when I press the shutter button it had better go off! I never had this problem with the F5, when I push it goes, good or bad picture not withstanding. Maybe its a glitch but I can't figure it out. I think it might be related to the battery charge, but I haven't been able to replicate it accurately.

 

pb

This charger has all the built-in functions necessary for preventing damage to the battery. It also has a conditioning cycle just like the MH-16. It even has a temperature sensor that is magnetic, which you place on the battery.

Just got a D1 myself, not too long ago. I purchased a Maha MH-C777Plus-II universal charger. Not only dos it do a spectacular job of charging the EN4 it'll charge any other NiCad, NiMH, Li/Li-ion batteries you've got. Got it on eBay.

 

Paul B.

A battery charger with a car adapter should do it. The Maha charger I just bought comes with a car adapter and it will charge anything from 1 to 14.4V. I would suggest that you have your solar panels charging some large sealed-lead acid batteries and then connect the car charger to this.

 

Paul B

It sounds like some cleverly placed pieces of Velcro would be better. You don't want to get sticky all over.

 

Paul B.

What does this have to do with Nikon?

Okay, I found another shot with the sun in the photo. This time it was handheld, maybe 1/160 at f11. No comments please about incorrect exposure. Still wondering if the key isn't just to put it at f22, something about the way the aperture blades prevent flare.

 

Paul B.

Sorry, I forgot to mention it is the 52mm thread mount version.

I have been having a wonderful time with this lens and have shot many rolls with great, sharp success. I am a little disappointed with its flare resistance capability. I have attached a picture taken toward the sun: Kodak Royal Gold 100, f11, 2 seconds, timer delay. Someone mentioned using it at f22, is this the only flare resistant aperture? No filter, no hood by the way, and notice that the sun isn't really in the picture.

 

Paul B.